I have been in the air conditioning, refrigeration and heating business my whole life. I hope some of my videos are helpful for answering questions about the HVAC business.
It's the pipe with a UV inhibitor on the outside and poly inside. It's the chemical used for UV which is silly because you should have a proper cover on it anyways.
Why no class action on this product? Too many are failing and is a widespread sign of a defective product. It’s costing homeowners and businesses millions in repairs. Had to rip my interior walls out to replace our line sets. Very upset and frustrated. Class Action needs to happen!
I have a Bryant Plus 90 furnace built 2004, making it 20 years old, but I’m not made of money, so I’m trying to keep it working. Anyway, several weeks ago I was having rusty water leaking out even when not running the AC. Turns out these high efficiency furnaces generate condensate both when cooling & heating. The reason why they have PVC exhaust pipes is not just because the installers are being cheap & they can get away with it because the high efficiency makes the exhaust gas so cool compared to 80% efficiency furnaces, it’s actually because this condensation is corrosive to the galvanized chimney material, so you’re not being cheap using PVC, you actually MUST use PVC or it will get corroded very quickly. Anyway, I opened the bottom & discovered water dripping from the drain line for the condensate trap & the hard pipe to the floor drain was also plugged, so I replaced the drain line with a piece of clear poly tubing & sucked out the drain pipe with my shop vac. Black rusty debris versus the usual organic “snot” that this evolution usually produces. Now I’m having an issue with flame rollout. So, I did everything including pulling out the primary & secondary heat exchanger. Everything is surprisingly clean & the heat exchanger is not cracked, but after watching this video & hearing about how this brand/model of secondary heat exchanger is practically NON-cleanable, I’m realizing that I will probably need to replace it, but I’m going to stubbornly try to clean it while I’m waiting for the new one to arrive. $700 is better than $20k. Thanks for posting this video which was a great help for my decision-making.
My unit sits on cinder blocks and the blocks are on a plastic base. I get a serious hum from the new Goodman system. Maybe I will try these things out.
I had my Della mini split installed 6 months ago (3 zones) and I noticed the line set leaking on the wall. Does anyone know if this would affect the condenser?? Should I get it checked out?
I have an old 4 Ton R22 split system, the compressor rotted through releasing all the R22. The Attic is very in accessible, so I opted to purchase a new 407C compressor and leave the coil alone. Anybody see any problems with this strategy ? Now I need to get the system charged ? Can I do this myself ? Where can I rent the gear ?
I’m running a Frantz bypass oil filter on my 1990 Mazda B2200 pickup. It sees severe duty , long hot hours, dusty logging roads , dusty mine roads, etc. I run either LiquiMoly or redline 5w40 full synthetic in it. Main oil filter is a Donaldson filter, bypass is a Frantz Truck has 1,375,324 KM’s on it. I run 25,000 oil change intervals . Main filter gets changed at 12,500 km intervals. Oil runs clear and clean . I send off oil samples often and they tell me the oil is good for another 75,000 KM’s plus Bypass filters are an excellent way to get millions of KM’s out of your truck / car. Not sure why you had issues in your car, using the Frantz filter??????? Something not right here ….. bypass filters extend your engine life by hundreds of thousands of KM’s or more. 🤷???
Hello, We have serious issue with our New installed AC, I would really appreciate if you could advise on what is going on. I hired a contractor to replace our old R22 AC unit with a brand new Merit seer 14 Lennox and a new Lennox coil last year. After running a few times, sometime the compressor started acting up and from working normal it was switching to abnormal mode which was making a loud noise like buzzing noise and not providing cold air (fan was running all the time). Contractor who installed it, has checked and replaced the whole unit a new one. However, the new unit also after a few days ended up with the same issue!!! P.s. before installing the unit, they've vacuumed the line for 1 hour and also they have changed the whole supply line with a new 3/4" line. I have checked the power supply line 240-244v is always available at the AC disconnect. The contractor has attached a gauge to the unit and when buzzing noise occurred the pressure of the liquid side has dropped and gas went up. I took a video and uploaded in the link below) As I searched it seems that noise is from the compressor internal relief valve which is blowing. But this issue happens erratically and when I reset the compressor from the thermostat it goes away till next time. The previous unit (defective) which was replaced with this new one at end after a few cycles the compressor seemed to work (there was no compressor sound and no cold air) and only fan was running. We really wonder what's the issue? I have uploaded two videos of normal working mode and noisy mode Normal mode: streamable.com/ighm0i Noisy: streamable.com/gqk514
I work for Reflectix, the company that manufacturers the product that you are using here. HVBB48075 - Big Bubble. This product is an R6 when applied directly to the duct. However, you do need to apply a 3/4" air space against the duct to achieve an R8. Nice job though!
Sounds like you need to do an oil analysis. Microscopy would be helpful too. A normal oil filter will only filter to ~40 microns. A bypass oil filter will filter to ~2 microns or less. You can hear the difference: Better filtration = A quieter engine Wear is reduced: Particles 2~22 microns are the main cause of wear in an engine However, we still change our oil at the regular recommended intervals because the additive package is depleted e.g. TBN (Total Base Number) is usually very low: Alkalinity is depleted The wear on our engine is minimal and it uses no oil so we know it's not doing any harm. We probably could run the oil for longer without any harm. We've been running bypass filters over 4,000,000 km in many different cars. 🙂
Thank you for performing this test. I'm replacing some parts in an ice maker. I'm comfortable with the brazing but do not have a nitrogen setup. I do have a mig setup with argon/co2 however. I knew the argon would be up to the task but was unsure if the co2 would be compatible. This settled my concern.
@@NathansHVAC Wow, thanks. Decided to get my Universal and do a little refrigeration. First I'll upgrade my old Bryant. The furnace and AC have been working great for 28 years. So far I rebuilt the furnace completely. Now I will rebuild the AC and retrofit it with an HFC. The biggest problem is deciding which one, everyone has an opinion.
Do those current limiters work in all ECM motors? What is the motor size difference between the 20A and 30A motors? I recently had a 1/3hp motor go bad. Which limiter would have been the correct one? Current limiter acts as a fuse.
I have never taken out the 22. I just dropped the replacement refrigerant right in on top of it. The pressures are practically the same. It works good no problem and it saves you and the customer a lot of time and money.
If you know what the resistance of the solenoid coil should be (typically 1.4 ohms) you can check the coil resistance. Mine is reading 0 ohms now so I know it is shorted out and burner doesn't start, nothing happens in fact.
Holy crap, was that an 8” hole cutout for the entire ain’t handler? That removal of the horizontal pan didn’t help at all if that was the only cutout. I’ve see undercutting of top takeoff on duct but never something that severe. Nuts out there. I like that blower thing for the sanding grit.
So I have an accumulator and I'm changing a 5 ton r22 unit to r407c. Was just going to RX flush, blow out with nitrogen, then replace with new compressor that comes with POE oil. I guess I dont have to take the accumulator out and dump out any oil?
What kind of oil were you using? if you are using garbage Oil, yea I agree filtering it more isnt going to make the oil last longer, the cheap oils will break down alot sooner than a high quality synthetic. The key is using high grade synthetic and filtering.
Watch out for the fake Nissan NS-3 fluid bottles on ebay and Amazon. There are a ton of them for sale now. Go to alibaba to see where they are comming from and what they look like.
CVT fluid and filter should be done every 30K to 40K max miles. They are very sensative to maintenance. You eneded up replacing yours. Probably because it was wore out from extended service intervals. Use only the fluid from the manufacturer as well. I see in your video you did do that. All that anti seize is not necessary on those bolts. Its odd that they appeared tapered. But you said 2 were stripped out. You have to check torque specs.
