Gah, I’ve watched every video you’ve posted over the past few days, and now I want a stock Ender 3 again….I really do miss mine. I never got around this past weekend to fixing my Ender 3 Pro, but I did order some stock parts from AliExpress coming in the next few weeks, so fingers crossed.
Good question......but the info. is not going to help anyone. OLD School, CURA 15.04.3/CREALITY 1.2.3.. They are not available anymore but they still work NOW as there were intended, way back then. Still very easy to understand and use, as well as way less problematic then slicers available today or those well into the future. Old School will always work for me.👌🙂
I love how you do not need a heated bed with blue tape. Really tragic how forgotten it has become as a build surface. I remember using it on an unheated airwolf printer after the original sheets ran out.
Over 5 plus years printing successfully every day on 4 - CLASSIC ENDER 3 printers. Why "fix" what works. Well over 4000+ STL files printed and many of them several times. No stress Printing ALWAYS! Simply find a good working gCODE and "Print". Watch my other videos for actual "proof in the doing!" I rediscovered the use of #2090 and combined it with a mirror tile. A perfect combination, in my opinion. In fact, one of my printers is printing now! Actually the toughest part of 3D printing for me is finding another item to print to add to my collection.🔎😜
I started with the Ender 3. Darn good machines. No wonder so many other companies essentially copied it. Right now I’ve got a 3 Pro I’m trying to get running and an Ankermake M5C that apparently only accepts the finest, most exquisite PLA because the cheap stuff an Ender eats for breakfast usually comes out spaghetti from the M5C.
I have 2 - ENDER 3 pro's and 4 - classic ENDER 3's. All still using what came "out of the box", including the PRINT HEAD (hotend). More then 5 yrs printing every day. Did you change your printers hotend for some reason? Just wondering.
@@blinkyone1947 My first Ender is still stock and runs like a top. This Pro I’ve got is from a trade I made a few weeks back and the guy had put on all the bells and whistles…and couldn’t get it working properly. I have a feeling it is as simple as a corrupted firmware flash from when he added the CRTouch. I’ll get it working today, though.
Great job getting a stock ender 3 supremely level without breaking the bank. Tempered glass absolutely makes a huge difference....I've got 2 of the older ones, and the beds were warped right out of the box. First layers were always a crap shoot until I got a glass cutter and repurposed a coffee table top.
Use a cut to size mirror tile, it has WAY more advantages then just plain glass. Try it for yourself and "SEE".👍🙂👌 . As mentioned in all my videos, my "printer, printing setup (#2090)" does not even require heating the bed (ever) to force adhesion and the MIRROR tile is "flat" from the factory and any electronic gizmo CRT/BLT is not even needed. No need for tempering. 5+ yrs., daily. The CRT is actually rendered useless because there is nothing to compensate for anyway! Only the PFG routine is required (paper feeler gage). Watch this video for detailed advice. . Another advantage in plain sight. .
your video was the only one that let me calibrate well my z axis without buying anything new, just plain good calibration, now my printer prints like it had linear rails. like we say in argentina "sos un crack". Thanks
I enjoy your 3D printing videos. I have some old Ender 3 printers still in the box, was thinking they must just be junk by newer standards but you make them seem still useful! Mine have the big heavy sheets of glass for printing, not sure of the exact model they are but they are the Ender 3.
My experience was similar. Tuning slicer settings will do a lot more for you than upgrades for basic prints. The main reason for upgrades should be attaining higher speeds while maintaining quality or achieving hotter temperatures for more advanced filaments.
Watch my other videos to see why! Because it has always worked without fail!🙂👍👌 Well over 3900+ STL files printed in 5+ yrs. on 4 - ENDER 3 printers and 1 - CR10S. I always go with what works and always will! Keep the printing process simple. NO NEED to reinvent the working wheel! Proof is in the actual creations! .
@@blinkyone1947 As much as I like to recommend PEI coated metal sheets, you're totally right. If you are tuned for tape on glass and you arent having bed adhesion issues, a new type of build surface is only going to introduce a new variable you have to tune for.
@@tannerdudeman 👍This is actually #2090 Tape on Mirrored Tile. There are "many other user advantages" and benefits of a removable, mirrored print surface. No other print surface means provides this all at once. Works for me. 🙂 In fact it is printing now!
I have found with my 5 yr. personal experiences, "never more true" then with my CLASSIC, Basic, no frills, work horse ENDER 3 printer.👍👌🙂 Keeping it simple just keeps it printing! Doesn't need me at all.
No need to reinvent the working wheel. I also still use CURA 15.04.3 slicer. Why complicate the printing process with so called UPGRADES that don't work every time.🙂👍👌 Watch my many other videos to prove it works consistently without heating the bed too! A heated bed is a thing of the past when doing it in this fashion. Actual proof is in the accomplishments. I have 4 - ENDER 3 printer, keeping them simple, just keeps them printing! Why attempt to fix what simply isn't broken. 👍👍👌
I am of the same mindset as you, the supposedly reasons filament becomes brittle don't add up, I have Creality Glow from 4yrs ago, no special storage or treatment, just sits in a cardboard box, never a problem when used. I have had a new roll of filament sitting on a machine, 2 days later pieces on the floor, still printing ok without problems, I sent one roll back to the supplier/ maker that kept breaking when trying to print with it as it was just time wasting to continue to deal with it. I think the problem lies with the quality of materials & colour agents per batch as I have a Red Pla that was bright & glossy when first using it new, but 2 yrs later its pale & a dull semi matt after printing. All of my rolls are just put back in the box they come in with the little sachet of absorb granules, no dryer or special treatment for them, sometimes the rolls are left on the machines for days, even weeks, I just don't throw it unless it fails for the 3rd or 4th time, even for loading bearing design or prototypes that get put under stress.
Great work! your prints look so good, I will be showing this to the next person who try's to convince me a certain feature, auto bed tramming, heated enclosure, ect is "required" for printing.
@@blinkyone1947 the printer need a good knowledge person to print. Example if the hot end its not 100% straight then the printer will make bubble sound and everyone will say the filament have humid😉
Good question: The blue tube has a smaller inside diameter and it causes added, unwanted extra friction around the inside curve of the tube and it will still have the "Gapping" issue during retractions. . The OEM white tube delivers the filament from the EXTERNALY mounted, (seperate) EXTRUDER to the hot end and the BLUE tube is "LOCKED" into place between the coupler and the hot nozzle, preventing that dreaded unwanted gap even during retractions! And now the White tube no longer has that responsibility any longer a huge BONUS!. It just delivers filament from the spool as it should.
😂😂 You will get so many dislikes for this. I agree with you. i have been rocking my ender 3 pro for 5 years, with minimum issue, i just upgraded to direct drive for flexible filaments and new bed sheets for 50$, and that's it. I have been looking for new printers, but why? Those youtuber are playing with my head to spend my money for things I do not need. I don't need a new one. This one works perfectly fine. I can still run the ender3 for a long time, and if anything breaks, i will just buy replacement parts for cheap..
