LOL. You put batteries of 4x the capacity of your original one into your RV and got 4x the capacity...and this is worth making a video about? I have a video of buying 4x as many pies and having quadrupled my pie supply.... but no one watches it :(
Great video, Thank You, you really want to connect to the outside battery terminals, not the inside ones, this makes sure the current is equally distributed across both batteries
Seeing your video has helped my wife and i with our decision with camper choice we are working at buying a 25 wolf pup jw. 7 months later, have you had any issues with the camper to this point?
My camper didn’t have the auto battery type detection, so I had to flip a switch on the converter circuit board. Just thought I’d mention this. Great video.
Yes. We had to get a different converter when we converted our RV to lithium. Without it, our generator would only throw 8 amps at them. I am no electrician and will probably get the numbers wrong but, it now puts in something like 60+ amps (they are rated to take something like 50 amps each).
I have the same setup on my Wolf Pup but the Maxxair covers I have found at Amazon / Ebay do not have the clip set up. Do you have a model number or link to where you bought yours. Thanks
Not exactly. We usually have electrical sites, but we have a small 100 watt solar system that keeps things sort of going. I also bought a new truck that has a generator built into it so I may have to use that at some point. The problem I found with generators now is a lot of campgrounds don't seem to allow them. Makes things really tricky
@@cbuth387 you got a really nice deal for all the options. The only thing I don’t like about the Murphy bed is I have to crawl over my wife to get out of it.
We drive a chevy tahoe and pull a 19.5 ft trailer withouta sway bar, our hitch is what is needed per a friend who camps and has pulled his camper alot and said dont drive over 60 mileswhen pulling
Last spring we bought a new 2022 Wolf Pup 16 FQBL, which did not come with the Lippert ladder receiver. Like you, I bought a telescoping ladder to access the roof. Be aware that if you upgrade your solar, the existing wiring may not handle the increased power. I removed the included 50 W panel and replaced it with a Renogy 400 W kit. It melted the wiring and I had to reroute with better wire. I also added four Redodo mini 100 ah batteries and a Renogy 3000W inverter. With this set-up I can run my A/C on low for short periods. Being a "covid build", I was disappointed with the fit and finish of their work and shocked by the lack of cleaning of wood scraps and sawdust behind the panels. Will never own another Forest River product. Good luck with yours.
Thanks for the tips. I'll keep the wiring in mind when I do some upgrades. Only time will tell with the overall quality but it does seem kinda the same. Plenty of saw dust and wood splints. Yesterday my finger actually found a nail that was sticking through some wood so that was fun.
I just bought a trailer and GiantRV wouldn't let me take the trailer even tho I had hitch and ball, they said they demand using a distribution hitch, that they could provide, but they didn't even have any in stock... which is stupid for them to say it's the law when it isn't...I told then the only law that goes with trailers is that you need a brake controller for trailers weighing over 2500 lbs... they were like oh well that's our policy...I was told them i wasn't gonna to buy it and got my own elsewhere ... shady shit
The place I just bought mine did similar thing. I needed a capable truck and brake controller but I couldn’t install my WDH brackets to install my bars on site.
You will find that most camper dealers have a bunch of really good used sway control hitches but their liability insurance will not allow them to sell used hitches. So new is their only option.
Our used 22ft camper included the hitch and swaybar set up identical to yours. I noticed halfway home, the angle on the ball was incorrect. I had measured their truck hight compaired to ours and they were the same. Apparently, someone had set the hitch incorrectly. You need to re- adjust the setup to match your hitch hight so weight distribution is correct. The best thing to do is read the hitch manual located on line and/ or watch a few set up videos. 90% of anyone owning a used camper doesn't set the hitch up correctly.
After purchasing a Wolf Pup 16 FQBL, I bought a used F150. The guy also sold me his Anderson hitch for $100. $100 well spent, it keeps the Pup steady on the road under all conditions.
I don't understand all of the idiots out there that don't want to invest in a good quality hitch. You have tens of thousands invested in your tow rig, just as much invested in your trailer. And yet the single most important piece of the equation for SAFETY and towing comfort is a good sway control / Equalizer hitch. And you bawk at a few hundred bucks. It's very obvious that you really don't care about the safety of your passengers or the safety of others traveling the same roads as you. Please save ALL of your money and DON"T buy a RV. The world would be better off with you off the roads.
I’ve had a weight distribution hitch for 7 years, and it’s pulled a 7000 pound trailer for more than 50,000 miles, and still in perfect working condition. It takes a lot to wear them out. A used hitch is perfectly fine, as long as you inspect the welds, the sway bars are straight, and it’s sized appropriately to its intended purpose. The dealerships( “stealerships”), are in it to get every penny they can. Using the logic of “always buy a new hitch”, is like using the logic of “always buy a new trailer and truck”.
Me and the wife are looking at buying this exact model? Any buyers remorse or uh-ohs we should know before we do? We've never had a travel trailer and it's a whole new workd to us so any insight would be appreciated
It's actually our first camper as well. We weighed it heavily against the Coleman rubicon 1708bh. We think we got a pretty good deal on this model and it's the one we liked the most but it does have a few minor things we don't like. Nothing that we regret though. For it's size it packs a serious punch.
Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH), Air Bags & 10-ply tires and F-150s tow great! Th 5.0 holds up better than the ECOs as they develop hose leaks on the turbos and snap exhaust manifold bolts...
Everyone I know that has the ECOs has had issues at 80K. 5.0s are bulletproof. Mine has 130,000 with no issues. Always buy displacement for towing. BTW - they get the almost the same mileage (5.0=15mpg & ECO=16) but the ECO requires Premium where the 5.0 Regular. There just isn't any good reason for the ECO.
@@tomahawksteak6672 100% of the folks I know that had over 80K sold them due to the high repair costs. Do some research, you just might retract your BS statement...
