I'm Jami-finish carpenter and general contractor with a passion for carpentry and construction. I operate primarily from Boston to Cape Cod.
I grew up with a love for building and creating. I'm very fortunate to have been able to turn my passion into a career that lets me have a lot of creative freedom.
Whether I'm working on a major construction project, intricate woodwork, or practical DIY tips, I will only share information that I wholeheartedly stand behind.
This channel is all about down-to-earth construction wisdom that's as real as it gets.
This is one of the best investments I've ever made. This adds invaluable versatility to my hammer drill. Side note- the reason I mention torque is because the 1/4" hex adapter and 3/8 socket adapter are very rarely used. These SDS drills really don't have much power beyond hammer drilling. They won't sink or back out a common concrete screw. They do their job nonetheless.
@@SJ.Sharkstero Had someone else mention that years ago when this was posted. There is no 'wrong' side. If anything kicks out I'd very much prefer to have the heavy metal bottle jack at ground level. This method also allows me to screw my strong back directly to the joist. So again, if anything kicks out, the bottle jack just tips over and the strong back is left hanging. Nothing goes flying, especially not a 15-20 lb bottle jack. I learned from a master carpenter and this was his preferred method. You're obviously welcome to have your preferred method as well. Neither are wrong.
as an aside, stabilas still worth it? Been eyeing a set but saw a perkins bros video about them not honoring warranties anymore. Worth the $ over empires?
@@andy6131 I'm not really sure. I have all stabilas with 2 bubbles off total. I haven't tried to warranty them. I'm just old school when it comes to Stabila as a brand. I like them. They've always kind of been a symbol of quality. I've had at least a dozen other low to mid grade levels go off over the years. Maybe I'll try to warranty them and see how it goes. I wouldn't hesitate to get the budget friendly stabilas. Sometimes the lightweight ones are nicer to work with. I'm a big fan of the 24" and 48" measuring sticks.
@@elimccormick813 No problem sir. If you've never done one then have realistic expectations going into it. Take your time. If you need to go back another day to trim the interior and exterior then don't feel weird about it. I had few 1.5 day sliders early in my career. Always makes sense to do it right the first time even if it takes a little longer than you'd like.
@@paulrobinson5833 You can flex sash stop enough. It has a lot more room for a minor scribe if necessary as well. I know my trade, that's why I know it's all subjective. Shoe mould should never be considered a finish product. It's solely an absolute last resort only used when there's no other option. I've used it maybe 5 times in 15 years. It's avoidable 99.9% of the time by quality carpenters.
Just a thought you could also have the screew itself make the measurement. Have some type of movable scale that adjust when the screw is turned. Pretty nice
@@dansmith2372 FastCap "how far off" is where I got the idea. Their version has what you're talking about. I thought about trying to weld the combo square to a nut that moved up and down with the screw but I took the lazy way. It's still pretty slick nonetheless.
This is a concept that I stole from FastCap. I noticed some negative reviews so I figured I'd give it a whirl. It obviously needs some refinement but I'm pretty happy with a 45 minute first pass. My preference is to make two of these, both ambidextrous, to cater to a variety of applications, including bellies in a floor or wall. It works on all contractor grade Stabila levels. It doesn't work on extendable levels but, hold on. If I tap the ends of extendos, this modified combo square can be used on all of them. If you scoff at this or don't see a use, you don't work on old houses and can scroll on. This is a very useful modification. Areas for improvement- many, to be continued. Ideas and recommendations heavily welcomed.
I didn't charge for this because I should've noticed it on the walk through but they're certainly not bottom feeders. They never question my pricing. Good clients and friends. 3 hour fix. No biggy.
You don't need to have a biscuit joiner and PVC biscuits for your alignment in the race against glue. I have another video showing how to use a 1/4" forstner bit and pluggable screws as basically an exterior dowel. The longer I do this the more I think I prefer the alternating method for long term reliability.
Awww, you shoulda anticipated that!!! Just playing, awesome to see someone sharing their knowledge as they reason thru everyday problems!! Keep up the good work!
@@wayneadams6627 I've gotten pieces from all over the place but if I had to guess then I would say mostly Amazon. I usually double check ebay to compare prices.
I think you missed the point. It was a 2 pack of identical framing blades and one lasted much longer than the other. I make videos. Sometimes we limit test the wrong tools on purpose. Think outside the box. I'm doing it right now with a demo demon blade on a Hardie siding job and I bet the results would shock you even though it's the "wrong" blade for cementitious siding.
@@John-p4q3b That was my first thought but it'd be such a weird order of operations. I'm just going to increase the size of the rabbet on all sills before siding installs. Probably 2 blade widths. That should be fine for all cedar shingles/claps and Hardie claps.
@@jessietovar9921 I call it the industry of endless variables. I went to a vocational high school for carpentry so you bet your ass I graduated knowing everything about everything. That was until I was on site with a master carpenter for a few weeks and realized I knew absolutely nothing. Now I would say I'm pretty versatile. It's probably displayed best in my tool trailer video. You don't get that much shit without knowing a little bit.
@@scottt5400 Back out Hardie siding? I'd rather do this. In the future I'm just going to increase the rabbet on all sills by 2 blade widths when doing Hardie siding.
@@Tool_Addicted_CarpenterThe blade adaption came through for the glued on sill. I'll try to keep that in the memory bank. I like to use Cortex screws in lieu of nails. The plugs work well. I glue & pocket screw a lot of pvc trim together and secure it to the structure with Cortex screws. It can be removed intact if needed. It streamlines production if you have a whole house or apartment building to trim.
@@ShrimpCracka No worries. I have no issues with install and no experiences with warranty claims on the product but the only warranty claims I've ever heard were paint peeling on Hardie siding. I've heard of it a handful of times. Hardie has a pretty good warranty program though so they come right out and replace it up to 10 years I believe.
eBay Ali ect there cheap because they’re not heat treated and wear out fast but because there plastic not brittle hard you can bend them into shapes like he did without breaking them in half
