A new, exciting, racing experience in Winchester Virginia. A large clay off road track with a hobby store! Adrenaline RC Racing brings thrill to participating in competitive RC racing.Helping people develop an activity or hobby that yields fun & community is a true joy! www.adrenalinercracing.com
Yes great video if you could sometime I would like to see a video on things in the radio that 1/8 scale racers do and don't need in these new radios a lot of people including myself don't know what's useable or what's not useable.
Love how the last months the content is flowing here please keep more videos coming I’m looking forward to get into buggy 2wd 1/10 scale soon so if you can create some sort of content regarding this category will be amazing looking forward so visit you guys and learn more cheers keep un the good videos 😊
Thanks! I definitely have a lot coming up so stay tuned! A lot of the tuning videos that I’ve done so far will translate to 2wd as well but I’ll try to do some stuff more specific in the future
@@Adrenalinercracing if you ever need any motion graphics animation, video or even photography I will be glad to help I love making content for RC world and the community cheers and I will keep an eye on the new content
Arms flat is definitely a great way to do this also and is something I would say is more specific to the 1/10 scene since there arent any droop screws on those, both options work though
Thanks for the video. I will stick to my tried and tested way using Simple Green. Don't need to spend 10x more to clean my car. I actually enjoy the process so spending a bit more time than money suits me perfectly and I don't have an infinite budget for chemicals. Simple Green, Silicone spray. Thanks again. Product looks good though.
Simple green is definitely still a solid option to use especially with the silicon backing or some form of oil based spray to keep the plastics in good shape. Thanks for the feedback!
Great video. I have a Futaba. Still learning all the different functions on it. Still trying to figure out what each one does. Looking forward to more of these videos.
I used to do this. Now I don’t have the time. I just blow most of the dust off with an air gun, rinse gently with a hose, dry with an 18v blower then give them a spray with wd40.
So instead of centering the steering assembly with the radio why wouldnt u center it with the turnbuckle that goes from the servo to steering assembly? Honest question.
For this tutorial I wanted to keep it relatively straightforward but you are 100% correct you can use the main linkage to help center the steering. You will be able to get it closer but still need to trim the steering potentially because if the linkage is to short or to long it could result in not getting enough throw one way or the other. The reason for this is because depending on the length of the linkage you could hit the servo itself trying to set your endpoints. I will most likely release a more detailed ‘advanced’ centering process in the future detailing this. As a quick run down though I will measure the linkage to the factory recommendation and see how far off the steering rack is and only adjust it a couple mm to prevent having the issue of hitting the servo, my goal being to have the trim on the radio less than 50 points left or right but it some cases it isn’t possible and I just try to get as close as I can. Hope this helps!
@@Adrenalinercracing I see so I guess as long as the linkage between the servo and the steering assembly is within manual spec I could just use the trim on the radio sounds good and simple to me. Thanks.
Is it a good idea to run with no sway bars at all on a loose loamy outdoor clay track that's closer to a 1/10 size (No high speed sweepers here- mostly zig zags and jumps) that does get fairly bumpy by main time? Is that ever an option folks ever use? (I'm looking for more rear grip, seems to rotate and steer well) Or would lighter swaybars be the choice?
Very rarely will you run no sway bars at all but I have personally run no front bar before to get more steering. Most times to keep the car feeling consistent around the track you could keep the front bar on but go to the lightest option available. If you are working with a 1/8 vehicle a good starting place for sway bars would be 2.2mm front and 2.4mm rear for a good balanced setup. There are lots of factors that could play into the care feeling like it is to loose whether it be diffs, shocks, tires, camberlink positions, toe, and antisquat. Let me know what vehicle you are using and some more info on the track type and I will see if I can get you a good baseline setup to use!
Appreciate the vids. I'm about 8 mos in to racing and getting out of the "drive drive drive and don't crash" phase and into the starting to identify what I want the car to do differently phase. Really appreciate the descriptions- finally all starting to make sense to me!
Good vid. You should mention how it affects under/over steering. Toe out, which is most common, just tries to counteract understeer and feel more responsive.
I see this at my local track all the time. When you flick the wheel on the radio. Why is it vibrating when returning to center and how do I achieve this?
The vibrations come from a high speed servo in combination with a fast response radio. What you are truly seeing is the steering wheel vibration on the radio itself being translated to the vehicle. To achieve this you would need mostly the fast response radio like the M17 I use in this video and then the level of vibration you see in the car will depend on what servo you are running
I did forget to mention it during the time specifically but the reference to use for pillow ball setups would be that when the movement stops, similar to what the knuckle does in the video, you can use the method of ‘feeling for play’ as seen in the video to identify your full throw end point
I use the Plano Double Cover Lock Jaw which can be found here : www.pelicansalessupply.com/products/plano-double-cover-lockjaw-organizer?variant=46840873910592¤cy=USD&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4a2BhD6ARIsALgH7DoVapqFdL8xa-u_UFA_Ee90bvkkl2URlHaq4K_ld-PkAw2QvW6zPmgaAiTEEALw_wcB
The videos is nice , but for your next one , please have a car ready and powered up to show the effect of the function. It will be easier to understand for most newcomers. 😊 Keep up the good work Adrenaline
Yes, in a later video i'm going to go over how to set each function with my car that way there is a visual representation. In this video I wanted to specifically just go over what each change would do. Glad you are enjoying the content!
I got the NB4+ and changed the background to the “white” setting. I don’t remember if the regular NB4 can do this, but it helps to have a lighter background.
I personally haven’t had any issues with being able to read the screen outside during the day at all but that could be different person to person for sure
I understand from a separate video that there are also pit spaces in the track building itself. Are those equivalent to pit spaces in the shop and would they also have to be reserved?
Correct, I can save pit spaces both inside and trackside, whichever you prefer. Reserving a pit space isn’t required but it will guarantee you a spot. Based on the time of year it will probably be a beautiful weekend to pit outside also.
@@Adrenalinercracing I see. I prefer to be close to the track, so I would appreciate if you could reserve for me a trackside pit space (name is Reinaldo Vega). Thanks!
Can you clarify by what you mean a pit space in the shop? Is this for us who don't have a pit trailer? If so, I am planning on attending and will need a pit space :)
Pit spaces in the shop will already have table and electric if you didnt want to setup a tent outside and can be reserved. I will mark you down for a pit space!
