Nice build. I’m early on in the process with mine. Chassis is reinforced, 8 point cage, on an apex track attack suspension kit. Finally a roller. Ls3 with a tr6060 is what’s going in. If you’re still struggling with seat height, look into a tillett seat. I put in a tillett b6 and have plenty of helmet room even with the cage. I’m 6’2”.
Hello, I used the LS Swap headers from CX racing for a Datsun 280Z: www.cxracing.com/engine-swap-kit/engine-swap-kit-nissan-datsun/engine-swap-kit-nissan-datsun-240z-260z-280z-s30/HD-LS-240Z
This may or may not help anyone but I'll put it here anyway. If youre having a hard time getting to the center top bolt on your bellhousing, you should pull your transmission crossmember first. This will allow you to be able to get an extension on a ratchet and get to the bolt from the back. Don't be afraid to get the transmission and engine lean back, just watch for clearances between the engine and firewall. Work smarter not harder
thanks for sharing... nice setup! i plan to run the same twin stick setup in my 70 Suburban but i really like that Sidewinder setup you have there... what model is that, and how did you route it? ill be running a 4L80, but it probably uses the same shifter...
Hello, I don't remember the model exactly. I will see if I can dig it up. But I had stockpiled a lot of the parts around that time, so I'll have to see where I ordered it from.
I did the same swap on my truck and trans shifts a bit hard and the clutch is really soft....how does yours work? ive seen other vids of people that shim the slave cylinder but they use a different type of slave cylinder.
Before I installed this new slave cylinder you see in the video I was having the same issues. Now the clutch is perfect and the shifts are much smoother. The NV3500 is not the smoothest shifting trans in the world, but there is no longer resistance from the clutch not fully disengaging. Here is the new slave cylinder I put in: www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-slave-cylinder/p/duralast-clutch-slave-cylinder-pfsc011/811449_0_0?searchText=pfsc011&redirectUrl=true
@@gearheadgrind Today i went for another test drive and the gears will go in better if i mash the clutch all the way to the floor, maybe i need to bleed the clutch some more??..... i had put a brand new LuK LSC326 slave in there with a 4.8 flywheel and centerforce clutch
Just about to do the switch delete on my DRZ and found this video, thanks now I don't have to cut the wires, I plan to completely remove the switch though and throw it in the box with other DRZ bits so it can be re-installed at another time if I need to.
@@gearheadgrind Thanks for the reply, I knpw the clearance is a big issue in these cars when finding a replacement seat. How close are your seats to the window at the shoulder area where it gets wider for the harness pass throughs? I am going to try the RRX's and i think they are around the same measurements for the basic dimensions, so this helped me feel a bit more anxious about the fit up
Excellent video. Good camera angles, nice and clear, well explained, no wife in the background yelling its dinner time, or kids fighting while making your video or dogs barking, You'd be surprised at some of the videos ive seen. LOL.this was far the best tutorial of all of them. Thank you so much. God Bless.
Thanks for the great feedback! I always feel like I'm not doing anything special, but I am glad it helped! Funny fact: this was my wifes car at the time and I had her edit the video in exchange for me doing the motor mounts.
I do not believe there was stock tint on the 280. Id fiberglass over that sunroof hole personally, glad I got a slick top, I think it looks better in profle. I did a half cage that ties in the foot well to the original seatbelt box to the center of the trans tunnel behind the seats, to the rear shock towers. The bars from the floor to the hoop do make it trickier to get in and out but you get used to it. Im 6'0" and its ok. My 6'2" friend had no trouble but hes very lanky and flexable. I had to move the seats in about 2 inches to accommodate the bars. In the future I think Ill install door bars with a bend in them to make the middle lower and make them protrude into the door card. A few inches would solve all the ingress/egress issues. Being off center from the wheel is a little weird if you think about it too hard but I dont notice the second Im moving. I also lowered the seating position about an inch and a half which I think is more comfortable and something you should consider being so tall. I didnt link my rear towers to maintain maximum storage space back there. I feel like the stiffness of the hoop will increase the tower's stiffness a fair amount without it and I can always go to a bolt in later. Its so cool you got a seam welded car. I started on that process during my restoration but the existing old seam sealer was too hard to remove and working around it was just causing a lot of black greasy smoke to be produced. I feel like if you have bars in the car you should scrap the rear seats to save weight.
Thanks! How did you try removing the seam sealer? An impact hammer with a chisel worked for me for the insulation and then it was a wire wheel on a grinder for the rest. Definitely a time consuming process for sure. As for the rear seats, there is not much weight there as I'm not going to be using the stock mounting method and the seat itself isn't very heavy. I prefer the aesthetic on the 2+2 with the seat in over an empty space.
@@gearheadgrind My issue was that it was in the seams in many cases, like Id have to pop the spot welds to get all the way in there and clean it out. Id get it as clean as I could on the surface but once I started welding up came the smoke so I gave up on that idea. I was worried the gas and smoke would get into the welding puddle, and it was just awful smoke. I removed a fair deal of the insulation by freezing it with dry ice and tapping it with a hammer. then used a paint scraper to pop it up once I could get under it.
I love to see them get built and the fabrication process My 2 cents Keep it short. ( move rear fenders forward ) 2 wheel drive Custom long travel budget suspension Chevy 400 the. LS are a pain on the trails Because it’s 2 wheel double. Winch it How much u pay for it ?
Wow very nice and unique project FYI blazer k5 to short bed truck are very different The wheel base is a huge factor The blazer is SHORTER I see that the rear step side fender is not centered to the center of the rear axel Do you want a shorty truck ? For 4x4 and soft rock crawling Is short or long wheel base preferred ?
We are using a lot of the same stuff you are, we are using an F Body oil pan, same brakes as you and such, going to use 19" wheels to help with ground clearance for exhaust
Currently have the 4 inch rough country and just ordered my new 4 inch bds coilover adjuatable with rear bds leafsprings. Cant wait to get it installed in my 15 silverado... great video.. hard to find reviews for this lifts
Thanks! I didn't get enough footage of the truck actually doing some proper offroading with that suspension as I just didn't take the time to film it. But there is a little footage in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1qBSIamNZdg.html
@@gearheadgrind I was going to order the kit today I’m trying to make a lil overlander and was going to order this kit today with my 2012 silverado 1500 extended cab
@@robertespinoza2740 Stock lowers for sure and I think you can do stock uppers too. All that information is on their site as well. I used aftermarket uppers personally.
Hi I see there was alot of oil on and around the AOS. Where was that leaking from as I have similar but cannot seem to find where its coming from. Cheers
