Hi ive just started this channel to help people that are new to SLA printing with the aim of showing the tips and tricks I use to print, repair, build and paint SLA models.
Good day, What are the mixing cups that you use called? I have been using basic sauce cups but they dont seal all that well and the ones that you use seem to do much better for this sort of work
@@DystopianForgeStudio They are similar if not the same as the source pots and I got them from Amazon, some are better made than others and these are listed for beds and stuff.. I have tried a few different brands but only two were really good and kept the paint for almost 6 months, here is a link to the ones I'm using! GSL 50 x Small Craft Storage Paint Beads - Plastic Container Pot with Hinged Lid - 30ml 1oz amzn.eu/d/0iDKPNe2
@@bennywhitebread I use Zero grey enamel filler primer and then I sprayed him matt black before I started drying brushing,. It's the dry brushing with white slowly turns the black to a sort of dark chalky grey!
Nice I’ve been trying to make some large flames in the shape of deer antlers and want them to light up but I have no idea how to start. I made the deer body out of clay.
@@thishandelisintavaliable You would need to mould the antlers out of millaput then make a mold and cast them using clear epoxy or use 3d software to design them and save as an STL so you can print them!
The sp-b is not a micron killer. It is very good and has a wide range for a .18 but there is no comparison with the mp-200 B micron or an iwata cmc. I have an Olympos mp200C .23 that is by far better than anything i've ever used. I bought it in 2016 from Toshiya in japan and this particular airbrush is a freak. Finest sharpest lines effortlessly . You have a nice collection there.
@@frankartale1026 That's YOUR personal opinion I have them all including multiple CMs multiple MP200s including 2 personal customised by Toshiya I talk to him regularly and it was Toshiya that told us about the SP-B Custom and that it's his favourite airbrush and in his own words the MP is expensive because of the more complicated nozzle assembly nothing more.. Also we have the original SP-B and MP200 catalogue and diagrams the SP-B has MUCH finer nozzle or atomisation, I'll quote the catalogue MP200 was advertised for line work the SP-B and SP-B Custom (there most expensive airbrush) was designed for photographic illustration ( editing photograph before Photoshop) We have tested all 37 of the best airbrushes from all the main manufacturers over 5 years and in my opinion is the SP-B Custom is a micron killer! My CM-SB, CM-B MP200a, MP200b, MP200a L1, L3 and S3 do not come close to the SP-B Custom (not to be confused with the SP-B) I have many emails over 5 years between me and Toshiya he clearly says on multiple occasions he prefers the SP-B over the MP ANYDAY and he should know he owns them all.. We are putting this all together for another video now along with an extra £300 in CM parts to convert and build some CM/MP hybrids because the MP alone is no use to me! Only with modern CM needles and nozzle tips are they any good and in that video I'll display emails and diagrams from Olympos themselves showing the MP spray pattern Vs the SP-B!! 😆 Olympos"s own paperwork says the SP-B is better and they knew more than you and me combined and even Toshiya has said I've completely drained him of knowledge he has nothing more he can tell me about Olympos! (I've corrected his mistakes in the past) Anyway in my OPINION the SP-B Custom kills them all I'd sell them all in a heartbeat but not the SP-B Customs again my opinion and that's all anyone can offer is their opinion because there is NO WRONG answers here only opinions! There will be a part 2 to that video unfortunately it not be for a few weeks or so because I'm busy working on private commissions and they pay for all this equipment I don't accept sponsors or freebies because they taint your opinions automatically.. Ps you're welcome to come to the studio and test them all yourself it's no problem and you wouldn't be the first, however we've never had anyone say we were wrong on this on well not after testing them themselves!
@@printitpaintit.2436 i was dealing with Toshiya in 2016. He sent me an Spb that he assembled for me. He told me the same thing that he likes the spb the best. Its very good but as far as ive found. The micron is finer by a decent amount.
Listen, you obviously know your stuff. I can see that. I'm not takin anything away from your opinion. Its just different than mine. btw, i am the person who came up with the concept for the Takumi back in 2016 and submitted it to iwata. It took 3 yrs to release it. But, i was not involved in anything past the initial design .
@@frankartale1026 I didn't mean to sound off with you I just have a lot going on and I spent a really long time doing my research into the different airbrushes and the tiny changes Olympos made over the years . Like you could buy an SP-B and it be TOTALLY different to the ones I have due to the manufacturing dates, they were permanently making changes I believe there are 3 different sets of needles and nozzles in circulation which makes buying replacement parts a pain in the backside! I have a takumi but it's not so good for painting models It turns a side feed into a gravity feed and strips away the side feed benefits like being able to quickly switch between cups without wasting paint or just quickly switching between colours. The first thing I did was ditch the big ugly heavy cup and replace it with a 7ml normal side feed cup, then I took away the heavy tail and replaced it with an Olympos 100 tail cap over 9g lighter! .. The SP-B cup is in the same position as the takumi it might actually be closer to the nozzle I'd need to double check and the same with the forward trigger position! 99.9% of all airbrushes today can trace their roots back to the original Olympos patents, since they closed there has been almost ZERO innervation.. Very sad the old guy retired and sold the company but that's life I guess everything comes to an end Unfortunately.. My friend uses the takumi for painting on canvas and he likes it but doesn't like the cup too heavy and the paint leaks out if you switch cups, like me he purchased a bunch of normal cups from Olympos as they do two sizes!
Thank you, I've got SOOOO much more cool stuff coming over the next few weeks about 1.5tb of footage to edit. I've also got some really really cool models lined up to paint + around £1400 in products paints and potions to try out and review!
I got a set of those abrasive wheels recently for the exact same purpose, and the finer grits work really well for resin... almost too well, I just wish they didn't instantly remove any water on the part. Even with a mask, I don't want to do a lot of machine sanding of dry resin in my workspace. I've got a big DIY spray booth too, but the setup is more for fume extraction than filtering out these kinds of particulates. Perhaps something like a booth used for media blasting would be a good option.
I'll make a video on how to make your own booth soon, the booth in the background is one I made and it's 3x more powerful than the 2k version! It has almost 2.5 inches of professional grade filter material that collects everything.. It sucks away the dust in seconds and then I have two large HEPA filters at the other end of the room that pickup anything that escapes the booth, rather than putting water on the part maybe try dipping the sanding bit in water first!?!?
Ho I have just spent all of none now existent savings on new paints, mediums, airbrush parts and more tools for cutting cleaning and sanding models.. One method is very similar but DEFINITELY create less dust and works better for wet sanding not to mention fits in tight spots so really great for finer details and getting in places the sanding wheels can't! Hopefully edit and upload that video later this week but I also have around 1.5tb of footage to edit that's built up over the months because I couldn't edit anything but it's only a short video so I'll try and squeeze it this week.. You will like the sanders! 😉
They are all printed from standard red transparent resin then I either use a gloss clear coat on them to make them look like glass or I use red glass paint like I did in this case!! So Just print them from stand off the self red SLA resin then paint them with Pebeo Vitral crimson glass paint,.. Also all light sabers will require an acrylic core to stop them warping overtime and to carry the light to the end of the blade.. Hope that helps 🙂
I printed them using transparent red then painted them inside and outside with Pebeo Vitral crimson glass paints.. I used a pepet to inject some inside filled them up and then let it all drip back out so it just coats the inside.. The crimson glass paint makes them look externally transparent but still keeping the really deep red colour!
Hi, I want to know how you prepare your 3D prints for airbrushing ?? So after the the print is complete you sand it using regular sanding paper ?? and afterwards do you wash the prints to remove all the sanding residues ?? and do you prime like use some Rust-Oleum primer before airbrushing ?? Thank you
Ufff big question! 😄 So there are a few different methods and I'm ALWAYS changing and adapting the different methods like sandpaper (old but reliable) Vs a dremmal with metal polish attachments that remove pit holes and defects like a hot knife through but to airbrushing printer resin on to the model like it's paint.. They all have their place no one method replaces another, I normally take the print through multiple stages before pre-priming and then priming!! I've not been uploading content because I ran into a software problem (Davinci Resolve free version started to develop an audio sync problem the more cuts I make, it also stopped asking if I would like to change the timeline to match my video). Basically I've been stuck in limbo for almost 8 weeks but I just purchased the full version and the speed editor so if all goes well I should be uploading regularly from next week and have started working on a video demonstrating the different methods I use to clean up prints and salvage failed prints using grafts or transplants.. If you need advice on a project and can't wait for the video you're welcome to message me on Instagram anytime and I can help you further, you can't send pictures or links to products on here so it's a little limited..
Hi, just a quick comment. I would have loved to hear more about why this brush feels better than an Micron to you. Also what Microns are you comparing to, only the older Olympos or also the latest Iwata Version? In what respect is this for you the best brush for minis and are there any short comings? LIke clogging, Tip dry? BUt other than that, I liked the Part about customization a lot :)
Hi I would love to have gone into more detail in the video because there is so much more to talk about and explain but I struggle with talking to the camera and this was my first video in 3 months.. I already feel more comfortable and I will definitely make a follow up video and answer all your questions and more! I'm comparing it to the Iwata CM-SB .18, CM-B .23 + the Olympos MP 200A .18 fitted with an L1 nozzle assembly and another custom 200A fitted with a 200C .23 L3 assembly!
Also I'm comparing it to all the other airbrushes I have like the Takumi Eclipse and the HP-SB plus and ones I have tried but returned or sold on, I've tried the best from Iwata, Creos, Paasche, RichPen, Badger and H&S, if they were good I kept them.. The SP-B Custom is capable of as fine or finer detail than an iwata CM .18 but feels much lighter and more nimble, it's just easier to use that's why I stopped using my CM's. It doesn't tip dry as much in my opinion but I also teflon coat my needles so that maybe helping the tip dry, but the control you get with the ultra low profile trigger is just astonishing to me! The only downside I've found is the needles are VERY soft (similar to h&S v1 needles) just catching it on a model will DEFINITELY damage one.. On the plus side it's only around £35 for a packet of 3 replacement needles Vs Iwata at £30 for 1 so as long as you pickup a 3 pack at checkout your set for MANY years!! Hope that helps until I record a second video where I can and bring in all the CMs and all the CM nozzle types.. I'm thinking of ordering the SP-C to replace my CM-B, thank you for watching and commenting all feedback is appreciated and if you want to see more customisation let me know!!
This is just my opinion and other may not feel the same way because everyone has different needs and preferences, some people prefer side feeds, some prefer larger cups and some prefer ultra lightweight airbrushes that feel like you are using a pen or sharpie. {SP-B} This was also my first video and the first time using an airbrush in around three months so I apologise if its a little rough, once I get back in the flow things should get better! 🙃
Thank you 😊.. I'm just about to start uploading Bolg P1 and Vecna from Stranger Things, Vecna is just a test run but not bad for a first attempt.. I might start Greta from gremlins 2 over Christmas, then an airbrush review to show everyone the SP-B Custom!! One airbrush to rule them all. 😆🥳 instagram.com/reel/CypY7nGoqhL/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
It has a slight red ish tent but I'd say more brown or red ish brown similar to dirty brass so maybe your saturation is slightly too high or the colour profile is slightly out.. I normally do my own calibration rather than using a profile like vivid or game, I use rgb mode and build a profile and if possible I use photo or Adobe mode for perfect colour accuracy!!
Hi had to come over and hit the sub really liking the prints you are doing if you print your own would definitely consider buying some from you to do some more bits for the channel as I like painting things like this speak soon rob
Wow thank you 👍. I'd love to print some bits for you and see what you can do with them, I've got lots of cool stuff on the way myself now that I've got my studio back up and running.. Feel contact me through RU-vid, email or Instagram and we can have a chat and get you some cool models to paint! I'm working on an airbrush review myself but it's very difficult to review 10+ airbrushes at once and pick the best one and keep it under 1hr with demonstrations.. 😀
Why would I care when I'm being paid £1000 to paint and make the model, at least I'm doing something with my time and trying to help others.. What you done apart from bitch and be a nob?
Sorry to be petty AF but it's pronounced "vall-ay-ho" NOT "vall-ag-eo"!!! I think the Green Stuff World chameleon colorshift metal range is better than the Vallejo ones, as you pointed out there's more variety in the colour mixes.
Is that the silhouette from the print? I've just ordered a resin 3d printer and this is something I wanted to experiment with down the line. I did read someone had done this and they said they burnt their screen due to the pigment sitting at the bottom? Your pump is obviously going to help stop it sitting at the bottom but I am very curious about that silhouette, I don't particularly want to bust my printer in a few weeks time lmao
The silhouette is where pigment had settled over a 9h print and it's as thin as a sheet of paper, I printed many cool things and the only problem I had was pigment settling too fast so I added the pump to keep it suspended for longer! I think maybe the person that burst the screen probably added so much pigment that it settled on the fep like sand dunes more human error! If you use lit glow powder or quality mica just don't add too much and you will be absolutely fine + it doesn't take very much pigment to do this and definitely not enough to damage the screen.. You can also use liquids like acrylic UV activie and glow in the inks they look fantastic under uv light! A good test is to mix your resin in a disposable pint glass then leave in a dark place for a few hours and see how much pigment has settled, if it looks like a beach you added to much.. 🥳
@@printitpaintit.2436 Yeah I've bought some liquid glow in the dark dye just off Amazon to see how they work, quite a few reviews saying the glow doesn't last very long and isn't very bright but we shall see😂 and cheers for the tips👍
Thank you 😊.. I'm just glad I got at least one 8k print off the saturn 2 before things went wrong, everything has cut lines running through them! Basically I can't use it at the moment and I literally just ordered 5 sheets feps and 3L of the new 8k resin, hopefully elegoo will sort things out soon.. 🙃
The arm and leg armor look amazing! Will have to look into that paint shaker, at the moment I just hose clamp a Vallejo bottle to a old blade then run it in the jigsaw.
The laser diode really does the job better. I had experimented with side glow fiber optic but this is the better and easier way to go. Thanks for sharing
Thank you and it's nice to know someone else might use this technique, I tried a few methods but I think this is definitely one of the better methods. I've been talking to a supplier in China that might be able to get me some green and purple diodes with just the PCB but they can require a heatsink making them bigger and more difficult to fit inside things like this! I'm thinking about trying fibre optics myself to split a red laser beam into 3 for a predator bust I've been looking at, I think it would be cool if you can see the laser beams!! You gave me an idea though maybe I could fit a purple or green laser inside the body or arm section, then use fiber optics to direct the laser beam to the saber blade.. 🤠
There are a few reasons but the main one is so that all the LEDs and the laser diode get the same amount of power.. If I ran them parallel some could look brighter than others and you can get fluctuations that could damage the diode.. Another reason is that this is cleaner and I don't have 12 sections of wire crammed in the bottom when I ship it to the client!.
It's called Pebeo Vitrail Crimson you can buy them as singles or in a starter pack and you get a whole bunch of colours, you will need a solvent to clean your brush so I recommend not using a nice brush!
I've been painting canvases since I was about 14 but since I brought my printers I haven't finished a canvas just having to much fun painting models! There's some really cool 80s cartoon characters on cgtrader, I purchased a He-Man/Cringer diorama and there a Skeletore in my basket..🙃
Thank you 😊 The Vallejo colour shifters were definitely a bit of a disappointment as there not cheap and they are really really similar! The GSW colour filter are good, they seem more useful and there colour shifting range look much more funky especially pack 3..
Thank you 😊! This model came in multiple files so I printed the chair in 2 sections and I printed lady maria in 3 sections and just glued her together after washing in IPA.. I can ask the client were they purchased the STL from if you want to print one yourself!.
@@SergeCruso Thanks again and here's a link to the file, if you run into any problems just give me a shout.. I had to cut up the sword in meshmixer and the handle or hilt needs to be scaled 5% higher than the rest of the sword! Ps I still have the sword pre sliced and could probably email or one drive you that peace and save you the messing around. 😊 www.artstation.com/marketplace/p/NP8k/lady-maria-2-0-bloodborne-stl-done-for-3d-printer
@@printitpaintit.2436 I am about to work on a large scale model next, but if you would be kind to share what extra labor you did to help a fellow resin junkie with this beautiful model I would add this to my top to do list for sure!
@@SergeCruso The first thing I'd recommend is a Dremel 3500 the one that comes with the whip attachment because you get soooo much more control when cutting hole's and adding details like the grove on the top of the table.. (I got mine from Amazon £41) When you print large models that need to be joined together don't cure them until you have glued them together, print off each peace wash in alcohol then put them in a box away from the light. Once you have all the peace's glue them together then cure them, this way you don't have any nasty gap's from shrinkage!! If they don't fit in the cure station buy a curing lamp from Amazon £15, they come with a little turntable I use mine more than cure station..
I would recommend you wear niltrile gloves when working with resin, resin is pretty toxic in both fumes and upon skin contact, you also should let the resin cure properly either with sunlight or getting UV lights that output at 405nm, don't trust your uv pen to make it safe to handle.
Thanks normally I wear gloves but when using a small amount form the cap it's not going anywhere and the laser pen is a UV laser 405nm same as the curing lights just way more powerful so the resin is cured 100% after a few seconds! It's the same UV laser diode used by millions of dentists to cure resin fillings so good enough for me and more powerful than my wash cure station LEDs.. This is elegoo standard resin and I have got documents from elegoo that clearly states no voc in this particular resin it just smells bad, I contacted them again about this and they gave more than enough evidence so if there are VOCs I'd be surprised.. There are resins available and on the bottle it clearly say VOC we're a respirator but not this one according to EU and UK safety standard's, it's just an irritant and dangerous to aquatic life!
Wahh I'm looking for video like this.. Just 1 klik away for buy this paint.. Can't wait for your video for metal Interference for base with different colors, my plan is paint my new ork with this Interference Colours..
Hi yes I have tried them over other colours, they work best on a matt surface and you get some really cool effects over different colours! Now I've had a chance to play around with them I'd say they are very versatile and definitely more use than the colour shifters. You can mix and match them over a coloured surface to create interesting colours and effects that really pop! There like a transparent ink similar to anodised metal with very fine glitter mixed in, I might use them in another metallics video later this week so you can see how they look on top of other colour's..
I've not tried on nylon but resin stick's to most surfaces so I'd just try it on a small area first, nylon is a slippery material but when 3d printing it's got lot's rough edges to cling to!
Thank you for watching, If you plan to scale this method down its quite easy with smaller peace's of sponge. I have been working on another method for leather that includes scratches and stains for a more weathered look, I will be making a video on that method and combining them in the next week or so when I start painting Lady Maria from bloodborne! I will also be making a video on the two new effects mediums from Dirty Down featured at the end of this video and another video on how to create both the armour effects over the next few weeks as part of my armour series. :-)
