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I recently, (couple weeks back) bought a pair of 6 ton hydraulic crimpers and used them for the first time to terminate a set of battery cables for my wife's Camero. I was very impressed with how precise and fast it worked. I agree, was well worth the purchase.
Just curious, did the study say how many ohms difference in the two types of termination? Only reason I ask, is the value negligible or significant. Also, what is the resistance between the battery terminal and the clamp itself? That will always vary, every time its connected to the battery terminal. If that resistance exceeds the resistance of the lug termination, does it necessarily matter? I'm entirely open to evidence that would change how I terminate cables. I can say that one of the reasons I prefer a crimp is it provides a mechanical connection. I've witnessed soldered connections that separate from the lug. Hence the reason I prefer a crimped connection. I supposed a person could crimp then solder, but I would not eliminate the mechanical bond.
I just looked up a 2024 Toyota Tundra TRD Pro on the Toyota website. Base built TRD Pro is $73,980. You said it was a steal at only $15K over MSRP. That would make it $88,980. I paid $83,077.83 to drive my 392 Wrangler off the lot. There's no way I could have had a 392 Wrangler built for me by an aftermarket shop like America's Most Wanted for that amount. There's absolutely no way it would come with a factory warranty either. So... I guess I feel like I did alright. The warranty issues were covered 100%, and I was extremely well cared for by the dealership and by Jeep. I have zero complaints after everything was all said and done. I drive the 392 daily and would not have it any other way. I love my Jeep!
The i-FORCE MAX V6 is 437 horsepower with 583 lb.-ft. of torque with twin turbos. I'm 470 horsepower and 470 lb.-ft. torque naturally aspirated. I'll run cooler and have much less to worry about concerning induction and exhaust. If I crammed a ProCharger for 6.4L Hemi under the hood I'd be at 670+ horsepower and 695+ lb.-ft. of torque.
Here’s a joke, this guy goes to a nightclub but the bouncer says he has to wear a tie, so he goes back to the ute and pulls out these jumper cables and ties them around his neck. The bouncer says he can go in but don’t start anything.
I have a fun problem… I have a ‘92 4runner. Battery reads 12.4V but I have no lights, no power whatsoever… When I turn the ignition absolutely nothing as if the battery is fully dead. Got to work in the morning, wouldn’t start end of day (came back in the evening with a jumper box and found the battery was 12.4v so needless to say battery isn’t an issue)
@@Killthebatsman I'm not a huge Toyota expert, but I'd start with how clean the battery terminals are. How your main cables terminate, is the ground good to the engine and the chassis. Does the main power supply wire have something like a fusible link that's blown. Check all fuses and relays. Get a test light or a logic probe and see what's hot and what's not. In general check the condition of wiring harnesses. Look for damage, burned wires, shorts, etc... Check power at the key switch, see if there is battery power coming into it, and back track to find the fault if there isn't. Basically, systematically eliminate known good wiring from potential bad wiring. It's not necessarily fun or easy, it's certainly time consuming. Keep track of the things you've proven to be in good condition and keep chasing until you find the issue. Start at the battery and work your way out from there. Take your time, try not to become frustrated, take plenty of notes. Once you find potential issues, repair as required and continue on. If you're in over your head, admit it and take it to a qualified mechanic.
That would be correct. So, I identified a work around. I've learned since, that this is a common and repeatable failure. Because none of them indicated an actual solution to the original problem, many other people chose the same solution. At the end of the day, it worked and that's all that mattered to us.
Very well done! Thank you. I've started making the under hood part full length, and then making a set of clamps with maybe 24" of wire and storing them in the back of the vehicle. All of my sawmill equipment is set up with Anderson connectors now.
It's a Chrysler thing, I think. My Ram had all sorts of broken wires in the door harness. So at least I didn't have to replace all the speakers, like I thought I did.
That cable started out life as a Midland - MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable with NMO Connector amzn.to/3Wl1RTW Then I chopped the NMO mount end off and terminated it with RFIOTASY Pack of 5 UHF PL-259 PL259 Male-Plug Crimp Coax Connector Adapter RF Connector for RG58/U LMR195 Coax Cable Compatible with Ham Radio (UHF Male Crimp RG58) amzn.to/3QuHvDR Using these crimpers Signstek Coax RF Connector Crimping Tool for RG-58, 59, 62, 8x, 141, 142, LMR195, 200, 240 amzn.to/4a6atB3 And soldered the center conductor with Merece Soldering Station, 65W Digital Soldering Iron Kit 176℉-896℉ Adjustable Temperature (C/F), Standby & Sleep, Temperature Lock, 5 Solder Tips, Tip Cleaner, Solder Wire, Sucker - Fast Heating Up amzn.to/4dnrUQi And sealed it with Wirefy Heat Shrink Tubing Kit - 3:1 Ratio Adhesive Lined, a resistant Shrink Wrap - Industrial Heat-Shrink Tubing - Black - 180 PCS amzn.to/44uyfW7 This is the NMO mount I used to attach the antenna on the top and the PL-259 connector on the bottom 1 Thick NMO Mount to Short Type 1" SO-239 Adapter PBH Packing amzn.to/3wilAce Hope that helps.
This is the wire we used. 4 Gauge Wire (25ft Each - Red/Black) Copper Clad Aluminum CCA - Primary Automotive Wire, Car Amplifier Power & Ground Cable, 20PCS Lugs Terminal Connectors,20PCS 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing amzn.to/3wmHzyL Hope that helps.
The installation instructions specifically stated to not use it. The thickness of the cast cover plus the factory gasket are too thick for the provided hardware. That and I think that if yah smack the cast cover on a rock, a person would want it as close contact to the differential housing as possible. Better load transfer, less likely to slip around. I think the gasket could allow for that.
@@mgkeleher definitely use the Reinzosil gasket maker and new bolts that comes with the diff cover. We drove from Washington to Utah the next day. Zero issues, it's been sealed perfectly since installation.
I have the GoPro Hero 7 Black, and it overheats also. When I run it as a dash cam to record trails, I have to take the battery out and run it off of USB to keep it from overheating. Nice light set-up!
so what your saying is what your buying for 40 grand or you think your buying really cost 90 grand so what the daler is saying is that for 40 or 50 you can get the cheap crap that breaks or you can spend 90 most people dont even have that is there retirement , and you will get the real deal well hurray for that and you still had to bring it pick it up wait for it like the cheap deal
It's not exactly how I'd describe my experience. I will say I have worked my ass off, my entire life. I never had anything given to me that I didn't earn. I was/am fortunate to know some good people, made the best of opportunities that were presented and am I blessed that things have worked out and to be where I am today. With those blessings came the ability to acquire the most fun and exhilarating vehicle I've ever owned. Was/is it expensive? By today's standards, you could easily say yes. Know that I've sacrificed other things that many other people consider to be necessities in order to have the things that I have. I continue to throw money at the 392. Is it a sound investment? Maybe, maybe not. I could have an accident and lose it all tomorrow. I don't feel like I'm flaunting anything. I've been through a world of shit in my life. I've experienced loss, injury and pain. I feel that there is balance in the universe. Beyond my wife and my children, that are blessings themselves, the 392 is my reward for all the rest of the crap that I've been through.
