This is the story of ronin hood, reviews on the traditional way to practice tameshigiri. How to start tameshigiri with the correct tools and safety protocole of practice for the beginner. As beginner in iaido/tameshigiri since two years and confirmed practitioner in karatedo (4th DAN) i will propose tutos for using the sword, physical condition and karate do. My budo's practice is aline on the tradition of karatedo and kobudo. Voici l'histoire de Ronin Hood, avis sur la pratique traditionnelle du tamashigiri. Comment débuter le tamashigiri avec le bon matériel et le bon protocole de sécurité pour le pratiquant débutant en Iaïdo. Quels sont les bons articles à acquérir et fabriquer pour une pratique sécure et authentique du tamashigiri ? Je vous propose sur cette chaine des conseils en tamashigiri/Iaïdo (niveau débutant), en condition physique (débutant/avancé) et en karaté de débutant à confirmé. Je pratique le tamashigiri/Iaïdo depuis 2 ans et le karaté depuis 12 ans (4e DAN).
Super vidéo ! Suite à plusieurs séances de coupe, comment traitez vous les rayures et micro rayures qui apparaissent sur la lame ? Et y a t-il une méthode différente lorsque qu'il s'agit d'un katana avec un polissage plus "traditionnel" comme celui du katana Z sey que vous avez testé.
Merci à vous, j’utilise le ronin dojo pro 19 pour la coupe sur bambou car en cas d’endommagement le risque /cout n’est pas trop élevé du coup les rayures sur la lame ne me gêne pas (pour le moment) sabre de pratique régulière. En revanche je n’utiliserais pas un shinogi zukuri comme le z sey avec de l’acier dur sur le tranchant car j’ai deja cassé avec 5-6 impacts de brisure sur le ookaze (shinogi zukuri - hinariku kareru) geometrie de shinogi zukuri allégée j’ai été très embetté car j’aime beaucoup le ookaze mais heureusement il ne coute pas trop cher comparé au a sey. Je ne recommande donc pas du tout l’acier dur type 1095 ou T10 avec le bambou. Si j’ai un sabre 1095 de test j’essairai de nouveau sur du bambou mais meme avec posture technique propre cela casse sur le ookaze et pas du tout sur le ronin dojo pro car acier moyen. Donc sur un sabre acier artisanal type kobuse tamahagane chinois je n’essairai ps la coupe sur bambou c’est quasiment sur que cela va casser (voir episodes sur le tamahagane que j’ai fait) les acier entre 0,6 et 0,8% de carbone seraient les seuls indiqués pour couper des objets durs. Pour le problème des rayures suite a l’aiguisage il faudrait soit des pierres a polir (plusieurs milliers d’euros pour tout le materiel made in japon) soit essayer de polir avec des pierre a aiguiser + pierres hazuyas soit tester du papier indus pour polir et retirer les rayures (avec differents niveaux de grain) sur des sabres solides mais ayant une certaine valeur mécanique ou de prix pour la pratique du battodo. Je vais bientot m’atteler au polissage car apres aiguisage de 5-6 sabres auxquels je tiens les rayures me gènent sur les models que j’affectionne esthétiquement.
Merci à vous, de mémoire oui le tameshigiri edition aurait une nagasa plus adaptée a votre taille a verifier sur le guide tozando taille tsuka nagasa sur le site tozando
specificaly I dont know who is john lee it is a chinese katana brand sold in europe by different resellers and I think this is a good brand but with time post 2020 many chinese brand evolved a lot in matter of quality
What a superbly done comprehensive review on not just this sword, but on the concept of ninjato in a historical context. A few things to say here: The unokubi geometry is really not ideal in any sword, as far as creating a superior cutting blade. It's more of a stylistic gimmick to create a lighter feeling blade, perhaps for trick cutting and the like. As far as actual shinobi using ninjato, it seems doubtful, especially considering these types of swords didn't even really exist during the era of shinobi. Also, I know English is not your first language, so I wanted to give you a correction about a word you used. You kept saying "scratch" and I think you meant "tear". Scratching the cardboard makes no sense in English and it was very confusing to hear that repeated, but I eventually realized you meant it was only cutting half way and tearing the rest, and you just were translating the wrong word. Hope that helps. Keep up the great content!
Thank you very much for your comment and appreciation, thanks for correction yes indeed « tear on the cardboard » is the correct word, difficult sometimes to be fluent in english with fast editing video and to find same specifical vocabulary than in french... It takes time dedication and efforts ... Yes indeed unokubi zukuri looks useless for battodo in my personal opinion at this present day. For ninjato I’m still surprised than a hollywood fantasy or 20th century japanese creation is still stuck on our mind even not historical and not proven I still have to read the bansenshukai and Hattori Hanzo book to finish these researches about ninjato
If you practice battodo and you practice often : tameshigiri on paper or omote you don’t need to sharpen ofter if your skills are correct if you cut bamboo and empty plastic bottle often like I do 1or 2hours every week or two weeks You need to re sharpen often your blades if you want to keep them very sharp or razor for cutting paper just after for exemple So I m finishing studies (second level) about sharpening now and with 30mn I have very sharp mid razor sharp with 2-3k 8k grit So of course many scratches on the blade... I m starting to get interest for polishing now for most beautiful blade I will talk when I ll have knowledge and result but in theory you need polishing stones and hasuya stones for scratches removed and revealing again the hamon if real hamon
Modern blade steel, Yasugi Specialty Steel (yasuki hagane), was developed from tamahagane. Around 1970, Hitachi Metals, a Japanese steel company, developed Yasugi Specialty Steel (yasuki hagane) by analyzing tatara ironmaking and tamahagane. Yasugi Steel has the same properties as katana, so it is hard, impact resistant, and not easily broken. Yasugi Specialty Steel is used for a variety of purposes, including blade steel, material for high-end kitchen knives (Kai Corporation, Zwilling), material for razors (Gillette, Schick, Wilkinson razor steel), material for automobile parts, automobile engine parts, and aircraft engine parts. Around the 6th century, the Yasugi region became a steel town because high-quality iron sand could be extracted in the area. Currently, Yasugi City produces Yasugi Specialty Steel at Hitachi Metals' factory and exports it all over the world. In the 12th century, katana craftsmen migrated to Seki City and began mass-producing katana. Even today, there are about 400 cutlery-related companies in Seki City.
@@RoninHood not a big marvel fan ,nor anima,a cartoon genre ,we would make ninja stars as we called them in school ,y drill a hole in centre no burrs ,still can be hurtful,
I do not know if it is safe product for breathing, desapear seems difficult with these type of powder it is more a self defense distraction against an opponent (in theory)
@@RoninHood like a I'm a tea pot ,went 2 karate then takwondo, don't know if the spelling right ,trained a knuckle which took me a few yrs and chi developed with it in time ,if y believe me ,the principles work in time ,but I'm older so I do not hit walls or other stuff now ,but it is retained ?!!,Yr skill is Impressive and broad through many forms 👌
It's great to see more attempts at more historical shinobi blades instead of the ninjato. I like many of the style and length choices but the small samegawa panels and white showing between the ito is not good for the price. I'd have to do the tsuka maki. I personally don't like the kissaki. IMO any ko katana could be dressed in shinobi style if your on a budget. Thanks for showing us this.
Thanks for your appreciation, I agree for shinobi historical sword, it is quiet difficult to find shinken close from that, and also agree O kissaki difficult to deal with. Yes for the price the ito should not be moving and maybe have ishigami. Best regards
scratches on the side of the blade are quite normal even with correct angle polishing the sides of the blade after sharpening would be great for visual aspect (I never experienced yet) If you are making some cracks or cheaps on your edge by sharpening on whetstones your are on the wrong way on your sharpening process
@@RoninHood thanks for the response, i have mothers metal polish which ive heard suggested and it does a good job of removing rust and making it shine but for scratches doesn't seem to do much.. i appreciate maybe you havent tried but do you have any suggestions for making it clean and scratchless? ive heard you can use a whetstone for that too
you welcome, I have heard the same that whetstones can be used for polishing, I didn't start polishing yet but I will probably soon and it will be on the youtube channel on CRAFT member (special members on ronin hood channel : SUPPORT members/ CRAFT members/ TAMESHIGIRI & SHURIKEN learning members) where I will put now all my high craft knowledge tutorials for japanese sword > sharpening razor sharp (full detailed very precise learning) > (video already shot) > how to change fittings with japanese ones > polishing and other craft I will maybe open an e-shop for craft member and ronin hood community with all sageo fittings that I have from Japan & bo shuriken made by very good black smith that I know You could try tool polishing paper (cheap prices) and see what it will be I will include polishing stone from japan on the shop but they are really expensive and you need the complete set for polishing properly your blade.
Bonjour, avec ces deux tutos : réparation full koiguchi ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N3UKi21vNe0.html et installation de coton dans la saya ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RfwcLnztPfI.html Couper en deux la saya et tout refaire nécessiterait un savoir faire très très avancé en menuiserie pour sécurité de la lame/pratiquant et du nukitsuke/nukiuchi + retirer/reposer corne de buffle koiguchi/kojiri/kurigata/shitodome c'est dans mes projets sur du long ++ terme mais très chronophage et onéreux en terme de matériaux made in japon etc le niveau de précision artisanal se devrait d'être irréprochable pour la pratique du battodo post intervention (CRAFT) Bien cdlmt
Ahora practico toyama ryu, sin este video y la práctica autodidacta no hubiera continuado con la práctica de tameshigiri y no hubiera tenido las ganas de seguir practicando battodo toyamaryu. Mira los demás vídeos y verás cómo ha evolucionado mi camino. No hay que juzgar demasiado duramente, todos los pequeños detalles cuentan en el camino hacia un budoka, soy 4º dan en karate y, sin embargo, todavía soy un principiante, cada práctica seria, incluso fuera de los caminos habituales, algún día puede crear un esgrimista de muy buen nivel. , hay muchas maneras de llegar a la cima de la montaña, hay que tener la mente abierta, en mi humilde opinión 16 años practicando budo 6-10 horas por semana
@@RoninHood it's good to grow my sword I've ordered is a shinobu zakuri ,blade width ,motohaba ,polishing saskikomi a++ ,length nagasa, what y think for cutting but I will try the paper cutting ,what Yr thoughts of the sword
You ordered a sword to which brand (Z sey) ? If you give me your height/weight and the web link of your sword I can take a look :) If you want a try to learn tameshigiri & cutting paper you have my course here : ronin-hood-online-dojo.teachable.com/p/how-to-cut-with-a-katana-tameshigiri-course/?preview=logged_out
Yes technicaly if the craft is good as craft steel katana (chinese tamahagane = precious craft smelting steel mono steel katana 0,6 or 0,8 or 1,05 cs or laminted steel from china) and craft fittings and weight distribution it is good for battodo/battojutsu as Z sey sword review that I have done on the channel
Bonjour, je viens de connaître votre chaîne. Je viens de rentrer un shinken YariNoHanzo pour la pratique du tameshigiri . Je pratique l’Iaido. Je n’ai aucune expérience en tameshigiri. Au sujet des omotes, si je comprend bien ils doivent être trempés dans l’eau pendant 36 à 48 h et toujours être humides avant les coupes? Par avance merci.
Bonjour, bienvenue a Ronin Hood (traduction de l’anglais : le quartier des ronins ou ronin a capuche) effectivement c’est bien cela 36-48h d’immersion dans l’eau pour les cibles type omote si vous parlez anglais (ou google translate) j’ai créé une formation de 28h sur teachable pour débutant-confirmé pour le tameshigiri permettant : - d’apprendre tous les mouvements de coupes de base a deux mains kesa gyaku kesa et suihei - condition et preparation physique indispensable pour gérer un sabre (lourd : 900-1100g) pendant 2h-3h sans se fatiguer - evaluation technique : se préparer a la coupe 1/ sur papier = ha suji + angle + controle 2/ bouteille en plastique vide = angle et ha suji et controle et vitesse puis 3/ omote = ha suji + angle + vitesse + controle de lame + transfert de masse pour evaluer ses capacités et technique sans deterioirer inutilement la lame (papier ne deteriore pas la lame, le plastique et omote oui et tres rapidement si muvaise coupe ensuite re aiguisage) - guide complet avec toutes les marques et articles necessaires pour la pratique selon votre budget - tous les exercices de base avec iaito (securité) pour preparer les postures et biomecanique detaillée d’une coupe : nukitsuke > kamae > kesa > kamae > chiburi > noto - coupes traditionnelles pour debutants (inzuma, gyaku inazuma etc) et combos techniques (kesa/gyaku kesa/suihei differentes combinaisons) des coupes de base sur omote avec protocole de securité - toutes les tenues de garde (tsuka) permettant de gérer tous les types de marques/équilibrages de lame ronin-hood-online-dojo.teachable.com/?preview=logged_out Selon votre niveau de iaido et style il faudra surement adapter postures selon votre morphologie et équilibrage shinken je recommande un dojo de battodo mais difficile a trouver en Europe ou en France le style le plus repandu pour le battodo en europe (espagne) japon et usa est le toyamaryu c’est le style que je pratique, le katori shinto ryu est egalement tres bien avec le nakamura ryu et tenshin ryu hyoho Si vous n’avez pas de dojo avec instructeur de battodo cette methode peut vous aider a forger les bases a partir de votre niveau martial (nombre d’années en iaido ou karate ou autre) La vigilance avec un shinken est de mise, pas le droit a l’erreur, le protocole de securité important ainsi que prepa physique pour ne pas se blesser est de 2-4h par semaine pour commencer a avoir les bons automatismes en battodo-battojutsu pour information chaque séance de coupe que j’ai réalisé depuis 5 ans avait en moyenne 6h-8h de prépa hebdo minimum de pratique au iaito/prepa physique/repetition des mouvements de bases au shinken Bien cdlmt
@@RoninHood merci pour votre réponse. Je suis 1 dan Iaido. Mon club est très loin de mon domicile (pas de club dans mon département ) aussi je m'entraîne chez moi seul. Je participe à des stages tous les deux mois pour progresser . Merci.
merci pour votre message, effectivement ce n’est pas évident, mais avec persévérance et motivation tout est possible, bon courage dans votre pratique, sincèrement budo RH
I get that it was for the video, but remember to keep unused tools away from your workpiece. But maybe not just for the video... PROPER WORK HOLDING. Something like a vise with thick felt padding /clean carpet pad.
Thank you for the advices, it is difficult to be focused on making the video and the craft in the same time (and using precious time with efficency), capturing with video downgrade focusness sometimes however it is important to keep attention on details and respect tools with proper safety use, I agree
Excellent review. I have the Z-sey Tuoyuan Katana MKIII. Excellent mat cutter. It actually cuts as good as a Motohara LMC. I had also bought the LD katana, advertised as a mat cutter. Very sad mat cutter. I sold it.
Nihonto. The most overrated sword in galaxy.😂 Polish winged hussars saber is following it 😂😂 And I am from Poland. Believe me there are guys in Poland who are obssesed with winged hussars sabers 😅😅😂😂
I just bought three stones, 300/1500, 4000/8000 and 10000/12000. 👍💪 My T10 Katana is pretty sharp, but I want it razor sharp. Thinking about beginning with the 4000 stone, what do you think? Or should I start with the 8000?
I recently had to resharp 2 katanas : sea wave and musashi prac v2 I used 2000/6000 grit the result was amazing in 15 mn (without disassembling fittings) with the vertical way of sharpening as the tutorial so I will make a second video asap about HOW TO SHARPEN YOUR SWORD IN 15 mn with news technical details for your sword you can start with 1500 or 4000 if no issues on the blade (I do not recommend any more to save a chip or crack removing so much materials with 400 grit because it change weight balance as with musashi prac YNH on the tutorial) and your muscle memory/angle precision/general motion with your two hands will do the job then 8000 and 12000 and it should work pretty good
@@RoninHood Thank you for the answer. There's nothing wrong with the blade, I just want to make it razorsharp. I would love a new video on the vertical sharpening method. I'm getting my stones next week, so a new vid before that would be fkn great 🙏
I understand, good luck with your shaprening process, I will be able to make new sharpening video sadly not before 2-3 months (i will try to include 12000 20000 grit) because it takes times to shot videos and edit with proper adventure enjoying every detail Good luck
I just shot today the first shot of "sharpening whetstones in 15 mn" we are on this stuff together... 3 times on each side then you can wet again the whetstone, same pressure, same motion, same muscle memory, same 15° angle difficult with 3000 & 8000 grit today on my WHITE custom from artkatana to go higher than very sharp close than razor sharp in 15-30 mn but doable most of the time (I re sharpen 3 swords this month) I do better on the 15-30 first mn then I go wrong for 30 mn (muscle memory/focusness) Precision and quality (not quantity of passes) : 3 on the right edge side then on the 3 times on the other side very difficult to keep the same quality motion on these 6 passes (3+3) it depends on muscle memory (half of the thumb/full two hands motion/pressure/keeping well parallel to the stone & angle not 7,5° or 30° but 15° Good luck
