Yes, you can do the same with 2 single channel receivers. The heating on will go to power the zone valve for the second zone assuming that you have an existing multizone system.

It's a while now since I done it but yes, I had no issues getting the app to work with it all.

It depends on how the heating system is configured. If you have an existing S-plan or a Y-plan system with valves to control the heating and hot water then Hive will work the same way. Some very old systems have the heating and hot water on the same circuit with no valves at all. In which case you can only do all or nothing. Hive alone cannot change this behaviour.

I just looped the power from one to the other. You can see in the video, on the right hand receiver I have two wires going into each LN&E where it loops to the receiver beside.

Technically possible but you would really need 2 single channel receivers for the heating zones as the second channel on the dual channel receiver is specifically designed for hot water so is just on and off on a timer, not controllable by a thermostat etc. whereas with 2 single channel receivers each one would have it's own thermostat.

On the dual channel receiver yes, heating on is terminal 4 but on the single channel receiver it's terminal 3. The wiring is considerably different between the two receivers.

@@seanbranagh Thanks mate, I realised that when I went to install mine.

To replace a 3 channel controller (I assume one hot water and two heating zones) you will need to buy Hive active heating with hot water kit. This pack will include the thermostat for the first zone, the dual channel receiver for the first zone and hot water and the hub for it all to talk to the internet. You will also need to buy the additional zone pack. This will include a thermostat for your second zone and a single channel receiver to control that zone. This second thermostat/receiver will communicate with your existing hub. You should end up with two thermostats, two receivers (one single and one dual channel) and a single hub.

@@seanbranagh Thanks Sean, I was wondering for a supplier though, (who did you buy from) I live in west Cork and I'm checking with local shop this morning as to whether they stock or not. Amazon are my next option but some of the descriptions are contradictory. Heatmerchants are next though 40 miles away.

I got mine from Amazon but yes, I totally agree. I have just checked again now and the listings make absolutely no sense. This one says heating and hot water so it should be right although it says in the box that it's a single channel receiver. I think this probably wrong and it is in fact a dual channel receiver. It has to be for heating and hot water. www.amazon.co.uk/Hive-Heating-Thermostat-Professional-Installation/dp/B011B3J6B8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=hive%2Bactive%2Bheating&qid=1613388528&sr=8-2&th=1 This one should be the extra thermostat and receiver but it doesn't mention the single channel receiver. The thermostat is useless by itself so I assume it does include the single channel receiver but I can't guarantee that. www.amazon.co.uk/Hive-Heating-Thermostat-Professional-Installation/dp/B018E1SHQU/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=hive%2Bactive%2Bheating&qid=1613388528&sr=8-2&th=1 The Amazon listings made a lot more sense back when I bought it.

Yes, it is strange although with Hive at least it can actually be more flexible because you can add up to an additional two single channel receivers for a total of up to 3 heating zones. I also seen someone in a recent comment here who had a system where it was easier to place the second receiver at a different location within their house. A similar situation where I work; We have two separate units beside each other, each with it's own oil heating. I convinced my employer to get Hive and I installed it. I used a single channel receiver and thermostat in each building with a single hub in one building so it operates as multizone even though it is two separate units with separate boilers.

No, technically they don't need to be in the same place but if you are replacing an existing multizone time clock then all the wiring you need for both Hive receivers should be at that location where the old time clock was. If for whatever reason it is easier to install them in different locations you just have to remember that both will need to be within range of your Hive hub.

@@seanbranagh thanks for the reply mate. I ended up putting the dual channel where the original time clock was. I put the single one up in the hot press and used the redundant stat wire as my permanent live. No issues with connectivity.

No, You can if you want but originally I just turned the old mechanical thermostats up full to effectively bypass them. Later I removed the old thermostats but kept the wiring and replaced them with just indicator lights so I could easily see when each zone was heating.

To be honest I can't remember in detail how long it took because I was totally exhausted. I think it was a couple of hours back down to high camp where we slept for a little while as we had started for the summit at 2am. Then it was quite a few hours all the way back down via Island Peak base camp to Chukkung where we spent the night. Then just a few days hiking all the way back down the Everest Base Camp route to Lukla. Trekking down is much faster and easier than the way up!

Sean Branagh wow that’s awesome thanks for sharing you’re information, I’m planning to do the climb in 2021 just gathering all info I can get

It's an amazing trip. Good luck and enjoy!

Absolutely fantastic. I have been with them for a decade now. People are put off by their price but the fact is that you get what you pay for.

Not climbing experience really as the training with ropes / ascenders / decenders etc. suitable for Island Peak can happen during downtime alone the trek there via Everest Base Camp as I done. Physical fitness, strength in the calves, previous experience at altitude and sheer determination was key for me.

@@seanbranagh you climbed up with or without exp ?

@@pavanpalli7156 No, I didn't have previous climbing experience with ropes. I received that training while on the trip, on route to Island Peak. The headwall rope section is very strenuous but it's not technically difficult. The key for me was good fitness, good strength in my calves from a lot of hiking experience and previous experience at altitude.

@@seanbranagh thats Great, Thnk you

I have a /27 public subnet with Andrews & Arnold.

Jake Hall most of the time we seen different culture. ✌🏽

Thank you.

No, my switch is 1Gig so there is no difference between Cat 5e and Cat 6 at this stage. The difference will come in the future when I eventually upgrade to 10 Gig. The Cat 6 will handle that whereas Cat 5e wouldn't.

@@seanbranagh Are you worried about how close your cables are to electrical circuits such as ring main socket outlets?

@@Mike_5 No. Quite a few years ago I worked for a cabling company installing data cables and of course in commercial buildings we isolated the Cat 6 as much as possible from mains power cables as this is obviously best practice. In my house however, because I was retro fitting the cables under the floors it was quite difficult or impossible to avoid situations where the Cat 6 is in close proximity to existing mains wiring. I have never experienced an issue with this personally, even with Cat 5e at 1 gig. Maybe in the future when I eventually move to 10 Gig this will become an issue but I doubt it because even the longest Cat 6 cable in my house is only about 30 metres so this short length will help combat the effect of any outside interference.

It was a dual channel controller you had before with the heating and hot water separate? You now have a dual channel Hive receiver in its place? If that is the case the only thing I can think of is the spark has for some reason connected the two outputs together for the heating and hot water. I would get them back to check it. The wiring of the Hive receivers is pretty much the same or identical to a standard boiler clock. I can't see why a qualified spark would have any issue with it.

@@seanbranagh Many thanks Sean. We will try a different electrician and check the wiring. All the best

Also the hive instructions for the single channel show a live,neutral,heating on and heating off, is it necessary to have both in and off, looking at your setup for upstairs you just have hearing on it looks like

@@Davesmodels In my case I only need heating on (both upstairs and down) as this sends power out to the relevant zone valve when heat is called. The heating on/off outputs are just the two outputs from a SPDT relay so in the case of the single channel receiver, when the heating is off common will be connected to heating off output instead of the on output. I imagine that this is used in some scenarios or with some specific systems / boilers.

2 heating zones + 1 hot water = 3 channels required for my installation. Besides, the dual channel receiver that Hive provide is not designed for two heating zones. It is designed for one heating zone plus a hot water circuit. One receiver can only communicate with one thermostat. Each additional heating zone requires an extra receiver and thermostat (up to maximum of 3 zones). I just checked their site and this hasn't changed.

@@seanbranagh nope, in your video you have a single channel receiver to your boiler plus a duel channel, single channel is for combi boiler, duel channel is for hot water systems, you don't need both recievers, 1 hub will control many things,

@@1971dave Yes, a single channel receiver can be used for combi boilers. It can also used for conventional boilers where there is either no hot water cylinder or the hot water cylinder is on the same plumbing circuit as the radiators with no zone valves, as with much older systems. A single channel receiver can also be used, and is advertised by Hive for use to control a second heating zone in a multi zone S-Plan system like what I have. Heating Zone 1 & Hot water cylinder: Receiver 1 (Dual Channel) Heating Zone 2: Receiver 2 (Single Channel) It really is that simple. How else would you propose I do this with only a dual channel receiver when I need 3 switched outputs to replace the 3 channel receiver I had? Yes, one Hive hub can control many things. In my case it also controls a Hive smart plug. A friend of mine also uses it to control lights. That is completely irrelevant to this though. It doesn't change the fact that one receiver and one thermostat is required for each heating zone, regardless of the boiler type or the hot water system. The boiler type (combi or conventional) will only determine whether or not one of those receivers needs to be dual channel. Don't take my word for it; the information regarding the need for an extra receiver and thermostat per zone is now on the Hive website.

@@seanbranagh great video, I am looking at buying an additional thermostat and receiver for my parents home as I already bought them the hive hub which currently controls their hot water and downstairs heating, they always tell me how they would love to be able to control the upstairs heating (which is on a separate thermostat). How easy was it to add the multizone thermostat to the hive hub?

@@nathanprescott6816 It is really easy; just go into the app and there is an option to install devices. Just choose the option to add heating zone and the hub will search and should find the new thermostat.

I haven't changed any wiring at the boiler itself as the hive install just replaced the old timer. Mine is just a conventional oil boiler though so there is just a single feed out to the boiler house from the wiring centre and its split into the boiler and circulation pump.