Could you possibly do a detailed video such as this one on shimming the outdrive gear or what would typically be called the axle gear in real life get in and drive car's rear-ends?
Im assuming you are talking about the pinion gear that mates with the crown gear on the diff in this video? If so you shouldnt need to shim that unless the manufacturer's did a poor job of engineering the case. A quick test would be to put a dab of white grease on the crown gear that covers the width of the gear surface. Install the diff like in the video then turn it one full revolution so you know the pinion passed over that section with the grease. Take the diff out and look at the grease, it will mark where the pinion is in relation to crown gear and you can shim from there if needed. I have never needed to shim a pinion gear in a Tekno diff though.
iam having a problem with my diff. with 1 shim, the mesh is too tight, so i feel the gears grinding all round. however when i shim it properly with 2 shims, now i dont feel the teeth, there is very little play, HOWEVER, in one spot the diff can barely turn. it basically feels like hitting a bump stop, but apart from that one spot it is smooth. what did i do wrong?
it might just be a small imperfection that will work its way out once you run it, or it could possibly be you didnt tighten the crown gear evenly, could even be the gasket needs to be replaced (could be crushed on that side of crown gear).
You might inspect the crown gear to make sure there isnt an imperfection on one of the teeth or debris. I clean my gears out every now and then with a hobby knife, the grease you use for lubrication can get burned or pick up dirt if you run on really sandy surfaces.
Thanks. Diffs Im running now for a track like this 7/5/5 f/c/r. Shocks with stock pistons 575/550cst with orange/yellow springs f/r. Swaybars 2.1/2.3 f/r. Add .5 degree rear toe in on the D block. No center or rear braces.
@@cmacdig9727 I do, setups are basically same except have to run higher center diff. It being further forward than EB makes it work more (plus more heat, especially in longer mains) so have to increase to compensate. 7-8k on a track like this.
Diffs Im running now for a track like this 7/5/5 f/c/r. Shocks with stock pistons 575/550cst with orange/yellow springs f/r. Swaybars 2.1/2.3 f/r. Add .5 degree rear toe in on the D block.
Yeah you could even go to green rear springs, if its super loose. I also recommend the optional tall wing mount....all the time really but for sure on loose track.
Ok maybe not for that small of a track. Its not an expensive part, Id still try it out and compare lap times. The stock wing location is pretty low and can make the rear kind of unpredictable at times.
Not stock settings. Diffs Im running now for a track like this 7/5/5 f/c/r. Shocks with stock pistons 575/550cst with orange/yellow springs f/r. Swaybars 2.1/2.3 f/r. Add .5 degree rear toe in on the D block.
This particular track is more elaborate with the equivalent of multiple mini 96 packs with multiple track expansion kits. Their current layout has ramps up to a 2nd level, black lights, and glow in the dark edges......pretty cool!
Thanks Glenn, since youre coming for a visit in September, I just posted a new video a few days ago about the Kyosho Mini-Z track they put in at the Hobby Shop location for Shaws.....you should check that out too!
Haha, this is my first venture into on-road and its actually quite fun. Maybe because of the super small scale but the intensity level is much higher racing these vs off-road.
@@glenncarlson3161 the modified version like this one are very hard to drive without crashing......but also helps with your off-road driving. Teaches you momentum, line picking, dealing with traffic, etc.
@@aaron.royston For real, I've never seen anybody drive as agressive as you did while keeping quick pace. You should post more running footage ;) Do you remember your setup ? Diffs/shocks oil, tires, electronic,... (suspension setup might be to hard to describe here ahah)
Very very nice driving mate! I buyed a tekno eb48 2.0 too, and I undecided on buy a 1900kv or 2200 kv motor... Which kv you had in this video? Please help me 🙏😅
I'm a Pro-line team driver. My go to when its dry and dusty is a Buckshot in S3, if it develops a bit of a groove Ill sometimes switch to a Fugitive or Slidelock in same compound. When its wet M3 Blockades work really well. In this video I was running S3 Buckshots.
Very nice driving man! You have that Ryan lutz drifting and whip style that is so fun to watch! Was wondering if you could offer any tips on keeping the rear hub bearings in good condition in that type of loamy / dusty track condition. I have the 48.4 but just one battery worth of driving in that and I have to change out my rear bearings. Any ideas? Thanks and please post more videos of the 2.0 !!
Thanks, all I can tell you is if you have access to an air compressor, use it often to blow as much dust out as possible. Otherwise you just need to plan on replacing bearings fairly often. Check out J&T bearings, some of the best $1 bearings out there......always rubber shield for these conditions
Yes Ive had every generation, Ive been a factory team driver for going on 5 years or so. The .4 was a pretty good leap from the .3, but the 2.0 is a complete redesign and its night & day different. The 2.0 is like cheating, the harder you drive it the better it feels, where prior models had a tendency to become unpredictable driving at the ragged edge.
I’m not a good driver but mine feels twitchy. I’ve the .3 with .4 steering, front and rear diff (12t), low frequencies springs, and some other little changes. I don’t have always fun to drive it but he is very fast. I compare with another car that was much easier but I was much faster with the Tekno. Is the new one easy ?
Thanks. Im going to try to be better about it, will at least try to get some action of my nitros to posted up. I do post some shorter clips on TikTok username aaron.rc.royston
No not box setup, main changes went up to red springs in rear, 8k center diff, added .5 degree toe in on D block pills, changed outer rear arm pills to C-up position (C-up rear facing, C-down front facing), 600/575 front/rear shock oil.
@@johnnyjoe1315 depends on the track conditions and temps, I have been playing around with setup since this video for tracks like this (low grip) and am now 575/550 f/r, red/orange f/r......and went to 7k/5k/5k in diffs. For higher grip tracks Ill go up in sway bars, go up in springs, go up in shock oils, and go up in center diff (as high as 10k) and Ill take out that .5 rear toe in I added.
