Welcome to Simon's Shed! Subscribe for updates as I explore the fascinating world of model trains, and work on my model railway layouts. I'll also do loco reviews, layout updates, 3d printing videos, how-to guides and more! If you would like to support the channel by buying some merchandise please visit teespring.com/simons-shed
Hi Simon. Just a random question. Do you know if anyone is making any British Rail DEMU’s like Class 201’s or if there’s any in development . Especially in tt120..
Hi, Thinking of making a start in railway modelling and looking at the TT scale. Getting my head around the DC v DCC layouts and locomotives. This is a DC layout? When choosing the engine does it have to be the one without the decoder chip or can you run it on it? Can you upgrade later? Cheers.
I would use any points EXCEPT Peco. The blades of Peco points work harden at the toe over time and you end up with useless flapping point ends. They are not pivoted, they are moulded into the tie bar. The number of Peco points I've had to replace on friends layouts over the years is in the hundreds.
One thing I'd like to ask is this... so all track has been laid and trains are running fine and now it's time to add some point motors. How do you drill the hole beneath the point when the point has already been laid. I guess a tiny 2mm hole could be drilled from above through the hole in the point where the point motor wire goes through and then from beneath the baseboard widen that hole without going too far and damaging the point? Is this the best option?? Most point motor installation videos show installation with points not already fixed to baseboard.
Im sorry I dont find this a game changer. Yes it comes across as good however with blue tooth you can only connect to one item at a time, Therefore if you have many locos you cant connect to them all at the same, plus you still need main controller to operate points and signal. Typical Hornby they came out with Railmaster which showed block control but never made the unit itself . So I would not buy this. It may work well for others.
Can you use a Lenz Ls 150 Decoder on seeps, as I have linked the Ls 150 to my operating system and blinls as it should however the motor does not throw more than a mm in each direction
Admiring your absorbent and detailed video, Simon! The whole process seems to me more straight forward after my watching it. I am using the z21 Start. However I am experiencing an absolute disaster while trying to add locos with decoders installed (actually, nowadays, I am just using the test board for the purpose). I cannot see, after some endless hours of experimenting, as how to make a loco run, i.e. to be controlled by the z21. z21 reads the decoder all right, all its parameters. Then I assign a new address to the decoder and the same to the loco. But when I go to the Steering (the throttle) - nothing happens: the loco's speed control is inactive at all! It's funny though, that after I deactivate the z21 and just open the app along, the Speed control becomes adjustable (i.e. I can "play with it", toggle it)!... Even if I don't assign the new address, but leave it as 3, it still doesn't influence the throttle control... What am I doing so terribly wrong?! I have a gut feeling it is something very small and obvious, but I cannot crack the problem! Cold you please, give me your educated suggestion? Many thanks!
Hello from the states! I'm loving this TT scale. I have bumble fingers thanks to arthritis, love my old fashioned O gauge but it takes up so much room! I have one US N gauge set by Bachmann, I'm wondering if you can do a side by side comparison video of the 2 gauges/scales? My great great grandfather was from Scotland, and want to get the Flying Scot in his memory. In your opinion what scale is the best? Thank you!
Edit..Great stuff..Just started a TT 120 for my dad, hes 90. I found 50 mm thick XPS blueboard is the perfect base for myTT120. It wont warp at 50 and you can dig lakes in it and throw resin straight on it (paint first lol), another 50 mm piece on top is ample for tunnels. You can stick track down with dress pins dipped in glue and it aint goin anywhere. If your sus about it warping you can push a steel curtain rod through it. Bobs your uncle (or aunty these days lol).
As others have mentioned here INOX is the best choice. Forget your isopropyl, forget your methylated spirits, definitely forget your track rubbers, and NEVER EVER use WD40 - all the wrong chemicals in that stuff. INOX = number 1. It's all about electrical conductivity.
From OO experience Peco points throw better and run smoother. Hornby is trainset material, Peco is Model railway material. Peco all the way, and they are based in Beer!
I purchased a new Lenovo TAB M11 so that I could go with HM7000. Unfortunately I could not get things to work properly. After several days of backwards and forwards with Hornby, I received this message from Hornby today (20th March 2024): It’s also worth noting if you are an Android user, we are aware of a bug whereby HM7000 decoders are appearing fresh out the box as ‘Resettable’ and no appearing under the Ready to Link section. This can be fixed by using the Force Quit function within Android settings to close the HM | DCC app, then re-open the HM | DCC app and then Restart Scan. This will then find the HM7000 decoder without the need for a Reset Code.
I've just finished watching your TT:120 layout videos and was sad to see it's been a while since this last video. Hope all is well and that we get to see you finish it in the near future, it's looking great!
I've had mine mars3 for a while and I still am not sure which it is.. registers as a pro looks like a pro LCD .. 4k same screen .. just doesn't state it's a pro and im fairly sure the box said it's a pro aswell.... If I had it I'd check haha .. either way love my printer just very very confused lol
I’m slowly replacing my 00 gauge fleet with these and also adding smoke units to them which needs a small relay to work as the decoder function output current is low the first I fitted went into my flying Scotsman that sound profile also plays Scotland the brave lol
I did Not believe Inox would work but it certainly does :O I use IPA 100% to clean a very light smear of inox wiped dry with a clean cloth and hyper slow non stuutery N scale locos diesel and steam
Electrical contact cleaners do not work especially on Steam type locos their wheels just spin with poor headway 100% IPA is the ONLY cleaner that actuially works
