Hey again! We speak together few months ago. I lìke make fìre bricks 25x12x6 cm. I think every soil is not same. I mean every soil no has the same ratio of clay. So, i try to make clay with a goot sieve, but a lot sand comes down mixed with the cly! The next time i try with a sieve 0,10 mm, but again comes with the clay some sand ( about 35-40%). I try for another time with a sieve 0,05 mm, the clay is very clear withiout sand, but this system is not work! Is very very slow! I have to try for many many hours with the fìgers! For me this is bad because i need a lot clay for the bricks. What you thìnk must i do? What way i have to follow? Thank you. Aris from Sparta , Greece
Just a heads up try "not" to spray it with water when in the siv because when you do it pushes some of the plant materials thro the screen, just set that glob to the side in a different bucket with water and separate it out more from the clay. Hope this helps. I have red clay with alot of silt sand and plant material. having 20% of your clay having materials in it isn't bad either, the plant material can help promote mold growth and a little mold in clay can make it easier to work with.
Hi again good man! I allready make clay for my fire bricks. I am Aris from Greece. For the clay, I used a screen for fine sugar and I think my clay is 100% without sand.. My next work to make fire bricks is the mìxing with finest sand . The bricks is 24x12x6 cm . You think I have to mix 50% sand and 50% clay?
I really did not know what cob was before watching this but it definitely looks like an easy enough and cheaper way to build a dog house for my pups thank you for sharing I'd like to see the update with the lime plaster and stearic acid as im curious to see how that works
your gaining heat with the pipes to the house. it all needs to be 6 feet down and insulate the risers. Glycol will make your pump last longer and preven any freezing in the winter
Plumb 2 tubes as high points. One intake, one out take. Make them the highest points in the system for super easy filling and flushing for maintenance.
Yeah, the idea is that the deeper you go, the more stable the temperature. In the winter it should be around 60-65f if I'm around 6ft deep. I'm closer to 5ft deep though, so maybe closer to 55-60f. Still should be better than 30-40f like it was this winter in the house
Wow, great project. Digging by hand, i couldn't do it. Maybe when you get more money, you could rent an excavator and go 8 feet deep as you planed. And definitely more hose. Also, that noisy pump, I would put it outside. I am looking forward for an update 🙂
Haha yeah the pump is really noisy, I wanted a way to keep it outside, especially because of noise, but I also wanted a way to keep watch of all of the connection points in one area. Now that I have a good understanding on how to make the system better, I plan on making another system for the other side of the house. I will make sure to update the process, thanks for watching!
It would be a quite a bit more efficient if you would have had more HDPE in the trench, looped, to create more in-ground dwell time for your water or glycol solution. I am actually surprised it was as efficient as it is though. Kudos for hand digging though. While I love manual labor, I would have bit the bullet to rent an excavator for $300.
Yeah, excavator would have been awesome. Unfortunately it just wasn't in the cards for me. Definitely need more hose to lay next time, but for some reason I thought it would be enough. I plan on making another system for the other side of the house and will document that process.
AM SHOCK THAT PEOPLE DONT USE A FORGE TO FIRE UP YOUR POTTERY THAT YOU COULD BUILD OUT OF A PROPANE TANK VERY EASY TO DO OR YOU GET SOMEONE TO BUILD ONE FOR YOU ALSO CHARCOAL BURN HOTTER THEN WOOD
Hi, about this 'bottom no-charr' problem... just try the same set-up but put 3-4 small bricks at the bottom, as a standard to put your pot on and create some bottom space. You can also put some small woodpieces at the bottom. Then the drainhole of the top pot should be sealed (closed) because the volatile gasses coming from the 'char-wood' inside must be forced to leave the double pot through the bottom hole and ignite & burn the bottomwood... so use the ignition gasses through the bottom hole and seal the top hole. Succes
the best places to find clay. Job sites were there digging up the basement for the house. All the clays are on top, and it is pretty clean. I processed over 100 pounds for my clay oven.
@Higher_Perspective_Art Try the job sites. They don't care. They have to pay to get rid of the dirt. Like I said, it is very clean and easy to process. It's good Especially if you sell clay. I don't know how much room you have, if you talk to the supervisor of the site. You can probably have it arranged where they bring you a dump truck. They offered it to me for free. I had to refuse. I was only building a clay often I didn't need five tons of clay.
I settled my highly diluted clay in a bucket (after sieving) by adding white vinegar- the clay settled within 2 days as a pancake on the bottom of the bucket. I poured off the excess water as much as possible then let it dry down.
Found some good wild clay on a river near the house. Got about 10 gal worth, now I’m doing a wet process with half the batch and a dry process with the other.
Thank you, and Terra Sigillata (which is on the piece at the 8 minute mark) isn't technically a glaze. Its clay mixed with sodium silicate measured to a specific gravity. I actually have a video on how to make it with simple ratios if you"re still interested. hope this helps!
Just when I thought I was at the end of the internet I wound up here. For real though this is the exact video ive been looking for. Ive been searching for natural clay and perlite videos and I guess the algorithem has been keeping you hidden!
I was in your same predicament when I first started looking for recipes also haha, I figured the ingredients and ratios would work because of previous videos and forums i encountered, but didn't find anything specifically for what I made in this video. I hope it helps and please feel free to share if it worked for you!
Thanks for the video man, I'm gonna buy this book now! It's something I've always thought about and handy to have this information to hand. Hope the fast went well, and to whoever reads this peace and harmony to you all !
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment! It was definitely a challenging fast and I did not make it all 72 hours, but I've been reading that fasting is not absolutely necessary. I may just try intermittent fasting for 23 hours and then eating 1 meal on the 24th hour for 3 days instead.
@@Higher_Perspective_Art It's always good to see other people take a deep dive into the their truth, I bet it's not easy, especially when people are eating around you 😅 does it give information on what foods to eat in the book you mentioned ? I know you spoke of alkaline foods.
I've done 3 sacred secretion cycles and am currently finishing up my 4th. I have the book The Sacred Secretion by Kelly Marie Kerr and it's very good detailing guidelines of what to do. I've done research on RU-vid and reddit looking for testimonials from practisioners. Not much information from those who've tried the practise. What did you experience from yours please?
and then as far as temper goes do you just knead it and work it into the clay body by hand? I learned this wet process on Andy Ward's channel and the part where you add temper looks like a lot of work. Just curious if you had experimented with other ways to do that step. Thanks :D
I usually just ram wedge it in for my throwing session. So it doesn't take much work, just enough to throw a few pots! I have watched other ways to do it but I still haven't tried any of them yet. I think when I start throwing more pots throughout the day I'll look for a more efficient system. Thanks for watching!
@@Higher_Perspective_Art right! That’s what I was thinking … I could just do enough for each session or so at a time. You’re welcome! Thanks for the reply!
