Film photography how-to videos, camera reviews, and random photography meanderings.
Disclaimer: If you want absolute complete technical proficiency this might not be the place. These videos are a lot like an elderly person navigating a tv remote. A little random, and probably confused.
If you have access to a 3D printer, you can print developing reels for the 35/120 Paterson Developing Tank. Ive done that for 8.5mm Minox film, 16mm subminiature film and 110 film. They work great!
@@jsollowsphotography Hey there! Thanks for the heads up. I do have a 3d printer and those 110 Patterson reels worked well (aside from the film unspooling itself off the reel in the tank sometimes). I eventually bought a Yankee Master tank which has been great.
Just got a pentax auto 110 and found your video. I haven't shot anything on mine yet. Quick question - are you able to tell when you are out of film with the window taped up? Or are you keeping track of how many shots you've taken?
Hi there. The way I do it, no, you can't see what frame you're on. I just usually keep a tally to know when I've hit 24 frames. If you reload also using some old backing paper you could peel back the tape to peek, but I find it's not worth the extra trouble.
Really loved this review, wish there were sample shots, but nonetheless, great fun review. I've used this lens probably more than any other lens, and can say that it's best used manually, I was never satisfied with the auto on this lens. This lens went hand and hand with my D5000, and then with my D600. But I was even more shocked on how well it work on the Z6. This lens is definitely the lens you want to have if you're traveling. Between this and my 60mm, it's great. I also recommend using this lens for Black and white shots.
Hey there. I also had the 24-120G which was pretty much glued to my D750. It was way better optically and better AF performance. Plus it had VR. But it was also 4x the price. I included a full res sample shot in the description for the 24-120 AFD, here's the link: Tabletop shot showing the quality of the lens- filmismorefun.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/DSC_1244.jpg
--------- kind of you to make a video. It reinforced that my camera was complete & functions the same as yours. The real test is coming. I ordered some Tri-x Black & White Kodak film (hopefully not too expired) and I'm gonna shoot a roll, then off to TheDarkRoom for processing. Any viewer input as to their experience with any of this is always fun to read. Take Care.
@@scsu5085 I'm glad it was helpful 🙂. Tri-x, HP5, and many other films are still made in 120, and available from BH Photo (and other places) if you're looking for fresh film that's not expired.
#ExplainItToMeLikeImFive hello! the thing i don't understand is marking the film for double exposures... I'm not sure how to frame the wording on this, but if you mark the film to align frames, how will you see it when the back of the film camera has to be closed to not destroy the film?
I have one to several years older than the one he is showing a good chunk of the time the glass lens was behind the shutter on mine it looks like something is missing to but it’s complete
Hello. The thing that confuses me the most with double exposures is how white & black interacts with each layer/exposure. My understanding is that double exposures with lots of black in the subject will retain the most details. Do exposures with a lot of white in the subject create more/better silhouettes? When you mentioned low contrast, do you mean the double exposure with a lot of white in the subject needs something more dim & not stark to layer with for better results? I think my understanding is that white kills details in images? I hope this is making sense. I’m still confused. It’s confusing. I just want to do better double exposures in camera, but I need to understand the order with layering better.
Hi there. Yes, you are correct- the white (any areas exposed to more light) will not allow the details to come through. The shadows (black parts) retain details because the full hasn't been exposed to as much light. So the shadows in the first shot will show details from your second shot. Bright areas in the first shot will block details in the second shot. I hope that helps!
@@filmismorefun thank you for responding. That is helpful. I think that I should maybe alter my talking points. It may be less confusing for me if I think in terms of what is being more exposed to light & what isn’t being as exposed to light/shadows. Does how you decide to layer a photo impact the results as well? And should I consider colour when doing double exposures? I.e. should I layer a photo in accordance to how dark or light a subject/details are? Hope this makes sense, too.
@@BoxOfShockolates If I'm trying to achieve a certain combination and composition for the end result of both exposures, yes, I definately do plan where each shot will likely show through. Lower contrast scenes (less extreme dark and light areas) will result in more of each shot blending together evenly. As for color, darker colors like blue, red, etc pop out more while simultaneously allowing more of the second exposure to come thru because it is closer to a shadow in black and white (think of color shades in terms of grayscale).
@@filmismorefun hello again. I’m so sorry I have so many questions. I’m so inquisitive & I always worry if it’s too much. 😅 but you have no idea how happy it makes me that you’re responsive, b/c I’m truly obsessed w/ learning & you explain everything so well. I’m just trying to absorb as much info as possible, so I can start putting all of this info into practise & give my self assignments, so I can have more successful in-camera double exposures. There’s definitely more to it than just simply layering exposures. The more I learn about how all this works, the better results I can have. Dumb question: by greyscale, do you mean in terms of dark to light? And if so, could this apply to both b&w & colour photography? I forgot to mention that for now, I primarily shoot b&w. But that is my goal, I want to make sure both of my exposures will show through in each photo. I have more questions. I’m just not sure how to frame the wording. Because I’m still thinking in terms of the order of which I should take pictures. Sometimes when I’m attempting to compose a double exposure, I’m not always sure which picture I should take first, because I get nervous about destroying the picture overall. E.g. let’s say i take a picture of the clouds & blue sky in daylight as the first exposure. Does this mean the second picture should be low contrast if I want it to blend evenly with the first picture? I also know both pictures should be stopped down with double exposures.
I did an article in 35MMC on this very problem. The electrodes of the new battery don’t stick out as much as the old one and will not reach the contacts in the camera. Take the battery out of the battery holder and just shove it directly in, and it will start working. But you end up with a hole on the top of the camera so I took side cutters and cut the plastic off that holds the battery and snaps in just fine. The only downside is that it is harder to get the battery out, but not rocket science. Good luck.
Your sample photographs are great! Looks like a lot of (uncomplicated) fun. I've tried all sorts of cameras - point & shoot, slr, tlr, rangefinder, any number of lomo cameras (although I do now regret selling my sprocket rocket - c'est la vie). They're all 'meh', really (probably says more about my skills than anything). If I want a 'good' photo, with fancy lenses, I have a digital Nikon. But this has really caught my interest. Thanks very much!
That is such a compact 110 camera and I’m sure the lens is very good, Chris. Valuable video with important tips for other owners so thanks for sharing! 👍🏻
have you tried taping a few LR44 batteries together? Sometimes that works on other cameras, you gotta do some goofy shit with the yashica electro to get that to work now lol
- - - - - LOVE this camera. I just got mine. While cleaning it (gently) on the front, I somehow disengaged the shutter button It doesn't click open any more, part of the black apeture doesn't open to allow light into camera. Any ideas? Do you have a video of dissassmbly perhaps?
It's fixed! The contacts were not touching the terminals completely with the new battery. I gently bent the contacts outward to allow enough pressure on the new battery's terminals. So that PX27M battery is a viable replacement. Thanks to @ianhand5006 for the heads up.
It's because the -ve battery terminal probably isn't touching the contact in the camera. Pop the battery out, and you should be able to see the problem.
Ahh! I think you're right. I just bent the terminals out a little to create a more pressure against the terminals and now the new battery is opening the aperture. Thanks!
@@frankdiscussion2069 So you can line up your own multiple exposures, or synchronize the exposed area when two different people shoot a roll together (film swap).
I have a Nikon F4 .. Nikon em took the 50mm 1.8 off EM .. using it on my F4 .. Its the lens with unpainted aluminum ring , tell you that that lens is Silky Smooth focusing lol
The guide part is a good old trick, but to make it easier yet, unfurl the entire film from the backing paper then peel - don’t tear - the backing paper off. Fold the tape back on to the film so it sticks there and now you have a more solid and less curled end to put into the reel.
Very creative! Looks better when the 2nd exposure is run through the camera. Love the bubbles on the kitty’s face photo! Thanks for sharing this technique, Chris! 👨🎨
I know this video is years old but I’ve been putting notes on my camera to make it as foolproof as I can. How many full turns do you think you need to make sure you’re fully onto the actual film emulsion when loading? That way I can avoid going solely based on feeling for the added resistance. And do you know if Fomapan would line up with the viewing window, or just the brands mentioned in other comments?
Hi there. I *think* it's three turns, but can't recall for sure. I have another video on the Sureshot where I believe I noted that. That video should be in the 'film cameras' playlist. I hope that helps!
