Flying better as an 80. When you converted it to a 90 fan and you ported out the foam did you increase the input air and smooth out the air intakes to match the increased fan diameter. When you ported out the exit did you create an exit tube to match the 90mm dia and adjust the final exit point diameter upwards to suit. If you did not increase both the input air and final output air diameters and smooth both of these into and out of the fan then you would most likely have overworked the motor and esc by air starving the fan not allowing enough air to feed the fan or to leave the fan smoothly through the narrow exit hole thus overheating the esc. ( it s a bit like when you crash land a prop plane in the long grass when if you do not hit throttle cut the motor wants to keep turning the prop, the prop cannot turn, esc keeps feeding in the power, esc catches fire and the model burns !!. ) With the edf the fan keeps turning but esc temp cut out may just keep it pulsing in and out. Did you do the maths for input air dia and cross sectional area and exit dia for both 80 and 90 dia fans and adjust. Even if you did the maths it is not always that simple either as you are pretty much stuck with the frontal air intake of the 80mm F16 so you would probably have to get more input area from the cheater holes, preferably as close as possible towards the nose to allow smooth airflow for top end speed as the air approaches the fan. You can check the fan input and exit area of the original 80mm fan setup work out the percentage of input dia to final exit dia ( say it was maybe 86%) then apply that percentage to the 90mm fan to get you pretty close to where you need to be. You can also work out the input area of the holes to the 80mm fan and increase these in proportion to the 90mm fan to get you somewhere near where you need to be . What would be difficult /impossible to alter is the length of the input and exit tube of the model. Looking at the tailpipe on the video I doubt you adjusted the final exit diameter and then reset it from the 80 to 90 to 80? The airframe of the F16 90mm is bigger in all respects to the 80 for lots of reasons so I suppose some things are perhaps best left alone 🤔
@@paulrkytek6587The video doesn’t show everything I did to the plane after. I did amp draw tests as well. And then I did additional porting that isn’t shown in the video and I also had a cut a lot of cheaters into the fuse. That’s what I think made the plane fly like crap. I think I may have weaken the fuse and it was flexing and flight. It was fast as hell, but it just flew poorly but none of that matters right now because I’ve got the free wing F-16 90. I would’ve liked to have kept working on it, but it just got to be too much of a project.
That's the only thing bad about safe. Want hardly get out of a stall or when you need all the throws you can get. Nice repair job. Great flight, nice landings
@@smokeymountainrctravisThompson Thanks! I lost the Old Crow P-51 Mustang by getting into a stall and then putting it in safe thinking it would get me out of it lol. I hope I learned my lesson.
@JetGuyProductions yep I did thing when I first started flying. I set all my bank angles to highest I can. It's usually like 75 or 80. But that does help some
Ruined 😂!!! As someone who flies all year long including in the rain 🌧️ that’s hoggwash! Check out my ec1500 short flying in an actual thunder storm. What I can say is your transmitter and receiver hate water and will let you know if they get wet inside! My 64 f14 crashed right into a deep bird pond at the end of our runway on a shallow approach and after drying out the electronics everything worked again after about a day of drying out 😂. Although I fly cheaper planes in the rain just keep heat on in the car in the way home lol Just my 2pennies
@@Hype_RC I didn’t think it would bother it. But a few people we’re pretty sure it would damage the plane or ruin it. I’m glad to hear that you haven’t had any problems with your planes getting wet.
Viewers: If you are using the Benchcraft 2 to 1 EC5 series adapter MotionRC sells on an 8S 90mm EDF, throw that thing away and buy a Y harness series adapter made with wires LIKE THE ONE AT 2:50. Mine melted on 8S 90mm F-22 and caused total loss of power. Luckily I had a separate radio battery and BEC.
@@braddarnell2498 I’ve flown in the rain before and nothing happened, but it got really wet this time so we’ll see. I’m gonna try this weekend if the weather is good.
I wonder why you reduce the gain setting at 0 throttle and only maximized it a little later. I assume you would have a flat line from the left and curving down from there as you did after the highest point in your curve.
I thought about changing that. I don’t want to have as much gain at zero throttle because if I’m going really fast and I cut it down to zero I don’t want an oscillation. I hope that makes sense. If you have any ideas on that, I’d love to hear it. I’m not quite sure I’m doing the right thing.
@@Cakey831 I would use adjustable gains and put them on my right knob. I usually increase the value by 20 to 30 but you could start with standard values and then adjust them later. I prefer to use throttle-based gains. And I would use A S3 X plus. I have short videos on throttle-based gains and as3x plus. Two Brothers has videos on it as well, but his videos are like two hours long. If you have any questions ask and I can help you. But I probably won’t be able to reply until after 5 o’clock Eastern standard time.
maybe becaase switching on safe when inverted did the opposite-wont let you roll the right way.but then i think you shouldve done a neg g .but then you would be landing inverted.well better than a crash
You go up to maiden a new plane at your field and guess what the " Village Idiot " shows up asking a bunch of stupid questions ! We have a guy like that in our club. He's always telling people how to fly their planes. If you look at his planes it looks as if he towed them behind his car on a piece of rope !
@@victorrcjets7660 yeah it’s fine. It looked worse than what it really was. Concrete kind of forgiving that way. If it was grass, it would’ve grabbed the gear and probably ripped it out.
Well, I know there’s people out there like me that are probably wondering what happens if you fly an EDF in the rain? Now we know. Lol it seems fine now I want to see what happens in a week or two.
The F-22 70 mm is way lighter and easier to fly. The F-16 90 mm is way way heavier and eats up way more sky. Therefore it’s harder to fly. They both can do insane tricks and stuff but the F-22 70 mm is far more forgiving
Put your flaps on a mode switch. That way you can trim your elevator for each position and then set your elevator mix on a 2 second delay. Awesome flight.
No flaps that’s partly to blame for my bad landings… that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. Good luck today, let me know how it goes and what you think of it.
Why were you flying a Viper at 21.4 volts ? 😮. That is 3.5v per cell, which is basically a dead battery. sounds to me that you are blaming the radio equipment (gyro). But it seems more like pilot error for flying a plane with a dead battery, especially if you did not change the low-voltage cut off level of the ESC.
@@thelic4171 it always says like 21 V when I’m at full throttle. It was doing that again today. I don’t think that’s an accurate reading because of the draw on the battery. Anyway, I just repaired the plane. I bought a new fuse and nosecone for it. I’m gonna edit the videos I took today and put them out tomorrow probably.
@@JetGuyProductions It's likely not an accuracy issue. I agree opening the throttle will sag the battery but that's too much. You shouldn't be getting warnings on takeoff. That battery is likely one or more of the following: a) Too small (mAh) b) Too low of C rating c) Is old d) Is worn out e) Has been mistreated (over drawn/charged, left empty/fully charged for long periods, etc.) Whatever the case the chemical reaction producing the current isn't keeping up inside the battery. Any time this happens bad things are happening inside the pack. The chemical reaction is most stable around 3.8V, the longer and further you stray from this the more the internals of the battery break down. This includes leaving them above 3.8V for storage. Puffing is a result of the chemical's in the battery breaking down in a way they were not intended. If you see any puffing in the battery that means some of the current producing chemicals are not functioning any longer. I would consider checking the internal resistance of the pack and using some throttle management. Let the pack voltage recover after full throttle pulls so it's not operating outside its designed voltage. You could possibly be suffering a brownout of the receiver in addition to the thrust loss. Check your transmitter logs if you have them.
@@thelic4171Thanks. If you want.I will investigate further. I get the same warnings on new HRB 6S 5000 50C and an older spektrum 6S 7000 30C? I don’t have my warnings turned on any other planes, but I’m gonna have to look at how they behave as well and see if there’s a difference.
If you turn safe on you need to let go the sticks to let safe do its thing. Even with safe on the model still has to recover from a stall by gaining airspeed which it will only do with power added /height and time ? Not enough airspeed control surfaces cannot work whatever gyro you have ? It looks like you had the height you just did not let go of the sticks
@@paulrkytek6587 that’s kind of what I thought happened, but I really have no idea for sure. It’s repaired now. I just waiting for a nice day to get it out.
i think this one is good with 8s because of the weight. but not all 90mm"s are 8s compatible, at least for me. i think the lighter the plane, the better it is with a lighter flight pack, at least in my experience. but i will agree that this jet is a great argument for an 8 cell batt.
I didn’t know you could set that in a transmitter. I wouldn’t even know where to look to see what mine were set at. If I were to venture, I’d say 50 Hz but it is just a guess I have no idea.
Yep! Smoke probably right! After flying my eflite 80 and viper 90 I realized they’re not as quick as my 70mm jets. I decided then all my 90mm jets are gonna be 8cells! Besides I can use the packs for my other planes too lol
@@JetGuyProductions I’m sorry man. I’m sure someone will be more than willing to take it off your hands. I was looking at your vids have you tried the 80 fms BAE Hawk? It’s an amazingly small 80 with fantastic speed and slow speed stability. It’s definitely a reason that airframe was a trainer
I don’t use burners. I have a bunch and I had a bunch installed on planes and I just never turned them on so I ended up taking them out of all my planes just to save on weight not that they weigh that much. I’m dying to get my F22 out but it’s raining all weekend. I think I might get a break tomorrow so I’ll try it then. The 90 mm F 22 is my favorite to fly, hopefully this is close to that good.
