Lots of random stuff, a bit about model railways. British outline, 00 gauge, garden railways. Some tips and ideas as well as comment on models available in the UK.
Awesome set up both inside and outside. New subscriber. Looks like you folks had a grand time. Gives me ideas on what to do as I venture deeper into G Scale.
Lidl well known for selling cheap appliances and stuff like that . I remember over ten years ago , I bought a wireless mice and keyboard from Lidl , and as you may guess , only the mouse worked
On a public forum like this i am reluctant to suggest this. Someone who has the skills could probably find a way.... but for the cost it is better to scrap it and buy a complete new one with 3yr guarantee. Cheers
I have just made a locomotive using meccano parts including meccano flanges wheels It doesn't go very well and is unstable. Are meccano brass wheels any good for working trains as opposed to static?
I struggled to remove the body on my "Tinsley Blue" variant of this Class 47 - so much so that the body split. After discussing this with a model shop when trying to source a replacement body shell, it transpires that these Class 47's are prone to "Mazak Rot" (Which I only thought affected the Hornby class 31's). Sure enough, when placing a steel ruler along the metal chassis - it's twisting badly. I'm sticking with Accurascale and Bachmann from now on!
I wanted to open one for battery conversion like lipo with phone remote. It's designed to go into space I think. Broke some tabs as well but now I know how to do it.
10 years? Aha mine goes up to 11. Or whatever it is - it started running in 2012. It's a bit different to your's as it's OO and nearer the ground and there's lots of weeds and so on but like on your's the track is free resting. There's several reasons I don't attach it, the main one being that as long as there's curves along it one can forget about expansion. I can therefore solder over the rail joiners which in turn eliminates voltage drop and the need for outdoor jumper wires. Another reason is the wildlife here regularly kicks the track. Also, soldered track hums like the real thing. One can hear the trains when they're far away and out of sight which is very useful if something goes wrong.
That sounds like a very sensible layout. As you say, with lose laid track, expansion is not a problem. I need to pin my flexitrack to maintain the curve.
You can preheat the thing you want to solder to 100-150*C, then 175W gun will be enough to solder it. Preheater can be: an electric preheater, a hot air soldering wand or hot air gun, or some DIY preheater (cast iron pan & sand… aluminium plate with PTC heater or power resistors attached). Or trim the legs of the tip will make it run hotter. But that might overheat gun if you’re not careful.
How is this holding up? Normally the plastic tubing becomes brittle and breaks on every other flosser I have used (waterpik) or it splits in the handle and starts leaking (waterpik)
@@bikerides For waterpik devices you can get replacement handles/tubing from waterpik themselves (£16) or cheaper on the online auction sites - quality is variable and my cheap chinese handle tubing started leaking after a few uses. But For this device I'm not sure. Have you had any waterpik devices to compare pressure? But this looks good for £25 with a 3 year guarantee. I recently bought a cheap chinese water flosser for £12 from amazoon while I wait for a replacement handle for my waterpik.
It seems to go against conventional wisdom to suggest that covering wood with roofing felt could cause it to rot faster. On our garden trains we puncture the felt to attach the track. Moisture gets in.
Happens with metal too. Remember the thick rubber underseal they used to put on cars. Once the water got in behind it your car would rust away before you could say Liz Truss🤣
I do remember underseal. Once there was the slightest hole it cut the water for in. I used waxoil a few times. That seemed to heal itself and soak into the rust.
Hi David, I have a mixture of continuity methods. I have soldered write across some joints. I went through 4 irons to find one that worked and even then melted sleepers. I have used rail clamps from a few sources. I have put screws through the fishplate into the rail. If the cleaned up joint doesn't work I can use one of the methods above. cheers, John
I was there with 3 of my mates , slept in the car at the local school . Hell did it rain . Think it was Elton John's first festival and he was offering drinks while on stage .
Have you considered using Ice and Water shield ? It looks like roll roofing, but is more rubber-like. It has an adhesive back that sticks oh so well to the substrate. If you put a nail through it, it heals itself around the nail. Just something to think about.
I’ve been dithering about buying a Chaloner - and am dithering no longer! Ordered. Beautiful machine and really well presented in your video. I had the same issue with my Binnie skips. Solved it by putting some lead sheet on the chassis and raising the couplings with glued on cubes of wood; a suitably industrial look has resulted!
Hi Nigel, I am glad it has proved useful. You will not be disappointed. The skips benefit from the extra weight. I think you have found a great solution. Cheers, John
Hi Kim. Thank you for that. I like tinkering but actually the hard work has been done by others. The software is free to download. Someone else gives instructions on how to put it together. But thank you! cheers, John
Bought one a Couple of days ago and was Soldering something when the Tip of the Soldering Iron suddenly produced a Shower of lethal looking Sparks that looked like Mains Voltage! After which it Stopped Working! and now Thanks to your Video I can why that was! 240 Volts in and 240 Volts out Way too dangerous imo and so its going back for a refund, as if I'd been touching the metal part, who knows what may have happened!
Hi Tim. Yes there is so much variety in layout wiring. I always forget what wire is for which function.. a little organisation and labelling helps. Cheers, John
Hi Paul. Please check the latest specifications on their Web site. It is a while since I bought mine and they improve the design. Try also Fossworks. Look in the garden rail magazine. Even join the GRS society because their magazine has lots of adverts. Cheers, John
Thank you John , for getting back to me , I am now trying to make a British steam loco from parts of a Bachmann big hauler , the motor is good but need to get some type of control for the motor and sound , the smoke I use a Ultrasonic humidifier mist maker, I have used them on 2 locos look and work well
Can you write the labels of two components that are connected to head sink...I canot believe... the producer of the board that look very similar erased the labels of thode two components, that make imposible to repair the treadmill. Thanks
If possible find a working one that has been scrapped for other faults such as worn conveyed belt. Mine is now boxed and so I am not able to see if there are any markings. Good luck.
If you know that you are controlling a high voltage brushed DC motor then you can source a control circuit from China for less than the cost of repair.
You are quite right Peter. It is called play scale which is an excuse. The packaging was wrong lying labeled as g scale for a while. Then, of course the gauge is non standard. I try and explain some of that in the video. Cheers, John
