@@scottChapman25 we run 38s on our jk with a Dana 30, and 36 on our TJ with a Dana 30 as well. We wheel the snot out of them as well. I just don’t think there are enough people that actually use them to really speak on what they can actually do.
With REAL offroading too. Yeah Forum members really were wrong about it, Cant wait to see you with the 40s Good luck and strength with your jeep You are the best with the jeep videos!
What’s up brother quick question I’ve replaced my ball joints about 2 times on my 2014 jk already but they’re non knurled I’m really thinking about going with the rough country ones but they only have knurled ones what’s your opinion about switching to knurled ball joints? Or should I just stay with the teraflex non knurled ones ? It’s already my 2nd set of these and it seems like they don’t last as long
@@josuemartinezmtz if it was my jeep I would go with American iron ball joint deletes. I put them in my TJ, and when I need new ones for the JK I’m going to put them in that as well. The RC have been absolutely amazing and I just installed my second set 2 months ago. But I just love the way the deletes work and handle. It eliminated 100% of my issues on my TJ with front it “wobble” and they have been holding up to a lot of abuse as well.
@@JeepTrailsandBarbells thank you for the reply I heard about those but dropping 500$ plus labor is out of my budget at the moment I’ll most likely go with rough country your video really helped me out with the decision Would you think the knurled ball joints eventually ruin the knuckle hole ? After alot of use ? Or should I rather stick with a non knurled BJ
@@josuemartinezmtz I honestly don’t think you have anything to worry about, the knurling didn’t effect mine at all when I changed them out. And I completely understand the issue about cost. The RC is definitely the way to go. And as far as labor goes, I forget a lot of people don’t do their own work. I highly recommend you give it a try to do it yourself, you might find out it’s a lot easier than you think to do yourself.
Nice frontier ! I have a 2006 frontier that I want to lift 2.5 “ but I don’t know anything about this, what’s the difference between leveling kit and lift kit? Pros and cons? I don’t want to spend a fortune on it, because I’d like to replace the lights and also install a hybrid front bumper.
Leveling kit will just bring the front up even with the back of the bed so you lose the rake on the truck which is known as the worklife. a lift kit picks up the rear and the front keeping the original rake that the truck was designed with
@@JeepTrailsandBarbells thanks for the clarification, by chance do you have a link for your same lift kit? I like the way it looks without rake. So the difference between leveling and lift kit is just the way it looks ? Thanks
Thank you for the bearing tip. I will be doing this job for the first time in the next few months once all the parts and tools come in for my ford 8.8 on my f150.
I’m looking to buy my first JK and I was worried about running just 35” tires with the Dana 30 and I was getting prices for a 44 swap. You just saved me a lot of money and headache. Thanks for the video.
You are welcome, i have more videos out talking about the updates i did and how it is holding up. With much more off roading videos showing it handling the trails.
How is the ride on the highway--at 60-75MPH? Does your Jeep feel sketchy at that speed? What I mean by that is does the jeep feel "planted" at the speed without excessive wandering (wind/bumps) and "over-sensitive" steering where the jeep feels sort of "swayey" at speed. My 03 TJ feels that way with 4-inch RC X-lift, HD track bars, steering stabilizer, 35-inch tires etc...,. About the only thing not upgraded is my steering (still stock) which I believe is the weak point now and is contributing to my "very sketchy" highway manners. I would never let my young teenage daughters drive this Jeep because it is a handful to keep pointed straight down the highway. Does your Jeep TJ feel like that? Let me know--thank you
No, mine does not do that at all. 70, it runs smoothly, even at 80 i have no issues. What i would do is make sure that your drag link and track back run at the same angle. If they dont have the same degree, then you will get bump steer. So if you have a drop pitman arm but your track bar wasn't relocated or visas versa, you will have issues with that. Also make sure your track bar is adjusted correctly, if you disconnect one side then jump up and down on the bumper drive it back and forth in tbe drive way a few times then see if the track bar goes back on with no issues, if it doesn't, then adjusted it to were the hole lines up and reinstall the bolt. You shouldn't have to fight the track bar into place. If that isn't the issue then i would definitely upgrade the steering and chang out the American Iron ball joint deletes. They take about 500 miles to brake in and you will have a very "wondering jeep" for the first couple 100 miles, but after that you will have 0 issues. The ball joint deletes, and steering made a MASSIVE difference with my on road and off road handling. But first check that drag link and track bar first, then the track bars position, then go for steering and ball joint deletes. If it was mine that would be the order i would go in
Great vids- notice any difference between TJ w36s and JKU w38s, should be close? Thinking of 37 sx2s or 38 TSLs on my JK 2 door. I go once every couple of months if lucky… appreciate it.
They are about even on capability, the 2 door on 36 and the 4 door on 38s. But they definitely shine in their own moments. You should go 38s, you will regret going smaller lol.
A huge factor here is that HHMWVs have used this hole a lot. The track space difference caught the Jeep. I have an old SJ wide track Chief that would do doughnuts in that pit.
Lots of good information and tips in your video thank you. I image manufacturers use a crush sleeves instead of a solid shimmed sleeve as they will have already determined pinion depth exactly with the accurate factory gauges and shimmed the pinion accordingly. So it will go in to the housing once only. The crush sleeve is then quick and cheap for the factory to torque/preload up to specification probably with automated tools. For the garage mechanic the solid shimmed sleeve is the way forward changing an oil seal in the future becomes easy.
Thank you, and It does make it a lot easier down to road for doing seal changes. And you are probably right about why they use a crush sleeve over a solid one.
Oh yeah lol, yeah the camera does some weird trick like that. It threw me off when i was first doing the edits. I was like... waite .. why is the... then it hit me, the mirror effects from the camera lol
No, you won't need it for a 3.5. What happens is the CV boot on the drive shaft binds when the axle travels, which puts the boot in a bad position, causing extra stress on the rubber. So over time, it will start to crack and then your bearing will start to dry out and need to be replaced. We do all kinds off rock crawling and max out our travel and have only had to replace the boot once so far. Its only 30 bucks on ebay to buy a direct replacement. I have a video of my replacing one its a really easy job. But you wont have to worry about that for years to be honest. Now if you go up to a 4" or bigger then the u-joint style drive shaft would allow much better articulation without any binding, but thats only if you are doing some crazy off roading. I hope this helps out.
You are correct, but the better deal was on the 5.13s. The 488s would have cost me about 600 more at the time. Plus when it comes to really steep rock faces the 5.13s are amazing. But like you said the sweet spot for on and off road would be 4.88s
@thomasdearing7718 thank you! Yeah, that 4 to 1 transfer case would be really nice. The trim that comes with them is nice. What i really like about the new Rubicons is that they come with a 32 spline axle instead of a 30 spline
Man.. I love people like you who break the myth… I have been contemplating to rehear my Dana 30 and put 37 and feared it may break. I don’t off-road, I am more just for sure. I should be ok for a long time just being a mall crawler
Oh, for sure, the dana 30 will be just fine on 37s. And if you dont do any wheeling, you dont have nothing to worry about at all. I have videos of us wheeling all over Texas, Arkansas, and Missouri. Drove it there wheeled it, drove it home. The dana 30 has never given us any issues at all.
Thank you for checking in! And i am doing well. I got sick really bad last week again and was dealing with that. But im feeling much better now. It was also my 16th anniversary on Wednesday, so my wife and i have been spending a lot of time together.
What rims are you running to prevent rubbing with that size tire? Offset/backspaceing I’m about to need new tires and going to upgrade stock setup to 35s and rims.
So we run a 15x10 with 3.75 backspacing with a 3.5" lift and high clearance fenders. Depending on your lift is what kind of rubbing you will get. With the 38s and a 3.5 lift if we full lock the wheel we will rub on the frame some. But that is a lift issue, not a rim issue.
@dyakr4368 Yes, we still run stock drive shafts, i have replaced the boots on them, though. you are good up to 3.5" lift. After that, the boot for the bearing on the cv shaft starts to pinch and will tear over time and cause binding. You can get an aftermarket bearing kit for like 100 bucks to upgrade your current drive shafts to pervent that. But honestly, if you go over 3.5, you will be better off upgrading to the after-market ones that have u joints instead.
I’ve had the same HD steering kit and I had to replace my drivers side tie rod after 3 years. The grease boot disintegrated and tore in half. Not that impressive however, the the kit is decent. The metal is high quality and that counts.
3 years isn't bad for the price, i have smacked mine on rocks many times and it has held up. With it siffing up the steering and being able to take a beating on the rocks, to me its 100% worth the money. And its is affordable compared to other companies at that.
