@@BeefSupremeAviation that sounds like a plan.

@@bartdereu9267 great for a road sim. It's not too bad with a flight sim. It has pitch, roll, sway, yaw and surge so certainly beats a static flight experience.

@@bartdereu9267 its had a few to many scotches like its owner. Nah, its solid as a rock bra.

@@mattiasrask1575 hello. I cannot say for certain if they will be ok with close to 300kg. You would certainly require a balanced setup, so weight was evenly placed across the platform. Keep in mind these motors are intended for wipers. Plus I use timber plates to mount my motors for ground isolation purposes. It too would need to handle the loads. And your motor controllers would need to be high amp to handle the regen current with a heavy platform.

@@Doctoradhd1 hi ok thanks, question how much does your rig weigh and how much do you think the difference would have been in weight with alminum fram?

@@mattiasrask1575 my top frame with seat, pedals, monitor, steering wheel, joystick, throttle, gear shifter and me weighs approx 165kg. Aluminum frame would be a few kg's lighter for sure. But very difficult to weld alloy so you would need a slot connection system frame. Aluminium is also more expensive to purchase.

​@@Doctoradhd1I will not use a monitor but aim for 2k mixed reality, although I will have lots of buttons and panels, I own a creality k1 3d printer so can print a jont in nylon and a screw it, I have time when I have finished it when I fill 50 years old and have 4 years on me. ever since i was little and watch topgun i dreamed of becoming a fighter pilot so now i'm going to have the next best thing, at least a budget one for a nursing assistant in elderly care can afford

@@mattiasrask1575 LOL! It's a great project to keep the brain active. Important for us old people.

So am I!

@stratman71 hey Stratman. Great to hear about your progress. Don't worry too much about your welds. Hopefully you are at least getting some decent penetration from them which is important. As far as the springs go, I decided after testing with 6 and then 4, for me and my weight, 4 springs gave a little more movement. Keeping in mind those clutch springs are high compression springs and it takes a lot of weight to compress them. If you make your design to incorporate 6, then you can always remove a couple if required. You can even experiment with different spring rates if you like. You could try different springs i.e, lighter or stiffer. Sky's the limit.

Hey Jono. You can't find it, because I have not yet produced the video for this! I will try to get to this soon. Are you up to this step?

@@Doctoradhd1 ok was after.info on how to have the 2 arduinos set up 1 for ibt and 1 for 2x32 sabretooth.

Can't give you a definitive answer as I've never used it, so therefore unsure of it's threshold compared to mild carbon steel used in my design. On the whole, I'm sure it could be used at a greater cost dollar wise, but not sure what sizes would be needed.

@@Doctoradhd1 Thank you for responding. I looked through the parts you have listed in the description, but im not seeing where you purchased the U-Joint from. Can you share some info on that please?

@@kevrev7 Hi Kev. The Uni joint I used is from a tractor PTO shaft that was damaged, so it was not a purchase. This is not important. What is important is that you choose a UNI joint from a rear drive car, Ute or truck tail shaft application (or tractor PTO shaft if you can find one) The important thing is the overall height you cut the shaft at, as this will set your centre of gravity. You don't need it too long. Info for my spec (finishing height) can be found here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hBirp3GmCRI.html (Measurement is found at 27:25) Basically, however high your UNI finishes at, will need to be matched by your front motor lever rods that go from motors to top frame. At the end of the day, you want the top frame to be level between the UNI finishing height and the front motor push/pull rods.

Thanks for the advice.

@@Doctoradhd1 Great, thanks for the response. I ended up just buying the parts and assembling it ru-vid.comVsP_kK1GYr4?si=XGI_FKq97YZ94Iuo

Hello Hoshizume. I do not have the Modact Mod so not 100% sure what is going wrong for you. Does the quick missions folder have any data inside it? Maybe the folder is empty?

@@Doctoradhd1 no the folder is here and he full (i'm french sorry for potientially mistake)

@hoshizume_8855 double check all the required DLC needed for the Mod to work. IL2 can be a bit tedious with mods, because of all the needed steps and previous DLC that may be required for a mod to function.

Gracias. I use 12vlt DC 180 watt truck wiper motors. Please see the links in the description for the motor types.

Hey mate. No idea why this has happened to you. You must follow the install steps, step by step. Try reinstalling the mod again.

I have found that the sound source has changed. It switched to my VIZIO 40" tv for sound and the volume was down on the tv.

@@StuartMatthews-dz1zs sorry to hear about the dramas with the mod and sound issues. I guess because I had a fresh install with no other prior mods, I did'nt experience any conflicts.

@@Doctoradhd1 Haha I am done with that for a minute. Dr if you want a laugh, look up cellular concrete. You can build these amazing foam concrete structrues. And foam is like, super cheap. A genius like you could probably make some pretty good foam lol.

@unique11124 a new super lite foam motion simulator LOL!

@@Doctoradhd1 It is God's 3D printer. Don't look at that shit Doc or your simulator will have a coat of dust.

Glad it helped!

Been racing on it all day. Once you make a few basic config file and PLR file tweaks along with a few tweaks in your Nvidia contol panel specifically for rfactor, (depending on the track you are on as some mods are pretty bad with textures) it can look pretty awesome for its age. GTR-2 = even better. Yell out if you want any tips.

So true! Its way too addictive!

@@Doctoradhd1 I can only imagine because I have a quest 3 and I like flight Sims just as much as racing Sims and I know that I would be totally immersed . I've seen a lot of simulators on RU-vid, but I have yet to see one that initiate inertia the way yours do. I truly think it's a masterpiece.

@@aquosy7 Very kind words and I appreciate the kudos. Cheers.

Hey Swamp Man. Ok. Things like this can happen from time to time. Let's get you "back on the rails" ha ha. I have questions for you before you modify the carriage too much. Let's do this via my new discord rather than in messages on here. discord.gg/VjNY8yde

The metal Tek's work great. Like any fastener, they will only be as good as their installation. As long as the thread both on the screw and in the frame are not compromised, they'll do their thing forever. Important not to over cook them when driving them in. I experience no movement whatsoever using them on any of the components they hold. I guess after many years of use, the vice clamp may fail and the same could be said about any component. The vice clamp is an excellent mod for the shift/throttle mount. It is rock solid when locked. I simply sanded/roughed the vice clamp pad that engages to the top frame when locked and added a dab of hot glue for a pad. As I said, works great and has zero movement. I've used vice clamps for over 30 yrs and they rarely wear out unless abused, so expecting a long service life from that setup. Keep in mind their tension (locking force) is adjustable. They can loosen with vibration when unlocked and if they do, you simply retighten the tension mechanism.

Cheers. Quite a fun track to drive if you can get past the dated graphics. The road mesh feels pretty convincing. rfactor's physics are ok.

@Doctoradhd1 I was particularly impressed with the sensitive and accurate way you dealt with the harsh treatment of a whole Aboriginal community to provide a leisure facility for white Australians. 1959 was the year of my birth, and it's sobering to hear of such decisions. I guess it was of its time.

@@davidporeilly1 Bloody white Australia policy. Hard to believe that was a thing, but it was. I grew up in rural NSW in the central west. Small town and a lot of my mates were indigenous. I never saw them as any different to myself for a second. Great mates and wasn't until I'd grown up, I realised how hard they had it.

Greetings Philippe. Thanks for the kudos. My levers are 110mm x 30mm x 10mm thick. You don't need that kind of thickness, but it's what I had surplus, so I used it. I wouldn't recommend anything less than 6mm in thickness. Mine are cut at 110mm in length. I measured in 20mm each end and marked the centre of the 30mm width @20mm in. My motor shafts required a 16mm hole. So one end is drilled at 16mm for the shaft and the other end is drilled at 12mm to take a 12mm bolt through the tie-rod ends. So what ever your motor shaft diameter is, that's the size your hole will need to be :)

Thank you very much Doctor for all the info it is extremely appreciated and I would never have started this project without your channel! ​@@Doctoradhd1

@@philippe9778 That's awesome. Glad it's inspired you to build. You won't regret it.

I thought that way as well. Was doing things this way with a 100 amp PSU, but even large PSU's just can't deliver the current a big 720 CCA 75AH battery can. Even 24volt motors still draw big amps under load. It's the AMPS, not wattage or voltage that the PSU's can't keep up with. Also with a sabretooth 2 x 32 or the 60's they need a power soak on regen energy that happens frequently with a motion sim. The battery then protects the PSU's. My PSU's are now just glorified battery chargers. It's night and day between constant PSU's protection mode cut out's (what I'd get before putting a battery in parallel) vs PSU's alone. They just don't cut it. As I said, for a while early on after I'd first built the 3DOF version (now the 4DOF) I was using PSU's only. But the results were frequent PSU shut down's, if the sim went crazy after a crash in a racing sim, or even after lots of rolls in flight sims. Since the battery went in the loop, all that bullshit is history. I can now ramp my game manager intensity all the way up to 100 if I want, with no cut outs. Had to keep it at 70 max before.

@@Doctoradhd1 oh that’s very nice I actually didn’t notice you had a psu charging your battery, so your battery is basically just acting as a giant capacitor? How often would you need to change it and how does the power supply work, does it just keep on charging it 24/7 with no degradation, even if you for example turn it off and then as you said ramp the intensity all the way to 100 would it drain the battery faster than it’s charging? I’m sure sometimes yes since it’s drawing much more power than the psu could’ve supplied but would you ever run out of battery and how would you know it’s out if you don’t have a bms on it since it’s a car battery? Also I wonder if there’s a way to adapt it to work with 24v motors? I know using a 24v battery would be the way but would it make much of a difference? As in motor strength and response speed, was thinking when I do end up making this I’ll have an ultra wide monitor hooked up but then I’m not sure how the vesa mount will handle all the shaking and fast movements from the simulator, what do you think? I was going to go with windshield wiper motors but I DaveMax said that bigger motors are better especially when the frame is heavy and it’ll also be able to provide more power fast, tho the battery part I’m still confused about it. If you do end up losing power suddenly would the motors just give up and go to the position of least resistance (for example if it was pushing the frame up would it just fall back down) or would it just lock into place? I was wondering because of your previously mentioned point if it draws too much power and pops a breaker or goes into protection mode, would it just all fall back down instantly or would it slowly go down, or maybe just holds its place? I know you can force the motor to move with difficulty so I assume it will fall but fast or slow I’m not sure, is it something that would require some sort of dampeners at the bottom to protect it from smashing itself, I assume not but it’s never been mentioned as far as I remember

​@@YHK_YT Kind of I guess. The PSU's are also providing amps, but mainly to recharge the battery. The battery also soaks up big amps spikes that get sent back to the sabretooth via regen energy when the motors reverse polarity. without the battery in the loop, the PSU's (when amps are coming back) would cop amp spikes and their life shortened. The sabre tooth is ok to get regen energy as it's designed for that. The IBT-2's don't cope with lot's of regen. They get hot and you can cook them. Even when double heat sinked and thermal pasted like mine are. What I have noticed is both of my horizontal motors (traction loss and surge motors) don't return as much regen, as they are working of horizontal axis's which are connected to rollerised mechanisms. They don't draw anything like the same amps as the front motors that are doing all the lifting of the top frame, person and peripherals. So I use IBT-2's on those two motors and they run off 30 amp psu's (one for each motor) only. No battery in their loop. They never cut out or get hot. Yes the battery floats at a constant 13.6 volts. My PSU's are adjustable and they are adjusted to provide 13.6 volts to the battery which keeps it at that level. I've tested this several times with a buddy on the sim using a multi meter. The voltage does fluctuate as you'd expect but it never goes below 13 volt. I did experiment using a stand alone battery charger connected to the battery before I bought and connected PSU's. It also worked ok, but I had to have it on the quick charge setting to keep up with the battery use. The charger would get very hot after a while. It struggled to keep up. I have heard of peeps using truck battery chargers. Not sure how they differ from a car bat charger, but they must output more power and stay cooler. I can't really comment on 24vlt vs 12vlt, as I've never used 24vlt motors. 24vlt requires smaller gauge wiring to carry current, but that's about all I can tell you. Monitor. My monitor has a custom mount I made and yes you are right. It gets the shit shaken out of it. Monitor selection must have a top mount and a bottom mount setup for bracing. It needs to have a way to bolt a brace to the top and the bottom, other wise it ain't gonna last very long. I'll take a quick video of my monitor setup, as I haven't talked about that on the channel yet. though this will be a case by case basis depending on what peeps are using. But it may help get the creative juices flowing for others so I'll show my setup. Dmax has a point, but it's not just volts. It's torque, back drive, RPM etc. In saying that, I'd agree with Dave that you need at least 180watt and above to save needless issues with under powered motors. Lets 'just say "you can't polish a turd" Plus you should be looking for metal worm drive motors or metal gear box motors. Stay away from plastic. It just won't cope. Balance is your friend. Your rig needs to be balanced so the weight is off the motors as much as possible. There's an argument that a well balance rig should not require huge powerful motors. If your motors are decent (don't back drive easily) and your rig is balanced, you should never have the Forsters flop. Even when I experienced power cut out's, the rig would never just drop. The motors have enough back drive resistance to prevent that. And my rig is well balanced. I do have a dampener (spring) buffer at the bottom of my motor lever arc. But they never go there anymore . I still have them in place for the "crazy times" you have sometimes when you crash in a race at high speeds for example and the rig goes mental. it will exceed through inertia it's software limitations and as a result, can stress other parts of the rig. So these mechanically restrict the levers over exceeding their range in that scenario. I'll show this as well at some stage in the tutorials. Just waiting for everyone to catch up with what's already published. Still gotta go through the electronics setup etc.

@@Doctoradhd1 thank you so much for this reply it means a lot and you’ve clarified so much, I know both you and DMax have made videos about wiring things up but this part always felt like was cut short or skipped/glossed over but now that you clarified it it’s so much easier to understand, the monitor I’ll be getting as I mentioned before is an ultra wide and has a vesa 100x100 in the middle of it, I already doubt a normal 16:9 27 inch monitor would last there so having an even wider monitor is a death sentence, I was thinking maybe I’ll get the dimensions and have a custom bracket that goes around and wrap it so it’s held in place with cutouts for where you have buttons and inputs. As for the balance I haven’t seen any builds so dar with for example sliders for adjustment, like how car seats are on rails, or some sim rigs let you move how far the steering wheel and pedals are, I can balance it based on my position but then if for example a friend or my brother wants to try it out it will be way off for them since we aren’t the same dimensions, how do you take that into account? I guess you can add a few extra holes to move things around but that will get annoying fast as you’d have to disassemble and assemble the rig each time just to move the wheel or pedals or seat, and each time you do that you change the center point for the rig which makes it even more off balance + the weight of the person using it drastically changes how hard the motor has to work but I don’t think that’s a problem, 12v motors seem to be the best option so far thanks to your explanation tho I’d like to try 24v later on with one of the degrees, maybe the traction loss, that way I can see how much of a difference in strength and response time it’ll be. Regarding your motor controllers, you use 2 IBT-2’s and 2 sabertooths? How does that work, does it work with the same software that would run on the IBT-2? I’m not entirely familiar with sabertooth so I’m not sure, I was wondering also if it’s better to have the motors lifting the frame, person, and peripherals lift from the back of the top frame since then they’d be directly lifting the chair and that would give you more motion since it’s not moving your legs up and down but moving you more than your legs, the U joint is still in the center but you have them connected to you so you feel more movement, or does it not matter/will you just feel the same?

@@YHK_YT The wiring part gets a little skipped over, because once you show one example of how to solder something and where it connects to, it's just rinse and repeat. It's a matter of methodically going through the circuit diagram you use, wire by wire. But I'll show some detail and tips for a good result in the coming weeks. 24vlt vs 12 vlt: Strength and response time: A very important consideration here (above the motor selection in some ways) are the motor controllers and arduino controlling them. This is where the motor gets it's commands. I have found a night and day difference between the sabretooth and the IBT-2's. This gets expanded with a 4DOF because two Arduino's are used with 4 motors. Two motors for each Ard. The typical 3DOF uses one Ard for 3 motor controllers. the 4DOF setup frees up data flow because the Ard's only need to manage two controllers each. Couple that with the sabretooths quicker response time over IBT-2's and it makes a noticeable difference especially on the front motors (lifting motors) when it comes to road surface data. Especially heave. All the little bumps in the road (depending on how well built the road mesh is) come through so much more clearer with the sabretooth. But it's night and day in price between a sabretooth and an IBT-2. 12 bucks for an IBT-2 and 250 bucks for a sabretooth, so you'd want a better result wouldn't you! There is a packet serial code needed to run the sabretooth and the IBT -2's run off the rufus dufus code for 2DOF or 3DOF. They have separate code uploads in each Arduino. One code for the sabretooth Ard and one for the IBT-2 Ard. Plus there are some changes needed for the sabretooth in it's own software program. I'll go through this later, but just search sabretooth packet serial code for a 3DOF and the info is all there by the guru's on X simulator where I got the info to begin with. Can't comment on rear mount motors. Never had a motion sim setup like that. I just wanted to mimic the suspension in a car and how most driving is in a forward direction, so info into the car body always comes from the front first. That was my logic. It seems to work very well. My rig is totally adjustable. Everything from the seat, pedals, steering wheel frame and uni joint to top frame are adjustable. All done that way for the very reasons you've mentioned.

Hey SM. Awesome job guys. It's a bit of a mission the top frame connection and it's hard to explain it in the video, but sounds like you guys are all over this. Keep at it and you'll soon be racing! By the way, I haven't forgotten about the electronics part of the tutorial series. Just figured everyone was a ways off starting to hook wires up, so when you are getting close, yell out and I'll get some stuff on the electronics wiring and setup shot and posted.

Yes! We need a special Sergio version for Assetto Corsa or rfactor 2! I can help get the info, if you want to build it. I can go there and walk around the track and collect lots of photo's, data etc.

Sweet! We actually really enjoyed the event. The cold does not bother long time inhabitants of the Berra.

An absolute pleasure Phil. Yes! I grabbed the 60's Oulton version. Another gold nugget in rFactor 2 historic track content. I mention in the video your history with motor sport pertaining around Oulton Park and Aintree. All that experience shines through in your tracks road surfaces. Please keep them coming!

@johnbrown3027 I'll look into a discord platform. I have been considering this for a while. Leave it with me. I'll let you know when I've got one sorted.

Thank you

@@johnbrown3027 just got this setup. You can drop me a line here. discord.gg/VjNY8yde

@@Doctoradhd1 thank you, I have connected with your discord

Hey Stratman, thanks so much for the support, appreciate that. Good news on your electronics order. I think those crab pot motors will be good. Seen a few people like DMax using those to great effect. Pretty sure they have a through shaft type of arrangement, so you'll be able to connect your potentiometer on the back side of the shaft if you desire. You may have to be a little creative setting them up with levers as I think in the end, you'll still need to weld them. I won't be covering the top frame build in the 4DOF series. Top frame vids for the 3DOF as you've mentioned, just gets a shorter footprint. Top frame vids are in my playlist. Build it at 1540mm in length instead of 2000mm. Other wise it's all the same apart from a slight modification to the very front front timber decking bracket. I added a cross piece to the original bracket for extra fastening material and strength for the timber bracket. I'll shoot a video soon to show what I did with that. very simple addition. Just double check the steering wheel frame build, as I think I ended up modifying that to be a little taller. Cross reference that part of the build with my video on cut lengths in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3DvE3_dE_ik.html Also, the seat spring heave modification shown for the 3DOF is now placed on a movable setup, so the seat can be moved forwards and backwards. I'll also cover that in a new tutorial. Seat frame from the 3DOF is still the same just some added angle that the studs that take the springs get welded to. The seat sits on those now instead of being hard welded to the top frame. No doubts Santana is in there somewhere, along with so many other great axe men I've listened to over the years. My favourites are - Satch, Vinnie Moore, Paul Gilbert, Mark Knopfler, Stevie Ray, Lukather and the list goes on.

@stratman71 I love a good Strat! Glad you found the page. Here's a video with a list of needed materials for the build, along with cut lengths if you are going to get your metal shop to cut the stuff for you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3DvE3_dE_ik.html But I do teach folks how to cut their own stuff straight with a hand angle grinder if you'd prefer to save some coin. You'll need a grinder regardless for a lot of the build. On that, I can tell you already that you'll need to spend around 2.5 to 3k (AUD, so less for you guys) to get this build completed. But that includes everything (not the racing gear like pedals and wheel etc) including a welder, grinder, and materials for those items along with motors, electronics, etc. That includes using high end electronic components like the sabretooth 2 x 32 motor controller for the vertical motors. A big ticket item, but well worth the money over the cheaper IBT-2's, which are still used on the less taxed horizontal motors. My stuff is in metric, but I've included a metric to inches converter link in the videos for my US friends that use inches. There are a few of you guys from across the pond building this, so it can be done with materials from the US. And as each part of the build is covered in the tutorials, I do go through the measurements for that particular segment of the build.

@jamesleicher anything's possible James. For that kind of weight and mass (sounds like a large cockpit) maybe some cut down coil-overs (cut down so the height of your rig doesn't end up too high) instead of clutch springs like I have used in my seat spring mod. You'd just need a way to fix them to the ground and to your rig. You could weld a decent size plate to one end of the spring for sitting on the floor for example. Maybe weld plate to both ends of the spring. Before you weld one of the plates, drill it so you could use bolts to fasten it to your rig's underside. There's an idea.

@Doctoradhd1 it sounds like plan lol.probbly won't happen ut great to dream. I got bass but kickers in my seat just need that side way and bit up down motion.low rider airbags lol

@tallymudasia5163 Greetings. No need to change anything as far as hardware would go for what you are wanting in a motion sim like my design. It simply means you would have access to old school (historic) car dynamics if you ever want to try that. My design will work with both types of cars with some simple tweaks to sim tools settings (software). You could even lock out the traction loss all together in the software if you wanted to. But, F1 cars experience TL as well under certain circumstances, so you'd just dial it down when using computer controlled cars.

@Shiny-Robot Hi mate. You mean set up under the seat like my spring heave mod? It's a great idea and really does amplify heave without having a dedicated heave motor. I'm around the 112kg's at present and I'm using x 4 (used to be 6) high compression clutch springs under my seat frame (I'll be doing another tutorial on this setup soon, as it's changed a little from my 3DOF setup for the new 4DOF rig) You'll need a little trial and error I think, but I have found 4 HC clutch springs are sufficient for my weight and the weight of the seat frame to give me a nice boost in heave without it being over the top. You don't want too much travel or you'll just move around too much under roll and pitch conditions.

Hi Doctor I discovered your channel yesterday and I just want to say thanks. Your tutorial videos are so well done and wasy to understand. I have been battling to make a basic 2dof seatmover and hopefully now I will be able to finish it with your guidance Thanks again

@@johnbrown3027 Great news! Hope my channel can help get your project finished. Shout out if you need anything.

Hi Matt. Thumbs up 👍on the decision to build a motion sim. Yes, those yaw ball turrent platforms are pretty cool. Quite compact and look to be easy to move around. I did contemplate a similar design early on, but not with belt drives. What stopped me forging this path was I was worried you would miss out on the cool inertia created by the traditional traction loss pivot design. Having actual mass is important for this (along with a correctly funtioning TL system plus software tweaks) As a classic muscle car owner, I appreciate this and modelled my setup around that experience. This and the actual sim chassis twist felt in my design, really gets those sensations pretty damn close. The down side of my design is it does have a reasonable footprint, so space is required to house it. Get building and I'm here to help.

Thank you Sergio for sharing your journey as a track creator and for your contribution of quality content for everyone to enjoy!

Swamp man! Great to hear from you mate. Great stuff. Keep going. It's a real achievement to get this thing built. Not everyone has the fortitude to get one of these monsters of chaos built. A fat time for you guys is just around the corner, so keep going with it. Thanks for the update.

Hi Nik. Can you see Vjoy in control panel under devices and printers? You should see it there. If it's not there, than it hasn't installed correctly for some reason. If it's there, but won't allow you to select an axis, make sure you have ticked the enable Vjoy box.

😁

@DavidClark081 yes I do.

@Doctoradhd1 Is there a way they can be available to us to help us follow along the videos

@@DavidClark081 Hi Dave. My plans are basic scribbles on a small white board. Not really suitable for following I'm sorry. If you need to, you can connect on my Xsimulator.net profile. Look under the DIY motion simulator projects build thread on the forum and youll find my build thread. I go by Kevinski.

@@Doctoradhd1 I shall go have more of a look around at it, on the forum, and I might start to draw it out so I have it on hand with the measurements from your materials list. I really like the design of yours, it's not over the top, it's not complicated and it appears to function really well. How does that battery maintain charge over long periods

@@DavidClark081 yes a simple design from a simple mind LOL. It is in essence pretty simple. The trick is, this design could have been built from a range of different metal sizes and it would still work without issues. Its made using a lot of what i had lying around the workshop. Cut offs, scrap, etc. In saying that, most of the design in the new surge axis is pre meditated and specific materials to make that work.

@motionbasti Welcome to the channel. I've had this question a few times. I have tried both axis for the surge. A number of things impact surge direction and which one works best for a sim. Motor speed and travel distance are key factors to which way the surge will emulate real gravity like felt in a vehicle. My setup has a short travel axis and a reasonably fast motor RPM. Because the travel distance is 220mm total, it works better for the braking to actually surge you forwards and the acceleration to push you backwards. If I had a little more travel distance, I would swap the axis. It also comes down to how the forces feel to the individual in my opinion. All these emulations are no where near close to actual gravity forces felt in a vehicle. We are just trying to trick the brain. Thanks for the feedback!

@@Doctoradhd1thanks for your opinion. 🙂

@@motionbasti No problems. Hey I checked out your Actuator motion sim. Very cool! I can see why you like the surge the opposite to my setup.

@@Doctoradhd1 thanks man. sold that rig. next one will come soon. :D

Awesome! Glad it helped.

Awesome outcome mate. Glad it helped!