I ended up making a few videos of my own and here’s what I found out on the solenoid you can use either black or brown as power and then black or brown as ground just one or the other black as power brown as ground is what I would go with and then on the other side through the litter, I found either the red or the orange can be used, and while there is some difference between the red or orange for power to the unit to whatever you’re gonna make For our intense purposes, it really didn’t matter. There was some thing about the first powerline with the fuse on it that becomes part of a sequence for safety features but if you don’t program your remote control prior to use then the end user there is no distinct in between the two so I’ve swapped it with red and orange and it’s turned out exactly the same so you have the solenoid and you have power to the orange line so basically the black and the red lines turned out to be power. The orange can be, but it’s redundant either way and then whatever color line you wanna use that goes to the power side of your unit and then the ground just goes to the common ground And, I am eternally grateful
RU-vid took out a post I made about wiring up the dump trailer without the diodes so it works. It may have been using a link to another site. Anyway I will mention it again without it. I am editing this comment as I found an error on my part due to my not fully realizing that the solenoid and valve coil need to be energized at the same time. I have posted a video explaining how the unit works plus a look inside one. I hope it helps those of you wanting to wire this up to anything for remote control. I am by no means wanting to derail the author or take away what he did. Using the diodes is not a problem as long as you wire them in and are aware of the current/voltages needed to ensure the valve solenoids are getting what they need.
Also on those diodes. There is a Anode side and a Cathode side. Electricity flows one way as you state however that band only shows you which side is the Cathode side. Current always flows from the Anode to the Cathode.
Ok Brown is not ground. Its an input to a bridge rectifier. Black is the other input. You can reverse them and it will still work. According to the diagrams and info you can connect 24 volts but you need to know what transformer is in the unit. Mine did not have one so I used 12 and it worked out ok. You have Orange and Red for common connections. The Orange wire is fused and connects to a relay. That is the relay that clicks when you click on start button. Both go to the same place when all is energized. The fused is like 10A. This allows you to connect it up to 120V. The relays depending on your model will be rated for 120 to 230VAC. You can open your unit and inspect them to be sure. These units are meant to connect to a industrial PLC type of controller for industrial motor control. Do not use it to control directly a fan etc. Use an industrial relay or rated motor controller. For your application use a rated relay for your dump trailer unless it has a low voltage trigger. It will protect your receiver from damage if something goes wrong.
Hello Steven and thanks for the comment. It sounds as though you are a much smarter man than I. i am not a professional but I can tell you mine works perfectly as stated. i wish you luck. Clay
@@claymeza Thanks Clay. If you ever need help with stuff in the future I can help. I do a lot of electronics and have programed robots using off the shelf components.
Hey Mr. Steven. I need some help with this remote system please 😂. I'm so stressed with it lol. I'm trying to run 3 (110vac) hoists on this remote control. (North, South, East, West, Up, and down) My remote system is YDGY F21-E1B. It says on the receiver 12v/24v. So I purchased a 10amp 12vdc power supply box for supply power. Do I need relays, contactors, or Solenoids to operate the 110vac winches or do I just follow the wiring diagram on the receiver and hook it up like it says? I'm confused as to how the supply power of 12vdc in the receiver would activate a 110vac winch.
at least yours is color coded LOL I bought a piece of equipment and it came with this remote. I have 16 wires all the same color :( no manual or diagrams
The wires you will use to power the pump has to also open the solenoid. Therefore both power wires (up/down or in/out) have connect both to the pump and the solenoid. You have to use a diode so power does not go back up to the unit and burn it up.
I got the same problem, I have number not colors, I got no idea what (com) and (main) is I wired power and grnd and it works in 12v but no idea how to connect it to my unit to make it work it’s a basic gravity down hydraulic unit :(
As posted I had opened one up and those wires are meant for AC 24 or higher depending on what transformer you have. The one I have had it removed so I used 12v. The polarity can be switched. On mine the input wires were connected to a bridge rectifier.
Nice I want to make a trailer dolly with two winch motors controlled with one remote and now I want to get one for my dump trailer for my winch and dump and also for my trailer jack
@@JefferyClay-tl3tn Make sure you use a good rated relay to power that wench. They use a lot of current. The max the receiver can do is 10A and thats pushing things.
