A random mashup of videos on the various projects I work on. Hopefully these help someone out like all the other videos which have helped me over the years...😊
Just brilliant video. For siz long months...I been manually turning on CH get HW. I can finally see what problem is and find a cheap solution i just needed to know (how to unclip unit off pipe, how to test unit). I really didnt want to pay a plumber 80 labour + 80 part for what was a simple job.. Edit : ANOTHER USEFUL VIDEO ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0MKnKj5bdzY.html Bless this channel !!!!
You jumped to how to put on glass bed, their are two screws at the back do you put the glass bed on top of the screws? This video is how to install glass bed and you jumped ahead to already installed, take down this terrible instruction video and stop putting up videos .
Am I right in thinking when it's just the heating it would be on one side, just the water on the other and if both are on it's in the middle? Mine seems to get to the middle and then just keeps clicking/
Hey please i wait 10 months for help and respond :C ENDER 5 PLUS MOTHERBOARD 4.2.7 WITH NEW lcd tochscreen i dont know how to maka a marlin i only put the firmware on lcd now printer works but acts like it was ENDER 3 PRO not ENDER 5 PLUS So i guess i need to change configuration but this is too complicated for me :C please help me or someone
I've downloaded your files from Thingverse and ran the compiled file through progisp (which is in my root folder) the board is correct, and deffintly have bootloader on baord. only thing is the fuse bits aren't the same as in the video. tried the original ones that came up when I clicked the read button. then i tried yours but it always comes up with the same error "flash verify error at:1h", from then on same error every time and screen turns on but is blank. then I tried flashing the origonal ender 5 pro 1.1.15 software but then comes up with the error "flash verify error at: 2h".spent the last 3 days striaght on this is their any advice you can give to fix the issue????
my rear speakers are quiet and the sound comes in weaves . sometimes complete no sound. also the subwoofer after using it for 10-15 min it stucks playing the bass. could it also be an power issue?
everything is wired right now . have the screen powering up and was able to flash its firmware but cant get the mainboard .. i got the .bin file from thiniverse but its not doing anything when i boot up on it
I've heard some report the file has to be renamed to firmware.bin. Also needs to be at the root of the sd card with no other files or directories. If its working you should get a delay when starting up the printer.
Not sure exactly but sounds like the touch screen files didn't copy properly from sd card. I've heard that sometimes it takes few attempts. Also the sd card needs to be formatted in certain way as I describe in the video and the touchscreen files need to work with your version of Marlin
@@amp9438thank, it turned out the wiring was bad so I had to make new wires. I have a new problem when I set the bed temp and hotend the screen would do this weird thing and I'm not sure what to do.
Hi AMP, the correct P/N should be BA00AS, not BA08CC. It will work, but it isn't correct. You can clearly see even in your video, that the two voltage reference resistors just next to the stabilisator are present even on your PCB.
Any chance you have the firmware and the DWIN files to match? Also quick tip you can rotate the connectors on the board so you don’t have to swap the bltouch wires around for the Zstop
I just did this upgrade. Everything is working well except it seems that I have an issue where the z step will step up and not step down. Did you have to increase the current on the z axis for the stepper motors?
Hi Mate any chance you can attach a link to the firmware.BIN file for the 4.2.7 Board please I have the firmware for the screen all done and working I have tried to build the firmware in platformio but I keep getting errors starting to become very frustrating. I have tried the firmware from the link to thingiverse it doesnt work either. I have made sure my SD Card works to upload the firmware formatted to fat 32 and 4039 as it uploads the firmware to the screen fine. if you could share a link to the *.bin file that would be great Cheers
The firmware link is here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6076947/files. Did you download the file, rename it to .zip (remove .thing extension), extract the files and copy the .bin file onto clean SD card at the root? Also could try renaming to something like firmware.bin As this is an old video I believe the version of Marlin I used is no longer on their website so my configuration files won't work and need updating. I plan on upgrading my one so will upload these when I can.
Your vidoe helped me in the first 40 seconds I hadn't checked to see if the light stays on inside! Mine didn't? I had repaced the fuse and still not my double gang socket for soem reason the right side burnt out! Plugged it into the left and hey presto! Was about to strip the machine apart! 😅
So I followed this completely and am having a couple issues. The screen firmware went through but my screen just stays showing the boot logo of marlin. My bl touch probe extends twice and stays red. Any help on what I may be missing would be great. I also noticed the board isn’t taking the new firmware.
Sounds like the firmware hasn't uploaded onto the main board. Did you add the .bin to the root of the sd card with no other files? Also is it correctly formatted to fat32? Also not sure if the sd card size makes a difference? I usually just use an 8gb one. Once you insert the card and power on the printer it should have a small delay starting as it updates the firmware. You could also try renaming the file to something like firmware.bin
@@amp9438 nice. I'm in the process of fixing mine, and from a few tests it seems the same components failed on my unit (also left rear speaker!). Thanks for posting the video
Great video! I’ll be honest I was hoping to see the rotating cluster dimmer dial worked on as well. I’ve had three switches over the years and dials on all three acted differently. Only worked “okay” whereas the others either barely made a change, or would start bright, get slightly dimmer, then get bright again
This video is awesome! I was looking at my 5 Plus yesterday and i was wondering why it's using a different motherboard and firmware when it's basically same hardware setup as Ender3++ I currently have an highly modified and not anymore Ender3 Pro and an Ender3 V2, i run on both Mriscoc firmware which i just love what it does to your machine. It gives you unbelievable many more options and settings... So now i was looking at my Ender5 plus and i wanted the same thing but i wanted to make sure i can run 4.2.7 motherboard on it. So you showed me that YES it works great 👍 But Mriscoc works only with 24 bit color screen that Ender3 V2 has and to be honest im not a big fan of touch screen either so i think this is a great option for this upgrade. Thank you very much for this great video 😎👍
@@amp9438 well can was acting up so nothing to loose. I ended up taking apart and damaging wires (sound familiar ?) but got it back together and working. There was next to no wear so just cleaned it up, added tiny amount of grease. Plus added a small hole through which we can add oil. We’ll see how it works out.
I was wondering the same thing at first, If you download creality slicer or an alternative, you can upload them directly to your printer through the cable.
@@amp9438 Unfortunately after hours I am still unable to compile a bin file. I have tried using the one you supplied. Found out that you had to rename it as "firmware" with a couple of numbers infront of it however all i am currently getting is the marlin logo for however long with the hotbed just getting hot. Compiling the bin file shows that the configurations are out of date and the marlin archives do not have the 2.1.2.1 files available.
As this is an old video I believe the version of Marlin I used is no longer on their website so my configuration files won't work and need updating. I plan on upgrading my one so will upload the new version when I can.
I have a massive issue with the 10 pin cable. Are you not able to just use the existing cable? I understand the clip on it is backwards but could you not cut a small square in the plastic and make it connect the original way round?
@@Duros1394 Can you just plug the connector into the socket, or does it also work, can you operate the TP? Because I don't think it works! I think the Rx and Tx have been swapped on the cable.
Thanks for this video. I have had problems with my heating working intermittently for the last few months. It will work fine for a few days or maybe a week and then the boiler won’t fire when the call for heat is made. If I turn it all off for a couple of days and then start again it will work again for a while. I assumed it was the boiler at fault nd maybe the PCB but then I noticed the hot water on its own works fine, boiler fires no problem and it works as it should. It only seems to be when CH only is selected. I can hear the boiler clicking on and off trying to start so I think it communicates with the room stat, goes to start and then the mid position actuator doesn’t move as it should. Does this sound the likely issue to you because if it was the brass valve then the hot water wouldn’t work either? Thanks.
I also have a ender 5+, glad i found this. I also had the cr touch issue with the wires being crossed. But I have 2 additional fans it looks like? Black and red wires one running to the case fan and the other is a fan by the extruder. But i still have the yellow/blue wire fan. Any chance you can shed some light on how to deal with this? Can i make a 2 to 1 connection for a fan port? Edit: i missed you plugged it into the board power bar thing But which fan is stripped and put into the board by the power connections? Does it make sense to put the case fan into the power block and the extra one connected to the print head into the board? Editx2: you do mention its the fan for the hot end. So you dont want that variable? There is an extra spot on the board that can either be the case fan or that fan.
Great vid, albeit niche to us Beko tumble dryer owners! Has your dryer ever stop randomly (can be 2 seconds or 20 minutes into the cycle - is totally random)? I have the same Beko DCU8230 and it has had this random stoppage behaviour since new many years ago. Googling about seems to suggest that it is a PCB issue. Just wondering if you have any insight or similar experience.
I remember there was a safety recall regarding the PCB with a certain batch of this dryer, not sure if its related to your issues. Either way would be hard to diagnose if random
I'm going mad - I am trying to use this software for the first time in years in windows, updated everything, device shows in device manager as a com port, but no com ports (even my other devices) show in the eb software. Been trying to run as admin but no dice.
I think it needs to be setup as COM1 - 4 for the software to pick it up. You could try reassigning the port number in device manager. You might also want to try running the software in compatabilty mode like Win 7 etc
The same speaker just died in my system, without this video I would not probably get anywhere, so this video is gold for me now when trying to repair. But I must say that Samsung should get a big middle finger up for the freaking glue stuff. I have to get some more isoprop. tomorrow so I can get the last 2 parts open and get to the electronic components. I'm not great with electronic so I may just order double of everything you mention here, and call on some friends I know is skilled repairing electric stuff :)
