Videos and information related to Electronics, Vintage Electronics, Repairs, Projects, etc. There may also be info about woodworking and any other hobbies/interests I may wish to share. From time to time, I may share some information about medical imaging equipment operation and repair.
5:08 i gotta jump in right here. first push the wire in and hold it tightly. do not let it slip back with the next step. next insert release tool. now pull the wire out. if you don't push the wire in then chances are that the little tangs on the pin are going to bind on the plastic housing and you will struggle(and it will not come out) this will take a few tries before you get the hang of it but after that, it should be about 3 seconds per pin.
I remember the first time I installed a din unit, it confused me how to hold it in the dash! I thought it was the stupidest system, the shaft mount just made more sense for a car...at the time.
Funny because I had to "fix" the exact same Clarion model in my parents 1975 vintage motorhome just a few days ago. No sound was coming out, my father was sure the unit was dead. Turned out it was just bad speaker connections. Unit works perfectly, radio or cassette. Yes the knobs on your unit are not originals.
I had a Clarion AM/FM Tape deck in my car back in the 80s and it was a quality unit with great FM reception, similar to the Pioneer Super Tuners. I think it was still working when I sold the car. I looked up Clarion on the Crutchfield car stereo website and sadly their offerings are pretty slim now as are a lot of manufacturers. As you mentioned, a lot of new cars have the audio system built into the fancy pricey visual display now. My daily driver is a 1988 Toyota truck with a Pioneer AM/FM CD/MP3 player in the dash I purchased at Wally World a few years back and it's also great at FM reception.
Similar experience in my case too. Had decent load on the amp, played for 15 seconds. Smoke came out on both sides by Protection relays clicked off and lost sound. Turned power back on and both channels sound great. Found burned resistor that powers relay coil of protection circuit. Protection circuit doesn’t shut down anymore. Amp probably won’t have protection any,ore.3
Good info! Especially on the less expensive meters. I like the record feature on the Fluke 87 - useful for detecting voltage or current variations over time such as current drain on a battery in a parked car. Also, I found your pronunciation of Megohm to be different than what I've encountered here in the NE during my 68 years (Megohm vs Megaohm) I was wondering if that term has been changed or if it's just a regional or individual thing.
I didn’t see any notes in the beginning of your video saying anything about you doing repairs… do you do any??? I love your detail for correctness.👍🏼please reply. Thank you,Jim
almost all of my videos have a note at the beginning. This one being older may not have it. The short answer is that I don't take outside projects, as I don't have the time. This is only a hobby for me. Sorry :(
Saludos amigo desde Mexico yo tambien tengo un medidor Fluke el midelo 88 V tambien tiene la opcion de medir nano siemens son bastante buenos y tambien temgo un medidor analogico el Simpson 260 7 M muy bueno tambien saludos exelente video 👏🤝👍☝️🇲🇽
Hey Tony, when in comes to your home made snubber circuit inductor, is the reason for using an air core inductor with the specified 18 gauge, magnet wire of 22 turns on a 1/2” form as opposed to an iron or ferrite core toroid inductor of similar value strictly for cost and ease of manufacture, or is there a noticeable advantage to an air core inductor being used in this audio frequency range stereo amplifier? I understand there is a somewhat long list of advantages and disadvantages of iron core vs air core inductors, but I was wondering what was the primary reason for your choice of air core? Not being bound by a work schedule as busy as yours (being that I am retired) I might be inclined to use an iron or ferrite core toroid inductor for its more compact size understanding the space limitations in that area of the amplifier chassis as well as the frequency and noise requirements of this application. Certainly I understand it’s faster, cheaper and less time consuming to wind your own air core of this low value than to spend time ordering and waiting for delivery of a commercially built toroid. Glad to hear your recovery is going well. You have a really interesting, informative and fun channel and share a lot of good information and stories from your arsenal of knowledge. Keep up the good work! Thanks!
I Stumbled on a Phase Linear 700-B Touring Black Face Amp at a Pawn Shop Asking Prices Was $300 Bucks This Pig Is Not The Silver Face Yet I Didn’t Know Bob Carver Made a Touring Black Face Which is The Rare 700-B It Needs Some Love ❤️ Yet Bob Has Since Retired From The Business and Bob Has Recommended a Service in Washington State Ho Well Watching This Video I Would Like a Professional To Service This Amp Yet Because of The Weight Of This Pig 🐷Shipping Is Just Too Expensive Yet Again This Phase Linear 700-B Sounds Great and
I have a medical grade isolation transformer where I have also disconnected the ground wire from the secondary. I also included the option to reconnect the ground thru a 1M resistor. I did this thru a lighted switch so I absolutely know when I have a solid ground or a 1M ground. I mostly repair tube amps so 99% of the time I can have the solid ground. On some solid state amps I've noticed a higher noise floor if the ground is totally open. The 1M ground seems to help with this. I understand the danger, but I have observed less noise on my scope with the 1M ground. I'd appreciate your thoughts on this. By the way, a great video. Very educational for any novice.
Tony, 1 direct, 2 film, 3 electolytic is the most obvious sequence, by the way with my headphones i was able to get a very little punchiest sound. Maybe another sequence and recording the exact same clip of music for the 3 options could have different comments/ results,
So it seems to me that even though a film cap and an electrolytic cap have the same "nominal" value their performance when placed in a given circuit may vary. With audio equipment there are complex interactions between all the components as they are working to move a complex musical signal through the amp. That musical signal will vary all over the map in regard to frequency and volume. So the original designers tuned the finished circuits by testing with different frequencies and fine tuned the design. I'm not saying that I could hear the difference with my ears but I'm sure the substitution of one type of cap for another does have an effect on how a given circuit performs. I guess you could "get away with" switching components but you no longer have the circuit that the original designers built. I believe you when you say that your ears couldn't hear any difference but then again ears are not a piece of electrical test equipment. I would be more interested in seeing both amps hooked up to a spectrum analyzer and seeing if there is any difference in frequency response. I guess I'm nit picking here but just assuming there is no difference because your ears can't hear the difference is not a scientific as testing with test instruments. Let's just say test equipment has better resolution than the human ear otherwise the question is not is there an electrical difference but is there a difference we can hear. Those are two different questions.
Didn't hear differences, i'll retry with my good headphones at home, film capacitors in the case that you can find the right kind for replacement are for sure more reliable and this is a good point to do a work that will last longer, another parameter that intrigues me it's the tolerance range, many electrolytics are 20% tolerance +-, replacing with something with a tighten tolerance can improve in some parameter the audio performance of the gear? Slew Rate or something around? Many thanks Tony, i like a lot to see your contents, it makes me haappy!
I HAVE A ,,, STA-2270 - STA-95 - STA-2100 - STA-2100D - STA-2300 - and others ALL REFURBISHED - with higher quality parts , So Powerful , Will make 200w and 300w Speakers blush .Bought them from a Stereo Tech and also a collector . I want to make a video of which sounds better ..her quality parts , So Powerful , Will make 200w and 300w Speakers blush .Bought them from a Stereo Tech and also a collector . I want to make a video of which sounds better .. Paid almost 4000.00 for the 2100-2100D-2300 in total with refurbishing . Love them ..Because of your video i got into this project , :)
I made a discharger for working on HV amplifier power supply circuits similarly, capable of quickly discharging a bank of caps at 3 kV and less. I think I used a large wirewound 100k resistor to do it, along with a switch. It discharged much quicker than waiting for the bleeder resistors across each cap to do it.
Interesting and highly educational video. After seeing your alignment procedure with the wobbulator, now I remember why I prefer adjusting the IF with a spectrum analyzer/tracking generator.
4:00 Kind of confusing how some engineers refer to TP as a "test point" on a schematic, while others refer to TP as a common "tie point" on an unused terminal on a valve, vacuum tube, or terminal strip. (edit: added timestamp)
You should not have touched the tubing dial while tweaking the detector. That’s moving the goalposts. I would say your IF ended up too peaked, by the touchy tuning. You should have taken a closer look at the IF curves when you had them, instead of using the detector probe.
Thank you for sharing the procedure. You sharing involves a lot of things that other people don't want to share with us and that is selfish on their part. THANKS, AGAIN!!!
A Great demonstration with alot of "pitfalls" !! Trade secrets, I believe you were trying to say in the beginning of your intro. I figured alot of this out by just repitition of alignment sequence. Still, I won't spend $2K or more for a good 2015. Past that in my time. I enjoy the thorough style of your work, thank you.
Kudos to you Tony for making this video! This is one of the best explained and easy to follow videos I have seen on performing a visual FM alignment. Great job!
My first HiFi purchase was a Fisher tuner of this vintage, which I believe had the multiplex FM (I didn’t know what it was). My unit had a 2nd chassis mounted below the tuner chassis labeled ‘preamp.’ There was an eight pin connector between the two chassis. It sounded much better, and tuned much better, than the stereo Sansui that replaced it. It was 1971. I wish I had it still, even if it was monaural. 🙂
Wife and I saw Jeff Lynne's ELO on 9-20 as well. It was a great concert. And as you stated, at 76, I don't blame him for making it his Over and Out tour. Just glad he made it back after 2018 and 1982. The energy they had and gave to the crowd was truly "Electric".
I noticed that the dial indicator (at least for FM) tended to "see-saw" which would mean that getting the accuracy ultra-perfect would be dependent on which direction you were tuning the dial.
