I have a really good condition r51 in a bin that I got from an old job. I was able to get XP SP3 installed after a reformat, and it runs great off the HDD. I may just do this now as a small project! How have things been going since? Able to get linux on there?
I just recently installed SP3 on this machine to get the Zune software installed (to get my old Zune up and running). Though I think this would run Linux nicely, I'm going to end up keeping Windows on it (as it's literally the only machine I have that I can use with my Zunes).
Warning to anyone trying this. Do not use any xylene-containing products on the headlight assembly after using this vapour kit. The glass layer that is formed by the vapour is a very high stress, high shear shell. It will not stand up to the stresses created by products like certain panel prep solutions (with xylene inside), or practically all clear coat sprays. Furthermore, the surface will rapidly degrade if left unprotected. I saw a noticeable difference in my test lights after only a few weeks in the British springtime sunlight. While the results from the vapour process are immediate and stunning, they are very short-lived. I have a test underway using a clear PPF wrap which is so far holding up very well in the sun, but only time will tell if it really holds.
i do this for a side job and i use the vapor kit with acetone it has no uv in it nothing is permanent add a ceramic coating on top it will last a while 👍
I've tested with acetone and found it to work well but you need to keep the headlight warm throughout the process in order to minimise condensate formation on the surface of the headlight. The mystery blue liquid in the kits did not suffer from condensation at all in my tests, but with acetone in ambient temps of less than 15c, condensation was awful and any amount of it quickly warps the polycarbonate.
I'm surprised they started at 180 but the end results look pretty nice. I found myself wondering the blue liquid is acetone based or some other chemical that can dissolve plastic.
I agree, the 180 seemed pretty dang aggressive. Next time I do it I'll likely skip the 180. I think you're right about the acetone. I don't think it was heat alone that got these results (as it never got very hot).
It has almost no smell. If you accidentally spill it on the headlight, it will immediately dissolve into the light causing severe warping. And its vapour reflows PC just like acetone does, but it is definitely not acetone. I suspect it is another methyl ketone but pretty confident it's not acetone.
You bet! It was: Pressure treated 4"x4"x8' - QTY 6 Pressure treated 2"x4"x16' - QTY 6 Pressure treated 2"x4"x8' - QTY 6 Pressure treated 2"x6"x16' - QTY 6 2"x4"x8'6 - QTY 6 4x8 OSB - QTY 6 6'x8' Pressure treated dog eared fence panel - QTY 6 Extra fence pickets - QTY 6 10' aluminum drip edge - QTY 6 + whatever nails / screws to assemble it I had the tar paper and shingles left over, but if you need to buy it you'd need a roll of paper, and 5 bundles of shingles (for this size shed).
Hello! Nice video ! I got myself the same R51 that looks so cool imo. Could you specify the reference of the new component u used ? Also I wanted to know if it was possible to upgrade this old 32bit pc to 64bit...
I love the old upgradable laptops. Wouldn't see a socketed CPU on modern laptops anymore, unfortunately. I have a Sony Vaio, which is quite a bit newer than this Thinkpad, but you can easily change the RAM, the HDD - and of course I replaced it with a SSD - and the CPU. Now I have i7 640m, 8GB of 1333MHz DDR3, and a 80GB SSD in there. In the future, I will change the SSD to a bigger one too, but that is for later. I also have dedicated graphics, GT 330M, which isn't great and the support for it is extremely lacking nowadays, but it's better than integrated graphics, at least. I currently have Debian installed on it, and I would probably switch to Devuan. I considered antiX because it's a very light Debian-based Linux distribution, but it has issues installing and running Wine, which I do want to have to run some older games.
Doing this for years for DELL laptops. Idk, but people and companies buy below awerage CPU laptops and never do upgrade. I have DELLs from 2008 with 1.8 - 2.0 GHz CPUs. Why not to upgrade them to 2.5 ? I have Inspiron 1501 AMD based that was stated in all official sources incl. comments on Dell support that chipset can handle 2GB of RAM only. But people has found modules that work as 2+2. So after one bad try I have found and bought correct ones and forced laptop to accept them 😂. First, I installed 2+1 and it has started normally. But after I installed 2+2 and it has refused to start. So I returned to 2+1 and used it for one day. Next day I tried again and entered BIOS. Checked that all amount is visible there. Tried to load Windows few times, and It has started finally! With upgraded to 2.2 GHz CPU and hybrid HDD it works flawlessly. Except operating system troubles... No correct GPU drivers for Windows 7, so I risked to install experimental Windows Vienna mod th😅s year. It works, except the internet. Core does not support Chrome, but dedicated browser MyPal and Firefox works a little. But main trouble are these security certificates of websites... no updates so many websites just do not work. Other thing with network is Wi-Fi works with real speed of 2,5 Mbit/s. It is Dell wireless card with a,b,g but it refuses to work at normal speed. Need to be replaced, I suppose.
I never had an R series Thinkpad myself (always T or X), but back in college, I worked in the tech shop that supported student laptop purchases, and this was one of the standard machines people would get. They were the work horses of the mid 2000s college student.
I do miss the CPU socket in laptops, got a Dell E5510 with a Socket in upgraded from a Celeron to a 1st gen I5, Was watching a LGR video and yours was recommended to me +1 sub from me
Yeah, Dell did a pretty good job of keeping their Latitude / business line somewhat modular / upgradeable for a while, not sure if they are still that way or not. Gotta love LGR! Thanks for watching / subscribing!
I appreciate the forward thinking that was a part of some of these older designs. You had the ability to upgrade (to an extent), and not just throw it away and buy new all the time.
*sigh* Times are definitely different... While some of this new tech is cool and fast I still miss the days where companies didn't try their best to stop you from ever fixing their devices so you have to buy a new one. Sure it's not all companies but still, it's a disgusting business model. I also miss the character of the 80's, 90's, and early 00's tech. While they look archaic now the joy and amazement when they were new was still off the charts. I remember seeing CD roms and stuff come out in laptops and thinking wow, that's sooo cool! @@new_oldstock
Looking at your 2-port 5200: The pin that's lifted on the big bottom right chip, the GTIA, is pin 11, which is T3 (Trigger 3). Doing a little research on it: On early 4-port systems, T3 normally goes to pin 13 of the 4th controller port which is for the top left/right red fire button and pin 4 (LP/ Light Pen) of the ANTIC (big chip on the top right) is only pulled high with a 4.7Kohm resistor to 5V (that'll be relevant in a bit). On later 4-port systems, T3 is also connected to pin 4 (LP/ Light Pen) of the ANTIC (big chip on the top right) and on 2-port systems it's only connected to LP. So theoretically, pin 11 of the GTIA a.k.a. T3 not being connected to the board may not do anything on a 2-port system, except leaving the LP pin floating and no light pen support if there ever was one for the 5200 (there was one for the Atari 8-bit computers IIRC). The bodge wire on the bottom connects pin 1 (GND) and pin 12 (P2/Paddle 2) of the POKEY (big bottom left chip). P2 leads to pin 10 of the 2nd controller port and controls one of the axis of the analog stick, so (assuming this is just a wire and not an insulated resistor) why is this tied to ground...? As for the bodge wires on the left: I'm not sure what those are. Maybe those are trace fixes? Btw. did you catch the scratch on the board between the chip A2 (big top right, ANTIC)? Also, did you insert that Congo Bongo cartridge the right way? The label on the cartridge was upside down when you inserted it and turned it on. Either way, thanks for uploading this video and I hope you read both of my comments and find them at least somewhat helpful.
I recently got an original 4 port 5200 sold as untested without the switchbox that does the same thing after I did the switchbox elimination mod: Blackish screen and audio noise coming from the POKEY when I try to play Pole Position. I reseated all the big chips (but not the RAM yet) and both 7805s checked good with a game inserted and it still doesn't boot. Mine has the Rockwell 6502 R-C Network fix likely from the factory, a cap installed on the POKEY chip (the big chip on the bottom left) between pin 1 and 17 (GND and VCC respectively) and on the solder side of the main board, there's a bodge wire between pin 1 (GND) of the POKEY is connected to the GND side of C104.
I did reseat all the chips (not sure if I showed it here or not). I found a copy of the 5200 Field Service Manual and I ordered some new RAM chips. I'll revisit it soon and hopefully get it figured out.
@@new_oldstockGood idea to replace the RAM, because on mine, the culprit that kept the system from booting was the seventh DRAM chip from the top, U24, (XA24 on later boards). The chip itself looks like it got really hot at some point as the die marks are visible on the chip, while the label is barely readable. I found it to be not working by testing each RAM chip, one at a time, on my SG-1000 II (the one with the discrete TMS chip), since it also uses 4516 RAM for it's VRAM. Testing the 5200 temporarily with a RAM chip from my SG-1K II, it did boot and work, but the graphics were blocky, 2 color only, dark/missing detail and the color hue was wrong. The blocky 2 color only graphics were caused by pin 40 of the GTIA (Address line 2) not being connected to the board, because the pin was a bit corroded, which I could fix and the color hue was also fixed by adjusting R8, but the dark/ missing detail graphics couldn't be fixed. It turns out my GTIA is a bit faulty as Luma Output 0, which is pin 31, only outputs a floating signal (~1V) instead of a proper signal (0V - 5V), even when it's not connected to the board, so I need to either replace it or get the Sophia, whenever that is available. TL;DR: One RAM chip was bad and aside from the GTIA being a bit faulty, the system is working fine now.
Update: I recently got the Sophia 2 for my 5200 and on the RF output it still looked wrong like with its original GTIA. After lots of probing and testing it turns out that the GTIA was fine and that Luma Output 0 wasn't the problem, however I did discover that Luma Output 3 wasn't on the final output circuit, even though said output is fine from the chip itself. So what was going on? It was the CD4050 hex inverter U1 (XA1 on later hoards) whose 4th inverter didn't work right that caused Luma Output 3 not to show up. After desoldering that and stealing a CD4050 from one of my Atari 2600s to put it on my 5200, the video output looks exactly like it should, even with the original GTIA. TL;DR: The GTIA wasn't faulty, the Hex Inverter was partially broken causing the video output to look wrong.
Is that just a bezel with a gap in the middle or a whole lens with plastic under it? I've got a DSi XL with deep scratches on the bottom screen I picked up and I got a touchscreen for it but I'm not sure if I need an additional part like a lens to get rid of all the scratched bits.
@@new_oldstock Thanks! I ended up working on other things in the meantime and so I still haven't done that particular repair, so good to know I should have all the parts I need.
That needle tip was so good, I wanted to replace my 3ds xls plates but didn't want to bring a knife to it's rubber pads to remove the top screen screws. Are the ribbon cables (in the dsi) delicate? I feel like I could do this but I'm worried I'll snap the ribbons
Thanks! Yes, they are relatively delicate, but if you take your time you should be ok. I will sometimes use some dull tweezers to help with getting them maneuvered.
@@new_oldstock are they similar to pc wires? I've built my own pc a few times but never took apart a console. Do you have any tips for keeping dust away during application? I've seen some ppl on forums say not to bother cause dust will always get trapped
Wet sanding 1000 through 3000 then plastix 2.0 will provide a like new finish.....takes about 45 mins......I use pledge on a flannel cloth to hand buff after polishing.
I just did a video for replacing the top and bottom screens on a DS Lite. I don't show putting a new touch screen in, but I do show moving the existing touch screen over and re-installing. Hop that helps! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Uoy-YoqQz8I.html
I really need to learn how to work on my guitars. I'm not at all a handy man, I can't even swap out pickguards or anything. Ultimately I want to be good enough to piece together a whole guitar with separate parts, like a Frankenstein bass. I like more unique pickup configurations as well, like double p (blacktop jazz style) or humbucker bridge - split p style neck, etc. P-bass style body, thin jazz neck.. that would be such a fun project. Kinda rambling there. Anyways, nice video and pickguard! I'm actually waiting for a fender blacktop p to arrive. Just ordered one from Reverb.. black body/black pickguard.
looks really nice, and it's a great tutorial. I've been thinking of buying an olympic white squier and putting a tort shell pickguard on it. Always loved that look.
Oh I had a go at this had to redo it as I lost volume as the input jack for lead didn't seem to be connecting properly. Redid it and I managed to get it back to normal. Maybe the contact plate wasn't tight enough against the control knobs/input jack...
