What brand would you suggest for a stained glass window?! I used the 33 on the reg window but the next to reglaze is stained glass and the 33 says to not use on that.
I have reglazed over 300 windows with the house I live in having 252 panes of glass. I have broken at least 30 windows trying to remove the putty or glazing. . I tried a hair dryer and a drywall knife to shield the glass. They still break. I broke a piece of antique glass yesterday putting in a push point. They had a different tool a hundred years ago that shot the triangle push points in like the window you show. That probably would eliminate breakage if I had one. It is extremely frustrating seeing antique glass break. Be honest, how many pieces of glass have you broken using this method? The glass you are removing is obscure or privacy glass which shouldn't break as easily as thin wavy antique hand blown glass. I am trying to invent a rail system that would use a trim router to remove the glaze fast and safely. The Cobra speed heater is way overpriced and the average homeowner would not spend the money. They could normally buy new glass for every window for under $500. This house being an exception having so any panes of glass.
This is absolutely wrong on how to place the keep-I bought this exact set of sash locks, and installed them just how you said here, despite thinking, “that doesn’t seem right.” and of course the keep catches the bottom sash as I lift it, and now I have four incorrect holes to dowel and repaint, and incorrect hardware impressions in the new paint, and will have to put the locks off center on the sashes to get this fixed. I’ve been messing with these windows for months, and this last step…should have trusted my instincts, but forgot to check that the sash would clear the keep. Please fix that in the video to spare someone else this misery.
The first glaze!? Do I have to come back and sand it down? I used a little bit this morning thinking it's just like spackling. Some parts of the window are kinda beat up. They mainly just want me to make it look a little better. Without tearing everything apart
sarco oil based is excellent stuff the bucket I ordered arrived ok I did a couple windows with it,it then sat unused for a year,a hard crust formed abt a half inch when opened again for use,this I removed,the remainder ,80 percent of it was still uneven and a but dried out,I added some furniture lemon oil mixing the bucket with a qtr in beater with the drill until it got restored to the right consistency
We love using Sarco. In between uses you can cover the top with water, this will keep the glazing putty moist without absorbing into the oil-based putty.
Great info, thanks for doing this. I'm aspiring to switch careers to window restoration and some of this is gold... Specifically the idea of using storm windows/rot repair/exterior painting vs full on restoration. I live in Jacksonville, FL, would the idea of storm windows still apply to this area vs something like screens? Our weather is slightly more hot and humid vs OKC. We may get 3 "cold" months out of the year.
You’re welcome! Storm windows are less prevalent in FL; however, you are in a Level 5 Rot Deterioration Zone. That means the historic window need additional protection from the constant humid air. Once you can shift the conversation from storm windows being for cold to draft and wood protection, that’s when things can start to click for owners. Also, we also own Preservan, a wood rot repair company, with territories available in Jacksonville. Scott Sidler, who is just down the road from you and has the @TheCraftsmanBlog channel, has Austin Historical and also picked up 4 Preservan territories!
A major shortcoming here is the failure to strip the board and batten wainscot and plate rail in the dining room. This is a glaring omission. What beautiful wood must be imprisoned in paint here ! It's a shame to go so far, then stumble on the goal line.
While we aren’t sure on the reason why, in our experience sometimes you can only go so far with a budget so you have to adjust and meet as many goals as possible.
I had the same thought regarding dust containment and PPE watching the old house videos. I'm curious - why don't you like chemical strippers for removing paint? I tested eco strip on an old door and I found it to be a lot easier than the cobra infrared gun. Do you not recommend that for windows?
In a one-off setting, chemical of eco-friendly stripping agents can be effective; however, if not done right, they can, in our experience, become an absolute mess that doesn’t remove all of the paint. An additional consideration is that if it is a chemical stripper, the surface must be properly neutralized before painting. If not, the coatings may not adhere well or have other issues.
@@OldHomeRescue Thank you for this. I discovered that when I used a stripper to do a window trim. It took ages and created an unbelievable mess. I'm using the cobra for my windows now...
Yet, people continue to do it. Know of three examples where next owners had to have the homes gently "sand blasted" to remove the paint. I see others that were cleaned but can still tell that they had painted brick.
I use only Sarco Dual Glaze putty because the extra-long time that it takes to skin over prior to painting means that it is VERY slow to dry out when exposed to the weather. The old timers use it because it can give more than a decade of additional service life beyond what Type M can. The window restoration businesses tend to use Type M so they can turn over their jobs faster. My house’s windows may get re-puttied only every 50-90 years so I want the putty to LAST. Waiting a couple extra weeks while the Dual Glaze skins over is well worth it.
Thanks for the insight! You’re right, DualGlaze is the best practice for in the field use. After conversations with the Sarsfields that own Sarco, we’ve been given approval to use Type-M for in-field application, within a few parameters. After about 5,000 windows, we’ve only had a handful of putty failures, and those were related to inappropriate paints, primers and a short period of using AquaGlaze before we knew about Sarco. Thanks again for your insight!
I hate to hear that for you. Since it is heat on, oftentimes, single strength glass, that heat should be reflected by using a number of different items like aluminum flashing, 8”+ broad knife, etc. There is typically less than 30 second of direct heat that the glass can absorb before breaking.
This video was very helpful. It would be even better if focus could be locked on the subjects and shots were framed to show the hardware rather than the backs of hands. Cheers!
I have broken many windows trying to reclaim wavy panes. I've tried everything including heat, steam, knife, chisel, and oscillating tool. The only thing that is useful for removing strong and well set glazing (which is not just falling out on its own anyway) is the oscillating tool. Stay in the wood and yes, it's a painfully tedious process, but it's the only way you can have any assurance that you can release the window without breaking it.
Me too. I tried a 10 inch drywall knife to shield the glass and a heat gun set on low. Glass still breaks. An oscillating tool is probably the best but as you said it is tedious. i just ordered a hand held infared heater on Amazon to try with the drywall knife to shield the glass and then use the oscillating tool to remove the putty. It should speed up the process.
@@supercharged2414 in some cases it worked to groove the wood with the oscillating tool just outside/short of the glass and then use a knife to pry the thin strip off. Wish I could see your project.
Thank you for creating this great informative video. I use the Cobra speed heater for about a year by now.Dealing with 80 years paints, several layers of it. This system not cheap, but you get the best of it as far as I can tell. It work like charm. Able to remove all the paint to the original wood.
Metabo Paint Shaver: Is SUPPOSED to be hooked up to a HEPA-filtered vacuum cleaner, and should still wear a respirator ESPECIALLY if there's lead paint. So much fun having a sweaty mask on your face, especially in the summer. It's noisy. And as was said at the beginning, you can do some serious damage to the wood if you don't get some practice in. You need extra tools to remove glazing. Costs less than the Cobra Speedheater. Sounds like nothing but cons to me, because the extra dollars for the Cobra is worth it. Cobra Speedheater: Uses InfraRed and doesn't heat the paint to where it combusts, so no breathing apparatus is even necessary. Ahh, to breathe without a sweaty respirator on my face. It's basically silent. You aren't encumbered by a vacuum hose. You use the same tools to remove the glazing. Costs more than the Metabo but with all of the downsides, it's way worth it. Sounds like nothing but pros to me, because the extra dollars for the Cobra is worth it.
Interestingly, 50 years is the benchmark to be deemed historic, which means a 1973 ranch or high rise could be historic now! There’s recently been a mid-80s commercial building in St Louis listed as well!
AquaGlaze used to be our “in a pinch” or emergency glass replace go to, but it’s now been discontinued. It’s become that only one that’s also locally available for most is tough to use too.
For best practice, yes, the glazing rebate can be treated with any of the following first; • 100% acrylic primer • Long dry oil primer • Tung oil (check out Sutherland Welles) • Boiled linseed oil
That’s a great question! We’ve never attempted to use in on concrete. Our uses have been on paint removal from wood and an adhesive backed flooring. The vendor for this is incredibly responsive though!
Thats a great idea! Our vendor actually offers brass shims in all of the hardware colors on our store, but not for this intended use. We could absolutely start offering them for this though!
Does the wood frame have to be primed with oil based paint before it’s glazed with all of these? I’m having issue with the dap33 that you require the oil based primer and that would mean you also need oil based paint on top? I feel stuck in my project on this issue ? I was told not to use dap33 and returned it I’m trying to reglaze with windows in place ,please help
There are a number of different option for the glass bed; boiled linseed oil, boiled linseed oil with turpentine, medium or long dry oils, or tannin blocking acrylic primers. When using Sarco’s DualGlaze or Type-M, you do not need to use an oil based primer or paint. You can paint the glazing with 1/16”-1/8” lapped onto the glass. We prefer quality modified urethane paints like Dunn Edwards AristoShield, Sherwin Williams Emerald Trim Urethane, or equivalent.
The Window Sash Bible recommends 50/50 boiled linseed oil and turpentine for the rebates (glass beds) to prevent the wood from sucking the oils out of the putty. Also recommends slow-drying oil based primer for the first coat on the putty and sash for its exceptional adhesion.
I've never seen such a slower use of the metabo in my life. This has got to be a scam video. Do a quick RU-vid search for "sanding a shash window in 15 minutes" amd you'll see. Don't be fooled, folks!
