Paint was mixed based on the original color What kind of vanish you mean? There is no vanish on this helmet :) to make it old, Iused brown wash technique with normal acrylic paint.

Thank you :)

Most m42s did not have any decals. Sometimes there was only one on the left Heer, Luftwaffe and on the right Waffen-SS, but this was for early production. Only the police had double decals on the M42. As for the color of the Wehrmacht Heer, it was late matte Feld Grau. with a texture that can easily be made with aluminum filings.

It depends on the quality of your liner. if it's made of really good leather. you can use sandpaper and, for example, wd40 or other oil that does not turn rancid, then you can use water with salt on the tights to harden the leather a bit and give it a sweaty effect

You can use glue a little bit inside, but in M16 horns are big. You schould use front part of hammer inside helmet, to hammer down air vents.

@@WW-2ube please make a tutorial to put the name on the german stahlhelm

@@Dam_ramsa__ it's not that difficult. type "Swabacha font" into Google. you take a small modeling brush and just paint.

@@0815Catgus you can use fosforic acid. It's safer for beginers.

Yes, I did. Remember, after the acid you have to put it in baking soda

@@WW-2ube ty, i did. Its a helmet from a river with a lot of Crusted mud on the inside, sadly its very hard to get out nearly impossible without damaging the helmet. So im just going to leave it as it is and seal it with candle wax.

@@0815Catgus Remember, before waxing you must clean it from rust. If you don't do it, rust will progresing all the timeand finaly totaly destroy your helmet. In mud ther is no or less oxygen. That's why when you pick it you from wstęp or from mud it's start toget more rusty.

@@WW-2ube i cleaned most of it some rust bubbles sadly remain but nothing major, i think its enough

@@WW-2ube ty for all the help

Hello, sandpaper only works superficially. you need to remove all the rust otherwise it will continue to oxidize. if you have never used oxalic acid before, I suggest using phosphoric acid. if you keep the helmet in oxalic acid for too long, it will go into the structure of the metal and can damage it. phosphoric acid is safer for beginners.

Thank you :) soon you will see more helmets :)

Hello, thank you for comment :) I have a list, write the number in the comment and I will try to check which formation it belonged to. Soon you will see more helmets in my channel :)

Please read the video description. At home without the use of special tools.

@@WW-2ube The vents never look right when "glued" in and not pressed in. So it' still a big no..

@@Eric_Von_Yesselstyn unfortunately I don't agree with that. there is no difference from the outside. absolutely none. inside the rivets are so small that after painting and inserting the liner you can't see the difference. If you will left messanger contact i will send you a photos of ,,fake" and oryginal vemts. Try to guess witch is witch :)

I believe I'm gonna leave my original vent holes in place, clean them the best I can.

@@WW-2ube Back side of the vent inside the shell, you sure can tell, not slightly flared, just straight... Unless you glop the paint on it there, you won't be able to hide it.

Yes it was on rust, but after cleaning nothing was left. Otherwise, of course, it would have been preserved.

@@WW-2ube Well. Awesome restoration anyways! By the way, where do you buy WW2 stuff? And for how much dif you buy that helmet?

@@KingSquidWarthunder Well im from Poland. We have a lot of WW2 stuff here :) im collecting them from more than 30 years. I have my sorces :) You can buy the helmet for 30$, but you can pay also 3000$. It all depends on the condition. You can buy it on fb groups. Antics market. Auctions. There is many, many places :)

@@KingSquidWarthunder soon you will see more helmets :)

Hello :) You can age the liner with leather blacker or rust dust..You can use also WD40 to make it darker. Use g2000 sandpaper on the edges. I will make a video about liner and camo. Before applying the camo, you can use something greasy on the helmet in various places. When it dries, the paint will come off from the greasy places. There will be a chipped paint effect. Than you can try delicate black wash.

@@WW-2ube Thank you, your help is very much appreciated, if you want, I can send you some pictures of how the helmet turned out after completion

Of course, tell me how to find you by facebook or messanger.

@@WW-2ube do you have a ig?

vinegar is much more expensive and less effective. depends of vinegar type. 20 liters of vinegar, several hours, the smell is terrible :)

Each cross was made of three parts. if it is pressed from one or two, it is a fake. You are right the crosses are magnetic. The core of the cross was cast from cast iron. That's why we call it the Iron Cross.

@@WW-2ube Cheers!....I read somewhere that people were making the middle part not of iron...and Im thinking..what could possibly be cheaper than iron?....Isnt the planet made of iron?... I suppose other perhaps no-magnetic metals could be easier to work. Whats the third part?..the ring that holds the ribbon?

@@projektkobra2247 The WWI frame was made of silver in 99% of cases, while the WWII crosses were usually thickly silvered brass. In the crosses of the First and Second World War, the ring was usually made of silver.

@@WW-2ube -So the ring is the third "part"?..

@@projektkobra2247 no, it was two frames. Front and back plus Iron core. The ring and the ribbon is another part of the Iron Cross

Hi, wc cleaner has limescale and rust removal properties. That's why some people use it. I believe, however, that oxalic acid itself is strong enough to penetrate metal that it is enough. Too much chemistry can breach the safe barrier. You can also use phosphoric acid it is safer than oxalic acid but it can remove the original paint and the helmet is matte. You need to be careful.

Sorry for question, can i use some sandpaper instead of acid?

​@@Macinatorecazzarono, that's also going to destroy the paint. The acid is not that expensive