Great video. There is a huge lack of info on removing that nose cone. The earlier Spyders do not have the two bolts holding it on at the top. So I'm understanding correctly, to get at those 2 nose cone bolts I need to remove the top piece that the windshield bolts too? Thanks...
Hi I have 09 1800 intruder 8,000 miles on it,bit concerned about the heavy clunk when putting into first gear it always done it from I got it.Have no issues with gears r clutch have check drive shaft all good if you put it in n e gear can rock the wheel about 2 inch you can hear the clunk inside engine put you in mine key way worn r clutch springs slack,your advice would be much appreciated thanks William
Thank you SO SO SO much for doing this video. My 109 is gonna need a new engine it looks like and this will be enormously helpful. Where did you get your replacement engine?
I put one on my 2021 street bob and it transformed the braking system. I used stock Harley pads and it's the best upgrade I have ever made on a bike. 10 stars!
i will be going over to new pads at the same time .... i just sent for one, both my 11.5" rotor and the pads need a change out anyway. no bike lift, but so glad i have an overhead chain hoist ... i just use a chunk of my old 8,000 pound tensile climbing rope and the chain hoist ... no worry of it falling off the jack.
Can I get to my transmission without dropping the whole motor out of the bike? I know the clutch can be changed but what about the shifting forks and gears?
Not sure if you got your answer yet but I got the answer. I emailed them and ask the answer I got was that Harley changed the caliper and the mounting holes on the fork lower. So the adapter bracket that make to raise the caliper up the fork leg will not work on the earlier sportsters. Right now I'm looking into seeing if I can swap out the fork lower from an 06 and a caliper from an 06. That seems to be the only way to go unless you fab your own adapter bracket which in sure could be done
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling sound comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
In reference to the second gear issue, I see what happens, the damage and potential damage… but I dont see WHY it happens… and more specifically, what is done to fix it? I am interested in getting an M109r and am able to do a rebuild on my own… I just need the info on why it happens and how to fix it. I cant imagine that second gear just pops back into the fork on its own. Are the dogs made incorrectly? Is the shift fork too wide or positioned incorrectly on the shift fork shaft?
In a nutshell it is insufficient oil to the clutch causing clunky gear change coupled with a hugely powerful engine that means something has to give. That is usually the gear engagement cutouts and selector forks. More oil at the clutch reduces the clunky gear change and it doesn’t happen again. I am still running the first engine I modified and don’t expect I will need my spare engine I have also modified.
if the transmission went into multiple gears wouldn't it lockup causing the wheel to lock and the bike to crash, or do the teeth always shear off before that can happen
On a smaller and lighter bike yes but this is a heavy bike and has a big fat rear tyre with heaps of traction. The bike I am repairing in the video did lock up but only after gears had broken and jammed up the other gears. The engine is just too big and powerful for the gearbox. I have heard of this happening at slow speed and the box locked up without shearing the gears but that poor bloke was on a roundabout in the rain so slow speed and reduced traction.
OK, let me get this straight. Harley, a premium brand, a company that charges a lot for their bikes and so proud of their quality is using bullshit brakes like this? They expect a 600lb bike plus the rider going 75-80mph to stop with a tiny single rotor and a single piston caliper? Have they seen what the European and Japanese companies use on their bikes? It cannot be more expensive than a couple of hundred dollars to use proper brakes, it's a safety item after all. No wonder why their sales figures are floating in a toilet bowl. Excellent video by the way, my criticism is on Harley, not your work and quality of video.
Sometimes people really show how little they understand. You do realize that other companies do this too right? Infact the BMW R18 stops worse than a Softail Slim and the Slim has 1 brake rotor, and the R18 has 2 up front. You realy need to learn what you're talking about.
@@FranBunnyFFXII I think that I do know. Rider for 35 years, owner of 4 Italian bikes, A BMW and KTM, Certified Mercedes tech and engineer. The argument here is.....when you have a 600lb plus motorcycle plus rider and passenger brakes are important. Why save $100 manufacturer's cost on brakes and com[promise safety? Better yet, Harley has been known to have poor brakes throughout history, however, they are getting better. What's their excuse? European bikes always used excellent brakes. Japanese are excellent, too. Harley on the other hand....they're beating their own drum making poor decisions and losing many of customers. Their sales figures are evidence of this. They are quality motorcycles, no doubt, but you can't spend $3k painting a fuel tank and $200 on the brakes. When you charge $10k to $35k for a motorcycle there's plenty of meat on the bone to address safety. Oh, as far as your keyboard warrior rudeness goes....maybe your low IQ has something to do with it.
@@tedmarakas2626 uhuh, sure. Btw I was IQ tested when I was 20 and scored 143. So, probably not a good idea to assume people's IQ Cause now you got egg on your face.
You should have used straps. We used them on our hoist. They are rated 2500 lbs each. This looks complicated. I really like this bike but seen this makes me worried. I have a 2015 Gxsr750R I was hoping to trade for this. Due to the return being too low from the dealers, I will just keep it and hopefully tried to get this. I’ll just sell mine privately. Any advice. Iam trying to transition from sports to cruiser bikes.
I have a 2014 M109 B.O.S.S. (single owner, 18,000 miles). I shift gears up at 2,500 - 3,000 RPM. Is this a practice that will prevent the "second gear" problem? Thanks for the great videos; we need more.
I have this setup on my 06 Dyna and I gotta say, the braking performance is better than advertised. Very easy upgrade to do if you know how to wrench. Pro tip: install new brake pads while you have the caliper off.
Good day, my name is Alexey. I am from Kazakhstan, the city of Almaty. I have an M109r in stock. The other day, oil flowed from the gearbox oil seal. I removed the gearbox and found two problems. I cannot twist the washer that closes it, this is the first problem. The second problem was detected by the backlash and noise of the bearing which is located on the motor housing. I have two questions for you: How to unscrew the washer? How to remove the sprocket and bearing to replace the bearing. Is it possible to do this without disassembling the engine?
@@bradh3292 Thanks for the answer. As a result, I had to disassemble the entire engine, this is the first time in my life. To disassemble this is half the battle, but now I don't even know how to assemble it! You don't have a video of how to assemble it correctly in what order!
Can u use a 15” rotor with the speed merchant bracket and the gsxr600 tokico caliper ? That’s what’s on my bike now , it’s better than stock but still not the best. I want dual disc or the 15” rotor
Couple of things I found when rebuilding mine. You can get the cases apart if you cut down an alan key to remove the part that stops the cases coming apart and leave the flywheel/generator in place, or buy the correct puller. I ordered the puller but while it was in transit, I cut down an alan key and got the cases apart. The rod that holds the fork gets bent ever so slightly. Whilst this is hardly noticeable, it does make a difference to where the fork engages the dogs. I changed mine to a solid rather than hollow tube. Going to take a lot of force to bend the solid bar. The dogs that engage 3rd gear are back cut from the factory. As I wanted to make sure I didn't have to go inside again, I had the dogs for 2nd gear back cut. Replaced all the forks with stronger items too. I think a lot of the stronger parts come the support that the Busa gearbox gets as that bike gets seriously abused in drag racing. Some 30K miles since the rebuild and not only does the gearbox still work, it works better now than it ever did from the factory. Never had any clutch judder and bike is currently on 67K miles. It's a 2013 bike so maybe Suzuki changed something? Love the bike but Suzuki, what went wrong with 2nd gear?
не так страшен как малюют . ну да шестеренок дохера , но зато электрики мало . ну не харли конечно , но соотносимо с хондой втх . минус один шестерни если полетят встанут в копейку. (хотя это маловероятно) nice job mexanicum respekto !
8:58 first time I see someone, who tightening bolts like this. You should gradually pre tightening all bolts, one against another. And then with same order tighten them with torque wrench. no offence NOT!
Ha Ha. Non taken. The clicking is the torque wrench (if you used one once in a while you might know). I would encourage you to make videos (the ONE pirate music video on your channel doesn't really count!). That way you may help other people rather than being an armchair critic, lots of them around and they help no one. Be safe and good luck with your future videos. Takes time and effort with no reward but you will feel better knowing you tried to help. Or just remain a critic. Your choice.
@@briandouglas1401 Thank you for good words! BTW, for rear wheel it's PERFORMANCE MACHINE ROTOR 11.5 CLSC 5 SPK S R #0131-1586 with the same design. So if someone wants both rotors in same design, that's the way to go. I ordered the one for myself. Haven't received the package yet. But it on the way.
Très intéressant et instructif ce tuto. Je vois que point de vu conception c'est du sérieux ce moteur (aucune courroie) mais qu'est ce qu'il s'est donc passé pour que cette boite de vitesse ait autant morflée ? serait -ce dû au gicleur qui était bouché ? (impressionnant cette fourchette cassée ainsi que ces dent d'engrenages) Ce "bouilleur" est relativement simple à démonter. Thank you Brian, friendship from France !
Hey how you doing I was trying to see where you located at I have an M109 and I have the same problem trying to see how much you charge to fix that with the second gear doing the same thing
Be interesting to know what year this motor and others are that you have done and whether Suzuki modified it themselves in later engines, and how many km's before this shows as a problem.
Hi Brian! Right now I'm thinking about getting an m109r and doing some research about potential problems. Your video was very helpful. I have to warn you though. It seems like you are somewhat mistaken about the gearbox lubrication system. The countershaft and driveshaft are not used as oil passages. They are lubricated through two separate jets and the oil channels lead to their needle bearing sides - the left one on the countershaft and the right one on the driveshaft. After that the oil just splashes around and drips down to the oil pan. At 50:40 you can see where the second channel starts and passes in the roller bearing seat to the driveshaft. The oil jet modification you have done allows more oil to pass to the countershaft and clutch but not the driveshaft. Although it may be that the cams on 2nd and 3rd driven gears will be lubricated better anyway - with the oil splatter from the countershaft. I wonder if all those problems happen with the unmodified clutch pull pin.
How do you know the cam, piston wrist pen and crank still get sufficient oil flow? how about thinner oil, better oil pump or different pressure control valve? Do you know if 2019/ 2020 models have made changes to improve this?
