Tip on starting the old Allis diesels, I have several WD45 Diesels that have the same basic engine. 1. Set to low throttle and turn engine over till white smoke comes out exhaust and then stop 2. Push heater button for 40 seconds 3. Give it 1/4 throttle and turn the key and it should fire right up. I've used mine regularly in the winter and they would still fire right up. NEVER use starting fluid on the early diesels, it is hard on the lanova injection chamber design and head gaskets are the weak link on the early design. A good valve adjustment might help clear up the smoke, one of mine smoked a little until I adjusted the valves.
Thank you for teaching the next generation these skills. He will have something to keep busy with other than video games on the phone. We need more kids like this. God bless.
Did you use a gasket or just gasket maker? I know on fords there are shim/gaskets that set the preload or whatever and you add or removed till 1 wheel rotates 1 way and other wheel rotates other way and there is no play
*it’s a straight cut bull pinion gear meshing with a straight cut bull gear. The thrust of the bull gear is taken up by the inner axle bearing. There’s around 1/8”-1/4” of play for that bull gear to mesh with the bull pinion. I made sure everything was meshing right and spinning freely. I absolutely didn’t want to pull this apart again to do it over😂
Sorry I mean I could move the axle and housing in and out of the rear housing between 1/8” and 1/4” and not change the mesh of the gears. I could put no gasket on or a 1/4” thick gasket and it wouldn’t change the mesh of the gears. The tooth depth isn’t adjustable on this end of things. It just is what it is
@Tractor-Roy Hello, we bought an American M parts tractor, and all the bits we needed are good. The BMD (British M Diesel) uses the same rear end as the American M. I spent a bit of time checking part numbers, etc.
Put fresh oil in it and a gallon or 2 of diesel fuel let it run for 5 min on idle or “low” and shut it off and drain it. That will flush and clean the system
My guess is that it’s been in there for a very very long time. As the additives and oil broke down from use and sitting it started congealing. Could be from water too, but any time I’ve seen water it makes it milky, not tar
I have an old 9n that I drained when I got it and it was the old sae 90 and it drained out a little better than that but I had to use a puddy knife and rinse with diesel to get sludge out, it was almost like clay
@dodgemechanic when I pulled the pto out, I used a paper towel to see how bad it would be to clean up. It was at least a 1/4” thick film. I’ll probably try and use diesel in a weed sprayer to get what I can, and then run diesel in it for a little after it’s back together. A putty knife honestly sounds terrible😂
I had an old Chevy PU. I installed a 0-100 ammeter in series with the 135a alternator output lead. I installed a shunt that would cause the ammeter to read 100 when the alternator is putting out 135 amps (that would be 100% of the alternator's maximum output). That would tell me that the alternator is outputing current to the battery and load (lights, ignition and other electrical accessories). I also installed a voltmeter to measure the battery voltage to monitor the battery's state of charge. If the ammeter read 0 while driving, I'd know that the alternator failed and I'd be running on battery power. Yes, I could have bought a 150-0-150 ammeter but I used what I had on hand.
Cute helper. Great opportunity to teach problem solving. Just be careful, or you'll find everything in your house taken apart to see how it works. Good thing it was a simple problem.
Two major issues that destroy these iron engines corrosion, and no coolant filter. cut to the chase, there are a number of quality brand names. Purchase a coolant filter mounting kit, they do very in how to fix to the unit. I no longer do fleet maintenance / or any mechanician. above all, Be sure to get the filter with the zinc plug / and super charged with antifreeze. The rest should be easy to figure out. It's the only way to prolong any iron engine. I used hundreds of them. fleet Maintenance. we put them on all the service vehicles that didn't come equipped, saves heads and the blocks, reduces the corrosion effect on liners. It's not rocket science. Like I said, the kits very in how to make application. The simpler the better. Donaldson is about as basic as it can get. spin. You want full flow of the coolant back to the filter. I would by pass the thermostat, besides, it saves the water pumps and helps save the water pump bellows seals. the other thing that really kills these engines with all that rust / junk in the coolant, when the thermos is closed, the junk flutters up and down in the rad tubes, which coats / over time plugs the core up. don't really have anything else to do, I'm down with cancer, enjoying these old tractor videos. Fixing these old timers is what I use to do, / earth moving equipment. The Lord Be with You
And it just makes the most sense for me. I custom hay 2/3 of what I do in a year. Those people don’t have equipment, and I sell hay to horse people that also don’t have equipment. I can charge a premium for small bales. And with a stack wagon, it’s not too terrible as long as it’s working right
Personally I like your technical videos where you are overhauling or repairing something on your tractors....most interesting content. With that said I love all your videos! Great job.
The two still in the shop need rebuilt, I’ve been tinkering on an M that I really should start videoing again before it gets too far. I’ll keep it in mind👍🏻
