This channel is a random selection of projects which found the way into my shop, including some R+D projects and feasability studies which may or not end up in a finished product Enquiries are always welcome. Economically, some repair projects might not make sense but it demonstrates at least failure analysis and if possible, the fix. .. not to forget that we may save things from going to the trash bin, I just don't like that "throw-away-buy-new" culture. In fact, most equipment in my electronics lab and the majority of the mechanical workshop has arrived in non working order but for little money. Surely not everyones cup of tea but i simply enjoy fixing things (well, most times)
My day job has to do with the automotive testing business (hence the name), sadly most stuff is confidential, therefore it's rather unlikely to see footage from there
Interests: Electronics, Ham Radio, all sorts of machine shop work, my Bikes, my cars On a slow line, so no HD videos, sorry ...
These machines are well over 30 years old and the company does not exist anymore, so guess what .... Only option for a new deck is to make a one from a (random) newer machine to fit, which is not too difficult but requires at least some basic fabrication skills. But my opinion, this would be cost prohibitive as it exceeds the value of the tractotr by far. I just keep on repairing my deck as necessary.
Hi. I have an almost identical Mitsubishi 2.0 GDI with somewhat similar problems. Since I've had the car (4 years), you say the engine speed was limited to 4000 revolutions per minute. Up to this limit, everything was ok. For almost 1 month, the engine behaves well only when idling. When I press the accelerator pedal, the engine stops. Can you give me an idea of what the problem is? With much respect. PS, sorry for the inherent mistakes, but I used google translate.
My egr valve position is on -8% with commanded position 1.5% so I think I have some similar problems on my v70 D5. Either sensor or motor. Thanks for a great video :)
Greeting I have the same device which is broken. His relay, which is located after the rectifier bridge, burned out. My problem is that now I can't read the values of the resistors, the green ones on the video, which are behind the rectifiers. Do you have pictures with the resistor data? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
loosen the nuts of the stuck one, but don't remove them completely , then run the engine, it will pop, eventually. If that does not work,.... brute force. perhaps.
@dynoguy never thought of that, I got the head off already. I got 2 out so far by getting oil behind the seal, wiggling and using wrenches to lever them out
clamp or screw a plate with a grease nipple over the little hole of the pre combustion chamber and use your grease gun to force it out. You obviously need to have the combustion chamber cover plate in place as well. Be careful, a decent grease gun can make a lot of pressure ....
@dynoguy I got them all out, I made a video, you can lever them out with a wrench. I got a bunch of rust in one cylinder, I wonder if I can just sand it out
"You opened up the product and found that those three large capacitors are also fake. They're old capacitors disguised with a new exterior. The control chip is also outdated."
The video is excellent. That product is fake; it just looks very similar on the outside. I'll reward you with a Huanyang VFD product. Please send me your address.
I have an engine slight tick block has 169k that sounds like top end I replaced push rods and lifters sound is still there no performance loss still pulls hard, no oil in coolant, do 4.0s tick and how proactive should I be about the noise ?
Of course i do,... it's been a while, but if i remember that right it's 115Nm for the 2 clamp bolts and 175Nm for the font one. The car must sit on ride height when you torque them, so fit them hand tight, then lower both wishbone ends onto blocks, suspending the full weight, then torque them up to spec.
Hello! Does anybody have the HP3312A manual whith schematics scanned at high resolution? The schematic diagrams available at the Agilent website have not enough resolution and some details are unreadable. Thank you!
I only have the one from the Agilent site and i agree, drawing scans are not great, but good enough to understand the circuitry and if you can't read a component value on the drawings, just look at the parts lists, these are quite readable
I agree that maintenance-free is a deception. Because it is a lead acid battery it must be ventilated with temperature change. Therefore, there is vapor loss from being vented to the atmosphere. So, unless the atmosphere refills, the battery with distilled water you are out of luck. And to my knowledge, the atmosphere does not refill batteries with distilled water!
Crap equipment,i bought one years ago it broke down on test and sent it back ,they refused to give money back and issued credit note for 11 grand Which they nullified after a period of time saying it expired 😮.
Hi. Im in the same situation with my D5. p0403/p0409/p0489 My question is, do you need to recalibrate the egr position sensor after you switch to a new (used) one? I've read both yes and no. And you didn't do it in this video. Thanks!
I think the workshop manual calls for a calibration, but as far as i can see,it does a cycle on power up anyway. All i did was checking with VIDA if it reaches it's 0 and 100% points, which it does. Running just fine since the video was posted, done well over 40k miles since. Make sure you clean that valve thoroughly and check for smooth operation before you put everything back together.
second one of these i have bought for 500 ea both turned into no recieve bricks after 3 years looks like battery id going on this last one too less than unhappy with icom as i have 3 other icom bricks going to start using them for boat acnhors
Well, it's essential to check the battery in these radios every now and then, no issues for me and i got quite a few Icom radios... Happy to dispose your junk ...:-)
Hello what was the cause of the lower plate voltage around 1400v at first then had plate voltage of 2300v ??. I have a fl2100 that's only running at 1400v at plate.
Very interesting you did find the problem... yes there are more with this problem... I did repair more of them.. all succes.. but today I did get a 290 with exactly the same problem as your tester,.. flickering screen after touching a button. But I did look with wiring you did replace.. ( sorry hehe ), but it always those 2 wires that has to be fixed with that problem ?? Thanks again we can learn.. Please can give me an answer. Regards PAB Netherlands
I had one Varta Blue battery, after just one year I noticed that car started slowly to crank, send to reclamation, received a new one. This new one also after one year same story. Purchased Yuasa 5000 series, and car is cranking without a problem. After that there is no way that any kind of Varta will ever come ever near my car.
if your car in lim mode and if you get glow plug relay control dtc and cannot find the relay (not the one in the fusebox) just replace the glowplugs and delete the fault codes and you are good to goo.
Maintenance free batteries eh? Think we all know there’s nothing free in this life 🤔. I had a varta battery 5yrs old and tried to use repair mode on a noco genius after running the 4hr repair mode 3times it did improve slightly. But as mentioned in one of your other comments it ultimately needs water 💧. It had security screw caps making it practically impossible to screw out. I tried tapping then hammering it with a driver anti clockwise to screw it out but the plastic battery Casing is that soft it just started to chisel a hole and destroy the screw cap….. I gave up 🤷🏻♂️🥲
Wow, that's a bit over ambitious for the 572B tubes. I bet someone set the primary transformer tap to 100V instead to 117V (assuming you in the US), because that works out to pretty much exactly 2800V. There are 3 settings, 100V, 110V and 117V, set it to 117V and you should get 2400V in idle.
Hello, have you made more films about the repair/restoration of the kubota kh-90? I have a 1986 model myself and I'm very interested in seeing how you solve challenges related to this machine :) greetings Arild
Hi Arild, yes i do have about 40 hours of footage from this project (and still not finished), but not yet published as i don't really have the time to edit. As you can see, i have not posted any new content for almost 2 years. But i am quite happy to answer specific questions, if you have any, cheers , Mike
No, it's a one piece unit, unfortunately. I do remember the old Saeco Vienna machines where you could take the boiler apart, easy job to clean, but with this one, either use acid (and pray) or buy a new boiler.
Nice! I just got one of these from a ham buddy. Got it back to life with a new ram board. Chasing down some display, memory switch, and vco issues but nothing that scares me off too bad. These rigs receive really well and transmit a nice sharp clean signal! 73
I agree, it's a great radio, i must admit that i am a big fan of older ICOM radios, got the 745, 751, 751A, 271E, 211, 245 and my very first one was a 215, bought brand new around 1978. They need some love every now and then, but never had any major issues ,except that noisy DC-DC converter in my 751A which is a story in itself ... almost forgot the VCO caps, a pain to do, but worth it. But if i compare the receivers alone, my Drake TR7 outperforms those ICOM HF radios by far.
Hi! I have a problem with my Francis X6 Trio. After switching on the machine water is leaking slowly. I mean is dropping. What is wrong? How can I fix it? Thx
Brings back some memories. Nice to "meet" the lady who bottled my Abhainn Dearag Spirit of Lewis. To me, it has a lot of rice wine and soya sauce in the nose, and a lot of pepper in the flavour. A perfect whisky for enjoying with Chinese food, or a guid haggis. Don't add water, for that kills this young expression. Must get hold of a bottle of 10 yr old soon.
