on the bow light or nav light how do you tell which wire is neg and which is positive? I have that same light that you re-soldered and added the led bulb to.
the 5th gear on my 99 crv pops out after running it on that gear for a little bit and it grinds when putting it in gear.. so would this help with my problem?? thanks
I have been looking to rig a F90 Yamaha and your video was the most accurate that I have seen on RU-vid. I was so confuse with some of the video on RU-vid not explaining of where to connect the battery cable but you did! Where did you get the manual how to rig a F90 Yamaha outboard motor or the shop manual? Mahalo
So glad i found this. Ive been sitting on the 3 quarts of synchromesh looking for the best route to do this. Definitely alot easier than i thought. Gonna tackle this along with my next oil change. Thank you for posting this. Long live the 6-6 sedans!
Ohhh no not db electrical there’s are terrible parts . Also, only reason why the old O-ring is thicker is because it has swelled in hydraulic fluid. I would also recommend extracting all the fluid and putting all new fluid in while you have the chance.
Looks like you came in from another entrance than what I used. I came in one level up and had a very difficult time of finding my way down to the lower level. I came in off Alabama and once you are in the garage, there is no clear indication of how to get down to the lower level. Lucky you found a Tesla on its way down 🙂 Once you get down there, the chargers are toward the back. They work great and had no problem charging up to 90% from 25% in about 25 minutes for a MYP. Very low traffic on the weekend both Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Not much to do there, as you are really down in the garage with no quick access to the mall. Not sure if there is an idle charge on these
do you still have the red ritchie explorer. it would perfectly fit to my boston whaler montauk 17 from 1983. please give me a short answer. best philippe
Is the piece behind the cartridge removable? My problem is the piece behind the cartridge keeps getting clogged with sediment every so often. I tried to pry that piece out, but I didn't want to pry to hard and accidentally break it in case it's not supposed to come out. I used my air compressor to blow it out so that it works good enough for a while, but I don't want to keep doing this every few months. I suspect if all you do is replace the cartridge or clean it, you're just wasting your time and the problem will come back if you don't address the root cause, which is the rust particles coming through the pipes themselves.
Dont use screws. You'll be sorry. And don't pull out rivets. Cut them with end cutting pliers. Fill all old holes with 5200 or you'll really be sorry down the road.
If your problem is severe enough, no gear oil/MTF is going to fix your issue. This will more or less fix mostly minor grinding, and at warm gear oil temperatures. If you have cold start grinds that stop once your gear oil warms up, then that’s also a different situation.
@@looneyyang1326 I stopped using the friction modified stuff, and just stuck to GM Synchromesh or Amsoil Synchromesh. Anything good in the GL-4, 75w-80 rating is decent. I started using Motul Motyl Gear GL-4+ (GL-4/GL-5 compatible), but was afraid of the GL-4+ oil specs. I ended up running a newer formula of the Motul, which was GL-4 rated. I even tried some 75w-85, which took longer to warm up (during warmup).
If your problem is severe enough, no gear oil/MTF is going to fix your issue. This will more or less fix mostly minor grinding, and at warm gear oil temperatures. If you have cold start grinds that stop once your gear oil warms up, then that’s also a different situation.
