A crazy school teacher once said "Take chances, make mistakes, get messy!" and that's what working on our First Gen Cummins and other various projects is all about. Join us as we tackle many challenges and put them to the test on our off road adventures.
Rough Cuts is a series my brother in-law and I started in 2020 where we took our old 1990's trucks off road on Vancouver Island to check out the many beautiful sites she has to offer.
Feel free to check out my wife's Etsy page for stickers, decals, and clothing! www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheValleyPrints?ref=shop_sugg
Good tutorial. These parts would last almost forever if people would grease the chassis points like you do. One thing that will get grease into the pressure areas of the front ball joints is to jack up wheel you are working on. So nice to watch a video without a bunch of loud music! Thank you.
I'm running into the same issues now that they have worked in a bit. Lots of wind noise. Probably going to figure out a better solution but for the time being, they are still working way better than the 30 year old cracked ones I had before.
I tilted the window about 45deg towards the door lock with the bottom of the rail in the window slot. I then pushed it all back towards the hinge side of the door then tilted the window upright to seat it. It did take quite some force to get it lodged back into position.
@@roughcutsgaragebeen at it for a couple of hours can’t seem to get it right where I can get that wing window in I get what your saying jsut wondering how ya accomplished it without breaking the window or scratching the hell out of the paint
Awesome video. Even though I don't have this engine anymore, I loved watching it. Everyone calls it the 3 Slow. Is it wrong that I loved that engine and the mechanical sound it always made?
Haha thanks! I agree with you. There is a distinct sound and smell they produce that brings you back to a simpler time. She's slow but a 4runner or Tacoma is happiest in 4 Low anyways.
Question: what brand and type of ratchet were you using in the beginning of the video to get the throttle off? I’m finding it difficult to get that top left corner bolt off 12mm. My ratchets are too big it seems.
The manifold itself doesn't require any specific mods for it to work. I am running it with stock tuning, turbo, injectors etc. It just allows for better exhaust flow to the turbine so it's up to you for where you want to go from there. 👍
Awesome to see yoyr channel growing man even though this video is older. I just pulled my steed speed that i installed 2 years ago in ordered yo flip it for compounds. Its still coated like it was from the factory.
Hey thanks! Yeah mine and my buddy's Steed Speed has a little bit of discolouration on some sections but not nearly as bad as some make it out to be. They are great!
Do you think it would be possible to make these back windows roll all the way down if converted to a remote cable-style regulator instead of the scissor-style?
You might be able to. The limitation we are running into are the seals being so tight after baking in the sun that the window won't go down the whole way anyways. Been trying to source out new seals.
I got that exact moon one and it went out after about 6 months I drove approximately 5,000 miles and it would clunk when I would steer ordered the OEM one on eBay for $200 and hasn’t given me any problems in 2 years
I have found that some Moog products will fail quickly and others won't. Hit and miss with this brand but I was looking for a budget option. I haven't had any issues with my rig. Glad you solved the problem though thanks for sharing.
Okay, so what you do is take the old lights and google, which led lights replace that particular vehicle, year, make, and model. You just don't pick "whatever" at the store and expect it to work. Number 1 reason they don't work. Number 2: AND MOST IMPORTANT, identify the positive and negative connections on the dashboard, why because some lights are positioned positive on the top and the others, you guest it, positioned negative on the top. So, of course, again, they won't work. It's called: "pay attention" since you think you know what you are doing, but don't know what you're doing because you didn't do your homework and just ass-ume. Excellent on taking the instrument panel apart.
Is it seized? If so I like to use penetrating oil or heat to get something like that loose. Cleaning up the threads with a die if you can get at them might be worth it too.
still hoping you do an exhaust brake "how to" for the first gen one day. see if you'll need to swap out your springs to 60lb springs or leave the stocks. fingers crossed
Great video, as always! For anyone doing this for the first time, please please please make sure your fill plug comes out before removing the drain plug. Very difficult to fill the diff from the drain plug 😅
I'm wondering how you found such a clean 12v, especially in BC, must have cost two kidneys lol Gonna be using this video to put a tach on my 6.9 IDI, thank sir!
Thanks! Been a lot of work bringing her back but mostly right place, right time, and good people. Make sure to check out my second video regarding the calibration. I miss read the instructions in the first vid. Cheers!
@@roughcutsgarageI got the tach put on thanks to your video. Now need to figure out why it jumps when idling if I put my headlights on. Ps my idle also read a bit high but after calibrating at 1100 like you, it read 100 too high at cruising RPM, might be worth checking what the tach reads vs laser rpm at about 2K.
@@GSKYYT I messed up in this video and made a follow up vid on how to properly calibrate it with a DTA. The tach needs to be in the 8 cyl mode because of how the DTA talks to it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mfsUPaz7lqQ.htmlsi=FPjRI2GcGGEFuRur
@@GSKYYT Ahh okay, yeah mine jumps around a bit when the grid heaters cycle. I also find different draws on the system will cause the tach to jump around randomly too. Good luck and happy to help!
I'd recommend getting a proper socket to torque that wheel bear nut. Also, manual locking hubs are a super cheap upgrade that will save a ton of wear and tear on your front diff and CVs.
I am a fan of the 1st (83 - 89) and 2nd generation 4Runners (89-95) for how they look and how simple they are. Some would argue their engines are not as good as the 3.4L you see later but I have had very little issues with the 3.0L 3VZ-E even though it lacks power. I find it difficult to fault a stock engine with 500,000 kms on it.
This vehicle is second hand and there weren't any dust covers when we made the video. If you have then you could try to use them with these bulbs. May require some modification depending on how they fit with the fan.
Had the exact same thing happen to me, had an alignment done and the car drives straight and perfect but the steering wheel is crooked. About to center the steering wheel and see how it goes, did centering the steering wheel affect the clock spring mechanism (where the switches behind the steering wheel is) at all?
Good thought but no it has not affected it at all. I'd have to look at the diagram to see if it would have an effect on it but with the small adjustment we made, it works fine.
Awesome work! Definitely going to re-route mine or do that on ol blue when i get to installing one. That fumoto valve is also going to come in handy for future oil changes.
Just came across your channel and I am about to binge all your videos 😂 I’m about to buy a 2nd gen 4Runner and start doing one up on my channel as my daily driver so this is all great info 👌 New Sub from Australia 🇦🇺 👍
