Welcome to Bounder97. My channel is primarily a DIY and educational channel, I also share fun outdoor recreational activities.
My videos cover subjects such as woodworking, welding, home maintenance and improvement, arts and crafts, making pet’s lives better, gardening, computer use and maintenance and raising chickens.
I also have a few training series I put together on how to install and program your own Vista 20p home alarm system, choosing and installing video security systems, improving automotive and home security, emergency preparedness, how 12 volt battery systems work, Avionics operation and troubleshooting, and computer programming.
I also post videos sharing information about wonderful places in the Northwest to hike, ride off road vehicles and fun attractions to visit.
Please visit my other channel at “Adventures with Bounder97” to view all of my outdoor recreation videos with no commercial interruptions.
Yep, the cost to ride kind of sneaks up on you. To bad I waited until I retired before I started to ride. It sure would have been easier to foot that bill when I was pulling in a paycheck!! I just finished an actual video that explicitly breaks down the cost of riding. I was so shocked, I though others would want to see it. I will post it tonight on my other you tube channel "Adventures with Bounder97". That's my riding channel. cheers..
@@bounder97 I see in new one you itemize the $509 for camera stuff (as opposed to just mentioning camera here). Good. Especially since some may be interested in which camera you use. I like all the $100s shown. 😄
@@vashon100 Yea, doing the research for this video, I see the camera is several hundred dollars cheaper now. Unfortunately, if you follow the news, our government is trying to outlaw DJI in our country since it is a Chinese company. It is a GREAT camera and I hope it stays available to us.
What a fantastic video. Very detailed and easy to understand. No wonder the mechanics charge so much. It is a lot of work but doable if you are handy. Thanks for all tips 😀
great video, hoping this is the problem with my new (to me) 04 camry burning some oil. I did a change and it only had 2 qts ! guessing they didn't know. Thanks!
Okay video , but what i do i clamp a c clamp around the leaf springs, then remove the bolt and last i unscrew the c clamp slow to release the tension from the leaf springs and voila job done. 👍🏻.
Thanks for sharing your procedure. I am a little bummed at your "OK VIDEO" comment. My goal was to let people know just how dangerous working on leaf springs can be. I feel this video actually did a GREAT job of showing that. If you could share your thoughts on what brought the video from great down to just OK it would be appreciated.
Why not leave the wires that came with the new connector and just use those? I came here looking to find how to do that, but this seems like a more complicated and unnecessary process.
OK, how will you attach the new wires that came with connector to the original auto wire harness? Are you going to cut the original wires, then splice in the new wires? If so, where will you be placing the splice in the very tight space you have to work with? Every time you add a break in a wire with a splice, you are adding a new potential fail point. I'm pretty sure that what ever method you have in mind will fit your description of "complicated and unnecessary". The process I showed returns those connectors to like new condition and is actually very simple to perform.
I have seen new gas push mowers as low as 120$. For that money it is not worth to fix anything that has burn rusted. Today the materials like welding equipment, grind disc, paints etc cost almost as much as new mower. Or there is so little cap in price that it is not worth it. It is much better to take the motor out of the deck and use it as a spare part or sell it as a spare motor and then go buy new mower that lasts 30 years with proper storage, maintenance and cleaning. Maintenance is also pretty costy if you do reqular oil changes. I recommend to store the mower properly cleaned in dry place without gas in the tank or in the carburator. Oil change every year is not necessary with mowers. The condensation water will vaporize once the oil is warmed up or stored in dry place. Oil will seal the oxygen and prevent rusting anyways. Lawnmowers usually has so low rpm, low load, low hours that the oil change is necessary propably in every 5 years or so. At least for home use 120$ mower. Modern oils are so good that my relative has ran his lawnmower 15 years without any oil maintenance, lol.
Thank you for taking the time to comment. I do however seriously question the accuracy of some of your statements. The welding of the mower deck did NOT cost the same as a new mower. It was not even close. I probably spent about $5 in consumables to repair the deck of my mower. Your statement implies a person would buy welding equipment and consumables to repair the mower, then throw it all away. Do you really believe anyone would do that? I’m reading your statement as it cost me $8 to tighten a loose screw after I bought the screw driver, tightened the screw then threw away the screw driver. Perhaps it would be a lot cheaper to use a screw driver you already own (repair cost would now be $0) or if you did buy a screwdriver, keep it for future repairs. Your statement also seems to lump all mowers into the same quality category. Are you saying I should throw away a John Deer mower and buy a Wal-Mart special? Do you think a $120 mower performs the same way and has the same amenities as a more expensive mower? I have never seen, nor do I know anyone that has made a gas mower lasted 30 years. If you watched my entire video, you would have seen that the reason why my deck rotted out was because of the maintenance I was doing. The rot was at the hose attach point for cleaning the mower after each use. Why do you limit maintenance on a mower to the motor? 80 percent of your comment talked about maintaining the motor. I liked your advice on that subject. The rest of the mower also needs maintenance. For example, repairing damaged mower decks. Finally, I am not a member of the throw away generation. People in my age group believe it is better to keep equipment running for as long as possible and not simply overflow our landfills because it is easier to just buy a new unit. However, thanks again for sharing with the rest of us.
This is a fantastic tutorial! I love that you covered why you did each element because it gives me things to consider with my own build using different tools & materials. Thank you!
I have two gates and I need a way of keeping them closed in the middle. They both swing inward and then I put self closing spring hinges , but I would like a method to latch them when they are both closed. They have to latch to each other and I don't want the kids to force them out past where they are supposed to stop. I could but a stop , piece of wood on the bottom somewhere. These gates are on a deck so the floor is wood. I don't really want some piece of wood on the deck sticking up to stop each gate from going to far. I might try magnets. First of all I have to put the gates and hinges together and see how they function in the real world.
To accomplish what you describe, I would use: Door Lock Bolt Gate Latches - (Heavy Duty Fence Slide Latches Outdoor Doors Latches). Search for the above name to see what it looks like. $12.98 apiece It is essentially a round metal rod that can be held in two possible locations. Either pulled back and not locking the gate, or extended and locking the gate. At least one would be mounted vertically on one gate near the deck. Drill a hole in the deck so the latch can go into the deck. That will hold the gate closed. The other can either be mounted the same way (going into the deck), or mounted higher so you can reached it from the top of the gate from either side. In this case the latch would be mounted horizontally and latch to the other gate. Good luck and have fun!!
@@bounder97 Thanks, that is a good idea. One gate immobilized with a floor rod and the second gate latched to the first gate. I was also looking at rare earth magnets that would hold the two gates together when they touch. They are aluminum gates and I can mount the magnets inside the aluminum members . I tested it and they hold pretty good but I might need to buy some higher strength magnets. It is totally invisible because they are inside the vertical aluminum post members. They could still be forced outward with enough pressure though so I will actually have to put it all together to see how good or bad it works.
What about using plumbing solder and "MAPP" gas torch? I recently purchased a "Titanium Flux 125" welder from HF. I have never WELDED before but have experience with soldering in a "plumbing" domain. Using solder will definitely leave a better looking repair than using a FLUX WIRE welder (too cheap to buy a MIG). As far as soldering experience, I have about 40yrs of electronics repair under my belt. I realize that solder is not as strong as using steel, but it is ONLY a lawn mower NOT the "Space Shuttle". lol
Hello, I do not know it that would work. If it does, it would definitely be cheaper. However saying it's only a lawn mover so it doesn't have to be strong I very much disagree with. Ever seen you lawn mower kick up a rock? That mower deck prevents the rock from striking you. If it's not strong, the next kicked up rock could be your last mow job you have to do. Anyway, good luck and I hope it works for you.
Hello, thanks for commenting. I'm sorry I don't understand your comment. If I did a poor job of explaining the subject, I apologize. If you did not understand what I was trying to say, that also is on me and I do again apologize. I hope you enjoyed the parts of the video that had no math in it though. Have a great day.
It sure was only a tour for just the two of us. The other 8 people that reserved spots for that tour did not show up on time. (the tours start on time). After we came out of the cave, there was a school bus full of kids waiting to go in next. Sure glad I did not need to film on that tour.
I really enjoyed you clear and concise presentation. Thank you so much! New at wood work (4 years) and always enjoy learning from experienced people. 😀
Hmmm, Why would we want to do that? Just curious... Wouldn't we get much bigger numbers if we went down to inches per second? Maybe include the rest of the world who does metric and do millimeters per second?
was it just 2x4 and plywood connected with screws? how long roughly were the 2x4s used in bucket part of back seats for leveling? and do you know length of 3qty 2x4 used on floor and "hump" section? i know it is quite simple, I have a brain injury and sometimes i struggle to processing information into action and it would help me to do platform know roughly lengths of ur 2x4s used! i have same vehicle minus color and leather! i adopted and trained my now 9 year old dog, Belle, for my service animal. she is my lifesafer and best friend. when i saw thia video, its what ive been looking for and trying to digure out for Belle and the lacking of stable backseat is becoming an injury hazard with age. you didnt just help people with this video, you truly changed someones life. being able to go places with her safely changes my life. THANK YOU
Dog platform measurements Hello, I would be happy to give you measurements. The platform is ¾ inch plywood. It is 47 ½ inches wide and 23 inches deep. The front legs behind the passenger and driver’s seat are 2X4 that are 15 14 inches high. The middle leg I cut to fit after the platform was installed. It a 2x4 approximately 9 ½ inches high. On the bottom of the platform I modified a 4X4 to raise the platform to a level position with the front legs. There are two boards that sit in the center bucket dip in the back seat. They are 13 inches wide, 3 ½ inches deep and 3 inches high. A wood planer makes changing the thickness of wood very easy. I used 3 inch wood screws to hold it all together. Give Belle a big hug for me. Good luck !!
one other thought. Once you build your platform, your dog will want to stand on your center console to be with you and look out the front window. Take a look at the following video on how I protect both the console and the dog. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dAa7LFjVnBs.html
I’ve had my TRD for 17 years and I’ve always wanted more than two d-rings on the bed floor. The track system is great, but not adequate for so many hauling jobs. Thank you for showing this!!! I just need to do it…
I totally agree. I saw the video on the Camry ring rebuild kit. Obviously, at nearly 200,000 miles, I'm sure my rings are leaking a bit. I now get the smoke cloud at start up. With that said, my Tacoma truck has been smoke clouding me at startup since the day I drove it off the lot. Thanks for the info on the coil packs.
I didn't even know that prescription windscreens were technologically possible. How can it possibly work when the distance to the person eye from the windscreen is so widely variable?? I would also think that the plastic sheets inside safety glass would interfere with making a prescription windscreen. Anyway, I would have absolutely no idea how to properly take care of the windscreen you described. Perhaps you can contact the manufacture of the windscreen for cleaning advice? Good luck.
@@zapa1pnt Thanks for the info, That was the way I was leaning. The physics of a prescription windshield makes no sense. Also, why make prescription glass 4 feet across when a few inches of glass sitting on a persons nose performs the same function?
I have a Hobart flux core, didn't want to spend the money for MIG. I did some measuring, think my deck where the rust is seems closest to 16GA. Really want to make it smooth and do butt joints...your vise and hammer technique, I think that will be what I try. Been trying little patches, not going well.
Use the lowest setting you have on the machine and make lots of small tack welds like I did. That way you are not chasing the hole around with your welder. Make sure the steel is clean as well. I personally hate welding the thin metals. Have fun and good luck!!
Hello, I'm sorry, but I don't have that information. The only way I could do that is to open up my Butler and look at my capacitor C2. I'm not real eager to do that.
The welds held up awesomely. Unfortunately, the motor didn't. I just recently replaced that mower because I had to start using starter fluid to get it going. But it still had a fully operational mower deck.
