What more you want to know? It actually held up for about a year, I since I had to redo with larger tek screws, if I was able to weld it it would be even better.
Yeah I just watched your video on the EGR valve and my question is... I had a new EGR valve put on my 99 Cadillac DeVille and it turned the service engine soon light off for 24 hrs, but then came back on and when put on the diagnostic tester it read my EGR valve again. I found out the mechanic who changed it out put the old gasket back on ( even though it came with a new gasket) would that cause my EGR valve to read in a open position. Note that my car is not running bad and hasn't even before the new EGR valve was put on. It just changed my fuel usage and that's all. Please tell me what you think I should check
I have since replaced the master cylinder and no more leaks, but still can’t figure out the ABS issue I have changed the front wheel hubs I think there might be a wiring issue with one of the front hubs cause when I make turns every now and then the ABS light will come on and I get a grind noise some times from the brakes like the ABS is trying to engage
Mine starts but turns sígnals won’t work flashers do ! reverse parking sensors won’t work brake won’t release by itself speed gauges won’t work fuel and temp gauge do work what could this be ?
Check your fuse box that’s under the hood, make sure it’s not loose there are three 8mm bolts on there make sure that’s tight, I had something similar where the right signal was not working, no wipers and no high beams. But I would also check that ground and make sure it’s in tact
Sorry, the door panel is just held on with clips, you need a panel removal tool or a flat head screw driver works, that’s why you see I said the clips broke and I had to tek screw the door back on
@jimmybooker5109 to hold it back on? Just some simple self tapping screw with the 1/4 hex heads get them long enough to penetrate the panel and into the metal, maybe at least 3/4” long
Under the vacuum pump itself right where the hose connect to it it's nuts on each side just take the nuts off and pull the vacuum pump straight up instead of going up under the car
We successfully removed it from the top with a swivel, extension, and ratchet. We put it all back together perfectly, and now the car starts and runs normal for about 3 seconds before idling up to 1000rpms and then up and down constantly. The engine has a slight shake like it's struggling, possibly missing... code shows a secondary air pump, which has been changed twice and was a code before but ran smoother. Its all new boots, plugs, coil etc. What could it be? 😳
I’m about to replace those lines entirely with rubber vacuum hoses tomorrow, if I remember I’ll update this comment so others know how it goes but man those are a pain in the ass, I had a bad coupling and pcv hose I had to fix and in the process I snapped that line in a few different spots so I’m replacing all that stupid plastic lol
How do you remove the column covers? I was able to remove the kick plate and the 2 bolts and the ignition key “cover” but the top and bottom cover won’t come off of the column itself
There are two screws in the bottom they are tork bits, then once get the bottom off there is an inverted tork bit, start watching at the 5:37 mark that’s where I put it back together, also watch my turn signal switch replacement video I also show how to get the covers off. Hope this helps
nice ride, ive been looking at a new car, cant afford a late model, but i did find this older car, with only 18,000 miles, they put a new carb from a VW, did not know it would fit, they also put a VW distributor, weird because its a ford... it has the original transmission, they put a special rear end in it which gives it 2 speeds, the trans is shifted by the clutch, all the way down is 1st gear, then you shift the rear end still holding clutch that would be high 1st, now the gas is on the steering wheel, you have to move it when shifting gears, now high gear is the clutch all the way out, then you have those 2 rear end gears, funny thing neutral is the clutch half way down, if you get in trouble pull the emergency brake it puts the car in neutral. also the spark advance is on the steering wheel, the guy says he can get 50mph, the tires are new. he wanted $16,000 i offered $8,000 he came down to $11,000. we are so close
AwewJeFF ,Cool stuff man same code same year ,mine says crankshaft sencer but ill go for the coils ,,,crank sencer goes out they wont run hardly ,so way kool .Thank you God bless and Happy Thanksgiving brO.
I had all kinds of codes because of the coils and spark plugs, I don’t know if I have crank shaft sensor code, I’ve had the crank position sensor go on my Chevy Express, an oil change actually fixed that problem. So I’d do an oil change and flush the engine as well. Happy Thanksgiving to you too!
Yes I fixed this it was an issue with my fuse box on the engine compartment it was loose, I’d try to turn your wipers on and jiggle that fuse box and see if they start working, if so you need to tighten down that fuse box, go to end of video where I showed that
I’m still having some issues though, I might have a wiring issue at one of the wheels, I already replaced both front hub assemblies so still looking into this
Honestly you should delete this video. This jist shows how someone with a camera trys to do a brake job. This isnt how you do this rear brake job. Would work for the front but never works this way for rear disc brakes with the integrated parking brake in the caliper .
