@edwardseth1230 no. It runs at mains power 220v. I don't think a PC fan is powerful enough for a bathroom. For other applications, of course, you can use a PC fan.
@@Racov let me clearify. when i ask what is the size of the fan you said.. 20CM.. so i replied to the dimention of the PC fan.. 120 Diameter and 20cm grith or deep... cause there are old SERVER fans that size and very rugged.. the modern RGB fans of the same size 120x20cm are more or less.. very flimsy. good to run a pc.. but not for this type of application.
@edwardseth1230 True. Misunderstanding. The fan frame size is 20x20 centimetres and the deep around 4 centimetres. It runs at mains power 220v. It is indeed a spare part from an industrial computer. The PC fan is 120x20 millimetres (12x2 centimetres)
@@Racov thanks. Do you have any idea what does it mean M/S and N.C ? btw here is my ports; | 22v 22v gnd gnd | 5v 5v gnd | N.C ON DIM M/S | i'm really thinking about disassamble the huge ccfl inverter off the AIP-0178 board :)
Hey im just wondering, is there a way for me to actually send the serial into the ardunio software, such that I can read it through there? Saw you had the output of the Orbitron DDE to com7, is there any way I can read that com7 into arduino. Maybe even to print just the string. Because my idea is to hopefully pass the az,el in your case from com7 into ardunio, and use a PID to control the motors to that specific AZ, EL displayed. Thanks :)
yo could you please help me i bought myself one like this one and i connected the iso connector to it (the adapter) and it just wont turn on and i dont know why
Hi. The stereo is installed in the car or on the bench? Use a voltmeter to check the voltage. You should have 12-13V between black and yellow. You can connect together red and yellow for a test. It is not necessary to connect speakers.
@@Racov i installed it in my car using a din set. i dont own a voltmeter unfortunately. it says 10 the red fuse thing so maybe its 10V? what is the probability that my radio is just broken? or is it my iso connector adapter
@Void-rv6xe 10 on the red fuse means 10 amperes. Different thing. So you use an intermediate connector to install the stereo in your car. The chances the stereo is broken are very small. I suspect wrong wiring. If you turn the car key contact, still nothing?
@@Racov yea i turn the electricity on and theres nothing. so should i find a new adapter? and what should i pay attention to. theres a gap in my adapter whereas on my cars cable theres some more metal ends that i think are supposed to be connected. so basically besides power and speaker from the iso connector when u connect car with adapter
@@dakazze Yes, I have news: I actually run it off a Panasonic 4.5V 500ma power supply from a discman. The tablet is a Lenovo. I thought it was a fault of the internal batt, but actually the usb port seems to have bad contact to the mainboard and cannot charge properly. So, anyway. Was running off a Li-Ion perfectly. Then I had bbq, some wine and connected a 2cell lipo. Didn't start, went to bed! Next morning I realized I connected over 8v. So, I thought I fried the controller. The tablet was dead. Later I found out that the start button was not reacting well. Shorted the contacts with a screwdriver and that bloody thing started again. Since charging doesn't work, I tried to find a proper psu. The original batt has 4.4V, so the Panasonic is just about right. I heard that 5V usually is ok, too, but the bmc can get hot. I do believe the controller has an overvoltage protection, since it didn't get fried when I connected the 2 cell lipo by mistake. Try to find these silicone diodes in your spare electronics. They lower voltages by 0.7V. Then you are on the safe side. With 5V you might scratch at the limit the controller was made to operate on. Hope this was helpful. I wrote this from the Lenovo which is on 100% all the time, now😁
@@InTheSh8 Thanks for your reply mate I appreciate it! I witnessed VERY strange behavior with my tablet: After doing all the disassembly and wiring I hooked the controller up to my lab-power supply and started out with 4V, simulating a almost fully charged battery. The battery even said 3.8V... When I tried powering the tablet it was stuck in a bootloop. The higher I cranked the voltage the further it got in the boot process and finally at 5V (!!!!) it was able to boot. I wont complain since it made it easy to hook it up to a old PSU I had laying around but I have no idea how it is possible that the device worked fine before at only 3.8V and now it needs 5V to the same contacts. All in all the process was easier than anticipated.
@@dakazze I have seen other videos with people stuck in that boot loop and having to simulate the "sag" of a battery with an electronic circuit. My whole journey was rather chaotic as I already mentioned to you, having an issue with the start button right when I thought I blew the tablet up with an almost fully charged 2S lipo. I was also too embarrassed to tell you that I actually burned a diode or resistor on the tablet's mainboard. It happened that morning after! I still had the unreliable start button, fiddling around with a losely connected li-ion battery at the back, shorting some contacts and suddenly that component started glowing! I thought everything was damaged "for good". A day later I saw that it would still at least show the "Lenovo" sign with the charger connected. At the same time I also started shorting the start button with a screwdriver and the tab came back to life. I think I destroyed a component, necessary to check if a battery is attached since it runs off that Panasonic 4.5V psu, now, stable.
@@dakazze 2nd part: So, on 5V it runs reliably, now? Many have the problem that the tablet software calculates a theoretical depletion of the no longer existing battery and doesn't understand it is on a stable power source. Mine is at 100% all the time luckily. Did you maybe not set enough amps when trying with 4V to boot, not intentionally, but by mistake or so? Lastly I think you overrode a threshold with 5V where the circuit assumes a fully charged battery with a charger connected at the usb port and somehow "gives a green light" to boot!!
My old tablet has 2 3.7v batteries connected to the controller; how does it work in this case? Do I need to find a 3.7v power supply and connect it to the 4 terminals?
Hi. I will try first with only one battery. The bigger one, if there is such. As you see in the video, the 5V from the USB is OK. The little battery controller will take care of it.
@@Racov Alright, I'll attempt and report, thank you. I also have a DC step down controller but my multimeter is unavailable at the moment, so I couldn't regulate it.
@pcostadias the green arrow always shows up, it's just how PST works. If there's no feedback, it stays at zero. Make sure to select communication protocol (AZ/EL) K3NG Easycomm. Your email doesn't work.
I have been for a long time trying to do this to an Acer but mine must be special. I did the connections as in 10:53 but the enable signal (from the video board) rises and lowers two times and then stays low, like if the video board was expecting some kind of response from the power board that doesn't get, maybe some current consumption, tried to fake some consumption in the enable wire (from the video board), doesn't seem to work. The wires that connect the video board with the power board are: Vcc(x2) Gnd(x2) Enable(cut) Brightness Volume Mute. Does somebody know why this might happen?
Check out the link în the description racov.ro/index.php/2021/08/13/antenna-construction-cross-yagi-vhf-band-6-elements-2-meters-long-circular-polarization-9db-gain/
Fantastic Video, thank you. This is what I have been looking to build myself, the 2m and 70cms antennas. Can you please tell me what length dipole you used on your 70cms version of this antenna please, I can find the measurement for isolated elements but not for non-isolated
@@Racov am văzut că se leagă serii de 7-8 leduri de 3v pe tensiunea de 24 de la sursă , și mai multe serii in paralel , dar reglajul luminozității nu am idee cum se poate face
Televizorul tău are tuburi CCFL si vrei sa le înlocuiești cu LED? Dacă da, atunci îți trebuie, ca în filmul meu, o sursa specială care se conectează în circuitul televizorului. Nu am idee cum, depinde de fiecare model. Și baghete LED compatibile. Dacă televizorul are iluminare LED, atunci trebuie doar sa cauți baghetele LED specifice lui. De obicei ele se alimentează undeva la 60V. Ce spui tu cu serie - paralel, nu mi se pare în regulă.
