This video is exactly what I was looking for! Great explanation of how to patch the firmware to add PRGs. I also love that you included the trouble shooting process to show that it wasn't a linear process and that it took some work. Much appreciated!
Agree with another commenter that you need to find the ground or VCC pins on the EPROM chips and use an ohm meter to check continuity to ground or VCC on the motherboard with the EPROM board plugged into the bus. Even if this board is different from actual Apple 2 boards in the orientation of expansion boards in the bus (or possibly even the orientation of the bus slots on the motherboard) this method will tell you the correct orientation of the boards in the slots.
The card should be oriented with the chips facing the power supply. Also, it must go in the slot furthest from the power supply if it is supposed to be a system rom/language card. Apple II architecture does not allow you to plug any card into any slot. Specific types of cards have to go in specific slots.
Thanks! I already updated the video title based on your find. I didn't think the image search would come up with something. Seems to be very rare. Barely no info online.
It is easy to figure out how the ROM card needs to be inserted. On the EPROMs pin 12 or 14, depending on how many pins 24 or 28 the EPROM has,is always ground. So plug it in and check if pin 12 of is connected to the ground of the pcb. If not turn it around. If you plugged it in the wrong way the EPROMs are probably fried. The little white connector is probably for a speaker. It is labeled SP. The floppy drive is from IBM PC 5150 or XT 5160. I just repaired one today from my own 5160.
Hallo Wolfgang, hervorragende Videos! Besten Dank dafür. Ich habe nur eine Frage: ich bin absolut genau der Anleitung gefolgt und trotzdem erhalte ich Fehlermeldungen. Einmal bei der Installation des Pistorm (hat scheinbar mit der Nachfolgeversion von BUSTER (also Bulleseye) zu tun und später - ich hab’s dann irgendwie hingebogen - bei dem Einbinden der Festplatte (in WinUAE vorbereitet). Beim Starten des Emulators kommt dann irgendwann das hier: „[AUTOCONE] PiStorm Interaction 22 device assigned to $00A0000 Platform custom range: 00E80000-80010000 Da Platform mapped range: 00D0000-18000000 [FSHD-Late] Failed to load file system DOS/3 from fs storage. Da [!!! PISCSI] Found no handler for file system DOS/3 Da ［FSHD-Late］ Failed to load file system DOS/3 from Is storage. Da [!!! PISCSI] Found no handler for file system DOS/3“ Hast du da irgendeinen Tipp für mich? Das wär toll - ich verzweifle bald. Herzliche Grüße, Max
@@RetroWK Wolfgang, ich hab’s hinbekommen. Unfassbar. Ich habe einfach mal die „alte Version 2.61 von WinUAE“ runtergeladen und es damit probiert - ich schwöre, die Einstellungen waren absolut identisch - es geht. Kannst du mir sagen, wie ich es geschickt anstelle, 3 Platten zu „basteln“, eine System (500 MB) eine Games (2 GB) und eine Tools (2 GB)? Ist das dann „auch nur eine hd.hdf“ die dann aufgeteilt wird? Und: muss immer ein Teil nach der Aufteilung „informatiert“ bleiben? Übrigens: ich habe auch die Installationsproblematik gelöst bekommen. Ich musste mit Bullseye arbeiten. Buster ist „zu alt“ für den RP 3A+. Du verwendest ja einen Pie aus 2021. Da funktioniert Buster noch. Unglaublich auf was man da alles achten muss. Anders gesagt: wurdest du deine wirklich ausgezeichnete Anleitung heute nochmal genau so „durchspielen“ (mit neuer „Hardware“, dann gehts leider nicht. Verrückt.
@@markusmohr7420 Da muss ich wohl mal eine neue Anleitung aufnehmen. Das mit den drei Platten geht entweder indem zu eine große HDF machst und die partitionierst oder indem du einfach drei hdf files machst und die in der (ich glaube) config einbindest (da wo du die erste auch eingebunden hast). die email ist wolfgang at wolfgangkierdorf punkt de
My datasette was showing the same problem. Thanks to your video I spent some time fiddling with that button on the PCB and sprayed it and the other switch nearby with contact spray and now it's working again.
Wolfgang, maybe you need to get a bit better at fitting stuff out or a better imagination. Not sure what your experience / credentials are, but I managed to fit an Asus Rog Strix 650e-i gaming WiFi board in mine with an AMD 7700x chip, 32gb of ddr5 Ram, 1tb nvme PCie gen 5 SSD drive & a Powercolor AMD Radeon RX 6400 low profile graphics card in mine and it doesn't overheat I have had it running for days at a time and it is certainly no slouch. So maybe you need to make another video of you refitting your case, this time knowing your stuff!? 😂
"let's destroy a perfectly working GameCube for RU-vid views and to use as a glorified MiSTer case!" This is dumb, if anything all that does is contribute to e-waste. There are so many better options for MiSTer, including PCB cases.
just a suggestion, get an sd card reader extension and build extensions for buttons in that empty space in the opening of the game cube. you can use an sd card mounted in a plate there and you can use buttons for the mister there when you open the case. yu already mentioned the network port in the back, you could probably mount the usb wifi stick in the back so it sits flush with the back plate and now its more accessible without interference from the case, better signal
128MB RAM max for each SIM slot so a total of 256 MB RAM I sold my Phase V 1230 IV w/128 MB RAM for €650 2 months ago on eBay, without the expansion board
Great score! And good video, thanks. I just got an A1200 myself (had an A600 back in the 90’s). My A1200 was in bad shape as well, but cleaned fine and after a recap it runs great. I was also surprised to find a Blizzard 1230 Mk IV card in there, which also works. A happy surprise, as I paid less for the entire unit than the Blizzard goes for online these days.
Oh and mine also had the Amiga logo coloured by a sharpie or something. It was a pain to clean. Tried IPA, acetone, baking soda… finally cleaned using cotton tips, toothpicks and a toothbrush. And all those chemicals.
i have a 1st gen iPad i could use, but i'd like to try this with the 12.9" screen assembly from a 1st gen iPad Pro. do you know the part number for that and if a driver board is made for it? thanks.
In my experience, The problem with these cheap clones is that they don’t usually last all that long. I’ve had several different cheapo clones over the years for simply testing if a game works or not and eventually just went back to using an actual snes.
Awesome! Famicom and NES have different cartridge connectors, with 60 and 72 pins respectively. I've seen adapters for sale online, never tried them though. I think some Famicom games actually had extra sound chips on the carts, but there is no corresponding audio pins on the NES so you potentially have a slightly worse audio experience with an adapter.
The FC Twin is not emulation. It's a hardware clone. It's been released in the US under that name, though I imagine they were manufactured in Poohbearland.
Honestly, 2024 is turning out to be a great year for us retro fans. New breadbin cases, new keyboards, the new upcoming Ultimate64 Elite Mk. 2, etc. Man! The classic breadbin style is finally getting the love it deserves. EDIT: already backed this project.
Happy Haircut!! I was wondering about your first set of keys since the footprint that you used didn't match the keys that you bought (footprints can be a PITA), I like the purple better anyway. And of course the best laid plans of mice and men... Your 3D printed parts came out great! And of course the keyboard too! The final version anyways. :) And I would add two dummy keyswitch footprints for the spacebar on your next revision. Some friends and I just did a cochlear implant cover re-design for a two year old girl who is a bit too active for her implants. :) And my parts don't fit either, so I have to increase the diameter of my part a bit. And I had to change my design as well since it looked like crap once the support material was removed. So I had the exact same problem as you. My solution was to make the top of the part flat and print it upside down. Saved the parents of the kid $80 USD per cover. They're happy with it. I also have some MK-52/61 keys that I had printed in English. Want a set? Or better yet(?) I can send you my hacked version of Menadue's "A Better Way to Make Calculator Keys and a Conversion to English for an MK-61" OpenSCAD key creator that I hacked and you can do yours in German.
You can technically do that, but most games use full file names when loading files from disk. That includes the disk name. So if you copy two disks (say simant_d1 and simant_d2) to one disk (called simant) then it fails to load a file like simant_d2:info.txt. You can do that to save disks on loose files.
If you're using Cura, try adjusting the horizontal expansion verses changing the size. And try Gateron, Buttery Yellow kkey switches. Yhey don't have the collar and are more tolerant of the adapter. I have been doing this on Mitsumi keyboards in Ti 99 computers.I also salvage the stabilizers from the Mitsumi and us an adapter from an Atariage forum.
Maybe if you printed them in two pieces, one for the bottom and one for the top and then glue them together, they would be easier to print to the required dimensions?
