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Hi Robert, I hope you are doing well. Can you please help choosing the right engine oil for my 2002 bmw 316 ti? Shouldit be 10w40? I livr in Maputo (Mozambique) where hot is extreme.
I have an N52 with a stubborn tick. Yes, it goes away after driving or revving for a while, but quickly would come back. I tried the LiquiMoly engine flush, which didn’t make any noticeable difference. On the latest oil change, I ran Seafoam in the oil for 60 miles before dropping the oil. The lifter tick is SIGNIFICANTLY improved. While it starts to come back after idling for a while, or on a cold start, it disappears quickly when driving. My occasional rough idle is also gone, the SF probably cleaned up the vanos solenoids and screens. I plan to repeat the SF treatment for the next oil change or two, and maybe try one of the zddp additives too. Also, I found 5W40 Castrol Euro seems to help as well, I have less lifter tick with that as compared to LiqiMoly Synthoil 0W40.
You should run sea foam in it for at least 300 miles then change the oil , it won’t hurt the engine and it will completely clean it up. Gives the sea foam more than enough time to react
My 2014 honda brio 1.2 comfort has a rough idle when the AC is engaged. Need advice pls. Kms is at 386k. Car drives open road daily. 238km daily round trip Mon to Sat. 22.8kms/l @ 100kms/hr With air con, gives 19.5l/km Above figures open road consumption
Ticking stops by just adding .5 to 1 liter more than what the car calls for if you completely drain the oil. Add what the car calls for, start it up, let it get to operating temp at idle and if it continues add the .5 to 1 liter. If you didn’t change the oil and want to try and fix ,just try adding the .5 to 1 liter and do the same. Should stop. Also May tick the day after you changed the oil because the oil drains down over night. If you put the amount the car calls for and it’s not ticking but ticks the next day. Again just add some more oil. If you don’t want it to tick right off the start, I’d say just add the extra oil before. Yes it may go away without adding oil by letting the car warm up and steadily reving at a low rpm to get oil where it needs to be
It definitely works, but yeah like you said, it sometimes takes longer. I did the 2 minutes on mine in the driveway then i took it for a 5 min drive in manual mode keeping it above 3,000 and even revving it out to 6, and it disappeared. Should to this once every few weeks if you drive the car for short trips.
*I did what you said in the video as I just had an oil change done and picked up my car from the mechanic and drove it home. As I commented below, I held it for not even a minute at 3000 rpm (in park) and as white smoke was pouring out the tailpipe, suddenly the dash warming bell went off and the "half engine" light came on so I shut it off. You should be putting a warning on your video. Who knows what kind of damage I just did after following this procedure!*
Your engine should not do that when revving at 3000rpm for one minute , something is wrong take it back to the mechanic ASAP!! That said I am only showing what I did according to information found and had success with it it's up to every individual if they want to try the same method or not. Seemingly It used to be a BMW procedure but they stopped it once the lifters or head was upgraded.
@@capespares8033 Thanks very much. I'm taking it this weekend to a new mechanic. And *you should be telling people in your video that this method was discontinued.*
@@gdhillon00 My engine blew after I made that last comment. The entire motor was toast. A few mechanics verified it. Get rid of it while you can, if you can not find the answer. I believe mine was from idling excessively often. (I'm in my car constantly, often idling, sometimes hours at a time.) First mechanic found metal shavings (?) in the oil. Had it towed to the next and he said the oil was trash. I'd kept up on all oil changes and it didn't matter. Took it to a 3rd mechanic and he said the same. "Engine is destroyed." I miss it every day. I loved that car.
@@alouise3557 Oh wow sorry to hear. Just abit strange mine only happens when I’m revving my engine in park for around 5mins or so. Drives fine otherwise just when I’m revving in park. I thought maybe it could be some rev safety feature that’s implemented to stop you from over revving your car?
My 323 has just hit 100000kms now. It’s been doing the ticking thing for some time. I’ve tried absolutely everything. Bmw oil and bmw filter, replacing solenoids semi helps. The problem is actually the cam boxes. Too expensive to have that done, so 5w40 seems to have worked.. but for how long??
Bleeding Procedure has been deleted by BMW as it is only a temporary fix and is responsible for killing the automatic transmission. Do not ever do it. A more suitable solution would be to use HyperLube Zinc Replacement Additive or Liqui Moly Lifter Additive. They work in 80% of cases for a N52 if lifters are not very worn out yet. Changing oil every 6000 Kms and going for continuous highway spirited drives (30 Minutes at least) helps tremendously.
@@ArmenSark there is a bmw bulletin for this issue. The NIC and lockup/slipping mechanism in ZF6hp has some design flaws. Revving the engine while in P or N can do shit to the TC and fuel pump bearing. Theoritically it s nonsense but beats me how that happens.
little update. i changed the oil last weekend to rowe 0w40 synth rs. because with the 5w30 ll04, he was tiking like every day no matter how long ive driven the day before. its gone for the most time. vew days ago i heard it one time but just like 1 second. recommend everyone changing to 0w40
the thing is this engine needs driving . pedal to the metal. mine does it too when i drive lots of short distances. every weekend i give it a rideout and its fine for me.. when i do the next oilchange. i will put 0w40 in. bmw longlife 01 and i will see if it does any difference.
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