This is a new learner. Who Solenoid can be detached with the help of a screwdriver easily by pushing it up by inserting screwdriver in the gap beneath the solenoid.
At 0:52, I was unable to slide the plastic shroud forward by hand. What worked for me: I slid the edge of my iFixit Jimmy between the plastic shroud and the black/silver-colored metal ring. By rotating the spudger away from the front of the lens, I was able to break the adhesive and push the plastic shroud forwards. Once I did this in a few spots around the lens, I could push it the rest of the way with my hands.
Hi Ahmed. Watched your video about dust in the front element of a Tamron 150-600mm lens . After being able to take off the front lens element I find there is a gap between the front and back lens element. Do you know how to take the apart to clean between them
Hi, very nice job !!! I have a noticeable backfocus issue on my 60d (many Lenses all same result) and if i focus with live view its perfect. Do you know if i need to turn clockwise or counter clockwise to adjust and resolve back focus issue ? (I talk of course about the Three screws which adjut position of sensor with springs effect) The amount of back focus is about 2,5cm (1 inch) at 1m with EOS 35 IS USM, and pretty the same amount with all lenses (Tested with 70-200 F4, 100 F2.8 Macro, 50 F1.8 STM, 35 F2 IS USM) Best Regards
First of all fully tight all the three sensor adjusting screws. Then step by step loose all the screw for one and quarter turn. THIS IS HIT & TRIAL METHOD BUT WORK.
You have to reassemble and test the sharpness in centre, all the corners. This method is only 95% accurate. If result is out of focus readjust all screw either tight or loose in same amount, simultaneously. And check. Digital caliper mounted on a steel plate is the more precise accurate method to adjust the parallax effect, but even in this case you must have original distance reading of mount to sensor. So above method seems to be easier in your work.
We just clean the magnetic strip, Now you can watch in next video we experiment 35mm f1.4 sensor on 35mm f1.2 because 35mm f1.2 sensor is not available, Thanks for your comment
Not a fan of touching the internals of the SWM unit without finger cots or gloves - especially without cleaning the mating surfaces afterwards with isopropyl alcohol - but good repair otherwise.
Thanks for your video. I can see you are very careful with the disassembly which will help when putting back together. With the fungus, was there none inside the lens groups? So only on the back of the front group and front of the back group?
Good video. I have been repairing lenses for almost 40 years now and it is good to see a RU-vid video where someone actually knows what they are doing. Two things, when those encoders are scuffed that badly so there is a bunch of white power on it, I usually replace them. What were you using to remove the scratches? Lastly, connecting and disconnecting the main board will go easier if you remove the leatherette, take out two screws and remove the zoom ring.
Thanks for your comment, I am also repairing since 1981. We use cotton bird's to remove scratches if its not badly scratched otherwise we also change parts.
Bought a second lens about 4 years ago off a friend. I just had the pleasure of my second lens jam. This time I have play between 400 and 500. But it will not go down to 200mm. I tried repairing this second lens. I watched serval videos and it seemed easy enough. I did it all as instructed. But I cannot get the shroud to slide forward. So I cannot get to that one screw that think is causing the problem. What do you think is causing it not slide forward?
