hello thank you very much for sharing your advice, I tried a few transplants in the spring but I must say that it was not a great success because there were certain things that I did not know. what temperature do you recommend in the greenhouse? I am a young conifer collector in France. Thank you so much
I grow white oaks here in Maine. Some by planting acorns some by transplanting white oaks from other states. I want to graft white oak scions to red oak root stock. Can this be done?
do you know what understock is used to graft the Picea glauca pendula (weeping white spruce) that would grow to 6 to 8 feet wide and 15 plus feet tall? I have been asking about what rootstock to use, but I get no answers. I was told not to propagate it through cuttings. I bought a 4-year-old one this year but I need to make more.
peace, i'm from Algeria, very informative video and interesting technique ""green grafting" for pecan, i've tried grafting pecan for the last three years bark and four flap... unfortunatly without success due to poor scion quality, wrong time, etc... the cons with these techniques are if the graft fail i have to wait for next year to try again... with your success experience on this approach and having a larger time window for grafting, i'm eager to try this green technique. should i wait, until summer June July August or grafting in spring will be ok? the weather in Algeria is similar to Houston in terms of seasons and temperature with mediteraneen climate of course. Any extra tips will be greatly appreciated... thanks a lot and god bless you
each climate(s) new & green growth will be at differing times but once the bud is formed and is mature is when that wood is mature to graft. best-regards watering trees will slip/loosen the bark so/if necessary. collect the greenwood fresh to graft fresh. first make sure tree bark slips
Now available for purchase at Grimo Nut Nursery, Canada: Grimo Grafting Machine: www.grimonut.com/index.php?p=Products&category=grafting-supplies-parent RU-vid demonstration: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fs8jt23RyQc.html&ab_channel=TheOhioCountryboy
Check with Grimo Nut Nursery in Canada. He has built it for sale: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fs8jt23RyQc.html&ab_channel=TheOhioCountryboy This video shows one made by a tool and die maker. This video shows one made: one of a kind. best-regards. this is all the information I have.
Hi what a coincidence, I am harvesting my pecan today. I have 3 pecan trees in my garden . 2 are 8 years old and have started good nuts and 3rd one is 3 years old. 😊😊
You should be at 34 F and not any lower. It's the same stratifying seeds or storing plants in containers above ground. 27 F is when pretty decent damage to plants in containers happens to their roots.
Hi, I spoke to Cliff England at England's Orchard and Nursery and Cliff said grafting walnuts on a callusing pipe didn't work until he began using becoming dry compost to set the roots in as trees callused. Furthermore he said dormant walnuts bleed so that was my problem. Had I used a dry substrate (being compost) I would've had takes. That's one part of my answer. A friend in Europe took this build like mine and had excellent results grafting walnuts... he said the problem I was having was that I shouldn't be using Juglans nigra as a rootstock, but that I should be grafting on Juglans regia. He, however, is grafting J. regia to J. regia (Persian walnut to Persian walnut) and not grafting any black walnut either as scion or as rootstock... Take it as it is... I would 'suspect' had I potted the black walnut trees (Juglans nigra) a year prior to grafting and allowed them to root in pretty well for one-year of growing and then brought them in to the callusing tubes... that may change everything, but, I haven't done that and I won't for a while; that's for sure. You cannot ship walnuts anywhere west of the Rocky Mountains and there are all kinds of states you may not ship to in the USA. So, grafting walnuts to sell is pointless right now. There's been discussions recently that there isn't anybody selling black walnut cultivars anymore (2022 currently) and everybody & including me is telling others that if they want grafted walnuts in their gardens, yards, or orchards, that, they're going to have to learn to graft. Honestly, I don't know anything at all... about walnuts & grafting. I was shocked to have (2) takes in something like 80 trees that I grafted. I've grafted 20,000 trees easily, so, that was what is known as a "serious learning situation." I can't point you towards any other help. This is as far as I've gotten into walnut as bench grafts. I bark graft and flap graft them outside. If I was going to graft walnuts that will live in containers for a year or more, I'd pot them a year in advance, then graft them the next year outside in the hot of the sun when temps are midst 75 F. Once 75F comes along and nighttime temps are above 55 F, that entire window of time afterwards in the time to do all your outside grafting for optimum results; budding & grafting.
No, same Family Juglandaecae but different Genus of Each respectively: Pecan (Carya) & Walnut (Juglans). Generally speaking near 99.9% of the time two differing Genus will never graft. There are exceptions such as Pears (Pyrus) grafted on mountain ash (Sorbus) and/or hawthorn (Craetagus) and/or Serviceberry (Amalanchier). Or even conifers such as firs (Abies) grafted on larches (Larix), but no, these are very rare exceptions to the world of grafting.
@@fazlikrasniqi6658 No, again. It's the same answer without an explanation this time. You can do anything you want, but you aren't gonna successfully graft pecans to walnuts.
Great set of videos. Thank you for making them. I’m new to growing conifers. I feel like I’ve gotten pretty good at most things with these trees including growing from seed but my grafting results still stink. I live in San Francisco so we have no frost and cold wet summers and warm sunny falls. What the best month to do this? Should the scion be further into the season than the root stock or the other way around? It seems like grafting should be done just before bud break early spring? Does timing make a big difference? Sorry for all the questions. I’m also curious about grafting redwood trees. I’m guessing the same principles would apply. Thank you again, MH
Glad they help. The rootstock is advanced and never should the scion be. The scion is always dormant when winter, summer, or fall grafting. I don't Fall graft. I stop grafting deciduous trees during July. That's when I'm chip budding fruit trees (or deciduous ornamentals). You will do your conifer grafting with humidity (humidity chamber) and when the buds on the conifer rootstock(s) have 1/3 swollen up large and/or are beginning to unfurl foliage, that's when you begin grafting. Your scions should be collected above 55 F for at least a week. Place your scions in a ziplock with a small amount of paper towel that you squeezed every last bit of water from humanely possible. That paper towel should be the size of a small marble for sandwich bag or quart ziplocks and then for gallon ziplocks, its size should be for a large marble. You run the water over the towel, squeeze it all out, and make the appropriate size marble size ball. Collect your scions while carrying a cooler with ice on an overcast day and early in the morning if you can. If just collecting a few scions, do it anytime but have that cooler with ice if you're on the road or it's not a short walk to return right back into your house.
White oaks: use Quercus bicolor if can always when not matching species to species; Red oaks I use Quercus rubra mostly. Quercus libani to accutissima since libani is a favorite tree of mine.
right now it's 68% on a sunny morning with the door open relative humidity. The bags increase the humidity and bagging is what allows for the conifer grafts to not dry up and lose their needles as well as to create callus at the union where scion is grafted to rootstock. The bag is needed to cover the union and scion to increase the humidity around the graft. The relative humidity of my greenhouse has nothing to do with the conifer grafting, fyi. best regards.
You leave it on the trunk. You cut the tree off above it. The inserted bud grows and becomes the new tree. It grows rapidly!!!!!!!! Have a stake electrical taped to the tree to tie its growth to and to keep birds/wind from snapping your grafts off. Always have a stake taller than the tree for the birds to land onto.
@@therespectedlex9794 Always under where you do your grafting work/carpentry if you're grafting on an older seedling such as this one or up to 4" in diameter then be sure to leave a couple nurse branches or one big one or however you see fit. The nurse branches are eventually removed but they are needed to keep the tree and grafts alive while the change to a variety is occurring. And don't graft (typically speaking and it's solid advice) a branch or trunk diameter more than 4". There are techniques available such as this one for experienced grafters for larger than 4" calipers: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f4ReeuSPGh4.html you'll see that nurse branch on his trees he's converting cherry cultivars in a high density planting orchard. Best of luck to you!!
@@coniferblacklab That will increase the pecan harvest I guess. Thanks for the encouragement. All I need is a patch of land and some pecan trees. That'll be the day. Guess this loner might have to join an off grid commune.
I am very curious about this new way of grafting. Can you demonstrate that, because I do not fully understand your explanation. Is this new way also important for non-coniferous grafts? Thanks!
I have a much smaller collection of grafted tree conifers between 2 meters and I suppose 4-meters now. I donated a major part of my conifers that were planted as a garden to Columbia Missouri's USA city park arboretum where they have been very well cared for by a close, personal friend. I graft nut trees and persimmons & pawpaws these days.... pear & apple. Greetings.
Those are huge scions by our standards doing fruit. We constantly discuss if one bud is enough or are two needed. His method has 10--20 buds! It would be great to successfully graft huge scions like that. Yes a great grafting machine but it needs a lot of adjusting when new for best alignment. Be sure to rest the wood to be cut against the cutters, in the V they form like he says or your cut will be lopsided. There are cheap copies of the grafter made in China and they can be useful but are poorly made and very sloppy in the fitting of pieces. The orange one like he has is much better. Keep the blades oiled when not in use and clean and disinfect as needed. Excellent grafting demonstration.
Very nice compliment. Since those were witches brooms, it's pretty typical to graft clustering's of buds. I graft (1) bud for trees whether any nut tree, any fruit tree, or ornamental. I grow whips grafts (non-branching) of nut-trees/persimmon/pawpaw/fruits, or, ornamentals. One bud only and I cannot stress the importance of using a single bud to tie its' new growth to a stake to make a salable tree in practically no time.
tnx tht video.im from Turkey .i wanna to buy pecans sapling..cold-resistant species....heres altitude is abuout 1400-1500 metress.Are there any suitable species here? can u helpm e plase.
Thank you so much for the procedure for grafting pines. I'm interested in the timing of the grafts? Is this best done before the spring flush of candles or some other time?
Hey guy, fellow pawpaw grower here. I have about 100 trees I guess, (at that point some are sprouting and some are dying, and a person can't really count them, if you know what I mean). A good friend of mine was asking about the Regulus pawpaw, so I did a search and found you discussing it on a forum. I have a few pawpaws that I have selected from my seed plantings of some 20 years ago and was wondering if you would have any interest in a swap. If not, perhaps you would consent to just sell me a scion stick of Regulus? If you wanted to see a part my orchard, I have a video up in them under this name. Thanks.
So-so sorry, accept my apologies for missing your post! I have one Regulus tree remaining with 6 or 8" of growth. I'll graft you one this summer with June budwood, however, remind me and I'll do it mid-August. Go ahead and put it on your calendar and write again, here. Thanks... and I'm not interested in any more pawpaws, but sincerely, thank-you.
I bought one of these at a rummage sale. It did not include the sizing wedge. Your video showed me what I was missing. I'll cut one out. What is the widest part (end) of the wedge. Looks like 3". Thanks!
John, I have my whole life set-up just the way I like it. I don't need anything; and I'm a hermit. I'm conifers825 on eBay should you like to see what I'm growing. Thanks, John.
Hey Daxman, this reminds me a little of the "air layering" I've seen on RU-vid videos of how to "clone" a Rhododendron, BUT, in the "air layering" process you do NOT cover up the foliage of the Rhody, and you make a pocket of soil in the baggy for roots (eventually) to grow into. With your voice, if you wanted to, you could be selling millions of CD's singing the blues or country music, yes, you sound like Johnny Cash. :)
Nice video Daxman, so you started all of the seedling Pecans from seed? Do you ever trim down the rootball of them? I'm guessing when you take them out to graft them you DO trim the roots a bit. Later.
Anytime I up-pot I go thru the roots with a fine brush comb untangelling and clipping. Like a fresh haircut girl! ha ha Grafts stay in containers if already rooted well in them. Bareroot grafts get bagged in wet paper towels and bagged, grafted, and set on the callusing pipe. See the links above (anyone) for information such as this, thank you.
Hi, two things I guess. I don't know where you live but my friend in Texas had her in-ground plants wake up the same time I did within my greenhouse which was about the 2nd week of January. She basically said it broke dormancy waking up a month earlier than any other hardwoods in her Area. Of course she lost the blossoms. She dug it up and tossed it. I also tossed mine. Had my container plant been in my basement in the dark it would've woken up and same result. You need to be in California or Florida or ? to grow this successfully. It's origin is somewhere like Malaysia or Vietnam. It's tropical man.
