These are vids I make about what I'm focused on at the time. They will usually be about working on cars, but don't be surprised to see the random oddball video now and again.
I have a question so I’m currently putting together my 93 Dakota v6 cause I had to replace heads I was wondering if you could show me where all the hookups to the intake manifold go it would help me out so much
If my dodge/plymouth neon engine or at least I think it was, But was lied to from the junk yard. Because the junkyard said, it was in a 1995 neon. so the say that, but then why would it have the aluminum pan that was from 2000 to 2005. So someone switched the engine. I just need to know what year it's from, to make sure it's not the changed cam & crank type sensors and assembly they read Because if it is the first year of the second gen. can I change it back to analog magnetic sensor from the digital one? and same with the crank can I change it back from digital hall effect signal that produces those on/off pulses and on has the ring to read on the block itself however that works compared to the ring being on the flywheel. Yeah I know that does sound to hard to change over so I guess I wasted the money . Maybe they lied about the engine being under 100 thousand miles too! the markings if the starter were removed and the block is cleaned up under the frost plug it reads D N THEN UNDER THAT IT READS 0-07-0 UNDER THAT IT READS 9 AND OVER FROM THAT READS AZ DOES ANY OF THESE NUMBERS MEAN ANYTHING. It does have the aluminum pan so the only hope I got is they didn't make these digital changes on the first 2000 year and the next and hope it's a 2000 year or 2001.
Yes , leave the oil that's stuck to the car, best under coating you can have. 150 dollar engine is a pretty good deal wow, of Coase it was back in 2016
This is great. The fact that I found, someone doing a engine in and out on a 1995 doge neon. The good part about it, is your explanting the differences in the 1995 & 96 . I wanted to find a 1995 engine so it would be less sensor changing over, as I guess the 1995's sensor plug-in's were diff. in 96. &up. I didn't recall you saying much about that. But a lot of good stuff about taking an engine out. and oil leaks. I had all the oil come out, "my", timing cover/ I guess it was that, I didn't fix it. Hired it done. But driving it with no oil , didn't help it and within 10,000 more miles, I'm changing it. But it's impossible to find a real 1995 engine. at least with out 200,000 miles on it. So a junkyard lied to me, on the phone. I drove 4 hours 1 way 4 hrs back, and it was one with an aluminum oil pan.(they stated 1995) I don't recall the 1st year for that aluminum pan. But It also had something wrong with identifying it from the # on block. I brought it home not knowing all this as they swore up and down, it' out of a 1995. The engine I came home with, could be the last year before they changed the crankshaft sensor , I haven't had time to see how bad I got scammed. Best scenario, It's a good engine that's still the first generation and will work. But doesn't look good as the oil pan is pushed out like it had water in it, in the winter. I'm going to check out the 3rd video thks for the info
Nah. I stopped driving it a while back, then "borrowed" parts off it to fix someone else's truck and never bothered to order replacement parts for it. I'm sure I COULD get it going again, but between the rusted out frame and the other vehicles I have, I don't really need to get it going again. I'm actually going to pull the bed off to replace the bed on a trailer in the next few weeks, then scrap it.
I've had the opposite experience with my XTool D8 Scanner they ADDED features since I've owned it for free. They added Topology scanning and added 15 Special Functions from 23 to 38. IMO XTool has the best scanners for the $ and even has longer free update periods compared to Autel and stuff.
I sent back my Xtool D8S because most of the special functions only work on a few vehicles. Topology is great, but again depends on the vehicle. It may only display and scan 3 or 4 modules. Xtool is overrated
I paid for a product with a feature to deal with an annoying light on my dash. Now that product doesn't have that feature because they either unintentionally or maliciously removed it. That means I no longer have the product I paid for. Are you implying that you would be perfectly fine with something you paid several hundred dollars for suddenly no longer being capable of a feature you specifically bought it for? More importantly, if they don't care that it's lost that feature, what is the next feature they will be fine with the device loosing in the next few updates? How long before the device becomes virtually inoperable? At what point will I have a several hundred dollar piece of e-waste paperweight? By your reaction, I would guess that you also work for one of these unscrupulous companies and are simply playing p.r. damage control with a comment like that.
@@tragedytm6975 Because that was one of several functions I needed that a simple, non-bi-directional bluetooth dongle couldn't even read, let alone alter. That wasn't the only thing I bought it for though. I also bought it to diagnose abs and srs faults in my vehicles, as well as the vehicles of friends and family that I've been working on. Being able to diagnose a fault in the abs system due to a bad wheel speed sensor, or finding out which impact sensor for the srs systems is causing the airbag light allowed me to fix problems I would otherwise not have been able. The ability to activate various solenoids for testing during fault diagnosis was also a function that I bought it for. Now I'm in limbo as to when each of those functions will stop working, making the several hundred dollar scanner less and less advantageous when compared to the $20 amazon bluetooth obd2 adapter that I pair with Torque on my smartphone for reading basic trouble codes. It's like buying a computer, only to loose the ability to write to a usb drive. Sure, I can still use it for other things, and can still read the drive, but it's still a pain in the ass to know I now have to buy another computer to do a simple, basic function that the computer came with when I bought it.
I’ve had a similar situation with another brand scanner. Where they would dumb it down after they suckered you into buying. Usually an upgraded product was available with the same features you paid for but they removed. My credit card company had a warranty policy if things broke and it was still under warranty (plus one year extra) they would refund the money if I sent it to them. I used it and they refunded my money.
That is absolutely something that I plan to keep in mind for the future when I replace this scan tool with one from a company that can actually translate their software to english properly.
Well I haven't seen too many people making videos warning people about the company and their products, so hopefully this helps the next guy who is considering buying one.
I bought a used Launch scanner to check my wife’s 2010 ram 1500. Somehow there was an error when deleting the codes it screwed up my BCM and it wiped out the tail lights on the truck……. Now they don’t work. I was unable to connect the problem and had to make a new wiring harness and plug into the trailer hitch in order to get them to work……… Scanners are complete junk
Thankfully I haven't had that problem, but after conversing with the Launch customer support, I've come to lean that they'd rather send out new products to people, rather than rolling back or combing through and fixing their broken software. They're sending me THEIR OWN branded tpm sensors and another tool to avoid fixing the software issue on the scanner.
I wonder if someone were to cause the grease to drop out and replace it with dielectric grease if this would stay in place. Been thinking about trying this on a computer but like some have said it could creep and fry the motherboard
I would suggest some sort of conformal coating or foam gasket or some other means of keeping it in place similar to what people would do with preventing condensation failure when cooling with LN2. That would be the only way I'd risk using it long term. Running it for a few hrs or days until you can get regular thermal paste is risky enough.
That is the egr valve feed tube, coming from the exhaust manifold. I know that because 1, I am fully capable of recognizing what a smog pump is, and what an egr valve is, and 2, the round hole directly above it, full of black soot, is where the tube feeds into the egr valve before entering the intake manifold through the rectangular port behind it when commanded by the ecu.
@@hellcat1988 ok then how was mine hooked up to the smog pump on my 89 tbi which up to late 92 was the same block as what u n me both have different intakes. So it's nothing to do with the EGR it's all smog. Cuz trust me I'd be more than glad to show ya or I can ya. U have two rub lines which looks like rad hoses which go from a smog pump which belt driven. That metal line connects not just both sides of the exhaust manifolds but also runs into ur cat. Try again. How do I know this, I own a Dakota sport 3.9
@@1992hotrod Do yourself a favor and google 92 dodge dakota 3.9L magnum egr valve. Then maybe take a breath, watch the multiple videos or look at the multiple diagrams showing that the dakota 3.9l magnum in 92 DOESN'T have a smog pump, DOES have an egr valve, and it's on the back of the intake manifold, fed by the pipe off the exhaust, exactly like I said it is. The 91 DOES have a smog pump. The block being the same doesn't matter because it's the INTAKE that the egr is plumbed into. Another difference is that the 92 dakota 3.9l had MULTIPORT injection, not TBI like the 91. Google the chrysler LA engine wiki and do some dam reading, look at a few pictures, and maybe get your facts straight.
That's the only part of the video I saved. One of the people who stopped as I was crawling out of the crash managed to find it, as it was an old cell phone with a silver body in a suction-cup windshield mount, so it kind of stood out.
So I've been told, but I walked away. I have a hip joint that hurts every now and again, from the impact jamming my leg on the dash, but otherwise I'm doing fine.
Because I haven't had anything worth uploading happen and I'm not one of those idiots who need validation through constant interaction in the comments from their content.
Cheers bud. I knew how to do it, but I always like to watch a video first to see if they say bolt and nut sizes. Thats one of the most helpful things for getting ready to work on something.
I was really hoping you showed like like I was hoping it was going to be a tutorial because I just blew the head gasket in my 93 Dodge Dakota a V6 and I really need to know how because I've never taken an engine apart before
If you haven't ever taken an engine apart before, I advise you NOT do do it unless you have someone experienced helping you, or at least very close by so you can have them come and advise you when you get hung up. There are also several tools, like a torque wrench, that you will need to be sure to reassemble it correctly, that most first timers don't have. You might just be better off trying to find an experienced friend you can bribe with a case of beer and pizza to help you.
You. Thank you man... So I found Locktite Nikel Anti-Seize 2400F, Also we have the Copper Antiseize aswell. old stuff like yours. Going to test on: HP 8300 Elite usff - core i-5.
That was better than I expected. I expected it to be like the photos you would find in like a Google search along the lines of “brutal car crashes” I honestly half expected it to be like crushed and mangled and shit
They actually crushed the cab more when they rolled it back over. Before they flipped it on it's wheels again, the seat didn't hit the roof when you flipped it forward.
Been doing alright. My left hip still gives me pains from time to time, but as far as I can tell, that's the only thing even mildly long term about it.
Well I can't exactly hold a camera while I'm working, and if you can't figure out how to remove it just by looking it over carefully, you have no business working on it in the first place. This wheel bearing setup is pretty much the most simple designs to remove possible, and one of the easiest to remove, if you actually look at it closely before you start working on it.
you still around? i got to the head bolts and loosened them up (i have an 01 dakota sport 4x4 3.9l v6 with a blown head gasket) not sure if i have to take anything off the front face of the engine holding the head in place: In other words, what all is holding those two cylinder heads in place other than the head bolts under the rockers and pushrods?
Some of the accessories or accessory mount brackets are bolted to both the head and the block, so you'll need to remove them. The exhaust manifolds are also a good idea to remove. Finally, the intake plenum is bolted to both and will need new gaskets. (add a dab of silicone to the edges of the cork intake gaskets where they meet the heads to get a better oil seal when reassembling) To get the intake off, you'll need to get the fuel rail disconnected from the fuel lines, or leave the lines connected and unbolt the fuel rail from the intake. I don't recommend the second option, but it'd what I had to do because I couldn't get the fuel lines to let go. You'll also need to get the throttle linkage disconnected and out of the way. The egr tube is on the back of the engine, if I remember correctly, and that's a bit of a pain to disconnect, but it also has to come loose if I remember correctly. To save yourself from breaking it, I also recommend taking the oil pressure sending unit off the engine before removing the intake. It's the sensor on the back of the engine next to where the egr tube goes into the intake manifold. Just remember to put it back in before starting the truck or you'll spray oil everywhere. You can borrow a water heater element socket from many small local mom and pop hardware stores to be able to get it out and back in. Just make sure you get the right size. Finally, before you even bother to get too far into the teardown, I absolutely recommend trying to find the cast aluminum radiator tube outlet as shown in this video. It solves a long running issue with this engine where the stamped part doesn't seal well and causes radiator leaks, which leads to overheating, which leads to warped heads, which leads to blown head gaskets.
@@hellcat1988 thank you i appreciate your insight. Another question, i see that full heads are on sale for our engine at autozone for $330 each basically and they come machined and whatnot. if i find warpage on my head with this .015 feeler gauge i have and can’t even it up, will it be cheaper to buy 2 new heads then two machine 2 old heads? if i install new heads do i have to crank a pulley, rotate the engine, and ‘reset’ the timing a certain way or is it just plug ‘n play in the sense of just bolting new heads on without adjusting time?
@@hellcat1988 also im so grateful you answered in the first place both me and my buddy you’re like the only guy with good understanding of this neglected ass 3.9l
@@glenmorebarchan You always want to go over new heads with a fine tooth comb and make sure that all the valves are seating properly, that the valve keepers are in place, that there isn't any assembly or casting debris anywhere, and that they are flat and even. There are a few videos on youtube showing what you should do first when buying new heads to help you with that. I have no experience with having heads machined, as I've never bothered to do that. For me, with older vehicles, it's always been cheaper to just buy a whole new engine out of a junkyard than to dig down into the engine and have parts blueprinted at a shop. Any time that you've taken the heads off, you'll need to make sure you have all the timing marks lined up during assembly or you're gonna have a bad time, and maybe bent valves.
If you have a compression tester and/or a radiator pressure tester, use them. Find out if your misfire is from the head gasket leaking into the cooling system by pressurizing the cooling system with the engine cold. If it doesn't loose pressure after a good 15 minute test, and you don't have low compression on the cylinders in question with a compression tester, as long as those piston rings are in decent shape, disconnect the fuel injectors and see if your problem gets worse or better. If those cylinders completely drop out, it's likely not your injectors either. If there is no change, it could be a problem with the fuel system. The last thing to check would be your spark plugs, spark plug wires, and distributor. If ALL of those checks come back good, then pull your valve cover on that side and rotate the engine with a socket on the crank shaft bolt to make sure that your push rods are opening the valves properly, and to the correct depth. That is the quickest and cheapest series of checks to try and figure out what might be causing your misfire without tearing the engine apart.
@@joshua-the-seer8494 You should be able to rent a radiator pressure test kit from O'reilly auto parts for a day, and they'll return the money to you once you return the tool, provided you bring it back in a reasonable amount of time. Don't keep it for a week, in other words. Failing that, you can buy one from Harbor Freight, but that's generally not a great option unless you do a lot of cooling system diagnostic work and need the tool on a semi-regular basis. Just be sure to take the spark plugs out of the cylinders and spin the engine over to clear any water that might be forced past the head gasket if it has failed, or you could hydrolock your engine and cause serious damage. Milky colored oil or a sweetish smelling exhaust with bluish smoke are also indicators of a failed head gasket.
Followed your advice and had a go. To find out that the anti-seize eventually liquify enough and creeps onto other parts of the board. Mine is vertically standing, dripped and shorted the mainboard to its death and so can't really recommend
They weren't burnt. They just had a heavy deposit layer. The truck ran fine for a long while after that. Still would, if I put the accessories I scavenged off the engine for other vehicles back on it. It's the only vehicle I've ever owned that I would stake my very life on starting every time I turned the key.
It works cuz Anti-Seize is a mix of aluminum, lead and grease...All of which are good thermal conductors and not too dissimilar from ingredients used in real thermal paste.
@@hellcat1988 Yeah it looks like the product you have is copper, graphite and grease so it can handle higher temps. copper and graphite are also good thermal conductors. Any of the anti seize compounds probably work well as a thermal compound and all of them are probably slightly inferior to real thermal compound.
just got an alignment done on my car (Intrigue 99 gl) and never noticed this. They "kindly" pointed it out after they charged me for the alignment instead of letting me in on this so I could fix it so my alignment would actually work.
That's one of the MANY reasons I don't like shops. If you're having something like an alignment done, it's best to either do a full visual inspection of your suspension BEFORE you go, or have someone you know and trust do it for you. Having a mechanic friend who can rock the steering wheel back and forth and just tell by the sound if you need suspension work can save you a hell of a lot of money.
Yo, hellcat, followed you from the water video, saw you had the same damn car as me, weird, cuz you're a year older and a tank girl fan, apparently. How the hell do you fix the problem with these? Please tell me you figured it out? They all have the same problem where they just stop while they're driving. No mechanic can tell me what's up. Got any idea what I'm talking about? You've got the same one as me, red and everything.
I haven't had any issues like that with my jeep. Sorry to hear that you haven't found someone who can find the problem. I know a lot of mechanics are typically the "replace parts till it works" type of people, instead of the "find the problem and fix it" type. Can you give me any more information on what it does immediately before and after it dies? Does it only do it when it's at operating temp? That sort of thing. If you're any good at story writing, making a quick short story sort of post describing a typical breakdown of before, during, and after the breakdown when it's working again might help me narrow it down.
@@hellcat1988 Once upon a time there was a very stupid girl who thought a sweet old lady would never scam her. So she bought the old woman's Jeep Cherokee Laredo in late autumn. It was cold, and the car seemed to drive just fine. But summer was coming, because there's only two seasons in Alabama, summer and fall, and the weather started to get warmer. That's when the car, which seemed to be in good condition started to slowly heat up and then just die completely while driving. At first it would take 40 minutes, then as the weather warmed, it would take less and less time after leaving the house for the car to overheat and die. During the hottest part of the summer, it might get five minutes down the road. Sometimes the girl could sit and let it cool for awhile and it would crank back up after ten minutes. If it was cooler, this took less time, if it was warmer, it took longer. She replaced the distributor cap thingy, cut off the catalytic converter, and replaced something else but I've forgotten what it was... She forgot what it was, yeah. Some belt type thingy. Oh, and the car threw out all sorts of different codes every time like it was haunted by a mechanic who was still trying to scam you from the afterlife. There was nothing wrong with the parts the codes were associated with. All fluid and oil levels were fine. Will work fine during the coldest part of winter. Which is like, a week or two out of the year here. The end. My "cousin" had the same car, same problem, but I think he just got rid of his because he couldn't figure it out either. I'm not a quitter. I would like to fix it and rev past the house of the old woman who got me.
@@cocobutter3175 Part 1 : I Need to know the year and if you have a temp light or temp gauge as well to be sure I'm giving you the correct advice, but I'll give it a shot anyway. Keep in mind that these prices and fixes are for a 93 like mine. Ok, first thing I recommend when you get a car, even from someone who "did all the things the shop says" or "did all the things the owners manual says" or "had it tuned up regularly" is to change EVERYTHING involved with a basic tuneup. Spark plugs, plug wires, cap AND rotor, fuel filter, air filter, BRAKES ON ALL 4 CORNERS, and fluids, including radiator and differential fluid. Most people don't bother to read the jug, but radiator fluid is only supposed to be good for 3-5 years. After that, it can loose it's ability to prevent corrosion, and that leads to problems or clogs. Even if you bought it from a shop and they showed you a pile of old parts, I'd rarely ever trust them without looking at the parts ON the vehicle. (and making sure they didn't just scrub the road grime and rust off) Shops and stealerships are NOTORIOUS for ripping off anyone and everyone they can. Second, you were a little vague about if the car overheated to the red line and died or got to normal operating temp and died. If it's the first, overheating to red line before dying, I would suggest having someone who knows how check to make sure that your water pump is actually moving water. If it is, and the fan is spinning with the engine (belt driven fan) or turns on when it reaches the temp the computer calls for (electric fan) then save yourself a LOT of time and wasted effort and just order a cheap, aftermarket radiator, radiator cap (if the aftermarket one doesn't come with a new one) and thermostat, and replace them outright. Sure, you can try to clean the radiator, but most of the time you inevitably just end up having to replace it anyway. The radiator is going to probably be the most expensive part, and the most time consuming to install. It's $73.79 plus shipping from RockAuto, but you might be able to find it cheaper on a different parts supply website, or, if you have the luck of the gods, a cheap but still good one in a junkyard. Over time, radiators can get plugged up with rust, stopleak (if an idiot had their front feet in it) and various other nastiness that builds up in your cooling system for no obvious reason. Replacing the thermostat at the same time probably isn't needed, but you might as well since they're cheap and you'll be under the hood anyway. Same with the radiator cap, as that spring and rubber gasket DO wear out over time. It's also a good time to check the condition of your radiator hoses, and replace them, if need be.
@@cocobutter3175 Part 2 : If it's the second issue of dying at operating temp, which, from your story, I suspect it is, it could be your intake air temperature/charge temperature sensor, M.A.P. sensor, or, less likely, your coolant temp sensor. If you have a coolant temp gauge, and it's working, that's not the problem. If you have a coolant temp light, and it never comes on, make sure the bulb isn't burned out. It should come on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition to accessory, but before you actually crank the motor over to start it. If the bulb is good, but you don't have a way to test if the sensor is actually telling the computer the engine temp, I'd suggest just replacing it. It's $3.16 plus shipping from RockAuto Anything 96 and newer will have an OBD2 port and can be read with a dirt cheap bluetooth diagnostic adapter off amazon or ebay, which I HIGHLY recommend getting to anyone with a car newer than 95, since they are cheap and give real time info, AS WELL as allow you to read the trouble codes, all for free, with an android app called TORQUE. You can use it with your phone or tablet, or even use an android emulator on a laptop. The reason that the intake temperature sensor can cause your engine to die is because when the engine is cold, the computer knows that it's not going to be able to run at peak efficiency, regardless of what the sensors say, so it defaults to a standard "Just get the dam thing running" program map. After it gets closer to operating temp though, it starts to look at the readings it's getting from the sensors. When the intake temperature sensor goes bad, it will either read as dead cold, or melting the engine hot. If the computer thinks the air coming in is too cold, it will dump more fuel into each combustion stroke than it actually needs and flood itself out. If it's reading too hot, it'll send too little fuel and there won't be enough to actually cause an explosion strong enough to move the pistons. Either one is bad. This too can be checked with that obd2 tester if you're lucky enough to have a 96 or newer car. If not, the sensor is $11.43 plus shipping from RockAuto. The coolant temp sensor will cause the same issue, as the engine wants a specific amount of fuel for what the engine temp is to maximize efficiency, and to prevent pre-ignition detonation, where the fuel and air mixture ignites before the spark plug is supposed to light it. This can kick the piston back against the direction the engine wants to turn, and that can make bad things happen REAL quick. The only other sensor that could be causing that problem off the top of my head would be the manifold absolute pressure sensor, but it's less likely. That would cause the same fuel problems, as well as timing issues, as the temp sensors, as if it doesn't know how much air is getting pulled into the engine, it can't give it the correct amount of fuel. Even though the truck has a distributor, it still uses the cam/crank position sensors, throttle position sensor, M.A.P., and temp sensors to try and figure out the most efficient amount of fuel to send to the engine for the amount of power you're demanding. Now comes the cheap and dirty way to check for a sensor problem on any car, newer OR older than 96. If it's doing something it shouldn't while running, start unplugging sensors one at a time, then plugging them back in and moving to the next one, until it quits doing whatever it is it shouldn't. You may need to give it a little rev each time you unplug something to let the computer know something has changed, but often the change in engine operation will be immediately noticeable. If it dies, plug that sensor back in, start it again, and move to a different sensor. If you get through all the sensors and the only time something changed was when you unplugged the sensor and it died, it's probably not that sensor, but it's worth a shot to have it checked out/replace it if it's cheap enough. If it's NOT doing something it SHOULD, like not running when it gets warm, start unplugging sensors as in the previous paragraphs, after it's reached operating temp (but before it dies if you can) until it runs more or less normal when warm. Yes, it really is that simple to diagnose a sensor issue, with even the most modern internal combustion engine car. I'd start with the two temp sensors, for the intake first, then the coolant. Then the map sensor third. One of those SHOULD be the source of your problem, from what you've told me. I will warn you now that just like with home computers, if you ever have to use the word SHOULD when talking about a problem and potential fix, it almost never is. At least in my experience... If you go back and read this post a few times, you'll see that, while I took a long time to explain it, the problem and the tests for it are really pretty simple, and relatively cheap for someone who can do the jobs in their driveway. If you're not sure what the sensors look like, or where they are, look up the parts on a site like RockAuto, where they have pictures of the sensors, then hunt around till you find them on your engine, or buy a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for your vehicle and HOPE that they have a picture that shows where it is. The only other five things that I can think of that would POSSIBLY cause the issue you're talking about, as unlikely as they could be, related to your issue, without actually touching the truck, would be : One, the fuel pump is on it's way out and can't keep up with the demand for fuel. (extremely unlikely since it runs fine cold) Two, your engine has very low compression at operating temp, but that wouldn't give you any overheating issues, if that's what you're having, so I doubt that it's the problem. Three, you have a bad electrical ground somewhere that makes contact when it's cold, but comes loose when the metal warms up and expands. (Pretty damned unlikely) Four, the computer is crapping out and lost it's program map of what it should be doing once it's warm. (EXTREMELY UNLIKELY. We're talking less chance than winning the lotto here...) Fifth, the fuel pressure regulator might be bad, allowing fuel to be sucked strait into the intake. Had that problem on both my jeep and that 92 mazda navajoke in my older videos. It made the mazda run like crap and die all the time, but the jeep didn't really seem to notice it much. You'll usually notice a bit of a strong fuel smell when the engine is at operating temp, or just after shutting it off, if that is your issue. I ask that you keep in mind that I am NOT an A.S.E. certified mechanic, and have mostly learned how to work on cars by DOING it, with very light instruction from my dad/friends/internet over the years on things I had NO idea about. That said, one shade tree mechanic/diagnostician like me is usually good for at least 3-5 school taught parts replacers at a shop. If you get through all of those checks and are still having problems, please let me know and I'll try to help you further. At the very least, please let me know what year it is and if it has a temp gauge. Good luck, and I hope I helped you fix the problem. Oh, and P.S., get a catalytic converter back on there. The engine looks at the exhaust before and after the cat on most fuel injected vehicles to know if it's running too rich or too lean. Probably wouldn't cause your issue that you've asked me about, but can lead to other problems down the road, like poor fuel mileage, carbon buildup, and misfires. Unless you're planning to have an aftermarket E.C.U. installed and programmed not to look for it, you're better off with one than without.
