This channel will encompass the main focuses of my life, building experimental aircraft, ,machining,woodworking and in general building "stuff" as well as family and friends. You can check out my blog at hillsgun.com which for now is focusing on the plans building of my Zenith 701 , but I may occasionally stray and add content which relates to our family and lifestyle. Please take a while and explore what I have to offer.
Hey thanks for this video. I've been searching high and low to figure out this 11-87 Special Purpose 12 gauge. I'll order new O ring and make sure the spring is good. I'm thinking this is all it is. No need for a reply. Appreciate you. Keep up the video's. Thanks
In Part 2 (I think) you mentioned the Mould guide may not be original. The part that slides in the pot supports looks identical to the one in my pot. The aluminum but however, on yours looks different as the slot in the aluminum on mine is not centered. And I have a small square “tab” on the back of mine, as if Lyman wanted to give a little extra support to the one fastener. Odd. But the knob I. Yours is different from mine as well. Yours being more round. Maybe between yours and mine Lyman made design modifications. Thank you again for this series. Very helpful. Cheers. reb
I have just purchased a Lyman Mold Master that needs some TLC. Thank you for taking the time to produce this YouRube. It is very helpful. One question, and I know I am very late to this party so if it doesn’t get seen, I totally understand. How did you get all the lead out of the pot to dismantle the handle, etc? My pot is so dirty inside there is a lot of lead sticking to the sides. Did you use a flux of some sort? Thank you for your help. Cheers, Robert Booth
You are welcome, normally I just heat up the pot and use the spoon that I skim the dross with and pop the chunks of crap off of the side. If you undo the lever from the nozzle stopper( bad terminology ) you can pull the nozzle stopper from the pot with a pair of pliers once it is heated up. Good luck, Dan.
I've got a 49 and a 51 AD pickup. Both mine are still in the ruff. My brother built a 54 and he made his own Mustang 2 front end and put a 350 with 700r-4 transmission. He also built a 41 COE. He just finished the COE when Covid took him away from me. He was more than my brother he was my best friend. Of all his creations the 54 and COE were Bad A$$.
All these old vehicles tell a story, both from their history and their owners, the front end in the video is my manufacture from plans . While words quite often mean little I am sorry for your loss. Dan.
Do you know if the forend on the Sportman model will fit on the Primer with a LC barrel? Mine has a very bad crack. It's near impossible to find the forends in glossy dark walnut with the diamond pattern anywhere at a reasonable price.
@@hillsgun Both are 11-87. The Sportsman Field model has different checkering pattern but unable to verify if inside of forend are the same. I know the 1100 forend will not fit on the 11-87.
I can’t tell you for sure, I believe there were at least 2 different inner lengths depending on where the barrel lug contacted the wood, I think this was for both the 2 3/4 and 3 inch guns and had to do with earlier versus later guns, and there is a difference between the wood depending on the barrel contours. I am going from memory so I may be way off , sorry I am not more help. Dan.
I have 1187 police and an 1187 premier. When I load the magazine tube on both and have an empty chamber, I pull the bolt back and the bolt locks in place and then I push the bolt release to load the chamber. I notice on some you tube videos 1187 owners pull the bolt back and it doesn't lock, and the round goes directly into the chamber. Why doesn't that happen with my 1187's? I hope you can answer my questions. I enjoy your videos. Thank you.
I believe that they were designed to operate the way that yours are operating, it has to do with shell latch/carrier timing and shell latch wear or having been worked on previously. Most of the 11/87’s by now have seen a lot of use and wear so shell latches have worn,broken, and many replaced so their function has been altered by all of those factors as well as how they load between 2 3/4, 3, and 3 1/2 inch shells. I suspect that many have also been used for 3 gun competition and have been specifically “tuned” to operate by only cycling the bolt . Hope that helps, Dan.
@@hillsgun Yes that makes sense. Occasionally my 1187 police does do it but very rarely. One other question, if you were in a gunfight and you had to use a semi auto shotgun would you have any reservations using the 1187? Or, what would be your top 3 semi auto shotgun picks?
I do my best to avoid gunfights,but since we are going off into the weeds here a shotgun is my last choice , but if it is my only choice the top three is a Beneli
For that quick change gear box, they can take a flying leap! My decent condition complete running and ready to go 12 inch Atlas lathe cost $500 and they want 1/2 more for just a gear box 🤢🤯 A person would be money ahead doing an electronic lead screw.
Yes, it’s way overpriced. I have mixed feelings about electronic lead screws and stepper or servo drives on the Atlas. I agree that they are very useful and work well for the advanced user, but most people are setting them up as either their first lathe or as a machine for their hobby shop where they can “putter”. For many who are starting out it can be hard to learn the basics and when you add electronics to the mix it becomes even more difficult. There is an older gentleman on one of the lists that I monitor who aggressively promotes converting lathes to cnc and Linux, every time someone joins the list because they have come up with a new machine and are searching for parts he will expound on all the benefits such as accuracy and the repeatability and how months or years later he can enter the same program and have another exactly dimensioned part. I consider it a great disservice since he does not say anything about the steep learning curve of cad and cam for many new individuals or the large amount of tooling necessary to have that repeatability since anytime you remove a tool from its holder the repeatability is gone until the time is spent to reset it and update the software. Long rant I know but for most the KISS principle is best so I don’t usually promote electronics beyond a DRO. Dan.
I have outfitted a pretty good shop from local online shopping. I set my sights on what I need, squirrel away a little money each week and wait for the deal. When the right machine pops up and the numbers are working I make an assertive contact to purchase without tire kicking or asking too many questions. I'm willing to drive a few hours. I value tools as to "what they are worth to me" and how they can earn their keep. I've also been - simply- very lucky with quality and/or serviceability.
And a fine shop can be attained that way, the only problem with it is the statement of “how they can earn their keep”. Usually my desire/lust for a machine outweighs it’s ability to be profitable
I agree Dan. A $500 dollar lathe is a $500 dollar lathe next door to me or 1500 miles away. The shipping is what makes the $500 dollar machine that my neighbor is selling a much better buy. On the old man issue some old men are a$$holes and were that way before they got old. I am old and the only shipping cost I take exception to are the extremely inflated ones. If I don't like the shipping cost, I just choose to move on and don't complain to the seller. I understand that McMaster Carr has to pay someone to put a 5 dollar item in a box. So the cost is called Shipping and Handling. The cost of putting the part in the box is called Overhead or Burden in the accounting world. When the Old a$$hole makes his own part let him go out and buy the material and he may see it is cheaper to buy yours than to buy and get the material shipped to him.
I do occasionally but haven’t promoted it lately, shoot me an email and we can discuss it further, in most instances it is not cost effective depending on what we are doing. Thanks dan@hillsgun.com
Patience is a virtue for a reason 💁🏼♂️ I’m sorry people are getting to the point of harassing/bullying you to save a couple of bucks. Stay strong in what you’re doing sir!
Yes it is (patience). I don't really consider it harassment, and it is really hard to bully me, I just find it irritating that many people feel this sense of entitlement like I owe them something for whatever reason and it is sad that this individual from an older generation shares the entitlement view when they should have higher standards. Dan.
Value largely depends on location. Cast iron tools are worth very little in the Midwest, but where I live, they are much harder to come by. I've tooled a very healthy shop by understanding my local values and purchasing machines with tooling at bargain prices. I keep what I want or need, refresh the tools themselves and resell them. I've done particularly well with Atlas/Craftsman 12" "Commercial" lathes. Currently I am restoring two South Bend 10K's, which are wonderful lathes.
I can understand your perspective but I will largely disagree , from my point of view its value does not depend on where it is located. The cost to acquire a machine will vary depending on availability and location,but that doesn’t change what the machine is worth. What changes is what someone is willing to pay to have that machine, quite often machines from the Midwest have seen a hard life in industry and there are more available because of those industries so they don’t bring as much in that area, same with the east coast,and California which is why you see so many of them listed on fleabay. It’s been my experience that if a person is patient machines appear everywhere (often where they are not expected) if you are buying machines and tooling at bargain prices then they must be available to you also but that still doesn’t change what they are worth, only that you feel you purchased at below what the perceived value is for your location and others will be willing to pay more for your surplus. Dan.
@@hillsgun There's a market. Same holds true for literally everything. Im sure if you're patent enough someone will GIVE you a tool too. The bottom line is that machines in the Midwest are cheap, because there are a shit load of them available...
Thanks for all the excellent vids on the grizzly mill. Also love your channel. If you had your time again, would you buy the G0755 again? Cheers Jimbo from Australia.
Thank you, would I buy the go755 again? Probably, it’s done what I have asked it to do and has paid for itself by now but it is a constant work in progress. As with most import machines it is basically a kit to start from and the quality of this particular machine is not that good. I had previously bought the go602 lathe to convert to cnc and I have been exceptionally pleased with it from the very beginning so the Grizzly machines are hit and miss, sometimes you will get a good one and sometimes bad the 755 is at the bottom of the scale so I don’t know if it is this particular machine or all the 755 ‘s. I will keep this one as I have it to the point of a pretty good machine that suits my needs and space for now although in the future it may get some major changes. Thanks again, Dan.
@@hillsgun Many thanks for providing your very helpful and insightful comments Dan. I agree with taking the kit perspective at that price point and besides doing upgrades is enjoyable as well as very useful. Thanks again cheers, Jimbo.
I have a Ruger with rubber/ composite stock and it has u shaped hangers that are attached to the sides? so do the same thing after removing the hangers? Thanks for any advice
Yes, the early shapers used the cast iron design and was then changed to the zamak parts. I believe the design change was to prevent serious damage to the shaper. When using the cast iron parts if the power feed was allowed to reach the end of travel and bind there was no designed failure point or “fuse” to stop the automatic travel so you could damage the lead screw, nut, or gearing. By using zamak the outer housing would fail providing a relatively inexpensive repair by replacing the cover which is why now you see so many shapers with cracked feed covers. There have been a few attempts to produce replacements,but in my opinion none have been very successful. I have also been working on replacements but mine are not quite ready . Thanks, Dan.
I agree about the over valuing and the bigger shaper. I have a Southbend 7" in as near perfect condition as you could buy. All original including the keys to the drawers of the original table. I paid $800 for it. I consider that a fair price for both myself and the seller. I've seen them on Ebay for upwards of $2000. I own it because I wanted it not because of its capabilities. I have 2 vertical mills and an atlas horizontal that are more capable than the little shaper. I would love to have a bigger one, but I don't even use the 7". What can I say? Sellers on Ebay get rich by selling to people who want things they do not need. LOL. Dan I am laughing at myself because sometimes I am the Hammer and other days I am the Nail...BTW I consider the Southbend a better shaper than the Atlas.
South Bend better than an Atlas--- you only think that because a South Bend is a better shaper than an Atlas. There is the cult following for the Atlas, just as there is for the South Bend but from an objective perspective the South Bend machines are more robust and are built to a more “industrial “ standard,while the Atlas machines were built as more economical machines to put more machines in the hands of the home/hobby machinists (not that they weren’t sold to actual shops also} which is why you could put down your modest down payment and then make your 8 or 10 dollar monthly payments.
Those 6” change gears were WAY overpriced! I could buy a set of cutters, the materials, and make two sets of gears and still be money ahead. One set for me and one set to sell to recoup any money used. People must have emotional attachment price inflation with these parts 🤢 Thank you again for making these videos 👍🏻
I really like the color. Did you prime before topcoat and what paint did you use? I repainted my 5913 Clausing Charcoal gray on the bottom and white on the top. Leaving the saddle and cross slide unpainted because of such an abrasive environment. The last 2 evenings I have been machining a new nut for the cross slide and am making it out of cast iron. As soon as I get the nut done, I will be making a new lead screw for the cross slide as well. I've been working on it for the last 3 years off and on. Almost finished.
Thank you, yes I prime first with a rust primer, for this project I am using a standard implement paint from Ace (custom blend). While not as durable as a poly it is available locally, is relatively inexpensive, and easy to apply and touch up. Good luck with your project. Dan.
Probably cheap ammo is my first guess. Just enough pressure to unlock, and eject the empty but not enough to cycle the bolt fully to the rear and trip the shell latch. This will also happen with lighter steel shot as it runs lower pressure. This is assuming a clean and maintained gun.
It is a standard 10” I built as a turret lathe for production, no it is not a commercial. The only real changes you will see from the more common 10” machines is it is built with the vertical countershaft and all the turret lathe/production accessories. Thanks, Dan.
@@hillsgun Ive got a QC-42 (10", 1950, horizontal) and a 9" from 1940 that's vertical. It looks nothing like my 9". Maybe there was a change after the 40s
You are 100% correct on the value of Atlas / Craftsman lathes not being worth what people think. I am doing a complete rebuild of my 12” from 1957. New paint and new bearings, bushings and replacing all worn out parts. I have invested more money in the restoration than what this machine is worth. I figured it was cheaper than restoring an old car and a good working metal lathe is something that I have always wanted. It’s impressive that these old machines were made to be repaired. Atlas kept the design simple and used off the shelf wear items that are still available. All oilite bushings are a stock size and new Timken headstock bearings are still available. Thanks for your thoughts on these machines.
Thank you, yes many parts are standard items which are readily available although last time I checked the timken bearings for the lathe were extremely expensive which was not the case for the mill. Good luck with your project. Dan.
Definitely great craftsmanship. Using a hard face hammer with a punch and a soft face dead blow hammer. I cringed when I see people banging on steel with hard faced hammers. My mentor taught me to use a brass hammer when necessary. Company policy was you would be fired if seen using a hard face hammer on a shaft. they were serious enough about it to buy us all a brass hammer. Mine got stollen when the meth heads stole all my tools but I made my own with aluminum face on Harbor Freight plastic faced hammers. Brass is so high I refuse to pay the price unless it is totally necessary. Enjoying the project and I will return for more of it. I did manage to keep my brass punches all made from brass round stock over 45 years ago. they are also a must have in my shop.
Thank you, the brass drift I was using is an old brass/bronze? screw I came across someplace probably about 50 years ago and has been in my toolbox since then, I have other fancier punches, but for stuff like this it is my go to tool and has held up well.
What is a fair asking price for an Atlas Mill that has been fully restored. Machine is in very good condition. It has the original vice and overarm support as well and the stand and power feed work fine. 2 arbors and 4 cutters included. works fine I just want to make room in my shop. I already have 2 vertical mills.
Your going to have to decide what your machine is worth and what someone is willing to pay for it, I am pretty harsh on values, for me a “fully restored “ machine does not increase its value because everyone’s definition of restored is subjective.accessories obviously increase value, but condition and appearance is also a factor. It’s relatively easy for me to say what I think a machine is worth when I look at the fleabay machines because 99% are overpriced in my opinion, but many will disagree and may pay what the sellers are asking. For me a complete machine in what appears to be in good condition is maybe worth 750 to 800, but I doubt that I would pay more than about 600, A machine that is exceptionally well tooled in my opinion should be worth no more than 1500. This is only my opinion but I usually think the machines are worth about half of what is being asked on fleabay.
@@hillsgun Thanks. I paid around $700 for it when I bought it. I am like you some of the prices are way out of the ballpark. I always say I will pay more when I really want something than what it is worth. I seem to make my best deals when I just have a Luke warm interest. I just bought a Walker Turner 14" band saw that is in above average condition for $100. Guy was asking $200 I offered $100 . Sometimes you just have to throw it at the wall and see if it sticks. If not then is nothing lost. Thanks for the response. I always like your videos.
First of all, I what to thank you for your postings. I have aquired a Sheldon lathe TE-1136P. your videos have been very helpfull with my attempts to get mine up and running. I am wondering where you got the roller bearings for the lower unit, as I am thinking they will need top be changed on mine. Any help you are willing to extend will be greatly appreciated. Thank you; Stephen
Thank you, I am ashamed to say that the bearings were sourced from Amazon and were not US made. While I try to use USA parts,the reality is that the least expensive alternative was almost 10 times the cost per bearing.
I will certainly be following this project. I just completed re building the saddle of my Clausing 5913 lathe. On those machines the bedways were flame hardened and the wear is on the saddle ways. Rather than using Turcite or Rulon to resurface the ways I used Moglice. I am delighted to say that it is an awesome material for someone like myself that does not want to spend hours and hours scraping . I just finished the re-assembly of the saddle to the bed of the lathe and am now rebuilding the Apron. I've been working on this rebuild for 3 years snow and just about ready to make its first chips. Thanks for bringing us into your shop.
@@hillsgun I certainly can understand that. I am getting so close to being finished with mine that I am forcing myself to stay focused. Not forcing myself to take short cuts or sloppy work but to stay focused. . I really do appreciate you taking the time to document and share your time with us. I make short videos of my work but not consider myself a creator. I mainly take the videos and still pics for self-reference. Thanks again I do know how time consuming it is making the length of videos that real creators like yourself make.
I have MM1 Plans, they are hand drawn so I traced them into CAD and noticed inconsistencies between right/left halves of the bulkheads, how did you manage this? Would love to talk.
Yes there are inconsistencies and it has been noted before.I have 2 sets of M-1 plans, an older, blue print set and a new set and there is no difference between the two. I basically split the difference and will make adjustments as necessary to get a straight and smooth fuselage, don’t overthink it. In cad you can mirror the sides but you will still have no real way of telling which side is correct (if either is) to get the spacing and smooth skin contours along the bulkheads . Dan.
@@hillsgun Thank you for the reply, Exactly what I am concerned about, spacing between skin and bulkheads. When you apply the skin it generates a cone-ish shape which becomes rigid as you wrap it around the bulkheads and if any of the bulkhead comes up short, it would cause deformation of the skin. How are you dealing with this issue?
Machine tools sell for what someone is willing to pay. I have seen asking prices from $500 to $2500 , I personally won’t pay more than about $1000, and they have to be exceptionally well tooled for me to pay that much.
I would say that for 99% of any milling with an end mill the end does not get used...... and no one drills with an end mill......so regrinding the end is a waste of time compared to just cutting 2 mm off of the end and then regrinding it........regrinding the flutes is another factor but you'd need an air bearing as you said. or maybe a linear bearing design.
