My 03 S10 would shake at speeds of 70mph, so took off the two-piece driveshaft and had the back joints re-done (the ones closest to the differential) at a shop and it took care of the problem. Now the truck runs as it should.
So if I’m getting some serious vibrations that manifest mainly at around 65mph but are still present whenever the truck is moving, just to a much lesser extent.. this may be the drive shaft? The vibrations are so bad at 65mph that when I hit 70mph and they smooth out like.. it’s night and day, but they’re still present.
same noise.... had my cardan joint rebuilt. which they can do. the problem is they cant balance it. so its a 50 50 chance. mine seemed great after. but my 2002 4.3 STOCK xtreme has broken 3 driver side engine mounts in a year . tranny mount 3 hanger bearings cardan joints.and now shes squeaking again
I'm pretty confident my problems is bad u joints. I've been searching on RU-vid and the web and my s10 is having the same squeaking and rattling this one is having. How long do you think I can drive on bad U joints before I have to replace them?
Ron B. I would not drive it at all. Hopefully, you have AAA to get you to a shop or home if you end up snapping the diff. It can whip around and rip open your tank. If you were to drive it, I would definitely take it easy on the pedal and keep it only on the streets. Good Luck!
wiretechs i had a carrier bearing go out a few months ago and i drove it home with it flopping around with only the square frame of the bearing keeping it from going flying.
hey buttmar1 I mean bottmar1 this video helped me diagnostic between wheel bearing, rear end, and the issue shaft deferential but hey thanks for your waste of space.
You are obviously not an audio visual expert. Videos like this are never the same as being there in person. As for my experience, I build whole cars from the ground up which includes building the driveshaft. Can you? As for diagnosing, this is done in the car driving it and you know what is wrong before you put it on the hoist. Don't get so defensive about a poor video with no narration in it, that is of little value even in person anyway.
Apparently, in a "shop" there is no background noise, no engine noise, no exhaust noise, and no one else working to disturb you. 😂😂😂 Unfortunately, you were not able to use this video. At least it helped out a few other people. I sold this truck 5 years ago. I know the owner and he's still driving her. Double cardigans go out. Scroll and read the notes. Happy Holidays. Good Luck to you as a "mechanic" searching thru RU-vid. 😉👍🏼🇺🇸
There was no noise in this video that could be heard over a speaker in any computer that would be of value in diagnosing drive shaft problems. There WAS other noise (exhaust, etc.)that made it hard to distinguish anything of value. I have been a mechanic for forty five years and could not hear anything but trash noise. You were there in person which would make it far more easy to know that it is drive shaft noise. I can imagine there was a lot of drumming inside while you were driving that would drive you crazy until you fixed it. Have a good day.
Okay Doc. Put on some headphones then and diagnose it. I would definitely recognize it if I heard that noise again. You heard squeaking from the seized u-joints and in at about 57 seconds into the video the disturbing driveshafts noise begins. I did not want to be down there in case the u-joint decided it was time to break! Good Luck. You are not a driveline mechanic obviously. It's okay.
Background noise? Damn drive shaft was about ready to fall off. U-Joints were seized. If your truck didn't sound like this. Obviously you have some other issue. Good luck.
Anybody looking to fix this here's what you need, cardan rebuild kit #PUJ 606 from NAPA and at least 2x new u-joints. Advance and autozone wont have the kit. When replacing the center ball there is a tool for taking it off but I used a dermal to cut a slot down the side to release the tesntion and it came off real easy installing the new ball only takes a regular claw hammer. The kit comes with 2 springs for different models, my research said to use the shorter spring and it worked fine. My truck is a 00 s10 extreme ext cab 277k miles. I also ordered a set of 2 deg shims to get the rear end at the right angle to avoid future damage.
Yeah. You're suppose to mark the flange or the piece where the drive shafts meets. Make sure you bolt them back into the same positions unless you banged up your drive shaft or if you had it re-balanced then it doesn't matter. Good luck!!!
Also, never hurts to throw some balanced stock tires back on or just a different tire set to eliminate that as the issue. Vibrations could be warped brake rotors, worn down motor mounts, unbalance wheels etc.
Pick up a magnetic angle finder at Sears, auto parts, Amazon, etc. look up vids on how to find your angles. From memory I believe you want to be within 1 degree. The angle of where the driveshaft bolts up to the diff and the actual angle of the driveshaft. Then, the driveshaft to the smaller driveshaft, you may need shims to lower the carrier. Finally, the angle from the smaller driveshaft to the tranny, you may need transmission mount spacers here too. Good luck!
Rebuilt the entire driveshaft using OEM joints. Heck, they lasted over 100k miles. I replaced the carrier/hanger bearing OEM. And finally, I added shims where the leaf spring pack meets the axle pads to correct the angle of the "pumpkin" or differential. Sold the truck since, but new owner still driving it with no issues. Good Luck!
i got a vibration... took it in and they rebuilt my back half and replaced the cardon joint with normal u joints... still have vibration. changed the hanger bearing . still have vibration... ive been taking it to the best drive line mechanic in town. im 900$ deep and not fuckn happy
If your trucks 5 speed and you think you've checked everything I bet its one of those stupid balancer weights wobbling, there's one at the pinion and one at the yoke if I remember right
Rear "CV joint is bad.Prob needs center kit and U-joints rear joints go first on most cars as they take brunt of tork.non greasable u-joints are stronger and last longer, on some 3R cv's there is a small inverted grease fitting that never gets serviced for the center pin most "new" DL's don't have this fitting, rebuild both cv's if you have the DL removed the fronts are going out next IMHO hope this helps .
devon fowler He is referring to the ball and socket joint that is in the middle of the H yoke with two ujoints. They are sometimes called CV joints. Most people don't know about these CV/ cardan joints. I just did mine and found out people at advance auto and autozone didn't know anything about them I found the rebuild kit at NAPA now I'm running smoothly.
You ball and cup centering unit on the differential end of the drive shaft.that is what's causing the noise and vibrations.if you look at it in the video you can see the shaft kicking out about an inch or two.I'd fix it asap unless you feel like dumping even more money into the differential and transmission(or transfer case if its four wheel drive)
Oh yeah thanks man. After I reviewed the video I took the truck apart. I barely made it home in that condition. Friggin truck felt like it was about to blow-up! Thanks!
It's easy bro. All you really need are a couple of jack stands under the frame and then keep the jack position under the axle while you unbolt the u-joints. One side at a time of course. Then use the jack to lift the axle so you can slip in the shim and then tighten her back down.
fixed most of my vibs, the vibs at 60kms were from a bad tire! I still have a little vid around 95kms - 115kms....I still have the stock drive shaft with the JTR shim kit installed......my drums are brand new so its not a warped drum. It's hardly noticeable but I can still feel it.
Thanks for the reply! Good Eye! Rims are TRUE, ans tires are balanced fresh Yokahomas. However, the 3" spacers where not hubcentric and part of the humming on the freeway, not the vibration and the loud "diesle engine" sound heard from the inside of the cab. Therefore, I sold the wheels and slapped on some Glossy black powder coated 16" ZQ8 rims. Completely went thru the front suspension and slapped on some Monroe Sensatrac shocks. Now my ride is smooth, quiet, responsive, and reliable.
You had a bent rim or bad tire in this video. Very easy to see from 0:18 to 0:28. you can see the entire wheel rotating out of round. Slightly worn dirve shaft joint may have compounded the problem but definitely had a bad wheel/tire combo.
It was definately the double cardigan joint on the drive shaft. I removed it and took the entire driveshaft to a local driveshaft specialist. He rebuilt it and balance it. I drive sometimes 300 miles a day. Now, I am at 123,xxx miles and still no vibrations. I can take it up to 95mph and its still a sweet ride and hardly noticable until I look at the gauges. Also keep in mind that I'm running monroe sensatrac shocks and I have replaced all bushings and ball joints with moog.
