Dispatching with two V15 (8c) projects in the same day is pretty wild. And the density of hard climbs in that area? It almost sounds like this place in Idaho could be the Hanshelleren Cave of bouldering.😀
Speaking of different grades for different heights: In the original Rocklands guidebook by Scotty Noy there is a boulder called "Hole in One" which is graded 7A/8A (V7/V11) depending on how tall you are. The general consensus these days seems to be that it is 7C/+ (V9/10). Also RIP to Hatchling, it was one of the most aesthetic boulders in the world :(
I am so incredibly excited to see Flatanger get the attention it deserves. Next we need more visitors to Czechia and to Seb Bouins projects in France (DNA!)
So i touched my (ok, tried it once before, but thought clould be a small) ca. V8 proj two days in the past after my finger injury was decently fine. Then randomly ca. 8 min after a good go my other finger started hurting and now i have two slowly healing finger injuries. And my full time v11 boulder and climbing projects are both on hold for 1 month+ already though i at least top roped my climb before the injury... So anyways, don't think I'll send my project so fast🙃 but my goal was v11 at the end of the year and that's still quite possible and I'll push through. Maybe then I'll comment here again. Sry, just needed to write out my tilt.
Megos got some explaining to do for dating a young adult who he took in as Ukrainian refugees while underage and claimed himself to see as younger siblings 😅 cause that’s some serious creep shit.
awesome recap, as usual :D super excited for the lead world cup, and soon the boulder world cups also! finally some less stakes comps! there was also the european championship, which was a blast!
I had a project that I was thinking about all day, every time I would go back I would get a new move that felt impossible, it was also the highest grade I’ve ever done so I was so excited. Then right before i tried it on the third or 4th session I feel I pop on my finger… very sad
Yesterday I sent my three session V6 project! Crimpy holds on fairly steep wall. One pretty long move in the middle combined with bad footholds. I could do the crux move isolated with maybe 1/3 probability but after climbing the start of the route it was harder, of course. But then it just clicked, I could get past the crux and the end was fine! It was sent, now I have even harder V7 project which I believe I can send after a few sessions.
That's so great to hear 🎉 Congrats on sending your V6 project! That feeling when it just clicks is so good! And all the best on the V7 project... you can totally do it 👍🏻👍🏻
I never heard Megos say he was against knee pads as a whole. What he said was that if the route was done without knee pads, he was against the use of them. He never said he was against knee pads if the first ascend was done with knee pads.
That's a good distinction to point out. You're right, he specifically talked about how if the first ascent had been done without kneepads, that's the style a climber should try to repeat it in. He seems to have changed his opinion or become more comfortable with the use of kneepads though. He recently sent Move (I'll cover it more in the next episode) and used two kneepads but gave props to Adam Ondra for making the FA without kneepads. And of course, that's totally fine for him to change his opinion or approach. I think it's cool that he gives credit to Ondra for doing it 10 years ago AND without kneepads! Thanks so much for taking the time to comment 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey, Alex! Thanks for the feedback. I do tend to use a lot of hand movements when I talk... and maybe I got a little carried away this time 😄 Glad you enjoyed it otherwise. Also, nice profile picture! Petra is quite an amazing place to visit 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey man, great video! I hope this isn’t too rude, seeing as I am just discovering this channel, but I just want to say the constant hand movements towards the camera is very distracting. Keep up the good work!
Hey, Tanner! Thanks for your feedback and for delivering it in a kind way 😊 I generally use a lot of hand movement when I talk... but perhaps I went overboard on this video. Megos is still crushing it in Flatanger, so more videos to come 👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome breakdown! One question: why does the audio cut off sometimes with words ending in -er? 1:45, 2:27 are some examples. Might be just me though ;)
Hey, Joren! Good question… I was noticing that during my editing process this time. I think something was up with my wireless microphone during the recording. The signal from the mic to the receiver was briefly cutting out now and then. Hopefully it wasn’t too disruptive. And I hope to have it resolved for next time. Thanks for commenting 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey, Ozijak! Yeah it’s pretty cool all the sends that are happening around the world post-Olympics! I’m so glad you are enjoying these breakdowns… I’m happy to help connect people to the global climbing community! Thanks so much for watching 👍🏻👍🏻
Im glad to hear that your enjoying my videos in spite of that 🙈 My goal is to pronounce names correctly, though it can be challenging especially in an episode about so many climbers. Let me know if there are specific names that you have pronunciation tips for… I’m always looking to improve 😊 Thanks for commenting 👍🏻👍🏻
@@augustclimbing Yeah I like technical movement a lot more than pure strength stuff, but there's also just something so awesome about climbing upside-down!
@@austin4768 So true! Climbing upside down also makes for impressive photos and videos 😄 I tend toward liking the more technical stuff too, but I'm also working on increasing my strength.
There is no inconsistency in that Megos acknowledged using kneepads as cheating both last year and now in his post. In the post he frankly points out the part that makes his ascent slightly easier than Adam’s. That Alex is willing to improve his kneebar skill is a different conversation and I doubt any climbers would not want to become better with their techniques.
Yes, I appreciate that Megos is straightforward about it in his post! And that's a good point... improving kneebar skills may or may not include the use of kneepads. Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
It sure is! FA by Jakob Schubert late last year. Good call on mentioning that route too. Hopefully we'll see someone projecting it soon and going for that second ascent. Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
I just sent mine today. I was so happy cuz it was just one move i couldn't do. I had done the crux move before but fell at the last move. Also great send!
I have no issue with knee pads but I agree the best way to handle the issue is to be honest like Alex. That being said my unachievable goal is 5.11 not 5.15 lol.
Hey, Patrick! For sure... there are a lot of different ways to climb something, and just being honest about how you climbed something is the best approach! Now the question is... will you use kneepads on that 5.11 route? Thanks for commenting 👍🏻👍🏻
Shows and proves, Alex and Adam are the tops of the pops.Proof they are the best real world climbers, twelfth from most anorexic gym groms that've rarely seen the light of day , isn't anything to be ashamed of, the olympics are oldest form of fake war.Adam snd Alex, bring peace to the world , and its over competitive turmoil. True modern day karma-boddahvista gurus, sport climbing has become the emaciated- models on the catwalk of the 1990s. Way to be warriors, not worriers, they are self-established, in a wsy no countries "establishment" can better. Before the olympic symbol was "invented" in the mid 20th century, Michelangelo signed his sculptures with three interlocking rings. Megosangelo & Ondravincis' accomplishments will way outlast any of their contemporaries, the only history the future will notice, will be shared by them, but nice they pay homage to their influences.True masters, thanks for the meaning of showing here and now, future human potential, Peace on earth!
Hey, Matthew! Your comment has left me speechless 😊 I think Megos and Ondra would be flattered by the Renaissance comparisons. Though I have to say I enjoy outdoor climbing AND comp climbing... but not everyone does and that's ok. Thanks for taking the time to comment 👍🏻👍🏻
slab climbing is scary. On some boulders i didnt do the final move because it was on a (for me) sketchy foot hold and i needed to do a dynamic move to the top
I can definitely relate to that feeling!! It often looks easy from the ground but feels much different once you're the climber who's on the wall! Thanks for commenting 👍🏻👍🏻
I’m sorry but I had to comment that Will Bosi’s V14 called Harambe (not Haram as you pronunced it) is based on our beloved gorilla friend unjustly killed in the Cincinnati Zoo in 2016
The pronounciation of Megos is also odd, right? And I don't understand why he rearenges Tomoa Narasaki's name. I'm Spanish though, so I could be wrong in both counts...
Thank you for the correction! I was thinking maybe it was a soft "b" and silent "e" but now after looking it up I see what you're saying... it ends with more of a "bay" sound. I hadn't realized the connection or meaning either, so I appreciate you pointing that out👍🏻👍🏻
I was probably inconsistent on my pronunciation of Megos due to uncertainty about the vowel sound of the "o" in his name. Hopefully I can improve that one for next time. In regard to Tomoa, that was purposeful. I learned recently that in Japan, family names are listed first, followed by given names. China and Korea follow this naming convention too. It's the opposite of how we order names in the U.S. and many western countries. I suppose the most ideal scenario is if I could ask Tomoa which he prefers... but in lieu of that I try to opt for what's most common in each person's country. Thanks for commenting 👍🏻👍🏻
My friend said she saw him at The Hive climbing gym in Surrey BC! She wasn’t sure that it was him but he later posted something on his social media about climbing in Squamish, so he was indeed here.
@@Jonny-dd8sg Yes, that would be amazing!! I can’t wait to see someone repeat Silence. Stefano Ghisolfi has been making good progress. I’d love to see Megos projecting it as well 👍🏻👍🏻
@@augustclimbing could actually imagine this being megos style as it is also partially a flexibility problem where alex and adam are probably the best at.
Have you make a video abt how a nation only dominate certain category in sport climbing? For example like japan who succeed in B&L but not in speed and Indonesia who succeed in Speed but not in B&L? Also poland who succeed in women speed but not in men speed And how USA can dominate the both category with Sam Watson owning the WR, Raboutou took home a silver and sending 8 climbers (the only nation which sent the most athletes)
I have not made a video like that yet, but it’s something I’ve been considering! I’m interested to dive into some of the stories behind those realities that you mentioned. Hopefully I can put together a great video as a result… explaining how things developed to where they are now. Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻 It helps me know what people are interested in seeing 🙂
@@augustclimbing thank you for responding my comment. This idea maybe push you some times for research but i'll be patiently waiting for that content 👌
Indonesian here, i think one of the reason why Indonesia only succeed in Speed and not B&L is because lack of B&L wall infrastructure. Speed Wall is very common here and can be found almost in every Unis and some high schools. Meanwhile B&L wall only in specific place
That's a good question! It may have something to do with Indonesia prioritizing the development of athletes in speed climbing specifically. I'd be interested to research that question further. Hopefully we'll start to see more Indonesian athletes competing in boulder and lead as well. Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
I have mixed feelings about Mori Ai's struggles in the bouldering. Lack of reach is a very obvious disadvantage, but being small also comes with advantages. In particular, being light increases the chances of having an exceptionally favorable strength-to-weight ratio due to the physics concept known as scaling. Also, for someone with small hands, the holds are larger in a relative sense. So, if all of the route setting were done specifically for someone of Mori Ai's stature, athletes like Janja Garnbret wouldn't stand much of a chance.
Hey, Adam! I also have mixed feelings about it... and those are great insights. Advantages and disadvantages are for sure part of climbing. And the decisions that route setters make can have a big impact. I'm sure for the setters it's incredibly hard to get the balance right, making it mostly fair for everyone, trying not to greatly favor one athlete or height... all the while needing to set problems that lead to a spread in the scores/results at the end of the comp. These are important conversations to have, and in retrospect there probably could have been adjustments like slightly lower starting holds on B1. But with an array of variables, it's also hard to know how much of a difference this would have led to in the overall results. I am glad that we get to have these conversations in climbing... for so many other sports it just is what it is. I guess climbing is pretty special in that way that we can even have these types of controversies and conversations!
Hey, I sure am! Did you have any questions about it? I've been very happy with the watch and COROS in general. I appreciate that they continue to consider climbers in the development of their products and software 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey, Mariana! Yes, I wish that Mori Ai at least would have able to reach that starting position on B1. She climbed so well, especially in lead... hopefully we can see separate medals for boulder and lead in the next Olympics. I could definitely see Mori Ai walking away with a Gold in Lead in 2028! Thanks for commenting 👍🏻👍🏻
@@augustclimbing It is too fast to predict who will win in LA.First, I would not count Janja out, statistically she wins often then Ai in lead till this moment, when they both participate. Second, LA will be after 4 years, girls who have 14, even 13 at the moment, could participate in LA as well theoretically. New generation of climbers. Who could tell that gold in LA will not belong to one of them?
The decisions of the route setters do indeed have an impact on some problems being harder for shorter climbers and some being harder for taller climbers. In this case, the Electric and Coordination problems were generally more difficult for shorter climbers like Mori Ai. However, the Power boulder, for example, seemed to favor shorter climbers. And the lead round offered some "balance" by suiting Mori Ai quite well. I'm not saying that the Women's final got this balance exactly right or that it was 100% fair. In fact, I'm not sure that complete fairness can even be achieved with all the nuances and variables of sport climbing. I do think this is an important conversation to have. A few things that would be nice to see in the future... ensure that a shorter competitor with a reasonable amount of power will at least be able to start a boulder problem. Having more female route setters would be great as well! And as others have noted, having a medal for boulder as its own discipline and another medal for lead as its own discipline would be an improvement for the next Olympics! Thanks for commenting 👍🏻👍🏻 And feel free to share any additional thoughts!
@@augustclimbingBut then AI should also get at least 10kg heavy jacket for lead as taller competitors are automatically heavier and have more gravity to ovecome than AI - all for the sake of fairness.
@@NemoElohemi Thank you for your comment. Since I'm not good at English, I'm replying using automatic translation. I think your opinion is excellent. Even if it's difficult to create 100% fair rules, I also believe it was a fault of the organizers to set up a course where some competitors couldn't even start. I think we should be more critical of this, and the organizers should acknowledge the issue and address it. Unlike usual competitions, this was the Olympics. People who normally have no interest in this sport watched the event on television, and children around the world also watched. Can the organizers confidently say to them, "It's normal not to be able to reach the first hold," or "That's just how climbing is"? At least, I couldn't.
