this channel is primarily about classic car restoration mainly minis with some alternative engine upgrades, although I do take on other projects including building, boat building and landrovers
Thanks, the anti stone chip sprayed really easy, but it took over a day to cure and go black, personally I prefer the raptor as it flashes off in around 40 minutes. Nice to try different products. Cheers Marty
Hi, we used a piper 270 cam, ran a 270 in a 1275 and it ran quite smooth but it's lumpier in the 998 which is pretty much what I expected, good fun to drive pulls well from around 2500 rpm right through to around 6000 were it peaked on the Dyno. Cheers Marty
@@Massiverobsfishing hi, thank you for your comment, yeah totally agree with you but on the plans it states fully welding in the tank to create a complete seal, all the floors on this boat are sealed into three compartments, I decided to stich and I'm going to use marine sealant to create the seal, if I have to take it out at some point in the future it shouldn't be too big a job. Cheers Marty
From memory it was about 40 thou, I had a lot of metal in the head casting so was able to take off plenty, some of the heads the face isn't very thick so you can't take much off. Good luck with your project, Cheers Marty
What casting is it and has it been faced before?, the head I was facing in my video had never been machined before which is pretty rare because of the age of them most have been worked on, trust your machine shop they would have calculated it, what compression are you going to run? Cheers Marty
Hi, I cannot pass on, or sell the drawings as HMD have the architectural rights of the drawings, you could contact them for further information. I,m glad you like the boat, cheers Marty
If I'm painting then I start with 80 then 180, but aluminium polishes really easy so you can start with 80,180,320,600,800 then buff and it will shine like chrome. Cheers Marty
Yer cheers mate, I’m getting a boat welded up but I need to do the finishing sanding clean up ect , was thinking of sanding back then acid wash then penetrol the thing then part wrap it what u rekon
Sounds good to me, go down to 240 then penetrol, make sure you get the aluminium penetrol as there are different types, I'm going to use penetrol on the hill on my boat, good luck with the finishing. Cheers Marty
Thanks Daz, I don't have a folder, I used an old RSJ and bolted some thick wall square section which I reinforced the corners with angle iron, bolted in the plate and beat the crap out of it with a large hammer. The Tig welding is work in progress lots to learn. Cheers Marty
Thanks Daz, this one has been a labor of love, been working on it for some years keeps getting put on the back burner so i can complete other projects, just about everything is modified so have to keep making parts, it is getting close to being finished now. the engine did come out of a MG metro turbo and the mini was on the road in the UK some 15 years ago. cheers Marty
Thanks Daz, amazing what you can do with a grinder and a hammer. my son has just bought a ac/dc Tig welder so have been playing with that, it's not easy, kept blowing holes at first but getting better, going to try and tig some of my bodywork as less clean up time and softer welds. Cheers Marty
Hi, the plans will be no good for you as they are assembly diagrams with no real dimensions on them, I think HMD would be very offended if I was to sell them to you as they have put years of time and development into them. sorry I can't help you. cheers Marty
Hi, would allow $1,200 to $1,500 for folding a boat my size with cab. there are a number of parts from memory around 70 folded panels for mine. Cheers Marty
Hey mate awesome build would've been awesome to have your camera angle full screen but inspirational work I'm looking at doing a CNC marine kit I'm down south island Nelson so be a good build most likely record the whole process like you did too
Hi, thank you for the great comments, yeah not that good with the camera but getting better, did have a problem with the sound as well, just using phone to record video's. Great place to live Nelson. Good luck with the build look forward to seeing your video's. Cheers Marty
Great idea that's what I will do, it will save me keep getting under the car to do up nuts, probably a two person job if I used nuts and bolts. Thanks for your comment, cheers Marty
Nice vblog.. good to see your into a series mini too. ?(I have a Midas kit car) Just found your build. I don't see many ally boats being worked on in UK. I have a 5083 ally sailing boat. 1/4 inch plate for keel reducing to 2.5mm topsides. Fair winds.
thanks for the comment, always had mini's great little cars. lots of alloy boats here in NZ nearly all new fishing boats are alloy now. What size is your sailor? cheers Marty
The sailing boat is called an extrovert 22, designed by a guy called Julian Everitt. Made back in the early 1980's near Blyth, North East England. A company that also made gang walks into cruise ships I think and then survival vessels also out of ally. The construction involves a 2inch tubular space frame with plates butt welded to the tubes to create chines. I think they used 2 welders running on opposite sides simultaneously to stop distortion..that's what I was told. Using some kind of roller attachment to space off the mig torch. Your boat at 6mm will be basically bullet proof. Even if you foundered it. No sparks either so gas safe. 😊. Fair winds.
that sounds like quite a clever way of building back in the 80's, it's a lot easier now with cad design and cnc cutting techniques takes all the guess work out, there's a few really good alloy sailing builds on you tube if you haven't already seen them. I guess your boat would be fairly light. Cheers Marty
I've seen one or two recent ally boat builds. Lots now turning to ally. Even Delos which is a big boating channel and distant shores. The tubular method seems super strong and means no stress on welded joints..down side seems to be you can't get to back of the weld to run a second pass to make it water tight so easy when replacing panels.
Hi, glad to see I have inspired someone, and a big thanks for the great comments, will be back on the boat soon, I have a few other projects to finish first. I can't wait to get it finished myself and on the water. cheers Marty
yeah a parts washer would be awesome, or a vapour blaster, the block and head was chemically cleaned after the machine shop did the facing, we did then clean it again with brake cleaner, the gearbox does look dirty but it had black and blue paint on it we tried to pressure wash this off outside but it was to stubborn. cheers Marty
Hi, I used an6 compression fittings, they have an olive on the hardline side just nip them up like a house hold plumbing fitting. Hard line sir had two sizes 3/8 and 5/16 from memory. Cheers Marty 😊
@martysprojects Im assuming the hardline is 8mm you are using, onto 5/16 rubber hose? Thanks for the reply . Just catching up on the rest of your videos.
@@alistairrussell4562 no it's not a metric 8mm it is 5/-16 to fit the AN hardline fittings, and 3/8 for the larger pipe. Thanks for watching the video hope you get something from it. Cheers Marty
Nice repair pal, I had a spell making exhaust systems, mass-produced for anything from trucks to ferries, I know what you mean about tight... usually when the baffles are in... they're in. The outta skin would be rolled and then held in place on a machine Larger ones would have a bead down the seam using submerged ark welding and ending up with your tube or barrel, .the baffles (sub assembled) would be on another part of the machine, you would hit the floor peddle and the baffles would be push fitted in. The outer skin would stretch as they went in.
I wondered how they made them, i should of recorded a video of me making the tube, I used a piece of wire to measure the circumference then added extra for folds, then folded ends in folder and bent it round a tube till i got the shape. it was tight had to bash on with a soft hammer, it's all back on the landy now and no leaks. cheers Marty
hi, thanks for the great comment, yeah I cant wait to get it in paint, been busy on the house recently so haven't done any work on my projects but should be back on them soon. cheers Marty
Hi Mate, been doing house renovations all over xmas and into the new year, so haven't had a chance to do any more work on it, should be back on it soon though. Great your using yours, love to see a video of the boat how does it behave on the water? cheers Marty
@@martysprojects getting the house done is good though, I’m a builder so I know how it is😂 yea it’s good aye, handles chop really nicely and is really good to fish out of. Put a 130 Yamaha on it, goes really good. You’ll love it once you have finished yours. Not sure if I mentioned before but my mate has done a 7.3-7.5m hard top, and has just ordered his new one, a 8.7m I think, diesel inboard. Going to be a weapon of a boat!
Yeah I'm a builder to, been at it far to long, that's why I enjoy doing my projects something different and no pressure. sounds like you have built a great boat. was your mates HMD as well? diesel got to be the way forward, heaps of torque and good on fuel. cheers Marty
Hi Marty, looking really good. I've been looking between the HMD, DIYNO and CNC kits. The HMD claim they give you all the plate you need for full fit out, but I'm seeing you having to fab slot of what I'd say are critical parts like switch mounting boards, inside helm mounting sheets, wire guides etc. Did you expect that or was that a surprise? Did it all match up with guide marks pretty well? Cheers mate. Good vids and looking forward to the finished project, fit out is the fun part.
Hi, yes all the plate comes with HMD kit including fuel tank with plenty of ally left over for for any extra bits you want to add, but no extrusions, so you have to purchase handrails, tube for rod holders and curved gunwale edge detail, so there will be some extra costs, can't say for sure but I think all the kits are like that, HMD can supply all the parts at extra cost or you can get them at Ullrich Aluminium, every kit boat is in some way individual in it's build which makes it your own, so you can have different layouts for lights, switches, pumps etc so you can build them to your particular needs, this is why I have added extra plates for fuse boxes etc, I didn't need to that's the flexibility of building your own. I did look at other Kits that were cheaper but the HMD kit was the best looking in my opinion and good after sales technical help, can't tell you about the other company's but the kit goes together very well, it has a thicker hull than the others which is 6mm, you have to trust the process take your time think about the assembly and make sure all the lines fit up and check measure everything, all the panels have lines on them were they marry up and they do marry up well, all the panels also have fold lines with degrees of fold on them, so you will have to pay to get the panels folded. glad you liked the video's, hopefully post some more videos soon been busy on other projects lately. check out purekraft reviews on youtube which is they're sister company that builds finished boats they are pretty awesome. if you want any more info please don't hesitate to ask. you could also talk to Jarrod at HMD about the kits and pricing. Cheers Marty
Hi, It's my son who knows Steve at Blenheim so that's why we took it there, haven't tried anywhere else, any tuner should be able to sort your car out or diagnose any issues, old classics are a bit more fiddly because it's mechanical changes not software so good to go with someone who's used to working with mini's. but DYNO is the way to go for the best tune up. cheers Martin
