Hello everyone, In this channel I will show you how to restore the World War II helmets at home without any special tools. Follow me to see how we can bring the old items back to life.
This channel is for entertainment and historical value. We do not promote any totalitarian ideology including Nazism or Communism.
Paint was mixed based on the original color What kind of vanish you mean? There is no vanish on this helmet :) to make it old, Iused brown wash technique with normal acrylic paint.
I just picked up an M42 from IMA. It has the worst color and no texturing, gonna strip it. What color would a basic Wehrmacht helmet be from that period? Also, to I texture the split pins as well? And M42s were double decal right?
Most m42s did not have any decals. Sometimes there was only one on the left Heer, Luftwaffe and on the right Waffen-SS, but this was for early production. Only the police had double decals on the M42. As for the color of the Wehrmacht Heer, it was late matte Feld Grau. with a texture that can easily be made with aluminum filings.
It depends on the quality of your liner. if it's made of really good leather. you can use sandpaper and, for example, wd40 or other oil that does not turn rancid, then you can use water with salt on the tights to harden the leather a bit and give it a sweaty effect
@@WW-2ube ty, i did. Its a helmet from a river with a lot of Crusted mud on the inside, sadly its very hard to get out nearly impossible without damaging the helmet. So im just going to leave it as it is and seal it with candle wax.
@@0815Catgus Remember, before waxing you must clean it from rust. If you don't do it, rust will progresing all the timeand finaly totaly destroy your helmet. In mud ther is no or less oxygen. That's why when you pick it you from wstęp or from mud it's start toget more rusty.
Hello, sandpaper only works superficially. you need to remove all the rust otherwise it will continue to oxidize. if you have never used oxalic acid before, I suggest using phosphoric acid. if you keep the helmet in oxalic acid for too long, it will go into the structure of the metal and can damage it. phosphoric acid is safer for beginners.
Great video in my opinion. I've actually got me a relic M35 shell coming from Slovenia that is rusted but appears to be in very good condition to restore myself, hope I can find some numbers in it after I clean it well. Again thank you
Hello, thank you for comment :) I have a list, write the number in the comment and I will try to check which formation it belonged to. Soon you will see more helmets in my channel :)
@@Eric_Von_Yesselstyn unfortunately I don't agree with that. there is no difference from the outside. absolutely none. inside the rivets are so small that after painting and inserting the liner you can't see the difference. If you will left messanger contact i will send you a photos of ,,fake" and oryginal vemts. Try to guess witch is witch :)
@@WW-2ube Back side of the vent inside the shell, you sure can tell, not slightly flared, just straight... Unless you glop the paint on it there, you won't be able to hide it.
@@KingSquidWarthunder Well im from Poland. We have a lot of WW2 stuff here :) im collecting them from more than 30 years. I have my sorces :) You can buy the helmet for 30$, but you can pay also 3000$. It all depends on the condition. You can buy it on fb groups. Antics market. Auctions. There is many, many places :)
Very impressive, i'm glad you kept most of the original parts. So far i've been only restoring post war reissue german helmets from czech or norwegians.
Hello, right now I am repainting German m35 helmet, I sprayed snow camo on the helmet, do you have any tips, how can I age the liner and the helmet overall?
Hello :) You can age the liner with leather blacker or rust dust..You can use also WD40 to make it darker. Use g2000 sandpaper on the edges. I will make a video about liner and camo. Before applying the camo, you can use something greasy on the helmet in various places. When it dries, the paint will come off from the greasy places. There will be a chipped paint effect. Than you can try delicate black wash.
Just got an IC 2nd class...KO marked...I know the interest in fake Imperial ones is low, unlike the WW2 ones...Anyway. silver outer cross, magnetic interior (the iron part). What else can I be looking for I wonder. I got it cuz Id seen someone with one with their Princess Mary Tin..I thought that would be a good combination for me as well, as I had family on both sides.
Each cross was made of three parts. if it is pressed from one or two, it is a fake. You are right the crosses are magnetic. The core of the cross was cast from cast iron. That's why we call it the Iron Cross.
@@WW-2ube Cheers!....I read somewhere that people were making the middle part not of iron...and Im thinking..what could possibly be cheaper than iron?....Isnt the planet made of iron?... I suppose other perhaps no-magnetic metals could be easier to work. Whats the third part?..the ring that holds the ribbon?
@@projektkobra2247 The WWI frame was made of silver in 99% of cases, while the WWII crosses were usually thickly silvered brass. In the crosses of the First and Second World War, the ring was usually made of silver.
Hi, wc cleaner has limescale and rust removal properties. That's why some people use it. I believe, however, that oxalic acid itself is strong enough to penetrate metal that it is enough. Too much chemistry can breach the safe barrier. You can also use phosphoric acid it is safer than oxalic acid but it can remove the original paint and the helmet is matte. You need to be careful.