The 'rust' indicates that the engine core plugs are leaking and will eventually result in a misfire as the plug lead gets drowned. Removing and replacing those plugs is pretty easy. Remove spark plugs and cover plug holes to prevent debris entry. Drain enough coolant to prevent it leaking out the top when the core plugs are removed (drain around 4 litres) then drill small hole in the core plug (say 6mm) and lever them out after. You can knock one edge DOWN and grab the edge that pops up. Clean up inner edges of the core plug holes and fit new plugs WITH a smear of silicon sealant around them (ask me why!) Use a large socket to seat and drive home the plugs to 'just under the top' of the hole. Plugs are 25mm diameter and available 'everywhere'.
Thanks for the tip, appreciated! I might take the oppourtunity to take the front end off when its time to do them and finally clean the surface rust off of the chassis legs. In the meantime the cars barely used, I pop it out for a spin now and then just to keep the rust off the brakes.
@@monkey-hut No denying that keeping these 'old' vehicles roadworthy will pay off in time. Mine (Mazda 2 - same engine as yours though) cost me £150 over 5 years ago and still going strong. I even paid £250 to buy a later model (facelift) to upgrade the lights and interior! Far cheap than buying the parts!
I never noticed that before, I must have missed out the clip of me dismantling everthing. It was a year ago and I can't remember editing it but maybe swearing was involved and I thought it was best left out.
You probably could, depending on what spring compressor you have but space is somewhat limited unless you remove the bottom bolt on the shock and swing the axle down.
@@monkey-hut Tnx for reply, I've just changed them 3 hours ago. I've tried yesterday but because I only jacked up one side of the car I couldn't get the axle low enough so I struggled, I eventually got 1 spring in but the bottom rubber bit kept sliding off so I left it off. Today I jacked the car from the front jacking points and put axle stands on the rear jacking points on both side. After I've done that it was easy, put all the rubber ends on and was done in one hour😁
That's a thought, never considered the valves. Unfortunately this car was scrapped after, I would have loved to have kept it to keep tinkering with but I already have two projects and I don't have room for another.
As far as I'm aware the test only covers the seatbelt itself so as long as it works they don't care about the beeping as it's just a reminder for the driver.
Thank you. Unfortunately I haven’t had a chance to come back to this yet, every time I think about it the car comes up with a more pressing issue for me, the latest one is the display on the instrument cluster has decided to act weird
I’m not sure red is my colour though 😅 I had a hell of a job scrubbing that paint off, it was worse the second day when I got a bit more on myself and then lacquered over the top of it.
Como se pueden poner tan rapido el alambre de acero, o muelle que sujeta la pinza? Es bastante complicado colocarlo. Este sistema , es el mas complicado de montar que he visto y montado. Tengo 70 años y he cambiado muchas pastillas, caliper, pero como esos, que usa ford, ninguno. Los mas complicados😢
I was lucky with this one and it went on fairly easily but in the past I've often had to hold it roughly in place with pliers and tap it in with a small hammer.
hi mate , I have a 2005 Mk6 fiesta, same as yours, I've got a timing belt and water pump kit for mine as well, I just wondered what impact wrench you bought that you used for the crankshaft pulley? anyway congratulations for doing your timing belt, as I want to do mine also , thanks
@@monkey-hut hi thanks for getting back to me, I bought a Ryobi impact from Halfords as well , it says it will do 400 nm , I watched some reviews on the Ryobi, and it was tested and performed well, even exceeding 400nm , that's why I I bought a Ryobi impact driver, anyway I've only used mine on wheel nuts sofar , no probs on about 100nm , it may get tested when I do the cambelt , thanks for your videos, hope to see more,👍👍👍
Trying to put facelift parts on the pre facelift fiesta is a pain as all the manuals i have found dont include the facelift fiestas for the wiring diagrams
I know, I probably should have just picked up a pair of pre facelift mirrors in the first place but these were already on the car when I bought it and I can get quite stubborn about these things. Also I couldn’t find much info online about other people doing the swap so if I can figure it out and share the results I will.
Not yet, it’s kind of working and hasn’t burned the car down so it low on my list at the moment. Next step will be to pick up a Haynes manual and compare both the looms to see if I can make any sense of them but I’ll probably end up replacing the original fittings and picking up some pre facelift st150 mirrors
@monkey-hut when ford done the face lift they also changed the wiring colors for a lot of the parts and looking at my Haynes manual (doesn't include wiring diagrams for the facelift fiesta) the yellow/red wire and the blue/white wire on your right hand door mirror need switching as the yellow/red wire is for left right and blue/white is for up down
@@186scott Thanks for the info, really useful. I’ve got to to a few other things to get it through its mot first but I’ll give that a go after. Just got to figure out the two spare wires in the passenger side now.
@@g3ges3 The extra wires? It's possible. The mirrors and the rest of the ST bits were already on the car when I bought it so I've got no idea about it's history.
Edited my reply as I was thinking of my video with the locking wheel nuts. I'll give the nuts another turn once I get chance, as it is the car is just sitting there at the moment, Thanks!
Scratch that, watching the video again reminded me that I had just put those nuts on temporarily as I had them knocking around, it's just that "temporarily" has become almost a year. I will fit the proper ones at some point though.
I don't know why I didn't think about the laquer needing a key, I think I must have just fallen into the habit of just polishing them up every year because I hate laquer so much. Thanks for the comment!
I couldn’t find my spring compressors on that day so I had to bodge it a little bit which I think I explained in the video, as such it was more about trying to figure out the weird ride height rather than being a how to.
Hi, how about changing the title to: "Trying to figure out the ride height on a Clio and wasting 6.26 minutes of your life on a daft video with zero content" Thank you
That’s a good question, I don’t know if the holes would line up but even if they did, it’s quite a small hole and I’d be worried about damaging the threads in the drum. I would offer to pop a wheel off and look but it’s raining that much here I’d be genuinely worried about drowning on dry land 😂
I thought I had mentioned it. This was my first time trying to do voiceover after the original audio proved to be unusual due to mic failure and I had to have several goes at it. Edit: sorry, I was thinking about the clip at 3.20. I hadn’t fitted the compressors at that point as I wanted to start the top nut going first but you are right that I should have mentioned them. There’s a good reason that I never title these videos as ‘How To’s’
I never even considered that. I always just assumed it was because they twist and deform so much. My rear bumper is pretty much held together with cable ties.
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It didn't work out for me, during the process of inserting the new cable one of the strings snapped and so far after many hours of trying its been a failure, even the handle could not be freed using the two screwdrivers, I had to use force and break it in order to get it off.
Ah, no. Sounds like you had quite the day with it. I’m not surprised with the handles, some of them can get quite brittle. With the seat cables you could always try using some stuff wire and try and push it up from the bottom to guide the new cable down. Something like a wire coat hanger but long enough to go through the entire seat back
Thanks, I’ll have a look at that next time I’m in there. I’m in the middle of doing the timing belt at the moment but I do want to pop the hubs back off to clean and paint them and probably readjust the brakes while I’m in there so I’ll try turning it around then.
Hi,brilliant video, easy followed & great instructions ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ I have a question if you don't mind. I've got the exact same car, what Haynes book would it be in, I've got the 2003 to 2006(53 to 06 reg) blue cover. And it doesn't have the fantastic instructions you give. Thanks & so well done 👍
Thank you, I think I may have the same book as you, even though it didn't do me a lot of good as it didn't cover the 2.0 petrol engine. It is covered on 9*13 under "16 Handbrake (automatic)" but I'm a visual learner and the black and white pics in Haynes manuals don't help me a great deal. This video covers the second time I changed the EPB, the first time I mostly figured it out for myself with a lot of trial and error.
Hi, thanks for this video! I would like to recommend some things. Release the emergency brake afzer removing the weel and befor start working at the brakes! 1. Don't remove the nut in the center to open the drum. You need to pull it tight with 235NM. The better way is to remove the 4 screws (17mm) at the rear side of the drum. They need to be pull tight with 70NM only! But befor removing the 4 screws, the ABS-sensor needs to be removed carefully. It is lokated between the 4 scews. The sensor is firmly pressed in and the scew is to hold it in losition only. The screw needs to be tightened with 8NM. On this way, you will remove the drum WITH the axle. The only tricky part is, to reach the 4 screws through the spring. But it's much more easier than removing the center nut. BTW, the center nut must be replaced by a new one! The 4 screws at the rear side can be used again. The only time to remove the center nut is, when the drum needs to be changed! TAKE A PICTURE OF THE SPRINGS! Just to be shure how everything will be build together. Aspacially the upper spring. The sinde with the 4 turns needs to point to the front of the car. 2. To remove the brake pads, you only need to do the following steps. You will see, the hardest part of the job is to set the clips back, that hold the brake shoes in position. - remove the 2 clips that hold the brake shoes in position - pull apart the brake shoes at the upper side and pull them towards you, so that the brake cylinder gets free. - pull the brake shoes at the lower side down, so that they get free of the middle base. - now you could remove the lower spring easy - same to the upper spring and the self adjuster. I used this way today to replace the brake shoes at my fiesta mk5 (2002). From the beginning till thecend I needed round about 1½ hour for both sides.😉 Sorry if I used the wrong words, but my technical english is not the best. 😂
Thank you for the nice video and I am in the middle of EPB annoying problem for my scenic 2 , I have changed the rear brake pads and I got immediately the check parking brake msg with service P yellow triangle! I did. every possible steps and I checked every and anything related even I fitted the old pads back 😅and I still have this msg which appears only when the hand brake is activated and disappear when I move , everything operates normal only this annoying message! I made also the reset and drove long but no effects Do you have any suggestions? Greetings from Austria 🇦🇹
@@monkey-hut yes I did and also I have checked the switch and the clutch pedal sensor and all is ok and I am pretty sure that it has something to do with the EPB unit or cable tension but I can’t find the clue
@@megamac3898 it might be the handbrake cable of the sliding mechanism that connects the cable to the epb. If not then it’s probably the epb failing. It is worth checking the cables first though
Having a similar problem, and my Autel ML629 doesn't give me any info (cylinder, clutch sensor, O2 sensor, etc). Changed the spark plugs, and it ran fine for two weeks, then it started lossing power again. Had difficulty going up an incline without misfires. Changed all the ignition coils. It went fine (mainly) for a few weeks. Now it's misfiring again. I have been sticking to Mobil one fuel for months. What diagnostic tool are people using on the Renault scenic rx4 to diagnose misfires and to reset the ECU. Apparently you have to reset ECU after changing plugs or ignition coils. But why does the vehicle go fine for the first few weeks (like it has automatically reset)??
Unfortunately I had to give up on mine, my second car also needed a lot of work, I have a long term project in my garage and I didn’t have room for a fourth car. Thinking back on the problem I do wonder if the initial misfire damaged the catalytic converter as unplugging the o2 sensor and forcing it into open loop seemed to get rid of the misfire but a new sensor didn’t fix it. Did you clear the error codes after changing the coils?
Always raise the bonnet first!! Save on tape and time!! You didn't mention which kit? The tape again looked thin and scippy,I dont favour wet sanding its messy and time consuming, A cordless drill with variable speed works far better, As water acts like a lubricant and slows down surface removal, An acceptable result well at least it wont fell its next MOT!!!
Good point with the bonnet, didn’t even cross my mind at the time. The kit was a no-name one from eBay but I would like to try a decent branded one some time. When I did the headlights one of my old Clio’s I actually removed them from the car, dry sanded and then spent some time on them with my da polisher and they came up like new
I haven't had to do it myself yet but as long as the string is just a bit longer than the seat back then you're all good. You have to have a length of string on each side too.
This is a cool little project channel that I've been watching and subbed to for the past few months. I'm thinking of putting the ST wheels on mine, but thought they'd rub at full lock? Presumably this Ghia or whatever it was had 15" to 16" before the conversion?
Thanks, appreciate it 👍. I don’t know all the history of this car, it had already been played around with when I bought it but I’m fairly sure it started as a ‘Style’ and I think they originally came with 14” wheels. There’s no rubbing at all on full lock and that’s with the lowering springs as well but I will say that the st wheels with the 40 profile isn’t the comfiest ride, when I first bought the car there wasn’t a lot of air in the front tyres and I went over a pothole, apart from almost losing a couple of fillings the noise it made scared a few pedestrians. If I was choosing I think I’d either try for 45 profile tyres on the st wheels or maybe zetec s wheels
@@monkey-hut yes I'm thinking of either staying at 16" or downgrading to 15" for this very reason. They're also heavier the 17" than the stock alloys i have on now. Cheers for the info!
@@TimSter15 no problem, it’s that long ago I can’t remember what I said in the vid. If you decide to go with st wheels @MenditModit fitted 205/45 17’s so it might be worth asking him how he got on with them
Sorry, that’s probably my accent getting in the way. I was saying that the door was very tinny sounding so if you wanted decent speakers in there it would be a good idea to get some sound deadening on the door first
my wifes mk6 duratec shows handbrake light then stalls...no errors on diagnostic machine. changed petrol pump,throttle position sensor, cleaned throttle,swapped relays...still stalling
To get the full plastic panel off you need to take the screw out back of the door and you also need to remove the outer plastic for the key lock and remove the door handle
Thank you, I’m sure something else will break in the future and I’ll get another crack at it. I did see that it was connected to the handle somehow but with the weather threatening to turn I couldn’t take the time to find out how.
@@Account-hw4ykgive yourself time, take pictures to remind yourself how everything goes together, don’t try and force the panel off and watch other vids as other people focus on different parts of the job. Good luck 👍
There a few other videos online basically before you take all the 10mm bolts out take glass out door handle outer off there little screw back of door take the 3 torxs out for the catch when you take the outer handle off you feel it slide out but when you put it back together there is a silver screw push that down slot the handle back in put the cap back on and pull door handle you will feel it click back to the other bits door card off like showen in video don't have to speak out either but slide window down to the two holes for window clips then the screws out of lock and door handle then remove the 10mms it should lift and slide you will have to disconnect the loom from body to get the full panel out don't worry it goes back in no problems stuck message
Thanks again for your video. I managed to buy the device for getting the brake drum off. Getting the main 30mm nut off was easy enough with my Makita Impact Wrench and just like yourself, i found the brake shoe springs a pain getting them back on haha. Got away with out bleeding the brakes and it Passed it's MOT no problem !
@@monkey-hut I want to see first what exactly the damage is. My hope is... only the TWO wire cables leading to the brakes are rusty... (and not the ONE cable from the EPB "black box"...) 🤕
Thank you for your video and well done on getting the job done. I have a mk6 fiesta and my brake shoes need replacing for it's MOT. Just wanted to ask you, where did you get the device for getting the brake drum off please ? And what is it called please ? Thanks
