I have a Kentucky rifle with a maple stock that Dixie gun works estimated was made completly by hand barrel, stock, lock and all between 1830 to 1860. I appreciated the amount of work they put into it, but after watching you, i appreciate their work even more. Your work is outstanding.
Josh your videos are way more helpfull than you think. This is a very good video on proper striking and hammer placement to achieve the shape of a knife . Badass brother
@@oldironcabin3655 hell yeah brother. I love it. I also like hearing you explain the process too. Because you explain things very well and why you are doin them.
If y’all don’t care share these videos . Josh does amazing work and if we share these hopefully he will see how much we like them and he will do more builds. I know we all love his videos
I agreee Sharek. I love watching both of y’all’s videos. This is a new style for Josh. ASMR. I love it but I also like it when he explains what he is doin. He is very detail oriented and explains what and why he is doin what he is doin. Even though on this one he didn’t have to say a word. Kick ass.
"Whatever we do in life we have to start with a hole" Spot on advice, if the ramrod hole, which is mostly inviable, is drilled in first we can find it's location with probe holes, then lay out the other architecture from that location, everything on the rifle relates to the ramrod hole, so it is essentially the first thing we should do, but I have never heard of anyone else say that. Stay safe! Chris B.
Well this is a surprise! Seeing such excellent advice on youtube. If all builders watch this tutorial there would be far more properly built flintlocks out there, the only thing I would add is that it is far better to use a sooty lamp to find your touch down high spots, the blunty marker dries far too quickly in normal room temperatures, and using the soot lamp it is easy to re soot every time you fit up. I also find it easier to get a snug fit by filing a few degree draft on the inlet portion of the lock plate, it goes in and out much easier that way. I look forward to viewing more of your videos. Chris B.
Your videos on inletting the major parts are the best I've seen yet. Yours is probably the 15th set of vids I've watched on the subject. Ive read recreating the American longrifle a couple times also. You have filled in some of the missing bits of info and i really feel like i know enough to try my first stock from scratch. I appreciate the details you share and how you emphasize test, shave, test, shave over and over. I'm always amazed that nobody uses hand planes for roughing in the barrel. I have a stanley 45 and a wooden plow, maybe I'll try and find out why.
Beautiful job great lesson! Thank you very much for sharing your skills. Love the fact that you use the small little palm chisels. I wasted so much money on chisels bought a set of Palm chisels and couldn’t be happier. I forget the brand but they are made in Czechoslovakia fractions of the price of Pfiel work perfectly and take a very nice sharp edge.
Exceptional inletting work , The key is taking your time and not to rush your work because in the end it shows. It’s really hard some times to find small thin flat chisels. Usually wind up making what you need, just to spend a few hours watching your inlet techniques would be worth their wait in gold for the builder. Your work is top shelf.
I appreciate seeing all the hand done engraving all over this piece, especially the many different cuts made on the bowl ! Very authentic ! Well done !
Good shots of the brim of your hat. But then you high speed the actual inletting??? That's the step I actually needed to see. Sorry. Two out of five *'s.
It looks like an incannel (the type of bevel grind on the edge) gouge with a cranked neck. The cranked neck helps paring (slicing cut) along the surface without the handle getting in the way. Most gouges that you will find for sale, today, are outcannel gouges with the bevel on the “outside” of the blade. Pattern-makers had a diverse assortment of chisels and gouges to make a wood pattern of a part that would be used to make a sand mould. Cast steel would then be poured in the mould to make the metal part. Pattern makers used to use gouges like these. You could very likely use a more common outcannel gouge but you would need to change the angle in which you hold the tool to the wood; likely riding the bevel along the wood surface so that you make thin, paring cuts. I would probably take a card scraper with a radius that is close to the barrel’s radius and scrape out the final shape after roughing out the general dimensions with the gouge.
