Got one off Amazon today, needed it to help with a troublesome motorcycle tire. Mine must’ve been an upgrade model. Only part I needed to attach was the black part and the gauge reads in psi. Maybe not the best thing out there but good enough for what I will need to do with it.
I am looking at getting one for my '72 Ambassador with the 2100 carb. I don't want to spend spend any more money on the 2 barrel system while searching for a 4 barrel intake.
I’m about to tackle the project myself for my food trailer converting from those mechanical brakes style to a electronic system. I would love to message to see if you can help me out, man!
Autolite carb jets are different from Holley jets (the Holley jets won't thread in). You can get Autolite jets from Mike's Carburetors, along with a brass float and other carb parts/kits).
Just put one of these on a 400 in my 71 galaxie 500 2drHT, its overflowing pretty bad. Motor only has 17k on it and before it started overflowing it seemed to be running great
I just got one of these on eBay and the one I got is of better quality. Gauge is in psi. Came mostly assembled. Sticker makes sense. I’m having trouble making it work on riding mower sized tires. Keeps blasting them across my yard. I’ll get the hang of it one day. Just subscribed!
I recently used the same product to get the the seats started on Bridgestone Pillow Diameter tractor tires which are a ROYAL PAIN IN arse . Worked just like you showed.
Yep... Controversy! I love the dual shocks! Added them to my 1979 Bronco back in the early 90's and never looked back! Back then I built a good strong 460, so my engine was heavier. I love a good stiff ride and it does handle better! I also love the steering stabilizer! It absolutely helps! With that said I still learned a few things watching your episode, never knew that about the door seals! way to go Jr., keep up the good work!
Hi I have questions I did exactly like this but when I connected the wire from the brake, 1 is ground, the other one I connected to the red color in the junction box but every time when I make the left signal automatically the brake activated only on left turn signal and I changed the position and the brake not working just only work when I connected to red color can you explain why is that problem or any idea to fix the issue Other than that the lights work perfectly
Sorry to pop your bubble but all of the gripes you have about your truck come with the territory of owning an old truck. If you want turnkey ready, go, buy a new truck. After growing up in a body shop building and restoring classic cars, I have come to the conclusion that they should have a $100 bill slot on the dash. Every time you start it up, it needs $100 for something!! Nowadays with inflation, that's $250.
Hey, just found your channel. I have a 1980 302 with a C6 transmission. It shifts ok. I have added 3 packs of instant shudder fix and the tranny still shudders...in park, in neutral, in drive...at certain rpms. At some rpms it doesn't shudder. Do you think it could be the flex plate or torque converter...or something internal? I can remove the tranny and replace those two things, but hate to go through the headache and find out it is internal. I have read that sometimes when matching up tranny's and engines the wrong flex plate could be used and that would cause a vibration. I bought this used of course and the engine and trans are both transplants and I don't know any history. Thanks
I think shudder fix is more for a modern torque converter with “lock up” clutches in tc. I think you’d be better off with a different product. I’d try Lucas trans additives. These transmissions are much more primitive and easier to work with.
You just made me changed my mind from using the 5-pin to the 7-pin plug. Thanks for putting up the time to create this informative video, I really like it.
Which time knew what those two pieces of metal with the screws hanging out of them was for am I supposed to hang something on them or throw them away? Any help would be appreciated..
I put one on a 79 351m. Idled great. Ran like crap. Found it has 48 jets. My original carb has 54. Can't swap them because the threads are different. Thanks, China. Can't find 54 jets in 5/16-24 thread. Had to leave it alone. The biggest problem though was that float setting was WAAAAY low. Super low. I bent it up to roughly match the setting on the original and it runs fairly well. Still not right but driveable. I would NOT buy one of these again. Re-jetting is impossible.
90% of the stuff you're complaining about is expectations, you act like you expect it to drive like a new car. It's not going to drive like a new car it's an old truck. While the add-on power steering system that they used on the 4x4 is up until 77 1/2 did suck just about everything else you've complained about is almost irrelevant. And as far as the hood hinges go your hood hinges are not adjusted correctly. It is a rather painstaking task to get them adjusted properly but that's all that needs to be done. Raising up the radiator support to raise up the front clip won't line up the rear with the cab it'll just make the whole hood sit up too high, loosen all three bolts on the side of the hinge and bring the whole thing down until the hood closes correctly when you shut it.
@@Notafordguythat’s pretty impressive for a 5 gallon. Honestly…I regret buying the 10 gallon because it’s too big but I only paid like $75…so I thought for a few more bucks I would get the biggest one. The sweet spot would be the 7.5 gallon.
🎉🎉❤❤ love your Bronco videos, me n my wife here in Kansas, have a 78 n hers 79, on your Bronco what ,wheel spacer Ford 5 on 5 log to Chevy 8 lug conversion. did you use.?? JASON, WICHITA, KS
Just wired up my 28 foot sxs trailer. I used 2 junction boxes. One up front and one in the back.. tied all the rear lights in the rear box them ran main wires up to the front box. Front box I ran my electric brakes and my front 4 amber lights and breakaway into it.
Have had my fair share of old fords. If its got close to 100,000 miles, a new timing chain and gearset will generally make them more happy also. Double roller more better. Not hard to install at all. Stock they have nylon gears, no bueno
I’d start with making sure the lower butterfly’s are closed completely, make sure there are no leaks in the base gasket, ensure your fuel pump isn’t over pressurized the carb spilling fuel over, check float height. Another good tip would be to take the carb off and make sure everything is tight. If something is loose fuel can bleed past and make it rev up. Let me know if you need more help. Thanks for watching.
THREE POINTS: 1. Actually, $10,000 is a good and fair price for the F150 you purchased. The 1973 - 1979 Ford "Dent Side" trucks including the second generation 1978 - 1979 Broncos sell for $40,000 - $65,000 plus in very good to excellent condition at all of the popular online sources. 2. @ 4:54 - Those appear to be Rancho (not Ranchero) 5000 series shocks. Definitely do not appear to be the Rancho 9000 series (I've had Rancho 9000 shocks)...don't see the small red adjustment knob. Furthermore, virtually all OEM shocks are junk compared to aftermarket shocks with one notable exception on new GM trucks...the Multimatic DSSV shocks (aka - dampers). However, for a long list of reasons, I would not own a Chevrolet or GMC 4WD truck newer than 1972. Not a fan of GM "Square Body" trucks and starting in 1988, GM went with IFS Axle and "low hanging" frame rails...not good on a Class 2 (2500) or Class 3 (3500) 4WD truck. IFS Axle is not as strong and trouble free as a Dana 60 Solid Front Axle...and low hanging frame rails greatly reduce the "Breakover Angle" which can and does cause the Chevrolet and GMC 4WD trucks to "high center" a small rounded knolls off-road...quite a sight to see....both hilarious and pathetic at the same time! 3. Parts Replacement comes with buying older trucks. It is hardly ever one part that fixes a particular problem on 40 to 60 year old trucks. It costs money to fix these trucks up correctly.....using NEW OEM parts in combination with some better quality aftermarket parts. LMC Truck out of Kansas City MO (Go Chiefs...ha!) is an excellent source for original OEM parts.
Built mine out of a 20 lb propane tank and 3/4 valve and pipe with a Fill coupler on a 1/4 line reduced from a 3/4 T in front of the valve. Works great. My RU-vid channel.
It was supposed to have great paint and they told me I could drive it home from Arizona to Wisconsin! Obviously I got the short end of that deal but the truck serves its purpose and I can get enough of it.
@@NotafordguyYeah, you got taken. I'm from Arizona and these trucks in that shape routinely fetch sub-$7K. If it had new paint, then I could see $8-10K running or not. Rebuilding old Iron like that is pretty cheap. I did my 460 for about $1,000. Paint, body, and frame is what brings the value up. Rare options help, depending on which ones you have. Interiors are simple with repro parts like dash pad, carpet, panels and seat upholstery totaling less than $1,500 if you look in the right places. I can say that confidently since I live below the rust belt and things last forever here. Especially if garage kept away from the sun. So, needless to say, there's an abundance of old iron running around here. especially in our smaller towns. So, if you went to Phoenix or Tucson, I can understand how that happened.
Good video man, I have a 10" lifted lb7 I'm a fabricator and was just going to make one but when i drew it all up and priced the metal it was already $300 plus my labor so i been looking at getting one of these and making it better. I think i might chance it and get one of these at only $150
Glad you got her fixed up. With the damaged lifters... does the camshaft get worn out too or is the failure point the lifters (softer metal), sorry for dumb question. I have a 78 Bronco project with a 400 and if I ever get time to work on it and find similar issues, should I replace the camshaft also? Can you do a detailed video of this if you change yours? I have so many requests for videos from my battery not charging to if I should rebuild the 2150 or just upgrade the intake/carb as you have done, but I haven't even check for good compression even though it seems to run fine, but can't drive it, one of the air/mix screws is seized, no brake lights either. The Bronco lifts up in the rear also when put in drive. I could go on and on, so I better quit, lol Thanks for all your vids on the Bronco, I learn something every time.
You can easily damage the cam if you drive with it ticking but fortunately I drove it straight home. Iv learned zinc additives are a must with the modern oils. I’ll make a “how to go through an engine without tear down” video soon.
