I am an outboard mechanic and collector. Ive worked on for years and now bring back to life small older outboards and share repair videos mostly for fun & to possibly help others. I also have many parts & old outboards in my collection. With the help of 14 years of scrapyard visits I gathered an enormous collection of old outboards and parts. I have rebuilt outboards and done repairs from 2HP -225 HP Yamahas ,Evinrudes and Mercurys on my past resume. Now I just tinker with the older OMC smaller classic engines mostly which I really like for their simplicity. Bringing back to life totally wasted junk motors is my passion. I sell parts locally and thru E-Bay. & also sometimes Ill even throw in something random & totally different from old outboard content,Enjoy!
Yes I do this many times with usually great results.This motor was repainted mainly because of the L/U Is my guess it could use a repaint. When I was very young 13yrs old I learned about rebuilding salted frozen outboards. I also learned what you can get away with just from the fact that we had no money to replace parts me and two of my childhood friends... Great days mostly 50S OMC motors then when they were in their heyday...Thanks for commenting ..later
F.Y.I. I use a 3 inch cutting wheel and cut off the transom clamp studs slightly higher then both castings before drilling & tapping. I remove & save the handles for future use.
I'm glad to see you struggle to get those damn gearcase seals out also. Pullers, slide hammers, threaded screws....All that usually happens is that metal seal casing just pulls up releasing whatever it is you have jammed under there to pull it out. Eight out of ten times, I usually end up gently coercing the metal seal casing inwards to loosen it up like you did. My machinist buddy, (who is sorely missed after passing last fall), even made me a neat collet set up(s) to fit the various seals, but even that usually just pulls the upper metal casing up releasing the collet. One must be extremely careful using pry bars and the like, only because the delicate aluminum castings are usually damaged during that operation. That engine sounded so nice when you had it running, hard to believe that gearcase was full of salt/cement. That steering swivel and shift rod are fun jobs as well. Countless hours of heating, applying gentle but constant force, patiently twisting just a touch more each time, all because folks don't know how to grease an engine. And once the salt is in those cavities, it is too late to try to grease them.... You are so right about the laquer thinner, look at how nice that original finish is... Is there a reason you went after those surfaces so quickly with the wax? Were you worried that the laquer thinner might attack the original paint if not protected soon after removing that messy paint job? I keep forgetting about the Yamaha paint, perfect match indeed! Tell me again the tempo or Yamaha name part number, sure need to get some of that on hand. Love that mount repair, will have to review that video the next time I work on one of these engines. In the end, I would match the idle quality of these older 22CI OMCs to any four stroke made today. When I say older, I mean the models built before the overboard drains were plugged up and that crazy uneven recirc system was added.
Ah, the smell of hot aluminum, paint and salt. It is easy to understand why fresh water/lake shops won't even touch a salt water engine. Fortunately for me, the salty dogs were the only ones I ever worked on...I was enrolled in the "heat and beat" school for many years, still have to go back for refresher and update courses. This channel is a valuable resource for this training indeed...
That backward seal was crazy a first.Usually I do them quickly knocking them out when the flange is in correct orientation from the opposite opening with angled tools in a vise. Driveshaft seals I just crush them inwards and pry them out like many mechanics do.That was the original CR seal in brass making them a little soft and a little harder to remove then the stainless ones at least on my end.The Meguiars polish I did just for editing after the Laquer thinner deal. Usually I polish after all is said and done at the end.Did you know about that two year cam plate & linkage economizer deal on 1967-68 models?,I didnt. Ive seen many gearcases here like that common in my area this one still was damp usually there totally dry powder & cement ,Ha!. Yamaha paint is Moeller P/N # 25469 Yamaha Blue Metallic 1985-89.I go thru 5 or 6 bottles of Mapp Gas a year its my trusty friend couldnt do it without heat it saves my day most times..Thanks for commenting ...Oh & as far as the rubber mounts you know Im sure in 1971 I think it first was introduced they went to a bolted studded pan mount anyway and used them for years after that.Those vulcanized mounts are terrible but then again these motors are very old and some of mine still have them holding together after all these years. go figure ...later..
@@fleetwin1 Rule of thumb here is they wont touch motors over 10 years old you probably know that.. Thanks for the channel appreciation training statement..
@@OutBoardTink62 Yeah, I had seen those crazy cams before, just couldn't remember which years they were on. I love the angled tool idea, when coming up from the bottom of the seal after cutting the rubber out. It's just hard to come up with something like that for the driveshaft seal under the water pump only cuz the diameter of the driveshaft is small. But, I am always trying to think of a way to do it. A good solid hit with a wide angled tool sure seems to be the best bet.
Those pan mounts were terrible. They were not tough enough. Just tilting up the motor by the cowl or pan would break the rear two, sometimes on a fairly new motor.
Need parts 1950S-80S 2HP-40HP OMC mostly. I have a huge inventory of parts lots of bring back engines,metal & fiberglass covers,carbs,powerheads, lowerunits,castings etc.
That motor belonged to my great-great-great-great-great-great uncle Flavius maximus of Rome!!! He couldn't get it started,, so he gave it to Caesar Augustus to use to cross the Rubicon river north of Rome!!! It quit running while he was crossing the Rhine and the Gauls ( they had some Gaul!!!!) almost captured him!!!! Caesar then scrapped that motor at Plutonius Farkanius's ~Roman Scrap yard~!!!! LOLOLOL!!!! Great video Glenn!!!!!!
I got this motor from a shmo named Moe. He had a brother Curly he couldnt get it started for surely. Their friend Larry said give it to that RU-vidr TOT62 the mechanic hell get it to run please dont panic......... HAA!!!!!!
Lord Manufacturing makes & made many products for the Industrial world including these pesky little anti-vibration vulcanized mounts used for many years on OMC outboards years back. They are still in buisness today being bought out in 2019 by another company Parker-Hannifin according to Wikipedia
Yeah, most of those mounts are real crap, the threaded bolts are just bonded onto the rubber, usually come off in pieces during disassembly. I bought a bunch of these cheesy mounts years ago, but will surely do your repair the next time...
Yes I agree got tired of frowning everytime I worked on one of these motors with the vulcanized Lord mounts.Now I dont worry this technique is only days old by the way.Thanks for commenting and pleased you like the modification. Stay Tuned this motor is almost done Phew lots of work,HA!...
Pretty smart approach great repair tutorial video .Yeah they are way too expensive to replace on an old motor thats only worth a few hundred bucks in most cases.. Thanks for posting this rare item fix.......Frank
Just a correction this style of motor and cover was used from 1962-1970 not 1963-70 like I posted in video.Hard remembering all the correct dates when you done so many repairs thru the years like me,HA! Also the carb linkage and scalloped plate were factory in 1967-68 only go figure.Ill clarify in next PT 2 video what I learned..
Hey Kodi thanks for the sub you know what I was wrong on that evaluation they actually did use that cam follower plate and rod from the factory in 1967-68. It was used to help maximize fuel economy by almost full advance timing before full throttle. Thanks to an educated comment left by a viewer... You learn something new everyday ,LOLL...
That strange throttle cam on the mag was only used for 67 and 68. It really does not open the throttle much until the mag is almost fully advanced. They seem to run good if all the parts match. Probably to improve fuel economy at part throttle.
Your 100% correct ah2194 I researched that linkage and found other 1967- 68 models with that same linkage.Now what do I do Im not sure to put my motor back ,LOLL to the way it was originally.I will plug your comment in my next video thanks again for the clarification on the linkage.. .....regards TOT62
Probably best to swap the cam and link back. I would guess the calibration on the carb will work best with it. The carb throttle opens very little until that abrupt slope at the end of the cam is reached. It is mostly all timing advance until.that point.
@@alberthafner2194 I do have a near mint 1968 18HP model in my basement and I was going to look at the throttle linkage & the camplate to confirm my evaluation but I didnt when I did the change.It was hidden in the back of my basement. I looked at older ones up to 1966 I have and they were all the full cam plates and short brass rods and it really threw me off.Oh well that would of confirmed that it was a factory install like you said If I looked at my 1968,HAAA!...
The dinosaur days were the best days indeed. OMC would still be in business if this exact engine could be produced today. Those points don't look OEM, perhaps that explains the long clips. Yeah, I remember those crazy looking cams, don't know when they came in... Probably when the overboard drains got plugged and that lousy recirc system was adopted, never idled like this one does for sure after that.
I totally agree about what your saying in making these motors again. Points I do beleive are Sierra but still never seen those clips. I like them because there easy to put on and take off off .Wish they all were like that.Thanks for commenting new video coming soon on this ole girls extensive repairs...Stay Tuned!
Great to see you back Glenn. Man! That motor gave you some trouble but you pushed though and won Yes!😁 Sure is a good looking old motor and purring like a kitten now Another one back to life now the fun begins again lol. Always enjoy watching looking forward to seeing what's coming up next. Have a great rest of the week see you on the next one 👍🏻
Thanks Chris yeah I took a break this motor contributed to that mostly and just a Winter hibernation too. I was real annoyed (frustrated)on and off for awhile but persevered finally,LOL.These little kickers having no needle bearings on the piston crank journals and no roller bearings on the three mains are very quiet when dialed in correctly.You can hear that at the very end of the video with the cover back on shes sweet.Yeah not much interest in these old girls like cars but I enjoy making the videos... Take care...
So many great points of discussion here! First, we can't over emphasize the importance or proper prep/sealant/application when it comes to sealing crankcase halves! Most of the "anerobic sealers" do have a "shelf life", and I would not trust open containers for much more than a year regardless. It is so frustrating because most of the containers/tubes are much larger than we need when working on small outboards. Prep is key for sure, proper cleaning is a must, making sure the surfaces are flat is just as important. Not much of an issue on the small ones, but an often overlooked issue on the larger outboards for sure. Following directions on the sealer, making sure the surfaces are clean, all these seemingly minor things are so damn important. Nothing worse than starting a freshly built powerhead only to see bubbling/spraying from the crankcase halves. I know the damn typeM is tough to work with, but it sure dries well and rarely leaks. The anerobic stuff is great, but much less tolerant to irregular surfaces and poor prep. Sure do wonder what could have stuck the rings to quickly... Do you think the acid swelled the aluminum surfaces in the ring lands? Was there any "stuff" in there that would explain the stuck rings? I say stuff, only cuz we know it wasn't carbon or rust/corrosion from water submersion. That powerhead gasket issue is another interesting topic as well. The mating surfaces on the older spring mount engines are different, so it is easy to understand how using the wrong gasket will create a cooling leak. But, the mating surfaces are the same for the later model non thermostat vs newer thermostat engines. So, what problem could be created by using the gasket with the one hole versus the gasket with the complete cut out? Just wish I could figure that out someday. The lower seal orientation/installation is one of the biggest errors made by so many people, including inexperienced outboard techs working on older engines. The problem is that you won't realize your error, the engine will run fine. It takes some time before enough water makes its way inside eventually causing enough rod wear to ventilate the crankcase. Thermostat head gasket on a non thermostat engine? Guess that would probably work OK. Running the engine with the air discharge open will cause it to run lean on one cylinder, you will need to use the pressure tank in order to dial in the idle later. Finally, I have watched the boys use that drill motor helping to get stubborn engines running. But, you must be careful not to inadvertently over tighten/torque the flywheel nut while doing that.... Great job/wrestling match done brother. Another great fishing motor for someone to enjoy for many years to come...
Yeah this one was a Doozy.Just to clarify I only use the drill as a last chance scenario on the stubborn ones this was one of them. Knowing it could be risky on a small diameter crank especially like these possibly shearing .Luckily my drill isnt an impact just a 600RPM antique dinosaur from the old days ill use it cautiously,HA.Yes surface prep is the key with block halves. And actually there is one worse scenario from a leaky block oozing oil & gas bubbles out the first time you run it. Its when its oozing out gas and oil & bubbles after you just painted it too,HA! Your theory could be true about the swelling of the ring grooves.The acid did make them ring surfaces chalky in appearance I just left them.The Permatex sealant was maybe 3 or 4 years old I threw it out. I agree the shelf life was expired my dumb mistake.Those powerhead gaskets were changed probably in part because of cooling flow design going to a thermostat head. 6HP head gaskets have half the cooling holes of a 5.5 head gasket. You could match up overlay the gaskets punch additional holes and be on your merry way if you choose. I was going to do that but bought the right gasket for around 11 bucks. One thing I observed was the motor overheated to over 200F in minutes on the head when I checked it with my laser thermometer.After changing the powerhead gasket it read about 140F after ten minutes of running. Running the engine with no airline closed circuit was a chance thing as I had it blocked off and lost the cap so I ran it anyway. All in all Thanks for the comment as I have been dormant over the Winter mainly from bad weather and the issues with this engine so I took a break.... Stay tuned!!
I hear ya brother, I know you are careful about the drill motor for sure. And yeah, wrecking a nice paint job is a kick in the ass as well... It's confusing to me about the damn gaskets for sure. You would "think" that the base gasket with the little hole would be preferable for the non thermostat motors, kind of acting as a bit of a restriction/thermostat if you will. And one would "think" that the gasket with the big cut out would be perfect for the thermostat motors cuz the thermostat is the restriction. I won'der what would happen if the full cut out gasket was used on a thermostat powerhead... Oh well, guess I'm overthinking it, just can't help myself...Will look into it someday... And yeah, I know you realize that the air line has to be shut off to run it from some sort of gravity feed, just pointing it out for others. Yeah, the winter was long and depressing, now home recovering from knee surgery....Wish I could have done it in the winter...Oh well, shouldn't be fussy, just hope it works....
@@donk499 I do know in 1959 OMC engineers added a secondary baffle plate and modified the exhaust plate casting possibly for better water flow to help cool down the exhaust side of the block.Up until then it was direct exhaust gases against the external plate making it extremely hot quickly.So maybe that might of had a play on the gasket mod in time. Always interesting to try and figure out what they did years ago to inprove their line of outboards dont you think.... Take care of those knees so far mine are holding out.......
For outboard guys that enjoy this.Heres a list of what I came across on this little kicker..Aluminum readplate corroded(replaced),crankcase sealing problems (old sealer), partially stuck rings after second teardown(cleaned grooves & new rings installed),carb flooding issues(installed new needle & seat) Motor was missing carb and knobs,recoil,airbox,tiller ,carb faceplate.All replaced with used parts.Replaced headgasket, both carb intake gaskets ,carb mount gasket and powerhead gasket to midsection all new ($75 local marina)Impellar(new),coils(used) and plugs.
Thanks Chris did this one in the 90S its a 1966 Supe Deluxe has a two speed rear hub. Still looks good just put a new tire on the front and replaced the springer. Old one was slightly rusted and front tire was falling apart just from sitting all these years indoors.
Hi sir enjoyed your video I have a 1972 Johnson 25 that I just purchased electric start It will Run but dies after a few minutes minutes I have to pump the primer to re start what do you think the problem might be?
Dosent look like a real 20H to me. No ser. no# plate? No Carter Carb? No throttle Bowden cable bracket? No factory fuel filter? Is the Tilotson carb a KA-7A ?
Hi there thanks for your videos I have the same motor mint haven’t done anything to it yet only had it a week lots of bad weather here in Tennessee. Should I remove the thermostat also and leave it out
Never got much experience with the newer style 9.9-15hps. Wonder why someone would remove the choke shaft?? I have seen that mess with the water tube corroded into the extension though, why the heck would they make it fit so tightly? Didn't understand what you were describing about the crank? Are you referring to the lower crank/driveshaft splines? These things seem to be pretty robust except that now you are more likely to see erosion or the aluminum around the sleeves due to the larger bore. Will look and compare some part numbers on the two different style gearcases. Those old 30hps are great engines, but have complex cooling systems.
Cant figure that out either and my good friend whos an outboard guy too said the same thing about the missing choke parts. Also their is no callout in the parts diagrams for those parts only the roll pin on Marineengine. The mixture needle and spring was also missing, cam follower tab broke and no link arm and no air silencer.Someone apparently stripped it for parts & maybe they had a primer system go bad on another engine and used the choke parts who knows. It did come from a Marina. I will fix it and get her done.The broach is actually the cutting tool used to spline an internal hole its a press in and pull out cutting process .The larger bore and over the flywheel pull starter were definitely improvements.Those small cup pull starters were iffy,LOLL! and not nuts about the starter that bares a cheap plastic lockout .I ran it today for a few minutes on gasoil mix wanted to make sure their was no knock or other noises she ran good after replacing the cam follower linkage and link bar and blocking the lowspeed needle hole...Stay Tuned......
Nice find... two running engines that were claimed to be seized up... you must be laughing all the way to the bank! Those two when restored will make some boater very happy.
If you enjoy fixing them you can have a ball and make some pocket change too,LOLLl!There are plenty around & been doing this a longtime. Thanks for commenting stay tuned! TOBT62
Nice score Glen. You must of got a good deal if they said they were seized up. Pretty cool you got them both to run . Little newer ones to work on well sorta new lol. Happy New Year to you 👍🏻
Yes even new to me Chris never worked on 2000 or newer models.This style came out in 1993-2006 plenty around .Now this one and others will pop up from their age & I will start to see more and more of them. Got a decent deal on these $200 for the pair. Only bought them for that price because they were free.Normally they are $50-75 parts motors when locked up as old as they are. Seller works at marina so its a good lead for more engines down the road.Thanks again for your comments on my fun channel.... later Oh & say Hello Again to Bones for me,HA!...Glenn
Yeah almost like dried blood look & in 1958 which I forgot to mention was a lighter red metallic all three colors were nice & thanks for your comment Denis
Good morning. Just came across your video and can’t wait to watch it!!! I have a 1957 Wolverine Wagemaker-and have a 68 6 horse on it but came across a 57 7 1/2 horse I wanna redo so the match! Mine is missing the front badge also-if anyone knows where I maybe able to find one please let me know! I can’t wait to watch your video! Thank you. Have a good day
Hello Ray, I have some badges in so so condition and on extra covers. I usually hold on to them pretty rare & $$$ if you can find one .As an alternative you can buy a pretty decent plyable gel decal copy from North York Marine in Canada. Take a look they supposedly are affordable and are thick to their design not flat like a regular decal. Its a great alternative and look very good.Thanks for commenting .....
