@@SoSo-c5b I work for a major natural gas pipeline. We send out line locators with special tools to detect our pipelines. We have to respond to any request for location (811 call) within 24 hours and mark not only our pipelines, but also the safe digging boundary
"no markings going back" isn't an excuse... you know that there's a gas line since there's gas service at the house... there's a gas meter right there, within a few feet of where you were digging.... you have to know there's a gas line there somewhere... if there are no markings from dig safe, then you have to know that they didn't mark that property.... ergo, DON'T dig
It’s 811 here and I asked if I did anything wrong when they were done fixing the line and they said no. This is purly on locate. We called for a locate and they made a mistake. The job still gets done. If I did anything wrong we could’ve been hit with anywhere from 5-10k fine but we did NOTHING wrong here. Stuff happens.
A light digger lol. Compared to a lot of guys I’m very careful with my digging to try to prevent this. It’s been years since I’ve broken a line that was proper depth and installed to code. Ps I didn’t break this line, it was one of the hands on the job
I hit a gas line in Seattle 17 years ago. Wasn’t properly marked, only a dot of paint (on yellow leafs) that blew in the wind. Thankful I took pics on my flip phone and we didn’t have to pay the fine. I couldn’t get that smell out of my nose for a whole week lol
I’ve seen worse leaks than this but for some reason this one really spread the gas out. You could smell it everywhere. Actual started to get a little dizzy.
Yep you call and then you hand dog down to the line to show you are being careful. If you hit it then it’s not as big a deal legally. He’s lucky it’s that type of line, some places used some shit that turns as brown as tree roots.
He did call. He said it, and you can clearly see where they marked some stuff. Even when they mark, you can't trust it 100% and you don't know how deep it is.
@@Justaguynamedsue yes. It was strange that all the marks were out side of the area he was digging. He should of known something was not right. Not one mark by his work area=something isn't right 🙃
The dust or the cuts? We throw them away but hoping to make a connection where we could recycle and make our own material. I’ve works with companies that do the same.
@@FenceForFlorida yeah, all the dust and little plastic debris from the cuts. I’m doing some research on a vinyl DIY fence for my property and was just curious about that.
You may not have x ray vision but you can call in a god dam locate or use a shovel instead of equipment until you find the pipe. I hate contractors that can't take ownership of their mess up. I am an irrigation contractor and my experience has been people like you just don't care.
I was using a shovel… The locate only located at the street… the pvc was thin wall, So it immediately cracked… The actual professional plumber that came out literally said that this was not my fault at all. It was done completely wrong and in a completely wrong spot... This pvc could be 40 years old for all I know. I love people who say they know what they are talking about, don’t and leave a comment for my benefit. Don’t care? This completely haulted my day. I fix any break that I can. This fix required a solder and I do fence so I didn’t have that. It states in our contract that we are not responsible for unmarked private utilities yet I still try.
100 they were justifiably a mad Customer because you did not know it was there. You should have known it was there for sure. And if you can't wrap your head around that you're never going to grow
A locator did come and they only located city utilities. In our contract, it states that they are responsible for locating any private utilities before we come out to install the fence. Water is only located at the street. Past the meter is considered private. Even the plumber that came to fix it backed me up. It was not in a normal location even for being built in the 80’s. I’ve been doing this for 8 years. I think I know what is normal and what is not.
Some people say not to chip away the overpour but I do it if it’s less the foot thick. If it’s thicker or there is something in the way like a utility line, I will just attach the post to the house. For extra security, You could also silicone the screws that are going into your house to help prevent water from getting in. As for concreting next to your foundation, normally old and new concrete will sort of stay separate from each other. It will attach to the old concrete (your foundation), but it is easier to chip off. I see no harm to your house when putting concrete up against the foundation.
We had a very similar situation a few weeks ago. Guy was super nice to the crew and then one of his precious plants got stepped on and he went full on Karen mode. After the job was completed he said our guys broke a sprinkler line which was no where near the fence and said the guys broke a metal decorative cover. He also wanted a discount for our guys “destroying 12 ferns”. He was just looking for a discount. There’s awesome customers out there and there’s awful ones
@@FenceForFlorida same here bro. Sometimes I call em out while on site. Been at it for 21 years and just have very little patience for stuff like that anymore
If it is not given enough time to set up. Here in Florida the ground is extremely wet and in most cases I would be over watering it in the end. OBVIOUSLY If the ground we’re working with is extremely dry we wet set. Dry pour allows me to pack it firm and immediately work on the FENCE. I’m not laying a foundation here. There is plenty of research on dry vs wet, It really comes down to preference. This is how all fence companies do it in Florida. I have a short video going back to check this fence out after the hurricane that just came through. Go check it out ru-vid.com7r4QLHa7A2g?si=msE1y4ZIDekUAwRa
@@FenceForFlorida i tested one against another myself on some paver border that i left exposed and where i could compare later. dry pour crumbles, even from stepping on it probably due to the fact that some parts are already cured while the rest is still dry which is the real life situation. Probably a lot of water has to be used at once for it to work.
Well, I’m not a paver professional, but I’m assuming that that paver border wasn’t underground constantly exposed to wet soil. You’d probably want a nice muddy mix. I’ve been doing fence for eight years now, I promise you more concrete or a little extra strength on your post is not gonna save your fence. it’s all about depth and the ground surrounding all of your posts and concrete
You almost had me convinced. i was removing the other day old posts to replace with vynil and saw same thing. And im not a cement professional it is only a logical speculation. I saw two types of cement base on those posts, hard as rock and crumbly as sandstone. My guess is crumbly one was dry poured. And it happened that gate post had that crumbly base and that post had most movement.
@@FenceForFlorida It's a repetitive overuse and even an obsessive compulsive need to use that line from "There's Something About Mary." Thanks for allowing me to indulge. 😀
@@FenceForFlorida I'm sure you are correct then ... It's just not that common to see the water table work that way. Usually it comes up from below and doesn't pour out from the side.... Unless there's a hillside that you're right up against... Hope it didn't create any issues for you and you were able to install your fencing without any problem. Cheers...
@@TDSDoctor After the heavy rains of any storm in Florida the ground stay saturated for days. In some parts of Florida you can dig your own well and hit water at 40-50 feet.
Question. What lengths are available for vinyl gates? We need a motorized sliding gate. What kind of durability does the vinyl gate have? What happens if it gets hit with a car? Thank you
