I don’t. 1/2 inch aluminum rod from Lowe’s welded to a 1/8 inch aluminum plate hand bent the rod cut to fit with a jig saw bolted to skeg and attached to shaft with hose clamps. Has never moved
i just got a trolling motor for my john boat and have a question is there a right and wrong for mounting your motor rear or bow?? from what i’ve researched what motor you have determines your mounting position, but am curious if there’s a reason other than that?? thank you!!
I now have about 220 hrs on the unit. No issues at I change the fluid every year just because it is easy I did have the lower repainted because it was peeling
I now have about 670 hrs total on the boat and I think about 220 hrs or so on the new lower unit No problems at at. I change the fluid every year just because it is easy. I now have a power tech prop and the gear shifting is a lot quieter than a solas prop
I was getting so pissed, how do they expect you to remove it without doing this! there is absolutely no room to do it, glad you posted this, i would have been screwed, thank you.
Thanks for this video. My tiller is shearing the bolts on the top gearbox and broke the top brace as well. Now I am thinking nothing is holding the bottom of the gearbox as there are no heads on those bolts or they fell out. Time to start investigating.
I have a way older version on my 12ft Jon Boat it’s the Motorguide Brute 750 45lbs trust version.. I was wondering has this one held up well for you and do you recommend me upgrading?
Question - when you removed your prop did the forward thrust hub came off easily (the yellow round plate the prop sits on)? My 60hp mercury 2022 prop came off but the hub seems like ceased to the shaft - it should be coming off easily, no? I too was thinking of pulling like you instead of trying to bang it. So if you could provide additional details I would appreciate. Also, did you have to use penetrating oil / liquid wrench at all?
I did not use oil. And my thrust washer was loose I would suggest a wire wheel on a drill clean the shaft good soak with penetrating oil and tap lightly
This IS superior to the way I just did it, it really is because it pulls it true--straight out. But my method worked and without the rigging. I used a rubber hammer--I know, sounds bad, but bear with me. I "tapped" pretty gently as I rotated the prop, each wrap is of course off-set, so as I said, not ideal. But after maybe 50 or less raps, I saw it break free from the seal it had made, then I pulled it straight off.
Nice job explaining the gearbox removal. Had similar seal leak with the pto shaft on my Tarter 5 ft. tiller. Used 00 grease and 85-140 gear oil and it worked until the seal popped out. Removed the pto shaft from the tractor tapped the seal back in and it now does not leak. Please check your your gearcase filler/breather fitting to be certain it is open. Let my tiller sit for a year and when I checked the chaincase fill level plug it was still under a great deal of pressure and it shot out some gear oil! That much pressure could cause a leak or pop a seal maybe, Thanks!
I am having a heck of a time right now getting that bottom piece on the plunger to unscrew All rusted up and now I have it in my electrolysis bucket. Most likely will have to order a new plunger too... :(
I used a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut the aluminum in the shape you see in the video then I drilled two holes and bolted it on. I bought a flat piece of alumyat the hardware store
The tohatsu dealer in my area had it. It is clearly just a length of marine fuel line that he cut to length off a spool and and replaced. I'm guessing you could order some the same diameter from westmarine or amazon
