My name's Dom and I often work on my Skyline or Stagea and every so often I make a video. I am more active on CarThrottle, where I sort of have a blog. www.carthrottle.com/user/1dom/
I have one bought new in 2014. The driver door lever broke years ago (common issue), the door interior vinyl came off so it had to be repaired and years ago the oil cooler started to leak and was replaced. And that’s it in all those years
Part of the reason of the review was that the previous owner wants to buy it back - he told me about his plans to upgrade to the Veloce seats and steering wheel, so now I'll keep an eye out for those parts.
Have you replaced the gearbox oil? Probably good to do that every 100,000KMs. Makes shifting much smoother. Getting it into first gear is much easier. The gearbox oil does deteriorate and is known cause damage to the gearbox. For the service intervals, I think the original owners manual said 24 months. However I believe this was reduced later to 12 months or 10,000kms (whichever is earlier) due to old oil having a tendency to destroy the turbo bearings. So a little extra work to save you having to replace the turbo is a good trade-off.
It was one of the first things I did after the short-shifter kit. The short shifter made the gear changes feel more crunchy, so it was almost a requirement but I have thought of getting the engine gearbox reconditioned. If only my other car wasn't eating my funds getting a V8.
@@tino5801 Yeah, I imagine so. There would be no harm in changing the gearbox oil more often. I'm planning on changing this oil every 50,000. It's an easier job than changing transmission oil and filter. The only difficult bit is having the tools. The filler plug takes a 12mm hex key. It's right at the back of the engine and you need a ratchet set with an angle extension and a few other extension bars to get to it. You'd also need a long tube to get the oil into the hole (the gear oil I bought came with one which was nice). The drain plug also takes a 12mm hex key and it's easy to get to. But there's not enough space in front of it to fit a socket set to it. I bought a 12mm allen key, cut off a piece of it, and used that with a spanner to take it out.
Yeah i already did, with Fuchs Titan Sintofluid FE 75W. It did not help much tho. I bought my 2012 QV with 150000km on the odo. Only 1st and 2nd gear changes are crunchy, especially when cold. I test drove 3 QVs and the one i bought was in the best condition, but the gearbox not so much. One of them was from 2011, the gear change was really smooth. You could put it in 1st with 2 fingers while rolling with 20kmh, i wonder if that one already had the improved/upgraded synchros?! I have replaced dot4 clutch fluid as well. The c635 gearbox is known for the bad syncros of the 1st and 2nd gear. I plan to do a overhaul on mine when the clutch needs a replacement, but the thing is: when?😂
Hi Dom, they are a cracking car, but unfortunately we bought a bad one , we didn't spot blown head gasket till after 3 months warranty had expired. Sent it to a garage that wasn't up to the job, and it came back 5 months later with engine in bits, now it just sitting on my driveway waiting for a second hand engine but they are more expensive than buying a full car.
Sorry to hear that. I have heard a few bad stories, but not many - especially not compared to other sports cars. I believe Jay Emm (UK youtuber) had a bad one as well, but these are very common in my neighbourhood and very uncommon in the wrecker's.
do you have any idea how to synchronise timing? Most likely due to worn variator, timing belt skipped a tooth or 2 and now i'am getting bunch of codes, are locking tools gonna be any help with that? and are there any markings on crankshaft or camshafts that indicate proper positions of cams?
The locking tools will keep them at the correct angle since they align the camshafts, not the gear wheels. Normally there aren't markings on the gears unless a mechanic has replaced the belt in the past without the locking tools. You could get the cams into the correct position by lining up the camshafts at the rear of the engine with the positions that the locking tools leave the cams, but they could end up 180 degrees out, and you also need to align the crankshaft. I'd recommend buying all the locking tools for your situation.
@@domsdriveway1282 its essential what i ended up doing, got the locking tools, camshafts where in correct position, but crankshaft wast out by 1 or 2 teeth, got the belt out set crank to correct position according to crankshaft locking tool and everything is working fine. Side note did you have to replace your vacuum pump seal after reassembling everything because mine started to leak oil after. Also thanks for the vid it helped me a lot
You might need to check with an OBDII scanner in case removing it threw any codes, but if you're unsure then you can disconnect the battery and hold the brake pedal for a few seconds and then re-connect the battery to do a hard-reset.
@@domsdriveway1282 nice i want to buy used one with 174000km on it. but whoever I ask about the durability and reliability of the engine, no one knows anything to tell... before I had a MiTo 1.3 which was lightly tuned and served me for 5 years, so now I'm looking for an ideal replacement. Thank you
@@domsdriveway1282 And one more question do you have any advice does I need to look something special on qv (for example timings, turbo etc) i mean for some factory bad part.
The camshafts stay in place with locking tools. The gears are timed using the belt at maximum tension, then locked to the camshafts with a very tight tension.
In the city I annoyed everyone around me by only using EV mode to not use fuel, so about 0L/100km until the engine kicks in. Combined was around 5L/100Km, while my 1.8L Corolla (not hybrid) was getting 5.7L highway.
The car is at a point where I like it, but if anything I'd invest in some new tyres (has Pirelli front, Continental rear due to a flat), and maybe a "stage" tune at a Euro garage.
got a 2kr, fell in love. got a 3ln...3... lemon. finally sorted it out. valve seats are stuffed from factory... five heads, all the same issue. currently servicing and swapping them out on mates bikes. so far, all "carb" issues are suddenly fixed.. had to tool up, as trust me... no shop can service these heads. not properly, anyway. got a 3ln1 in the shed and another frame and donk... main goal... supercharger. ideal, the alternator is basically an after thought, can slip a belt in behind the flywheel and make it all neat... nothing else as suitable. start finding annoying things like the change of valve stem diameters, the change of carbs between 2kr, 3ln1 and 3, etc... thinking about maybe shoving 400 valves in a head... just for giggles...
Wow, great video and explanations, I just bought a 2014 QV Giulietta like this here in NZ too, and usually love doing work on my cars, but this looks extraordinarily difficult to access everything, so I'm leaving it to my mechanic, sadly. Good bit of lateral thinking though man with those methods. 👍
It was a naturally aspirated engine so I used the hoses supplied with the turbo kit. The blanking plates on the block just need to be drilled with the right tap size to fit the nipple flange.
