Welcome to my RU-vid Channel, please enjoy the videos on photography, technology and anything else I can lay my hands on.... If you've got any questions email me directly, scalespeeder@gmail.com rather than in the comments.
You keep on repeating the camera takes 120 film. By now Iam convinced it does! You use Ilford film, but they print the film numbers in grey instead of black, this makes it hard to see the numbers for winding on. After taking a picture, wind on the film, this will prevent double exposures.
Any one wanting one of these, Mine is for sale very good condition with the owners manual and serial cable for updates. $50 US dollars shipping state side included.
Hey I have one of these! Or rather, my wife Sarah has one. She just uploaded a video to my channel showing it off. Please ignore her when she says stuff about me kidnapping her and locking her in my film cooler. All lies! She's fine, not being forced to comment on all my sprocket hole photo videos at all. I'm not unhinged.
Hey!! This camera was made in the GDR. In Dresden. It is called beirette vsn. West berlin wantet to have it too and bought it but put their own name on in (can't remember it right now). AND in another video on youtube I found out that it was also produced for England, so this explains the feet distance showing on your camera. Of course it also got a different name for England too. I got the GDR camera and gonna try it today. Your video was really helpful. Greetings from Germany
Just watched this and found it really useful! Thanks Rob! I got quite a surprise when you shared the amazon page, until that moment I hadn't realized the video was nearly 10 years old. Nice one Rob, this video has really stood the test of time.
Can't see how the demonstrated method can provide a reliable result. The little scraps of tape used to attach the new film to the remaining tap of film protruding from the cassette were only holding the film level in the middle.. hence having to jiggle it to get the filom to locate between the felt light traps. If the camera into which it is loaded has an auto rewind when the end of film resistance is detected there is a good chance that these side edges may get caught.. and you can't wiggle it when it's inside the camera. The rewind process may well be powerfull enough to rip away the fixing and leave you with the film immobile in the camera.. causing the need to find a loading bag or a darkroom before you can put another film in. If you must reuse previous commercial cassettes then I would suggest overlapping the two layers of film and taping full width (crossways) on both sides to ensure that the film edges do get guided back into the cassette successfully. If you can use a Canon model that prewinds the film out of the cassette then proceeds to reinstate the film to the cassette as you shoot then all the better. you will be aware of any issue before you have taken your valuable shots. Also, it will count the number of frames available before you start to shoot confirming what you thought you had loaded.. and you can start by shooting two dummy (dumped) shots to bypass the fogged section of film exposed to light when setting up the bulk loading attachment. In a conventional transport scenario you may not really know when those frames have arrived for exposure and therfore loose your last two shots taken. Good luck. Enjoy your analogue photography. 😉 Oh yes.. Don't leave your bulk loader open while you go to find scissors or make a cup of tea.
Have the original. Use it for plein air painting on an old BOB Revolution jogging stroller. Hangs by the straps from the handlebar. Bag carries a small pochade box, paints, wet wipes, brushes, locking brush washer (hangs from strap underneath) bug net, light tripod, small umbrella etc. Stroller carries anything else required.
Hello! I am a photographer, I do digital photography. I have a similar no-battery, focus free camera and I bought a 400 speed B&W film. In digital camera it is easy to change aperture, shutter speed or ISO, to get the correct exposure we want. I'd have no problem with manual film camera, but I feel very uneasy and .. well I don't know how to describe. Haha. Can anyone tell me how do I go about this? I usually have the sense of settings as I see the light in real world, as I'll need more light or cut down light and all or where to point and meter. But I can not do any of that here. I can sense that sometimes they are under exposed and some will be over exposed. also, What do I tell the developer about the process? whether to push or pull or anything? (because even I don't know how they are being exposed). Thank You! : )
I absolutely agree with strawberry fields' comments. Wonderful explanation and helpful suggestions on ways to maximize this great point and shoot camera. Thank you.
cool. i'd like to know if there's a transmitter that replaces the OTG cable that allows you to take cell phone videos using the H1 recorder's microphone. And what would it be, please?
Not only was your attempt at making a bacon and egg roll shameful, but it was embarrassing for you. Every bacon and egg roll needs one full egg plus a rasher of bacon on toasted bread with sauce. You have absolutely no clue how much egg each customer gets, nor bacon and you failed at toasting the buttered bread in the pan juices to make it perfect, but you served it all on a stone cold roll. “The World’s best”? 😂 I would suggest yours was a worse attempt than any home cook could do on all levels. Sorry to break it to you but you are no chef and if you are cook, you have chosen the wrong path for your career, as any home cook can and does cook better than you. Take your dirty and meaningless whites back to the Thrift shop.
Nowadays these camera's go for 200-400 euro's. Wish I bought a lot of them back when this video came out haha. Luckily I found one for 5 euro's last week at a flea market :D
Hey my man you saved me money and hecka time! I was able to change in America the driver side which is your guys passenger side with ease! Also hey I promise you I didn’t use any violence!😊
I have a flash unit i bought back in 2009. Many years now not working correctly. It can still fire flashes, just that sometimes strong streaks of white light will appear in the photo. The TTL function is also not working correctly when the cam auto-iso setting is on. So i just use the flash for some volunteering work instead of just letting it sit around doing nothing and waiting for time destruct. I do have other working flashes, but i keep them for paid work. Flashes wear out, so unless each one fired are paid, then it is not worth the while. I am not a rich man. The organization i volunteer also has an entry level cam, which i always request to use when i volunteer to take photos for them. However, when the venue has ballroom lighting i will not be able to use the cam because it will need a working external flash to go with it, which leads to the problems i mentioned in the first statement i wrote. Sometimes to do feel like using my working cam to help take photos for the organization at ballroom lighting venues, but after seeing them spending money to hire a professional photographer to take event photos for them at times, i held back this decision. whatever volunteer work i do for them involving photo taking, i will only do it with their cam and my dying flash unit.