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About 4-5 times without adding flavor back in. But you can play around with adding flavors to the wood. Add whiskey to the barrel, port wine etc and let it soak for a couple of weeks 😊
@@Beerstories cool, thats what I thought. My homebrew club are sceptical on these. I like to think I, like you, am ahead of the curve on this one, and with the 5 gallon version now available I see it taking off. I brew 10L batches, so the 6.5 litre original is perfect for me to barrel and bottle condition a few too.
Hi, that idea looks great. I’m going to try it with my current brew. Can you tell me if you add the gelatine through the gas in or beer out port? Also, it sounded like a ‘yes’ but do you add the gelatine before the beer or after? Thanks, Mick.
Great video! This was very detailed, and very helpful. Planning on kegging my beer for the first time this year, and knowing how to clean it out beforehand is just what I needed.
I'll make a video on that soon :) Just do it as oxygent free as possible. I transfer to kegs and force carbonate. You can add a new yeast and let it bottle carbonate as well
You can find it on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/152349103450?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vAhUmTrSTta&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rEeteW-nQFG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Ikke den her, men det kunne man sagtens. Synes dog NovaLager er så ren, så man vinder ikke noget smagsmæssigt. Jeg har lige gæret en NovaLager under tryk og synes ikke det gør noget ved smagen. Gærer den stadig ved 17gr. Synes dog den var hurtigere under tryk…
Well, but it matters. Especially for very hoppy beers. But the beers can still taste great, so this would also be one of the last details to attend to. The beer could have just been a little better. Especially shelf life...
Thanks a lot for a great RU-vid channel! The quality of your tips are outstanding 🙏 Does the same rules as you mention in the video apply when fermenting under pressure? Cloud you recomend a pressure range for different stages of the process? Thanks in advance 🙏
Thank you so much ❤️ That really means a lot 😊 Ues, the same apply to pressure fermentation. I always set the pressure to 0,5 bar or 7 psi. Too much pressure stresses the yeast. But it will also create less esters and that’s why you can ferment at a little higher temp and get a little faster fermentation. But it’s always better to give it the proper time 😊 When fermentation slows down, you can add a little pressure, so it will carbonate naturally. Check out this guide on setting the right pressure according to temp: beerstories.dk/index.php/en/gudies/co2-table-for-carbonating-and-serving
@@Beerstories Thx a lot for your Replay! As a new brewer it is much appriciated. Im fermenting my first beer at the moment. Hopefully it Will become a Oktoberfest festbier style lager. I use a farmzilla but was confused regarding the pressure. Some brewing channels recomend 5psi for 1-2days then rise to between 10-14psi intill the end. I started fermenting yesterday at 5psi but turned it upp to your recommendation. Env temperatur is about 18C. Will the 7 psi be enough to avoid bad flavours? Thanks again!
@martinandersson248 Pressure ferment just lowers ester 😊 You can still create off flavors 😊 But yes, you have to adjust pressure according to temp to get the right carbonation. 12-14psi sounds right for some beers
Im just getting into brewing beer and have soooooooooo much to learn. Im fermenting in conical fermenters and im only fermenting with 1 or 2 psig. When I cold crash, can i pressurise the fermenter to 15 psig right before cold crashing to prevent O² being sucked back into the fermenter?
Hi, I would use 2ml per liter glycerine and about 300g of lactose. You can use my converter if you don't use metrics ;) beerstories.dk/index.php/en/gudies/converter-tool
Great stuff, thank you! I have a few rhizomes my buddy gave me and once I actually get them planted and they have a few years to mature this is gonna be my process. Finally, another use for my dehydrator :) I've been considering dry hopping with whole hops as much as possible in my IPAs since that is far less likely to cause hop creep than T-90 pellets. Cheers!
Thanks for another great video - I'm going to brew this :) Do you think I can use fresh/frozen blackberries instead of dried? Or is there a benefit of drying the berries first? Thanks!
Thanks, you’re very welcome 😊 You can use fresh, but there is a weight ratio that’s not correct. So you have use a little more. Maybe double… Fresh fruit often gives a little tartness, I think. I don’t get the same from dried fruits, but it might just be my BIAS running away with me, because the dried once are sweeter… 🤷🏼
great information. I am on year one of a centennial hop vine. Starting very slow but i know this is more of a 2-3 year play. I am surprised there is zero washing of the hops as i would think unwashed hops would increase the risk of infection by allot.
Thanks 😃 Yes, it will take a couple of years. You risk washing away the good things 😊 Just make sure there aren’t any visible dirt og insects. Hops are a preservative in themselves. That's why we add them 😉 And then it was quickly discovered that the bitterness and flavor were also good 😉 I would never dryhop with fresh hops, though…
Yes you can no chill into a keg no problem. Make sure to push 3-4 psi of CO2 on top of sealed hot wort. When it cools you still be slightly pressured instead of vacuum. Then release pressure and push O2 through the beer out line into the cooled wort for 10 seconds. Close prv and shake keg, then pitch.
I'm trying to figure out ways to set up recipes in Brewfather to do a double mash. How did you go with your efficiency and accuracy of your estimated readings?
Cold crash guardian is already invented. Less than $20. On the cheap and what I used for years now is a mylar balloon. I take a 3-piece airlock and remove everything but the middle piece. I then gorilla tape the balloon around the middle piece and insert that into your bung. I fill with Co2 from my soda stream and insert the whole thing near end of fermentation. Works perfectly and that balloon can be used over and over.
Coffee flavour usually best at 85C, if you are going to volatise the oils and remove astringency. However, this will be massively affected by quality of coffee beans, type of coffee, when the beans were roasted, quality of grinder and quality of espresso machine. If you are not a coffee-head like me, my suggestion would be to go to a good coffee shop and try some espressos and when you find the one you like best, just get them to put that one in a container and use that. Also talk to the people at the coffee shop, if they know their stuff they will suggest a coffee that matches what you want in the flavour - coffee can be fruity, chocolatey and everything inbetween - the advantage of this is that you know you like the coffee flavour and you also get a few espressos at the start of a day - win/win!
Another great video! Thanks again for all your help with developing the new 19L barrel and for being willing to check it out. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with for your next brew. Cheers
Or replace the airlock with an airproof cap (possible on conicals) or use a spunding valve to keep CO2 pressure on it when you cold crash. I use the former method because it's so simple and make award winning Hazy IPAs.
Been thinking of doing this myself but thought it might be worth putting a clear inline filter. So the filter might catch a lively brew and foams over.. Was also considering building a small scale proof on concept to compress the co2 onto a pressure vessel to use as beer poor pressure. Realising that it would take extreme pressure without cooling to turn co2 into a liquid.
On your fermenter tap, remove the bottom barb part and replace with a duotight adapter, then you can run 8mm tube directly to a 8mm duotight liquid ball lock, less chance of leaking, contamination and oxygen
You can also get a ball lock gas post at the top with a small piece of silicon around the shaft. Then when you tighten it seals. Use ball lock to blow off tube, then when finished and transfer simply attach the gas
Yeh I admire your channel mate, you clearly have a great understanding of brewing. Figured the comments may help someone else who watches the vid. Pressure fermenter all the way now though, I brew without pressure and just add for the spunding at end or cold crash for hoppy beers. I had a setup like that for a couple years getting gold medals, worked well but always good to reduce the risk of oxidation though
This experiment required substantial thought, time, and space - huge appreciation to you for sharing these kinds of experiments with the homebrewing community. Thank you!!!
Awesome channel, i dont understand why you dont have more views.👍 What are the main difference between Nova and 34/70 in a German pilsner you think? Do you pressure ferment?
Thanks ❤️ Views are slowly growing, but it just takes time 😊 Nova is more clean, less sulphur. It should also have less diacetyl, but I don’t get that from w34 either. It’s a matter of giving it time to clean up
What a great idea, I have tried a few methods for cold crashing, I ferment in Speidel plastic fermenters which are strong enough to crash without collapsing but as I keg in corny kegs this looks like a great solution.
I'm in the middle of the primary fermentation process of a lager. Once primary is finished, and I let it have a diacetyl rest, are you saying I shouldn't rack to a secondary for lagering? That I should just rack straight to a keg for secondary/lagering/conditioning (I keg beer, I don't bottle)?
Straight to keg 😊 And have the keg really good purged and try to do an oxygen free transfer 😊 Then cold crash and force carbonate at the same time. The first beer will be hazy, but then it clears up. And you could add galetine if you want it super clear 😊
I'm a little confused here. I understand your basic points that oxygen = bad and cold crashing with an airlock creates a pressure differential that causes outside air to be drawn into the fermentation chamber; got it. However, you went on to say that one solution would be to cold crash in your bottles. This is where I am confused, doesn't the process of bottling introduce significantly more oxygen into your beer and thus entirely defeats the point?
If you sugar carbonate the yeast should eat up the oxygen. The best thing you can do is keg the beer. Try and see this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ii2VSfUvoXs.htmlsi=YvThFwySz72qk7Zb Or this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dXv_zuk60oA.htmlsi=GM-dP_XKZmZZ9BUE
@@eluthriastarise1770 An additional point on carbonation. If you cold crash in the bottle how long does it take to carbonate? Carbonation at cold temperatures must take forever.
CO2 will indeed blanket and exclude other gases. 1746 people and 3500 livestock suffocated in the Lake Nyos disaster in 1986. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Nyos_disaster
You can’t trust wiki to give the whole explanation. I don’t know what caused the Lake Nyos disaster, but CO2 is only half of it. Weather and other problems must have played a big factor. And it only takes 2min to sufficate. It will probably takes longer for gasses to mix in such a large CO2 cloud. But it is a fact of science that gasses mix and act as they filled out the space alone. John Dalton (1766-1844) was a British physicist and chemist. He introduced the concept of atomic weight but is perhaps best known for formulating Dalton's law: "The partial pressure of any gas in a mixture of gases is equal to the pressure that it would exert if it occupied the entire space alone. The sum of the partial pressures of all the components in the mixture equals the total pressure of the mixture." In other words, each gas spreads uniformly in space regardless of the presence of other gas molecules - "light" and "heavy" gases mix uniformly and not in layers. Liquids will layer, but gasses wont.
It is in the very definition of a gas that it is made up of rapidly moving particles. Unless you freeze gas to absolute zero (-273°C), it will move around and mix. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g2r8-OXoI_A.htmlsi=iVBeBvNoVkCt4xwl
Would it be the same "always store your beer cold" with counter pressure filled pale ales? Was hoping to be able to pressure ferment, pressure transfer to my kegerator for a month, then bottle the rest of the beer to have a selection of bottled beers..
I tried this with counter pressure filled bottle stored in room temp for 3 weeks vs stored cold. It's a night and day difference. I could drink it but it was way worse. Store hoppy beer cold.
